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Old 08-05-2015, 12:12 AM   #113
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. What is so hard about buying a pickup? Just do it ,
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:08 AM   #114
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No joke. Folks have been diagnosed with less crazy behavior than I. I can hear my wife at the support group on Wednesday evening now. Cup of burnt coffee in one hand, tear filled tissue in the other. "Dan was so normal until he started reading about trucks on that Airstream forum".

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Old 08-05-2015, 08:10 AM   #115
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Where is that? I need to send my wife too...
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:21 AM   #116
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I knew I wasn't alone. Kelvin? There's a few more nearing our situation. Doubt we will be the first or last. Ha ha

All BS aside, anyone still reading this, I really appreciate your patience, time, thoughts, PM's, etc. I would like to say thank you for my wife, Carrie, as well.

Experienced input from Slowmover, DHart, BAB, Moflash, Al&Missy, Tommie/MMosoto, Seemore, DCBruce, Plan-B, Notdone, Switz, etc have given my wife and I so much to think about. You represent yourselves and this forum well.

We talk about trucks, suspension, transmissions, gas and diesel options, upfitter switch utility, various WD hitches, Transfer Flow 50 gallon tanks, TFL truck videos, and such. I'm sure my wife would like to thank you all herself.

As of late, when I bring up the above, she gets so excited she says things I've never heard. Tourette type ramblings. Can't quite make out the words due to her pressured speech and cadence. But I can tell she is excited as I am.

Thanks guys and gals!!


Dan
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:46 AM   #117
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> Does my intended usage warrant going with diesel?

No.

Do you want to buy one *anyways* ?

Clearly.
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:10 AM   #118
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Does my intended usage warrant going with diesel?

You're welcome, OP.

I'm gonna rain on the parade somewhat and disagree about proposed tires/wheels and lift kit. That the OP will do what he will is taken for granted. This post is coming out of my experience.

It's not something we see in the oilfield to use lift kits and toy truck tires. Trucks are worked tremendously hard. Terrible roads. No room for failure, not of any sort, for an owner/operator. Delaying delivery of a tool to a drilling rig is against their cost of $25,000/hr. One doesn't stop for anything. Loss of business can mean bankruptcy if one loses a customer. Plenty of sharks circling.

Better tires and shocks? Sure. The Bridgestone Duravis m700 is a proven tire. It's a VERY long lasting tire. We ran the near identical tread 726 on the Drive axles of the heavy oilfield Petes I drove. Never got stuck, which is easier than you'd think with up to 40,000/lbs on those. It takes a helluva bulldozer to clear the road after that. And the tires were in service at twice the mileage of some others.

No problems on-road either by reports from one ton commercial operators of my acquaintance. Nothing is quite as exciting in a big truck as having the Drive Axles move out on their own. I've run ice coated highways (empty trailer) just ahead of DPS shutdown of that Interstate.

Less ground pressure with soft sidewalls and higher COG is the wrong direction to travel with a tow vehicle. The trailer is the more important of the two, so deferring to its needs is par, IMO.

KONI FSD shocks were developed for ambulances and other first responder vehicles. If they fit they would be my choice.

Losing tire grip at the rear axle contact patch is the problem. Wet, dry and loose surfaces.

A locking rear differential is chosen by some, but I'd still rather have a Detroit True Trac if I wanted to upgrade from the Ram Anti Spin.

As well, the greater difficulty of an adequate drop hitch. Leverage becomes severe. Setting WD in a truck with a lift kit is something of a joke, IMO.

The m700s , KONI FSD shocks and greaseable polyurethane anti roll bar bushings would be as far as I'd take things. Stock size tires where tread width and rim width are an exact match.

Finally, the longest lasting vehicle is the one that remains stock or very close to it. Changes in one area have a way of introducing indirect effects downstream. Reducing FE also means increased wear. Again, over the longest period taken as proof.

Others do not have to agree with me. I'd also argue that there is no one ton any longer inside it's safe braking distance above 65-mph. I'm not starting an argument in this thread. Start a new thread if that's a concern.
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:44 AM   #119
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Thanks man. I appreciate it. With my plans, I'm not likely to lift truck and such. My goals are to buy truck with front heavy duty suspension, snow plow prep, etc and be able to fit a larger Cooper ST MAXX in there. That's my main interest. Will add leveling kit or minor high quality lift kit as last resort. Max tire size I'm considering is 35x12.5x18, may go with slightly less.

