Do I need a WD hitch?

[Road Geezer]

I have been towing our 27FC for 4 years with a 2001 Suburban. We have a WD hitch that worked fine. Just bought a 2015 Chevy 2500 diesel, standard bed. Its a dream TV. I notice that when I connect the spring bars, that the TV rear end doesn't seem to drop more than an inch or two under full load. The Chevy dealer set the hitch ball to 21.5" inches off level ground. When the trailer's level, the chains are cinched up very little, barely tight at all. We've taken a couple long trips and the ride is smooth, much smoother than the in the Sub with chains cinched up to level the read end. I just took a short trip without the spring bars and could not tell the difference. The spring bars are rated a 1k#. My AS's rated tongue weight is 700#.

I read the truck's owners manual and it says that using a WD hitch is optional for a trailer of my weight, roughly 7k#.

So here's my question. With my TV, is there any reason I have to use the spring bars? I'm happy either way; but not using them is just one less thing to do. I'll continue using the sway bar.

Id appreciate your comments / advice.

[moosetags]

I would continue to use the weight distribution bars on your hitch. Without transferring some of the tongue weight to the front wheels of the tow vehicle, it may get a little light in the front which could diminish your steering control.

Also keep in mind that the published tongue weights on the Airstream website are most often not very close to the actual tongue weight. The actual tongue weight of your 27FB is probably closer to 1000# than it is to 700# and your towing weight is probably around 8000#.

Brian

[Al and Missy]

In my opinion, the bigger issue is what does the front end do. If you are getting much lift of the front end you are reducing the weight on the front tires and as Brian said, that can reduce steering effectiveness. Weigh the truck without the trailer, each axle, then do the same how you plan to tow. If the front axle weight is much less than when unhitched you probably should cinch up the bars.

What you want is:
Trailer level front to back
TV level front to back, and
Approximately the same weight on the front axle as when unhitched

To get this you may have to raise or lower the ball.

Al

[nrgtrakr]

I have an older F250 Super Duty 4x4 Short Bed that I originally bought for a future 5th wheel that never happened, and it ended up with a camper shell. Recently we bought a 75 Overlander with a quoted tongue weight of 500# and GVW 4,600# that came with a wd hitch. I've never used a wd hitch and the PO didn't know how to use it. After hooking up to the trailer, pulling out of the driveway where it was parked and on level pavement, I eyeballed things. The truck dropped slightly and fortunately the hitch was the right drop as the trailer was level. So we headed for home - 200+ miles of winding Colorado mountain roads.

I've towed heavier less level loads and the truck didn't know anything was behind it, the 27' Airstream was similar. When we got to South Park the winds were strong and gusty - probably 25 mph steady with 40+ mph gusts (based on my paratrooper calibrated feel for wind). Slightly apprehensive as I've seen lots of rigs of various sizes and configurations, to include semi's, in the ditch on their side, but the truck remained unaware it had something behind it.

I owe it to the trailer AND truck being level - that is no sagging anywhere especially the truck. When weight in the back makes the front look up, the steering is sloppy. Also both truck and trailer are relatively slippery in the air, so less effected by gusty cross winds.

Will I use the wd hitch it came with now that I understand how to use it, serviced it, and replaced some faulty parts? Of course I will as long as everyone is level and happy, even if the hitch doesn't know it's in use (chains not tight).

For whatever it's worth ...

[markdoane]

I would always use WD to maintain steering control.
But if I had a big heavy diesel engine sitting over the front axle I might take it to a CAT scale and check if its really needed.

[cwf]

2012, 2500 Crew Cab Silverado, 4x4, Duramax, Alison Tranny...

Totally loaded (consistently) using our PP, I have the AS running 'level'.. key on a 3 axle... to 1/2" Nose/Bow high...

If you load your TV with different loads, the 'level' of the AS will vary... depending upon loads in the TV...

We then took the AS to 'The SCALES'... and our numbers were well in the specs.

With our "Tire Pressure/Temperature" sensors, we fine tuned the 'WD's' so that the numbers are 'within' 10% of each other..

Hope this helps...!

[overlander63]

If you are concerned with ride as the reason behind not wanting to use the WD bars, a set of 600#-800# bars would probably be a better fit.

[Ultradog]

You Must use the WD hitch.
If it's an Airstream you are pulling - even a Bambi that has been gutted completely and you are pulling it with an Army surplus deuce and a half, you must use the wd.
Wink

[HowieE]

Yes you do want a WD hitch. Weight is not the only factor to consider when towing. The side profile of an RV is much greater than a utility trailer of the same weight. That profile and the effect a passing truck has on it is the reason you need the hitch.

If the chains are not loaded it sounds like whoever set up the hitch had NO IDEA of what they were doing, very common for a dealer.

You want 600 lbs bars with that weight trailer and need to have someone who knows how to set up the hitch do it. Setting up a WD hitch can take several hours to do it right and thus the reason a dealer is not who you want to do it.

The prime considerations that have to be met are.

Return weight to the front axle. Have the Airstream ride parallel to the ground when finished.

