Cummins diesel or International?

[scarylarry]

I'm also in with the Cummins. My 2000 Dodge has outlasted any other diesel I've had with 215,000 miles of no big engine repairs.. Did a fuel pressure gauge, a FASS lift pump and lots of fuel filters for no problems.

[JimGolden]

I also run a Cummins. Bought it new in August '04 when the '05's were coming out.....got a big black 4-door 8' bed 4x4 SLT with the 4-speed heavy duty automatic (they had two automatics for the 2004 1/2...the regular and the heavy). I pull a 34 foot triple axle 5 ton gross and my wife probably loads it to 6 tons....I have never hit a hill I could not accelerate up.

I'll echo what the others have said....when the big straight six hits its sweet spot, she just purrs up the road. I have had zero problems with this truck. I have been very happy with it. The only problem I have is that our calico cat, Cupcake, likes to walk on top of it and leave "footy prints" on it. Can't really blame the Mopar for that though

I use an Equal-I-Zer 14,000lb rated hitch with my trailer. I generally get 12-13 mpg towing and 19-21mpg empty. I used to get 2mpg better before they changed the diesel fuel formulation in late 2007. If you put fuel additive in, you'd probably get the higher mileage. I probably should run the fuel additive all the time but I don't....


At any rate, I have been extremely happy with my Mopar. The interior is not quite as fancy as the truck it replaced, but it's still nice. And, when I turn the key, it runs. That is worth more to me than any heated leather seat (my Excursion had all the goodies but liked to puke spark plugs...)

You won't go wrong with a Cummins.

Oh yeah, my "other" car is a '70 Dodge Charger with a 440 Magnum and a 4-speed

Mopar or NoCar!

[Eaglemate]

What would be the max mileage you'd consider in buying one? I have a budget of about $17,000.00 and anything I find is in the 150,000 mile range.

[Midnightmoon]

Originally Posted by Eaglemate

What would be the max mileage you'd consider in buying one? I have a budget of about $17,000.00 and anything I find is in the 150,000 mile range.

It all depends on the year, make and model that you are looking at. Mileage on a pre '07.5 Dodge Cummins is second to the overall condition of the truck. If it is maintained well and not abused, 150K on the 5.9L internals is nothing. I have one 3rd gen currently pushing close to 300K of very hard work and it runs like the day we drove it off the lot. However, you have to consider things like injection pumps on the 2nd gen 24-valves and injectors on the early 3rd gen trucks. If you find one that you like that has higher mileage, take it to any of the dozens of quality independent diesel shops around the country to have them look it over. PM me if you need assistance finding a good Cummins shop. I happen to know a few.

The 6.7L in the '07.5 and newer trucks has proven to be solid also, except for some emission system problems, especially for trucks that have been used for "grocery getter" duty. They tend to have soot buildup issues with the DPF and turbos, especially with the first couple model years.

[RickDavis]

I would be comfortable buying a well maintained Cummins in that mileage range.

AS I said before, 565K and other than an injection pump no engine related repairs.
The engine itself has never been opened. I see little if any change in performance today as compared to when bought it.

[KeithC]

Run, run, run from any Ford truck with a 6.0 L diesel engine. I have one and have spend thousands trying to keep it running. Ford has never fixed this engine and will not stand behind their product.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by Eaglemate

What would be the max mileage you'd consider in buying one? I have a budget of about $17,000.00 and anything I find is in the 150,000 mile range.

We need to know more.

2WD

4WD

Auto trans

Man trans

I bought mine when it was less than 4-yrs old and had 120k on it for 19k. No abuse evidence in re GN or 5'er hitches, "tuners", etc. Owned by a service company that turned them at three years. Chrysler VIP report told me what I wanted (along with Carfax). Call in favors and be ready to travel.

Much depends on your competence about vehicle mechanics or that of a good friend.

Engine hours need to show a 30-mph average preferably. I'd not really like less than a 27-mph average.

Your budget is one I would work with, too, and 150k ought to be "do-able" . . for a great 2WD/manual.

