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Old 06-04-2012, 10:27 AM   #1
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1976 27' Overlander
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Equal-i-zer hitch question

Hi folks,
We are in the process of getting a '76 Overlander (27') and have pretty-much decided on an "Equal-i-zer" brand hitch with our Suburban. I have two questions.

The Overlander has a dry weight of 4575 and a tongue weight of 575 per the specs. This puts the loaded weight (1200 per specs) about 5800 and with the added weight in the back of the Sube at, say 200 lbs, right at 6,000 lbs. That suggests the Equalizer model that is 6000 lbs -- simple enough. But when I plug in the weights with a fudge factor to make it 6,200 lbs, the Equal-i-zer website says I should buy a 10,000 pound model, but I would think it would be better to have the bars for the 6000 pound model rather than for the 10,000 pound model, since the actual weight is going to be closer to the 6000 limit. Or, are the two couplers actually the same for both "models" with the difference being the bars (the difference in price is about $20)? Am I overthinking this?

That's question one. Question two -- my local SOB dealer who distributes these (NOT an AS dealer) wants full price ($700+) for the hitch but many of the RV internet sites sell this with shipping at $250 to $300 less. I'm not going to be using this dealer in the future (will be using Nick and Karen of AS of Spokane) so am not worried about "relationships" - but is there any reason (warranty?) to NOT use one of the larger internet dealers? Now I know someone will say buy in Spokane, but that's 3.5 hours and 200 miles -- one way!

Thanks in advance for the input!
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:38 AM   #2
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Suggest buying on line. Installation is easy and the mfg is easy to work with for installation questions.
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:02 AM   #3
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I think the real question is whether you plan to be towing at GVW or not. I know from a practicality issue I only approach GVW of my trailer once a year. That only occurs when I'm pulling with a full fresh water tank (60 gallons). Typically I wouldn't do that, and would fill the tank upon arrival. In my case this particular campground that we go to once a year has a water supply that is full of sediment. I've weighed our trailer and our typical load of camping gear, food and clothing, doesn't approach 400 lbs so my advice is you probably will be safe with the 6,000 lb hitch.


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Old 06-04-2012, 11:10 AM   #4
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I had a 1000#/10,000# eq on my 30' Classic and felt it was too stiff, so, IMO DEFINITELY don't get the 1000#ers.

Use the search function and you can read forever....almost.

I, personally would prefer a different brand, but if you're set on Eq, I'd advise the smallest they have, which I believe is the 600#/6000#.
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:19 AM   #5
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The trouble with Eqaul-I-Zer brand hitch is the bars are incredibly stiff, very little flex. This can put a lot of bending stress on your trailer A-frame, especially on approaches to driveways where the front of your tow vehicle raises up. For this reason I would choose the lightest Eqaul-I-Zer possible, the 6000 Lb. It is very easy to install, and if you do it yourself using instructions you will probably get it right. The dealership probably won't.

We have an Equal-I-Zer and it works well, but because of the stiffness of the bars, I would not buy this brand again. The sway control ability is also in question. I would rather have a simpler hitch with lots of flexibility such as Eaz-lift, and two add-on friction sway controls that can be adjusted according to conditions.

doug k
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:52 AM   #6
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There are lengthy debates about different hitches and to boil it down to one post is impossible.

First, after going through the instructions, searching through Forum threads on Equalizers (and others), and probably calling the manufacturer, you probably can install it yourself. You will need some really big sockets to torque some of the bolts; a major sized torque wrench helps too. There are lots of adjustments and it will need adjustment as the parts break in, so you might as well learn it up front. Our dealer did a poor job installing it, and some other dealers do a bad job because matching the hitch to the trailer and tow vehicle is different for every rig and that takes time.

Equalizer will tell you it doesn't matter what weight bars you get, it only uses what it needs. There was an interesting discussion of this some months ago and the conclusion I reached (with some others) is that stiffer bars are ok and the company is probably right. Others will differ. As Doug writes, a steep driveway entrance is stressful, but that does not happen to most people.

We have had heavier bars than necessary on ours for 4 1/2 years without any problems. The dealer probably pulled whatever they had on the shelf. It tows well, does not sway, backs up easily. Some one (maybe more) has had the bars shaved down to reduce the weight rating.

