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Old 04-08-2019, 04:41 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam View Post
But it won't have a thousand pounds on the hitch with weight distribution, right? Or am I wrong?
Weight distribution does not take weight off the hitch, it take weight off of the rear axles and redistributes it to the front axles of the tow vehicle and the trailer. And don't forget about the weight of the WD hitch itself, they can be 150+lbs.

I believe that with WD, the hitch capacity on the Durango increases to somewhere around 750lbs. It is not up to the task. The OP doesn't say where in Alaska he is coming from, but there are some pretty rough stretches of highway up there. I would want a TV with a pretty stout hitch setup and suspension so as not to risk breaking things along the way.
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Old 04-08-2019, 05:30 PM   #16
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And here we go... another thread to vent out...

Durango will have better braking, handling, including emergency maneuvers than any pick up on the market or Suburban.

I do not know about 28' Airstream, but my Jayco trailer TW is 680 lbs dry. After relocating the battery from the tongue to the back of the trailer (lithium batteries, inverter, etc. - all is in the trailer under bunk beds) AND putting ProPride hitch my TW is ca. 690 lbs. ProPride itself weights 150 lbs, but adds length.

In short, maybe some mods are needed, but I am sure Durango would be much safer choice to tow this trailer.

Good luck! The discussion here can be heated

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Not to rain on anyone's parade but "...pulls like a dream...", is pretty subjective. Pulls like a dream compared to what?, pulls like a dream under what circumstances, normal flat freeway driving, climbing or descending steep hills, emergency braking and emergency lane changes? 14 mpg is no measure for the capabilities of a tow vehicle. It is not what it does in the best of circumstances it is what it is capable of when things don't go as planned. Engineered weight ratings of the various components of your vehicle are there for a reason, not the least of which is the safety of the vehicles occupants and all other drivers on the road.
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Old 04-08-2019, 05:34 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by thewarden View Post
Weight distribution does not take weight off the hitch, it take weight off of the rear axles and redistributes it to the front axles of the tow vehicle and the trailer. And don't forget about the weight of the WD hitch itself, they can be 150+lbs.

I believe that with WD, the hitch capacity on the Durango increases to somewhere around 750lbs. It is not up to the task. The OP doesn't say where in Alaska he is coming from, but there are some pretty rough stretches of highway up there. I would want a TV with a pretty stout hitch setup and suspension so as not to risk breaking things along the way.
Then why does the rear end of the tow vehicle rise when you hitch the WD? If weight goes to the front axle and the trailer, how can it also stay on the hitch?

I'm trying to understand this.
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Old 04-08-2019, 07:24 PM   #18
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In short, maybe some mods are needed, but I am sure Durango would be much safer choice to tow this trailer.

Good luck! The discussion here can be heated
No heat here. Hook up to the 2500 and go. No modifications, welding, anguishing over scale tickets, weight and balance calculations like an airline pilot, or white knuckles. Been there done that, with my Grand Cherokee and just a Bambi 19’. Now I have a 27’ and just lock in that Hensley to my diesel and go.

You can do it the hard way, or the fun way.
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Old 04-08-2019, 07:26 PM   #19
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Then why does the rear end of the tow vehicle rise when you hitch the WD? If weight goes to the front axle and the trailer, how can it also stay on the hitch?

I'm trying to understand this.
Because it imparts a twist to the “frame”. It’s called a moment in engineering terms. It simulates putting the tongue load somewhere in the passenger seat by twisting the frame.
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Old 04-08-2019, 07:52 PM   #20
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Regardless, whether you are talking about pick up, SUV or sedan, none of them would be a perfect tow vehicle. All of them are just "bundle of design compromises". However, less mods are needed to make SUV a perfect tow vehicle that to make pick up a perfect tow vehicle.


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No heat here. Hook up to the 2500 and go. No modifications, welding, anguishing over scale tickets, weight and balance calculations like an airline pilot, or white knuckles. Been there done that, with my Grand Cherokee and just a Bambi 19’. Now I have a 27’ and just lock in that Hensley to my diesel and go.

You can do it the hard way, or the fun way.
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:28 PM   #21
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We have a 2013 V8 Dodge Durango (HEMI) and I would like to know if anyone has tow experience with a 28' Airstream (we have International SS). We typically pull with a 2500 Chevrolet Suburban but we are moving from Alaska to Colorado and would like to take the Durango (and sell Suburban).

The Durango (with HEMI) is said to pull 7400 lbs. The listed GVWR for the unit is 7600 lbs.

I will be moving the family and want to make sure it is safe - and we can make our destination! It seems a little crazy to me (I like the idea of a heavier tow vehicle which is why I went with the 3/4 ton Suburban) but if there has been good experience, it would be much more convenient!

Thank you in advance for any and all thoughts!

Chris.
My advice:
Don't take any of the hundred different opinions of any of us. Do the math and figure it out yourself, basing your choice on the manufacturer's specs for your vehicle.

Look at the placards on the drivers door, specs in the owners manual, or wherever needed, to find load capacities of your specific vehicle.

Add up the weight of all of the passengers and other things you will need to have inside the tow vehicle while moving (make a list). Then add the loaded tongue weight of the trailer. Then add the weight of the complete WD hitch. See if all of that exceeds the cargo/payload capacity. If tow vehicle is within that spec, next figure out gross weight of both loaded vehicles. If the weight of the two loaded vehicles does not exceed the GCWR of the tow vehicle, then you are good to go. (assuming hitch, tires, brake controller, etc are adequate)

My opinion:
Stick with the Burb for your move.
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Old 04-09-2019, 11:39 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam View Post
Then why does the rear end of the tow vehicle rise when you hitch the WD? If weight goes to the front axle and the trailer, how can it also stay on the hitch?

I'm trying to understand this.
Have a look at this. Entertaining and informative.
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Old 04-09-2019, 11:59 AM   #23
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I would opt for the larger TV for a lot of reasons, including payload and longer wheelbase...the video above is a good overview, but not sure you would be hitting any road "spoon" dips or "washaways" with any real speed to worry about the rear end adding the additional load in a dangerous fashion, as discussed in the video, however. Check your payload (as shown on the door jam sticker, drivers side) on the TV and see if your TW and other things your carrying, including all passengers, fall into that weight. Use a good WDH and be safe.

Here is another great youtube video which discuss the value of the WDH and anti-sway bars.

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Old 04-15-2019, 06:40 AM   #24
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More information is needed to come up with a more complete answer to your question.
Can you post information on both vehicles you are considering such as:
- Year
- engine size
- transmission
- axle ratio
- factory tow package
- estimated amount of weight carried in the tow vehicle (passengers, dogs, gear, etc...)
Either vehicle can be set up to be pretty solid but it may take a bit of effort to gather the appropriate information to go about what you want to accomplish.
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