The 4WD/auto will be expensive to repair (which it will need). Happily, the 2WD is not only cheaper to run, it is always cheaper to buy.

See what is up on Autotrader and link us to some candidates. Make the '03 and early '04 models the center of your search. No advantages to later with a few disadvantages accruing (service interval, poor seats). Best motor tune is the one I also have: 305HP & 555TQ.

The later 600TQ engine has a third injection event, poor piston design and much shorter oil change interval that shows up at 1 Jan 2004.

You can also dig around on CUMMINSFORUM for more specific info.

.

[JFScheck]

Why not Ford Power Stroke as your oil burner?

[GCinSC2]

Rednax mentioned some good points, tuner and hitch connections.

I looked at a Dodge Cummins truck that someone already owned and we were trying to figure out tuner or not type of status. Many under hood box installations use a velcro tape and many mount to the power distribution fuse box cover. If it shows a piece of tape or is completely missing, thats a possible tuner sign. Look at the exhaust manifold above the turbo and then look at the turbo outlet for any drilled and tapped pipe plug holes. Dodge didn't spec EGR temp ports, drilled and tapped for 1/8 or 1/4 pipe is an indicator of an EGR thermocouple. Best way to use the info would be to ask about a tuner before pointing out these observations, seller upfront about knowledge of tuner compared to your observations.

One thing that is a little bit of a concern in my book would be a bunch of non factory wiring at the batteries. It can be done very professionally or really butchered. Also looking at the trailer connections will tell you how many backyard or roadside repairs have been done to the harness. Not a reason to walk away, reason to look closer.

Many times the std air intake is replaced with a high flow intake. Many do a great job, but several brands flow a bit more air at the expense of passing stuff that should have been trapped by the filter. Remove the top of the air box and then the filter if so equipped. VERY CAREFULLY take a super clean never been used piece of white cloth, reach down into the air tube that feeds the turbo and wipe the tube with the cloth a bit. Remove and carefully inspect cloth. It better be dust free and spotless.

Looking at a potential diesel is one thing, but for maybe $50 bucks or less (I'm including a little labor and some replacement engine oil) see if the seller will let you do an engine oil analysis. You buy the test kit, take a sample and mail it in, a few days or so later you get a report on the contaminants in the oil and the engines wear metals, show it to a diesel guy that ain't involved and get their opinion or call the test lab and try to pick their brains about interpreting their report.

OK, I'm a Cummins guy but my best buddies '11 Ford 6.7L at less than one year of service showed him a CHECK COOLANT light. It wasn't low, it was sensing that it needed freshening up on one of the critical additives that prevents cavitation (someone will chime in if i'm out in left field) so he ordered a test strip kit for the coolant to test and verify. Sure enough, it was low on additive, had to take it in to Ford and get the additive. Same time he ran a dip test on my 120,000 mile 7 year old Cummins, he threw the test strip away in discust, spot on. My coolant hasn't been changed yet, might do it this year just because its good for it.

If I was looking I'd be looking for a non-modified truck, the more they left it alone, the bigger $ premium I'd put on that particular truck.

[jdalrymple]

You are already happy with the GM body. Why not Duramax?

When I talk the Dodge owners, I hear nothing but chassis and tranny complaints.

Ford rode the 7.3 to death, and has never gotten close to a replacement.

The Duramax/Allly is a 12 year old proven design in the best riding chassis on the road.

My humble opinion, of course.

[slowmover]

Very well done, GCinSC2!

FYI, the stock air filter box flows well enough to 450HP to make aftermarket unnecessary. There is no mpg gain with such. I'd dump any non-factory piece.

The info about velcro, tapped ports and the rest is "the evidence".

A new set of factory fuel injectors is around $3000 for the parts. Plus new connector tubes at around $900. Some tuners (and a bigger turbo that may have been installed at some point) add a lot of fuel. This is where the problems really come from. A bit of advanced mechanical timing, not so much.

The "kiddies" run them hard and unmercifully. And when it starts to act funny, they dump it. Swap gear back into place and get'em something else to dog on.

