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Old 11-25-2015, 08:50 PM   #113
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Thank you all!
Decision has been made!
RAM 2015 Laramie cummins diesel

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Old 11-25-2015, 10:44 PM   #114
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1994 30' Excella
alexandria , Kentucky
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That is just a teaser picture - need more pics!
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Old 11-26-2015, 06:23 AM   #115
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David, congratulations on getting the Big C!
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Old 11-26-2015, 08:21 AM   #116
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As long as we are showing photos, this is my new 2015 Ram 2500, CTD, Crew Cab, Big Horn with 20" rim and ARE Series Z shell.

Kelvin
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Old 11-26-2015, 03:33 PM   #117
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2016 30' Flying Cloud
Tampa , Florida
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Duramax or Cummings Diesel?

Brand new to Airstreams, brand new to TVs.



After SWMBO decided on her trailer (27 FB FC) I started researching TVs here on the forum and elsewhere. After settling on a 3/4 ton 4x4 diesel, we went truck shopping.



We looked briefly at Fords, as well as Chevy/GMC. Neither one really suited us in the interior.



Both son and fellow-grampa have Ram trucks, so we test drove a 2500 with the Cummins diesel. We were very impressed.



We received our 2016 Ram 2500 Laramie Crew Cab, ordered 17 August, last week. We drove it to Colonial Airstream in Lakewood NJ from Tampa, picking up the AS on Monday morning this week. We had purchased the Pro Pride 3P hitch from Sean at PP, and had it sent to Colonial ahead of time.



After a stay at Cherry Hill RV park in DC, we went two days home, overnighting in Savannah.



We averaged about 22 mpg unladen going up from Tampa, and 14 mpg towing at 65-68 on the trip down. The Cummins diesel pulls like a train; it is true what they say, it is 'hard to tell' you are pulling a trailer.



We set up the integrated trailer brake system for Light Electric, with Gain set to 5.0. We use tow/haul, mode and always set the exhaust brake to the 'smart' setting.



I liked the fact the truck recognized the trailer was attached and set to tow mode automatically. I did have to select tow/haul mode at each engine.



The diesel exhaust brake is extremely effective. Getting off the throttle brings a welcome retardation from the exhaust; it works very well.



I am going to use the procedure in the Ram manual to calibrate the Gain setting. I can tell the trailer brakes engage when I squeeze the manual trailer brake switch on the truck console.



The truck, hitch and trailer worked very well together, with no noticeable sway. Bill at Colonial set me up at 5 1/2" jack barrel height over plate on the PP WD bars. I added a couple turns to the adjustment bars on day two to dial out some slight (very slight) perceived porpoising after talking with Sean via email.



Overall I am extremely pleased with the truck so far.

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Old 11-26-2015, 04:26 PM   #118
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I'm sure you'll be very happy with your combination. We towed with an '06 Dodge
w/ Cummins. Pulled like a well trained work horse and wanted more. We traded the Dodge in over the summer and got a 2015 Ford F350 with the 6.7 diesel. Of course the new trucks have come a long way since '06 with the creature comforts. I do like the Ford but other than being new and nice I really don't think it's any better at pulling our trailer than the Dodge was. They are both great for the job and although I do like the Ford I had no complaints with the Dodge. Never had the GM product to compare but they seem to be well liked and do the job well too.

Enjoy your new truck. See ya on the road sometime.
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Old 11-26-2015, 05:38 PM   #119
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NICE TRUCK!

One word of warning........

The new modern diesels are not like my 5.9L Isuzu turbo diesel with mechanical everything. Once mine starts up, the only way to stop it is to run it out of fuel (all old style diesels have fuel shutoff).

The new diesels are very complicated and rely on all sensors and management systems to be in tip top shape. Ignore that check engine light at your peril, as it will lead to a very expensive failure.

I have a motto with modern complex vehicles.....Fluids are cheap. Change that oil before the service management system tells you too (7500 kms, 5000 kms if towing. Your turbo needs good clean oil to work properly, making sure that any inline oil filters just before the turbo are also changed on a regular basis. Dump transmission fluid at least every 50,000 kms if not 25,000. Compress the brake callipers with the bleeder open to remove brake fluid in the calliper twice a year along with lubricating sliders, with a complete brake fluid flush every three years. I do a coolant replacement every 75,000 kms with a new thermostat. I also undercoat my vehicle with a wax based undercoating that protects brake lines, fuel lines and rustproofs the vehicle.

If you maintain your vehicle like this (or something like this) the engine will last longer, the transmission will last longer and your brake callipers will last longer. Your resale value will increase and the chances of a surprise on the road will be decreased.