The tire, 295/70/18 for example, is E rated and supports 4100 lbs per tire based on Cooper Tires website. Will put link below and would appreciate any criticisms. I ruled out 90% of popular off road/mud tires for various reasons. While not as cautious as you, I have given this considerable thought.

Cooper Tire & Rubber Company - Discoverer S/T MAXXâ„¢

With regards to custom wheels, it's largely so I can support a wider tire with additional rim width. Depending on tire, I will be buying 18x9" or 18x10" wheels. This will reduce the bulging tire and assorted sway issues I'm told that are created by stuffing a big tire on a small (narrow) wheel.

And when you say oilfield, are you saying dirt roads?

I know little about Texas having driven through it only once staying with my uncle who lives in San Antonio. All I saw was flat sandy terrain. Reason I ask, here in NC we have a divide, coastal plain. I live on it, literally.

One side of county, and most points east to coast 2 hours away are sandy loam. West side of county, and most points towards Smoky mountains are red clay. I will tow an Airstream with the truck, yes. But I'm also out in woods, mud holes, and various other situations that require more agressive tread than any Hwy/Tow tire will work well in.

We haul our flat bed white water trailer up and down slippery River banks you can barely walk on. We run twisty and mud hole filled trails to get our kayak trailer in and out of put ins on lakes.

I need to run through bad terrain where I shoot 1000 yard rifles, 50 BMG mainly. Swampy area in bottom of the private land practice range half the year so I couldn't shoot with a normal tire and 2WD. Setting up targets and running back and forth is required.

So for me, there has to be some middle ground regarding truck tires. I'm aware that may result in a less than 100% ideal towing and highway tire. But I need the truck to perform in various places. Not to mention airing down with Staun deflators to drive on beach of Outer Banks surf fishing and camping. Many hats.


Dan
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:51 AM   #120
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Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
You're welcome, OP.

I'm gonna rain on the parade somewhat and disagree about proposed tires/wheels and lift kit. That the OP will do what he will is taken for granted. This post is coming out of my experience.

It's not something we see in the oilfield to use lift kits and toy truck tires. Trucks are worked tremendously hard. Terrible roads. No room for failure, not of any sort, for an owner/operator. Delaying delivery of a tool to a drilling rig is against their cost of $25,000/hr. One doesn't stop for anything. Loss of business can mean bankruptcy if one loses a customer. Plenty of sharks circling.

Better tires and shocks? Sure. The Bridgestone Duravis m700 is a proven tire. It's a VERY long lasting tire. We ran the near identical tread 726 on the Drive axles of the heavy oilfield Petes I drove. Never got stuck, which is easier than you'd think with up to 40,000/lbs on those. It takes a helluva bulldozer to clear the road after that. And the tires were in service at twice the mileage of some others.

No problems on-road either by reports from one ton commercial operators of my acquaintance. Nothing is quite as exciting in a big truck as having the Drive Axles move out on their own. I've run ice coated highways (empty trailer) just ahead of DPS shutdown of that Interstate.

Less ground pressure with soft sidewalls and higher COG is the wrong direction to travel with a tow vehicle. The trailer is the more important of the two, so deferring to its needs is par, IMO.

KONI FSD shocks were developed for ambulances and other first responder vehicles. If they fit they would be my choice.

Losing tire grip at the rear axle contact patch is the problem. Wet, dry and loose surfaces.

A locking rear differential is chosen by some, but I'd still rather have a Detroit True Trac if I wanted to upgrade from the Ram Anti Spin.

As well, the greater difficulty of an adequate drop hitch. Leverage becomes severe. Setting WD in a truck with a lift kit is something of a joke, IMO.

The m700s , KONI FSD shocks and greaseable polyurethane anti roll bar bushings would be as far as I'd take things. Stock size tires where tread width and rim width are an exact match.

Finally, the longest lasting vehicle is the one that remains stock or very close to it. Changes in one area have a way of introducing indirect effects downstream. Reducing FE also means increased wear. Again, over the longest period taken as proof.