An aftermarket fuel pump (FASS or AIRDOG) is a good sign overall. Dodge didn't spec what Bosch would have preferred on filtration, plus the factory lift pump tends to go out at some point. This is an item I'll add on mine after a few other things done.

An exhaust brake, turbo-mounted or farther back, is not a bad sign. If a 5'er hitch is present expect that the trailer was likely 10k or heavier with both items present.

Be sure to slide underneath to examine a good prospect it's full length. All these trucks came with big steel two-piece driveshafts and prominent carrier bearing. One-piece aluminum are popular replacements . . usually as a result of a really heavy trailer of some sort.

.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by jdalrymple

You are already happy with the GM body. Why not Duramax?

When I talk the Dodge owners, I hear nothing but chassis and tranny complaints.

Ford rode the 7.3 to death, and has never gotten close to a replacement.

The Duramax/Allly is a 12 year old proven design in the best riding chassis on the road.

My humble opinion, of course.

Only the 2001 LB-series motor could match CTD mpg. And only one other year (2007?) came close on reliability/longevity. Easier to hit a triple with a CTD overall (assuming 2WD/manual).

[jdalrymple]

Read my post. No complaints on the engine.

Keeping the chassis and tranny around it is the issue.

JD

[RickDavis]

Originally Posted by jdalrymple

Read my post. No complaints on the engine.

Keeping the chassis and tranny around it is the issue.

JD

My 5 speed manual (2wd) has been fine but it was my observation that the automatics seemed to go out at about 200k. This is based on feedback from other drivers when I was in the trailer hauling business. They are a good source of info since the miles are put on so fast.

Regarding the chassis I have never replaced anything except a u joint in over half a million miles. I did drill and tap the ball joints for grease fittings when I got the truck and that may be why I have had no problems.
My gripe with the truck has been a running fight with the air conditioner although the original compressor is still there.

[Eaglemate]

2005 Ford F350 King Ranch, $16,850 - Cars.com

[Eaglemate]

Well, Rednax, you'll be disappointed because I got off track. What I did find is in the link I just posted, at $16,000.00. It's the 350, single axle, automatic. It's an 06, and I am concerned about the emissions conversion.

It will need new tires.

Was this included in the "run from it" quote?

[slowmover]

I thought you wanted something reliable. With good fuel mileage. With real longevity.

FORD is a fail on every category.

There will be people who tell you that the Sick-O engine and the later 6.4 are okay once you spend a few thousand on them. Alright, . . then why isn't Ford using them anymore?

So, not just a fail but, an epic fail.

If you went with a FORD gasser because you found what you believed to be a really good deal and were willing to eat the fuel costs, then no one would fault it. All three makers have good 1T with gasser combos.

The order of preference on diesel is about numbers pure and simple: longevity, reliability and low op cost.

1] Dodge CTD
2] GM Maxipad
3] (There is no third place choice)

.

[Eaglemate]

Ok Rednax, just making sure I got your blood pressure up a bit. This one is probably better...

2002 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT, $10,995 - Cars.com

[slowmover]

Yeah, I just did an Autotrader search 300-miles around 38127 and you all is short of nice trucks. Most of 'em never got out of Texas it looks like. Got some family in the Lone Star you can bunk with?


I've been looking at this one just outside Dallas for a month or more:

Randall Noe, Rockwall, TX 2004.0 555 CTD

I'd like another one. Maybe my son might want it. Hmmmm . . . .

G'town to Rockwall is under one day drive.

.

[slowmover]

[QUOTE=Eaglemate;1134583]Ok Rednax, just making sure I got your blood pressure up a bit. This one is probably better...

I haven't priced the 2nd Gen trucks. But DRW rides hard. 2002 has disc brakes, but still with VP-44 fuel pump weakness. There's good and bad. A DRW can be converted to SRW. A spare VP-44 can be carried aboard. For that price (if it is competitive) it's okay to go from this distance. I would not want automatic, though.

2003-2004 really is the sweet spot. 2WD plus the 6-manual (NV-5600).