Unfortunately they do not make 800 lb. bars. 600 lb. bars are the same as 6,000 lb.—first number is tongue wt., 2nd is GVWR. If you find yourself in the soft ride club, 600 may be fine. Some people tow with bars rated lower than tongue weight. You can't trust specs on tongue wt.—the company gets it wrong and sometimes you'll find they give you 2 different numbers for the same model in the same year, add in spare tire and full propane tanks, and it may well exceed the ratings.

But read up on this. People (some have already posted here) can make logical arguments in every direction, often very convincing until you read the next few posts. You'll have to make your own decision on brand and weights. Expect to be confused for a while until the answer for you reveals itself.

Gene
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:17 PM   #7
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Reese Dual-Cam for the win.
If your Suburban is a half ton, go trunnions weight bar straight line dual cam #800 lb bars.
It will perform great, and you'll be happy.

http://www.reeseprod.com/content/pro...1665%20&part=0
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:29 PM   #8
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Hi OilnH2o,
Over the weekend we had our first tow using our 600/6000# Equalizer that we found used on craigslist for $380. (My hitch supply place locally couldn't come close to the internet prices. Just make sure the shank and ball are included or price discounted accordingly) We pulled our '89 25'Excella about 450 mi. Hitch weight is listed as 580#. It performed very well as does our 1000/10,000# version used on our 30' Classic w/ slide. We were on 2 lane roads and felt no pull from traffic meeting or passing. Set up is not difficult using the instructions provided. The main thing helping me during set up was to try and keep everything level -trailer, tow vehicle, and WD bars. Spacer washers on the hitch head and L bracket adjustments allow this. The sway bracket jackets for use on the L brackets quiet the noises down. I dont foresee other adjustments being necessary unless TV is changed. I am a very satisfied Equalizer owner.
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:41 PM   #9
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Sometimes the washers compress after use and one or more have to be added. This is normal. If you don't have enough extra ones, buy replacements that have a hardness rating of 8.

Because we don't have a level space, getting the trailer and truck lined up properly was difficult—scrap wood and a long level secured to an even longer straight edge helped. The most important thing is to get the trailer level, the truck fairly level and the bars somewhat so, in that order. The truck fit in the garage (floor there level) and I created space level and to the proper height outside with wood and then towed the trailer up to the garage (door too low to go further). This goofy solution worked, but took some time.

Since there are variables, one adjustment affects all others. The hitch head is very heavy and taking it off and putting it on to change adjustment gets old fast. But once you get it, it tows very well. Actually it towed quite well despite the bad adjustment at the dealer, but significantly better once I adjusted it.

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Old 06-04-2012, 01:30 PM   #10
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I've had my Equal-i-zer hitch for about 9 years now. Prior to that we towed over 18 years using Reese dual-cam sway control equipment. One of the biggest reason for going to the Equal-i-zer hitch was the heavy hitch weight of my Classic. It was 1,250 lbs dry and quite honestly the hitch platform provided by GM on my then new 3/4 van had a 1,000 lb limit.

To hitch properly I knew I needed to upgrade to a class V receiver and hitch. My dealer who handled both Reese and Equal-i-zer products recommended a Hidden Hitch class V and Equal-i-zer hitch product that had a rating of carry 1,400 lbs on hitch weight. I was reluctant based on my good experiences with the Reese. His comments to me that in his experience, customers who had Reese's never felt that the Equal-i-zer was a step backwards.

I took him at his word and had the Equal-i-zer installed. To this day I've become a believer, and that came with my first tow. When I picked up the trailer we pulled back home with a 35 mph cross wind. On that same tow vehicle I had towed my 27' 2001 Safari with my dual-cam Reese. Typically a gust of wind would hit the Safari from the side and I'd see the effect of the tail of the trailer moving out. Typically the dual-cam would exert its force and the trailer would come back to center.

In the case of the Equal-i-zer, the cross wind had no noticeable effect on the trailer. It stayed straight behind the van. I remember one year heading up to our annual Moraine View campout, we were traveling on a dead flat 2 lane US highway with again high cross winds coming out of the south. It was notable in that we had stopped for gas before traveling on this stretch of road and had to apply a lot of force on the van door to get it open due to the strong wind coming from the south. I figured I'd end up fighting the trailer on this last segment of the trip since I was going to be exposed to the full force of the wind on the side of the trailer with nothing on the highway to shelter the effects of the wind.

It ended up the trailer tracked straight behind the van, with no need for me to compensate. Another rally attendee was towing directly behind me and made the comment as we got to the campground that he was shocked that the trailer exhibited no sign of yaw as the winds hit me from the side.