Sounds easy but since it is a give and take relationship within the adjustments you often have to make an adjustment that changes whatever you had done to that point, thus the time.

If you are using a Reese system once finished mark the bars left and right. I say this because the bars are not always the same length and if swapped side to side can actually increase sway because the bar may be riding off center of the cam.

[NavyCorpsman]

What did Wally use?

[Ron Gratz]

Originally Posted by Road Geezer

So here's my question. With my TV, is there any reason I have to use the spring bars? ---

According to page 9-91 of the online 2015 Silverado Owners Manual, using a WDH with a 2500/3500 truck is optional.

However, if you do use a WDH, page 9-91 specifies:

When using a weight-distributing hitch, measure distance (1) before coupling the trailer to the hitch ball.
Measure the height again after the trailer is coupled and adjust the spring bars so the distance (1) is as close as possible to halfway between the two measurements.

{"distance (1)" is the front wheel well height}

This implies that, if a WDH is used for a 2015 Silverado 2500/3500 truck, the WDH should be adjusted to restore approximately 50% of the load which was removed from the front axle.

Ron

[submariner]

ok.. not to hijack this threat , but i been asking myself the same question.. which should i even use a WD Hitch?
My main trailer is a 34 tripple axle. My tow truck is a 96 F350 4-door dually.. now here is the difference to everybody else: my rear axle has a hendrickson air ride suspension from a Peterbilt semi truck with no more leaf springs. i run 100% air bags on the rear. in addition, my rear axle uses independent automatic ride height valves.. so no matter how much i load , it automatically adjust the height.. the front axle has air over springs and auto ride height adjust as well...

So having said this, i also got to add, that due to the nature of my suspension, the truck rides best while loaded...
The only change in regards to pulling would be the addition of an air-safe hitch..
but now again, can someone explain why exactly i would need a WD Hitch ?

thanks

[BigAl]

I'm just guessing, but your suspension keeps the tow vehicle level but does not transfer any of the hitch weight onto the front end of your truck. In some cases the tongue weight could make the front end light and not give enough traction on the front end for steering etc.
Looking at your avatar seems like you have a long wheelbase truck and the 34 is an older trailer so not all that heavy. probably isn't an issue for you.
I have a long wheelbase F150 and can safely tow without the equalizer bars but use them anyway to level the whole setup.

[BigAl]

my post was for Stefan

[JimGolden]

Submariner,

You do not need weight distribution with a rig as heavy as yours'.

Often, folks confuse weight distribution with anti-sway. And on some hitches, they are one and the same (like the Equal-I-Zer that I use, or the Reese Dual Cam that is also highly recommended).

Inland Andy has gone over this in the past, but basically you are talking two different issues. If you have a heavy tow vehicle, like you do, you don't need the weight distribution. But, the anti-sway is always beneficial. You have to bend the bars a certain amount before they are actually of any benefit for sway. So, if you have a heavy tow vehicle, you want to use light bars, so that you bend them enough to be effective in sway control. You don't need them for weight distribution. Conversely, if you have a light tow vehicle, you would want to use heavier bars so that you transfer more weight and raise the back of the tow vehicle back up to level.

In your case, use 600lb bars if you have an Equal-I-Zer or Reese Dual Cam. I should be similar with any other hitch out there, but these are the two that I have personal experience with.

Also, make sure the trailer is loaded properly so that the CG is 10-15% minimum ahead of the the CL of the axles. Do that, and it will tow on the ball pretty well.

See ya on the road,

[submariner]

Thanks Big Al

maybe i do hit the Cat Scales one day.. just to see hw the distribution front to back is.
when i went last time across the scales at a scrap yard, i came in empty at 8300 with just my truck and both fuel tanks at 1/4 so i know , loaded i will be heavier than my trailer :-)

[submariner]

Thanks Jim.. I agree on the sway bar.. i have been using a weight distribution hitch coupler , but only with the additional sway bar and no distribution bars. if i ever decide to go with the air-safe, i know they make the ball adapter with the sway bar only..

[remphoto]

Originally Posted by Ultradog

You Must use the WD hitch.
If it's an Airstream you are pulling - even a Bambi that has been gutted completely and you are pulling it with an Army surplus deuce and a half, you must use the wd.
Wink

Now wait a minute, I towed our Bambi 16' to Florida and back behind a Honda Pilot without, wait for it… a WD hitch. And I lived to tell about it…
Wink

[cwf]

Originally Posted by remphoto

Now wait a minute, I towed our Bambi 16' to Florida and back behind a Honda Pilot without, wait for it… a WD hitch. And I lived to tell about it…
Wink

I also towed a lot before experiencing the handling of a ProPride/HaHa. Still do some loads. But the doggone thing works.

I had been quite fortunate in my many many miles to have survived in spite of my lack of skill...and pure abandonment of reason/machismo..

But that's only me.

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by submariner

can someone explain why exactly i would need a WD Hitch ?

thanks

I doubt anyone will be able to make a case for a WD hitch with your rig. The overall weight of the TV, the dual rear wheel and it's wheel base cover the normal needs of a WD hitch.

The only thing that might come into question would be sway control and even that is doubtful.