Others do not have to agree with me. I'd also argue that there is no one ton any longer inside it's safe braking distance above 65-mph. I'm not starting an argument in this thread. Start a new thread if that's a concern.
I'd agree with you 100% and I am generally considered an "off-roader"

The problem is, most of the stuff out there is appearance, and the stuff for real punishment is very expensive. And most just want to slap $300 dollar spacers or a body lift on their truck and get that look. But it won't stand up to any real punishment for very long. And will negatively impact towing dynamics.
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:05 AM   #121
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Originally Posted by Danattherock View Post
Thanks man. I appreciate it. With my plans, I'm not likely to lift truck and such. My goals are to buy truck with front heavy duty suspension, snow plow prep, etc and be able to fit a larger Cooper ST MAXX in there. That's my main interest. Will add leveling kit or minor high quality lift kit as last resort. Max tire size I'm considering is 35x12.5x18, may go with slightly less.

The tire, 295/70/18 for example, is E rated and supports 4100 lbs per tire based on Cooper Tires website. Will put link below and would appreciate any criticisms. I ruled out 90% of popular off road/mud tires for various reasons. While not as cautious as you, I have given this considerable thought.


With regards to custom wheels, it's largely so I can support a wider tire with additional rim width. Depending on tire, I will be buying 18x9" or 18x10" wheels. This will reduce the bulging tire and assorted sway issues I'm told that are created by stuffing a big tire on a small (narrow) wheel.


First comment, If you don't have a supporting improvement in the rear, the level will negatively effect you when you tow. What happens when you put a heavy hitch on your TV now without WD, the rear drops right. Then you apply WD and it levels.

Now what do you suppose will happen with the front leveled to the rear's height when you drop that trailer onto it. The front is pointing into the sky, and the WD cannot properly level the truck.

Those wider tires aren't even really necessary, not with a thing you have described below. Stop reading bro information on the truck forums. You could get buy with an only slightly wider tire.

I moved up to a larger tire, but it's not a 12 inch wide tire, but it is 35 inches tall and it is E rated. Stock size on my truck was 275/60/20 and I moved to a 285/65/20.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Danattherock View Post
And when you say oilfield, are you saying dirt roads?

I know little about Texas having driven through it only once staying with my uncle who lives in San Antonio. All I saw was flat sandy terrain. Reason I ask, here in NC we have a divide, coastal plain. I live on it, literally.

One side of county, and most points east to coast 2 hours away are sandy loam. West side of county, and most points towards Smoky mountains are red clay. I will tow an Airstream with the truck, yes. But I'm also out in woods, mud holes, and various other situations that require more agressive tread than any Hwy/Tow tire will work well in.

We haul our flat bed white water trailer up and down slippery River banks you can barely walk on. We run twisty and mud hole filled trails to get our kayak trailer in and out of put ins on lakes.

I need to run through bad terrain where I shoot 1000 yard rifles, 50 BMG mainly. Swampy area in bottom of the private land practice range half the year so I couldn't shoot with a normal tire and 2WD. Setting up targets and running back and forth is required.

So for me, there has to be some middle ground regarding truck tires. I'm aware that may result in a less than 100% ideal towing and highway tire. But I need the truck to perform in various places. Not to mention airing down with Staun deflators to drive on beach of Outer Banks surf fishing and camping. Many hats.


Dan
Dude, don't discount dirt roads. Have you driven 20 miles of continuous potholed wash board dirt road. That stuff is harsh as hell on your bones and suspension.



If you want some ideas, I have setup my truck in a certain way that might meet your needs.

My previous adventure rig went thru two phases





Phase 1 (first picture) was more than enough to handle everything that Moab could throw at us. Right off the bat, the Ram 1500 4x4 we have has a higher ground clearance, resulting in better front and rear departure angles are better. Break over angle, not so much.

A long wheelbase actually negatively impacts you off road. Especially going around things. That turning radius, ouch.

Anyways, I know we will be all over Moab in Oct, and we've already been doing a lot of off-roading every chance we get here in Montana. Lots to explore.

So I have aimed for a sensible balance. Tires, only slightly more aggressive than stock. Shocks are all Blister adjustable, front and rear. Front adjustments set to 2.8 over stock. Rear I have also added rear coils, that are 50% stiffer over stock. This brings up the rear unloaded. When loaded, the vehicle returns to a level stock position, albeit 1 inch higher than the stock loaded in the front and 1.2 inch higher than the stock in the rear, loaded.