Up to this point I've seen no negative effects structurally to the trailer. There are a couple of nuts by the hitch head that occasionally need to torque to maintain proper friction control. No adjustments have to be made because of weather. I've replaced the ball once at the dealership since it requires a socket that has tighter clearances that what most folks have in their home tool kit. An advantage I realized was hitching and unhitching when you have a large angle between the tow vehicle and the trailer. With the Reese, it was sometimes impossible to get the dual-cam arm through the stirrup bracket if the angle was too great. Not so with the Equal-i-zer, since there is no stirrup assembly to thread the stabilizer bar through.

So keep an open mind. I can quite honestly state from my own experiences that either hitch is a good quality product.

Jack
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:20 PM   #11
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To add to Jack's story, a couple of years ago we were going east on I-70 east of Denver. It had snowed overnight and there was about 2 or 3" of wet, slippery snow. Some 18 wheelers couldn't make the very slight grades out on the prairie. There was about a 40 mph crosswind coming from the north. Good tires on the truck, but OEM Marathons on the trailer that were wearing down.

There was no sway in 20 miles of snow covered highway, 20 more of slush, and then 2 days of heavy rains and more wind all the way to Missouri. The Equalizer did great.

Gene
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:21 PM   #12
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Back to your questions -

1. I don't know if the couplers are different between the two weights, but I would go with the 6000lb set up. Your trailer is fairly light and Airstreams like a soft ride. Call the Equalizer Mfg (Progress Mfg) and talk to the customer service person for a more informed input.

2. I would buy the hitch from an internet company to save substantial dollars. I've had my Equalizer for 5 years and installed it myself. In fact, I've helped others install theirs also - it's not hard. The instructions are very good.

Also visit the Equalizer website - they sell all the parts/accessories that you could ask for. A tip - buy the spare pin pack (extra L pin/clip and socket pin/clip) as backup - you will need them someday. There is also contact information for customer assistance.

There's one thing that makes the installation a little more difficult. You probably can't install the hitch ball yourself unless you have a 1 7/8" socket for the nut at the bottom of the hitch ball. The nut goes in a very recessed pocket and there is no way to get to it without the large socket. If you don't have this socket, maybe you know someone who does. Or, Equalizer sells this socket for $81 or so, or you can buy the same Sears Craftsman socket in Sears for in the $20s I believe. There are other places even cheaper.

Here's the link to Progress Mfg.

Progress MFG. Inc. - Home

Good luck. Russ
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:23 PM   #13
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Russ is right. Spare retainer clips (pins) are a good idea. They are available at hardware stores and probably big box stores. The more you have, the less likely you will lose the original ones (it always works that way doesn't it).
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:37 PM   #14
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If it wasn't so much work and trouble, I've often thought it would be cool to be able to drag your trailer over to the hitch store, and install/test every brand of weight distribution hitch made.

Then you wouldn't have to rely on someone's verbal discription of how well a certain brand of hitch performs, which is about like listening to someone's verbal discription of how pretty a picture is.
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
If it wasn't so much work and trouble, I've often thought it would be cool to be able to drag your trailer over to the hitch store, and install/test every brand of weight distribution hitch made.
Actually, I'd like Steve to do the tests so I don't have to.

But Steve has hit on it—there are no truly objective comparisons of hitches I am aware of, so we have to rely on anecdotal evidence, and judge who sounds most logical. And one specific brand may not work nearly as well on certain truck/trailer combinations.

Objective testing for most everything we try to understand is lacking. I suppose that keeps the Forum going. If QC at the factory was good, we wouldn't have that either.

If we really knew what was true, all we could talk about is how pretty our trailers are.

Gene
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Old 06-04-2012, 03:25 PM   #16
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I have an Equalizer and IMHO I would go with the lighter one and mail order it. FWIW Airstreams prefer a "soft" hitch to a hard hitch. I am actually going to buy an Air Safe hitch for my F350 Dually to soften the suspension down for my 1975. I do tow with my wife's F150 and we hitch that one up with the 8k hitch even though they call for the 12k. Zero towing problems, only issue is my bride bought the 4.6 V-8...

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Old 06-04-2012, 05:51 PM   #17
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You Guys are FANTASTIC!

Thanks -- no, really -- THANKS - to all of you who weighed in on this. Understanding the "soft ride" nature of the AS is new info. And, the discussion of "dual cam" and "equalizer" is a good one with great information, and more than just "I like Fords; you like Chevys." And, the stories are more than just good tales, they have little nuggets of wisdom from your experience that I do appreciate. So, sincerely: thank you.

