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Old 04-29-2017, 12:37 PM   #1
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2007 25' Safari
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Do I need a bigger WD hitch?

We pick up our beautiful 2007 Safari tomorrow. She's 25' long and dry weight of 5065. Our 2009 Tahoe with towing package is rated for 8500 pounds. Now the tongue weight of this Safari is 840 pounds and we just purchased a Curt 1000/10,000 WD hitch with stabilizers. Will this cut it or do I need to go bigger?

I feel good about all specifications with our Tahoe other than this tongue weight because I was expecting more of a 550-650 tongue weight.


We've basically only ever towed a tiny popup with a minivan. For the last two years, we've glamped in tents and now, the hubby decided to surprise me with this gorgeous Airstream.
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Old 04-29-2017, 02:45 PM   #2
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In my limited opinion, you should be just fine. Try the combination and see how it feels. Be sure and do a complete inspection and operate all systems prior to excepting the trailer.
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Old 04-29-2017, 03:11 PM   #3
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I agree with chief. Enjoy.
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:05 PM   #4
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Yes, you should be OK, but look carefully at the sway control systems. We were nearly killed when a Reese hitch failed in strong Texas winds.
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Old 04-29-2017, 05:36 PM   #5
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You want your WD bars to match your tongue weight, not exceed it.
You have the right equipment.
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Old 04-29-2017, 08:20 PM   #6
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Thanks so much! Ya'll are making me feel confident!
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Old 04-29-2017, 08:56 PM   #7
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Your hitch weight at the hitch receiver should be about 1,000 lbs with the trailer loaded for travel. The w.d. hitch also has to lift any gear in the Tahoe loaded behind it's rear axle to be adequate to return the front axle to it's unloaded weight (or more, equally loaded axles give us the best handling and braking), ensure the Tahoe's rear axle is not overloaded, an distribute about 200 lbs to the trailer's axles.

You might be close (we need 1400 lb bars for our pickup and 25' Airstream). Take the truck to a CAT scale and see what load each Tahoe axle is carrying. Then when all hitched up and loaded and weight distribution set, take it back again and see what each Tahoe axle and the trailer axles are carrying. Compare the truck's front axle weights before and after, they should be the same or carry a little more with the trailer w.d. applied. Compare the Tahoe axle weights to the GAWR (axle weight ratings) on the door placard. Compare the trailer axle weights to it's GAWR. Compare the weight of the whole rig to the maximum combined weight for the Tahoe (you'll have to look this up).
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Old 04-29-2017, 09:24 PM   #8
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well my Tahoe has a third row seat. I'm guessing now nothing should be packed in that area. Normally, we take out those two seats and put our cooler. Thinking now we'd better just take out the seats and not put hardly anything there!
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Old 04-29-2017, 09:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopeful1 View Post
well my Tahoe has a third row seat. I'm guessing now nothing should be packed in that area. Normally, we take out those two seats and put our cooler. Thinking now we'd better just take out the seats and not put hardly anything there!
When you get it set up and loaded, take it to the CAT scale and see what you have, then you don't have to guess anymore. Think about what you really need with your new Airstream, it has a good fridge so maybe you don't need the cooler, for example. We use the far back of our truck for lighter gear, load any heavier items forward or in the Airstream.
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Old 04-30-2017, 01:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopeful1 View Post
well my Tahoe has a third row seat. I'm guessing now nothing should be packed in that area. Normally, we take out those two seats and put our cooler. Thinking now we'd better just take out the seats and not put hardly anything there!
We carry nothing in our truck except comfort items for the road like pillows and snacks. Your truck can pull about 8 times more weight in the trailer than it can carry in the back.
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Old 04-30-2017, 03:49 PM   #11
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We carry nothing in our truck except comfort items for the road like pillows and snacks. Your truck can pull about 8 times more weight in the trailer than it can carry in the back.
^^What he said AND you can distribute the weight in the trailer to help reduce tongue weight.
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Old 04-30-2017, 06:18 PM   #12
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Hopeful
In addition to what others said about the WD and sway control make sure you have the electric brake controller set just right. I pulled my little 20ft FC with both a '05 Yukon and '12 Tahoe (both with the 5.3L motor that I assume you have too), and was caught only once going downhill in PA hills with the umbilical disconnected. I don't ever want to do that again given the relatively short wheelbase of our Tahoes. Expect to get 11-12mpg. Safe travels. jon
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Old 04-30-2017, 06:31 PM   #13
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We have never hooked up the umbilical without a strap wrapped around it to secure the little catch on the socket from popping loose. Got that tip early on from Robert Cross on this forum. Thanks Bob, we like to keep our brakes all working.
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Old 04-30-2017, 10:13 PM   #14
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Hopeful
In addition to what others said about the WD and sway control make sure you have the electric brake controller set just right. I pulled my little 20ft FC with both a '05 Yukon and '12 Tahoe (both with the 5.3L motor that I assume you have too), and was caught only once going downhill in PA hills with the umbilical disconnected. I don't ever want to do that again given the relatively short wheelbase of our Tahoes. Expect to get 11-12mpg. Safe travels. jon

Thanks so much for the tip! Embarrassed to say I thought our brake controller was a part of our tow package! Face palm. And so nifty to have to hardwire that sucker into the Tahoe (Gee, thanks GM!) instead of having a simple plug like other trucks and SUV's have! Lol.
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