Good luck on the new rig and remember, new fluids are cheap insurance.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 11-26-2015, 10:00 PM   #120
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2015 27' Flying Cloud
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@llando 88
I bought an FC 27 from Colonial, which I picked last May. Also with a Pro Pride. Colonial used the same setting on the tension bars for me that they used for you, even though I have a GMC 1500 with max trailer tow package. Like you, I dialed in another 1/8 inch to reduce porpoising. Having now completed a cross-country trip (DC to LA in a month), I'm satisfied with that setting. FWIW, a setting of 7 on the trailer brake gain seems to work well. The PP hitch works as advertised but it has its idiosyncrasies. One is that you have to have the hitch reasonably straight to drop the front trailer stand; otherwise one of the tension bars may be in the way. You can loosen the bar and sometimes move it out of the way. Before disconnecting the TV, be sure and loosen both bars until they swing, and (in my truck's case) have the hitch 11 inches off the ground. Likewise, when hooking up, be sure you have the hitch at the proper height (because you may have moved it to level the trailer). Thanks to the rear view camera, this is now a 1-person job 90% of the time. The other 10% happens when the ground is unlevel side-to-side and I'm trying to hitch to a levelled trailer. Then, I need my wife to put pressure on the appropriate spring bar to tilt the hitch to match the tilt of the TV. We've camped at lots of national and state park campgrounds; many of their sites are seriously unlevel, laterally or transversely. Finally, I urge you not to avoid back-in sites. Many of the "pull-throughs" at national and state parks are curved loops off the main road. That's a difficult situation for our PP hitch to handle. Backing a trailer is not a big deal once you've had some practice; you just need a spotter to see that you don't run into things.
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:57 AM   #121
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I would love a 2006 or prior Cummins...our friend has over 900,000 miles on his Dodge truck.
My 2006 Ford 5.4 is a fine ride, and tows well, but 10-12 mpg towing stinks. I do get 18 highway not pulling.
The experience of two Fords in a row with spark plugs that snap off on attempted removal has not sat well with me. The last repair for that issue was over $1400. The Expedition is comfortable and competent though, and retired teachers don't buy $50,000 trucks, at least not this one.
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Old 11-27-2015, 07:10 AM   #122
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Bought my 06 Cummins a couple years ago used for about half the price of new. They are hard to find. Towing the thirty foot Avion I get about 15 mpg give or take, the last trip to south Florida on the flat land I did 20 not towing. No problems, my truck is what they call a work truck. No power windows or door locks, no cruise control, no engine brake, the stock radio and no problems. I did have the ac compresser replaced under extended warranty I bought . The truck only had forty thousand miles on it at seven years old so I spent the money on the warranty figuring it wasn't old enough for all the bugs to be out. Love the truck only complaint, the 06 is still pretty noisy
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Old 11-27-2015, 07:17 AM   #123
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so what years prior to 2006 are the best for these? I am able to take my time looking for one, as my current set up is fine for us.
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Old 11-27-2015, 07:37 AM   #124
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Originally Posted by ALANSD View Post
so what years prior to 2006 are the best for these? I am able to take my time looking for one, as my current set up is fine for us.
The Turbo Diesel Register has buyer's guides that are very detailed full of information. If you are seriously looked for a used Dodge/Ram thoroughly familiarize yourself with this resource. It is worth the membership in this owners group for all the technical info available.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/
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Old 11-27-2015, 09:05 AM   #125
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Originally Posted by Llando88 View Post


We averaged about 22 mpg unladen going up from Tampa, and 14 mpg towing at 65-68 on the trip down. The Cummins diesel pulls like a train; it is true what they say, it is 'hard to tell' you are pulling a trailer.
Are these mileage quotes hand calculated? Odometer mileage divided by gallsons pumped.

I haven't had an opportunity to tow mine much. Only put on 1500miles since purchase in August.

Kelvin
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Old 11-27-2015, 10:36 AM   #126
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Our 2012 Ram 2500HD Cummins on board computer Lie-O-Meter mpg display gives some wonderful numbers. They just do not line up with the pencil and paper numbers over an extended number of refills.

Since I swapped the stock fuel tank for the under bed Titan 56 fuel gallon tank, the fuel gage is relatively useless. I reset the Trip B display at each fill up and use a conservative 11.5 mpg number for range which is a conservative 644 mile range. I can't last that long without emptying my tank, so my bladder seems to determine effective range. However, that extended range does allow me the choice of brand for fuel stops.

I look for non-bio-diesel fuel and will not use Flying J, Pilot or Love's. Their pumps show up to 20% bio-diesel blend and my 2012 vintage engine was only rated 5%. I look for Chevron and Shell, but have found them in Texas to occasionally only have bio-diesel.

Avoiding bio-diesel will prolong engine life despite the marketing hype.
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