I have looked at a lot of the threads on here about this subject - and if the Hensley (hoho) or ProPride wasn't about 30-40% of the value of the trailer, I think I'd go with them right off the bat! But, I am getting some valuable info locally from a forum member here in Missoula who has had experience with both Reese and Equal-i-zer brands and suggests the latter, based on that experience. The present owner has an equalizer and is willing to throw it in with the trailer (since he has a new one for his new AS) but he's modified the old one some and I don't think the coupler will really work out... long story: I think I'll just buy a new one. I had already determined that the "spare clips" was a good and cheap arrow to put in your quiver, and had thought about springing for the "thin-wall" socket, but didn't realize there might be other "thin-wall" sockets at a much cheaper price out there. On the other hand, that local forum expert says I'd have to also carry around a hefty air compressor or a wrench as long as a baseball bat!

I really DON'T think I'll be towing at gross weight a lot. And, yes, it is the 1500 Sube with the trailier package. What I've towed before is utility and boat trailers with the long distance stuff only utility trailers with the stinger and ball. Now that I have researched a lot of these threads I realize that for a couple of long trips pulling some of the biggest, 4500 lb U-hauls, with just the stinger/ball (including hefty cross-winds in So. Dakota) I probably was skating on thin ice and didn't realize it....

I also know that for every person using the P-P and HA systems there seem to be three others (based on that survey thread) using -- successfully -- something else. I liked that C5 comment (I think that was who it was) about "you get what you pay for, but get only what you need" or something like that. I guess the point of this paragraph's thought is that I will gain more experience with towing with this 27' Overlander, and that will lead to more knowledge and wisdom -- but attaining that experience with a new Equal-i-zer is not a bad decision -- just that there are others with different experiences with other systems that find those systems are fine systems too. As Jack said just on the Reese and Equalizer, these hitches are "good products."

So, I feel more comfortable with buying from one of the big internet RV parts places and that the 6000 pound system will work just fine. And, that I'll learn a lot installing it, plus have the owner willing to help with that (I haven't asked if he has the thin-wall socket) as well as others here in MSO. And, even if Steve did all the "real" on-the-road testing work with various combos, it doesn't mean that each of us drivers will employ the same skill set in putting it all to use! This has been great information!

Again- it sounds trite - but thank you to all of you for taking the time to help out a newbie! Now... I hope I'm not starting another round to say I HAVE decided to get the DirecLink controller!

Dave
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:42 PM   #18
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I will throw in my three cents here and echo what Jack said above: I have used both the Reese Dual Cam and the Equal-I-Zer. Of the two, I prefer the Eq. However, they are both good hitches.

I have a long, painful, detailed thread on here somewhere about setting up an Eq. If you haven't found it yet, it's actually a pretty thorough read. I'm an engineer so I'm painfully into details.... But really, it's not that hard to set up.

One point I will make: I don't know how heavy the headstock is on the 6000lb model. You can always machine the bars down to make them more flexible. One gent on here did just that with a grinder. It's not hard. You want the heaviest headstock you can get, and then make the bars match whatever you're towing.

In my case, I'm pulling a 34' Avion which grosses about 5 tons. Well, the 10,000lb Eq (or is it 12,000....whatever I got the heavier one) and the 14,000lb Eq use the same load bars. But the 14,000lb Eq has a much stouter headstock. I bought the 14,000lb model and have never looked back. I have towed thousands of miles with this combo and it works great.

Is the Eq as good as a projection hitch like the Propride or Henseley Arrow? No. It is not. Simple physics dictates that. But, it is a good hitch in its own right.

ALWAYS load your trailer to be nose heavy. Always! Put your blacksmith tools in the front. That makes your trailer stable. NEVER make it tail heavy. That makes it unstable. Keep it nose heavy, and nearly any weight distribution hitch will do a good job for you.

Best of luck!
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:54 PM   #19
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Bit of a side note...one way to help stabilize an Airstream and lower the CG is add water to the fresh water tank. Most of them are just ahead of the axle and mounted low. This rule applies to the 70's and up models.

Aaron
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:05 PM   #20
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PM me for phone number. I am in Missoula and will detail just how easy the install is as well as other sources of the hitch locally - that are way less expensive than what you were quoted.

I'm the fellow with 10 bars modded to make the ride more comfortable for our AS.
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