Unloaded the rear is 2 inches higher because it does not compress under its weight like it used to. The springs however are the same height as the OE. The front is leveled to the rear's original height. I still maintain factory rake like this.

I have some other supporting mods, beefed up tie rod ends, beefed up sway bar end links.

And if you really want to get your flex on, you're going to want to disconnect the sway bars because they don't serve you off-road.

I could ramble off about my Staun tire deflators and the need to air down/air up. But probably info overload at that point. But I do air down and up between towing, not towing and off-roading.



Yes, I am eating my cake and having it too. This is more than enough to tackle anything you have described. You don't need all that other stuff unless you plan on bouncing off rocks, and even then you have half the picture with your assessment.

Anyways, if you are considering a Ram 2500 and are fine with the Hemi, look at the Power Wagon. I know I've been looking at it for awhile to get my fix and tow.

Although the drop hitch would be a B...
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:30 AM   #122
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no joke. Folks have been diagnosed with less crazy behavior than i. I can hear my wife at the support group on wednesday evening now. Cup of burnt coffee in one hand, tear filled tissue in the other. "dan was so normal until he started reading about trucks on that airstream forum".

:d

lol !
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:30 AM   #123
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Boldadventure,


Thanks man. Appreciate you chiming in. Great pics by the way!!

I love the Staun deflators. Learned about them driving and fishing on beaches of Nantucket. Great product. With next truck, may spring for some onboard air, Viar, or similar. Comes in handy as you know. For me, main use is driving on beaches of Outer Banks, or airing down trying to get out of a fishing hole.

I have not got far along with any thoughts regarding suspension mods, but will get there I'm sure. I'm more interested in performance than anything. If a mild suspension lift is required, that's fine. If stock shocks and springs work, fine. Just don't want to go down the rabbit hole of steering stabilizers and fixing this because of that, and the cause and effect stuff.

When I had my 81' CJ lifted recently, went with Black Diamond suspension 3.5" lift and 33 BFG tires. I've had the Jeep since I was 15, im 42 now, and never was into the blocks, shackles, stare at my armour all mud tires at gas station thing. It's the rage here and lots of trucks and jeeps jacked up to the sky. Not my cup of tea, then, or now.

As you said, that junks useless offroad. Made for parking lot duty and kids trying for second base. My CJ has just over 100k original miles, runs like a top, and looks brand new. Put new seats and carpet in it myself after POR-15 painting tub. Bikini top and no doors. She's happy.

I set my Jeep up for Uwharrie NP trails about an hour away. But fishing is where most my off roading comes in. Same with new truck, just need a high quality, but fairly conservative set up for more off road capability, yet something that won't defeat the reason im buying a truck. Towing Airstream.



Dan
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:40 AM   #124
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I updated my original post, you might not of seen it while constructing your response.

I'm from VA Beach originally, spent plenty of time down in the Outter Banks, sand driving does warrant some wider tires. The problem I had with wider tires is they negatively impacted my vehicle on the highway, especially in the rain. I always leaned towards expo rig vs rock crawler. Bouncing off rocks isn't my thing. But going long distance over highway and then long distance self sustained over land was fun to me.

Either way, your truck as 4x4 is going to have better clearance. So while a level isn't off base for the approach angle, you need to consider how to counter the effects of the load on the rear when towing or hauling.
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:44 AM   #125
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I'm stuck on the fence between ordering a F-350 XLT with 6.7 PS and buying a Dodge Mega Cab 2500 with 6.4 Hemi.

I know it makes no sense. Gas in one, diesel in another, $45k truck, little in common, 3/4 ton and one ton. But at this point I wouldn't buy gasser in Ford or diesel in Dodge.
Dan, maybe I missed an earlier post but why have you taken the Cummins off your short list?

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Old 08-05-2015, 10:50 AM   #126
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Seems our goals are very similar regarding off roading. Will shoot you a PM when the time comes. Got a great local off road shop I trust. But I'm not up on shocks and springs like you. Will pick your brain later.

Regarding the Toyo A/T's, you happy with them? That and the Cooper ST MAXX were my final two selections.


Dan
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