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Old 01-23-2016, 09:55 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by MelGoddard View Post
Aww! The voice of experience!

"Good judgement is the result of experience; experience is the result of bad judgement." (Transport Canada

You know how it is.
The tongue wight on my 30' International was around 890 Lbs. So in my infinite wisdom I thought the 800 pound bar would be marginal so I chose the 1,200, the more better. It took me a while to realize why the ride became so stiff.
Changed back to the 800 pounder and it worked beautifully.
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:35 AM   #16
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I've often wondered if 800# w.d. bars raised to the limit of their range in vertical movement would actually ride softer than a 1200# w.d. bar raised to half of their range of vertical movement?

My limited mechanical reasoning tells me no, get the size bar you need for your tongue weight and truck bed load. Restoring the front axle weight (as recommended by the tow vehicle manufacturer) is the goal.

In the case of heavy duty truck suspensions, heavy unsprung truck axle weight you may not be able to achieve a softer ride for your Airstream no matter size of the w.d. bars.

In the case of a long wheelbase tow vehicle, you may need a heavier w.d. bar than a shorter wheelbase vehicle to restore front axle weight. Suspension stiffness may also make a difference.

Select a w.d. bar based on best information; scale weights or wheel well measurements will determine if the bar is restoring enough weight to the front axle.

We were not able to get the best handling, braking and ride until we got our weight distribution right.
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:55 AM   #17
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I can tell you that my 600# Reese DC bars were perfect for my 850 tw classic (before I got the hensley )
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:03 PM   #18
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See pic. This was on an Escalade or Yokon XL Denali. I towed with both and can't tell in the pic. So, pretty long wb and soft suspension.
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Old 01-23-2016, 01:15 PM   #19
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Thumbs up Often overlooked.......

........RECEIVER DESIGN.

The OEM hitch on our 2500 Burb struggled to transfer enough weight even when using haha 1400b bars.

Short mount arms= less purchase.


Longer arms = 840lbs moved with 1000b bars plus a much better ride.


Bob
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:37 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
........RECEIVER DESIGN.



The OEM hitch on our 2500 Burb struggled to transfer enough weight even when using haha 1400b bars.



Short mount arms= less purchase.





Longer arms = 840lbs moved with 1000b bars plus a much better ride.





Bob


Apologies for the hijack here - but I can totally see the difference in those 2 receivers - with the second one installed (on the same Burb) does that change the tow ratings, the tongue weight capacity, neither, both, something else? Thanks!
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:53 PM   #21
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Bob, timely post. Good example how some of the w.d. bar capability can be used up just bending the receiver assembly, in some cases even the truck frame, without transferring much weight.
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:44 PM   #22
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The goal of the bars is to transfer some of the tongue weight and lower the front of the tow vehicle. My 2013 Tundra is close to the trailer weight and my trailer is 4300# empty and about 6000# loaded with full water tank (front) and full propane tanks, but, my tongue is light at a measured 540#. I have both 750 and 1000# bars and tried both. Everything I read said 750# bars should work but I could not get the front to come down. With the 1000# bars I was able to get the front of the truck within 1" with the rear.
The online 2013 Tundra Owner's Manual states:

If using a weight distributing hitch when towing, return the front axle to the same weight as before the trailer connection.
If front axle weight cannot be measured directly, measure the front fender height above the front axle before connection.
Adjust weight distributing hitch torque until front fender is returned to the same height as before connection.
Do not reduce front fender height below original measurement.

(Bold added for emphasis)

Within the last six years Toyota and other major TV and WDH manufacturers have abandoned the outdated "equal squat" (or nearly equal squat) approach which still is advocated by Eaz-lift.

You might want to consider following Toyota's current specification for WDH adjustment.

Ron
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Old 01-23-2016, 07:16 PM   #23
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I have just finished spending the past few weeks reading everything I could get my hands on, and corresponding with a number of users, regarding weight distribution hitch selection. Andy Thomson at CanAm suggested an Eaz-Lift hitch with 1400# bars, plus a pair of Husky sway bars (this is for an F-150 crew cab 4X4 and 25' Airstream). His observation was that it takes this strength bars to transfer enough of the high tongue weight to the front of this somewhat long wheelbase TV.---
Since circa 2016, Ford has specified that, with an F-150, the WDH should be adjusted to eliminate approximately 50% of the front-end rise resulting from attaching a TT with no WD applied.
This means that only about 50% of the load removed from the front end should be restored via the WDH.

If you were to follow Ford's specification, the Curt 1000# bars should be more than adequate and the 600 bars might suffice.

Ron
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Old 01-23-2016, 08:29 PM   #24
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Ron, you make a good point. Bars are cheap; if it's a harsh ride I'll try the 1,000 lb. bars. But for now I'll follow Andy T.'s guidance and will see how it goes.

My 2013 owner's manual also speaks to the 50% load transfer you mentioned. It may be that since all pick-ups are so nose heavy, "fixing" half the rise only corrects something the Factory would have liked to have done if it were possible.
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:08 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Bob662 View Post
Ron, you make a good point. Bars are cheap; if it's a harsh ride I'll try the 1,000 lb. bars. But for now I'll follow Andy T.'s guidance and will see how it goes.

My 2013 owner's manual also speaks to the 50% load transfer you mentioned. It may be that since all pick-ups are so nose heavy, "fixing" half the rise only corrects something the Factory would have liked to have done if it were possible.
It might go in a direction you don't want it to go.

An alternate explanation for why Ford, Chevrolet/GMC, Toyota, Equal-I-zer, Reese, and others now are specifying front axle load restoration of not more than 100% is given in http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ml#post1500973.

Ron
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:47 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Apologies for the hijack here - but I can totally see the difference in those 2 receivers - with the second one installed (on the same Burb) does that change the tow ratings, the tongue weight capacity, neither, both, something else? Thanks!
SSM,

The only thing 'changed' is the weight the receiver is rated to carry.

The extra length of the mounts improves the leverage the WD bars apply to the Burbs frame.....more efficient weight transfer.

Poor design, corrosion & cracking welds were the primary reasons for upgrading the OEM. 2000 thru 2010...haven't kept track of the new GM receivers.



If it's a 'round bar', inspect often....or replace once and be done with it.


Bob
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Old 01-24-2016, 09:43 AM   #27
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This is an excellent question.

I have just finished spending the past few weeks reading everything I could get my hands on, and corresponding with a number of users, regarding weight distribution hitch selection. Andy Thomson at CanAm suggested an Eaz-Lift hitch with 1400# bars, plus a pair of Husky sway bars (this is for an F-150 crew cab 4X4 and 25' Airstream). His observation was that it takes this strength bars to transfer enough of the high tongue weight to the front of this somewhat long wheelbase TV. He likes the Husky sway bars because they are quieter than others.

In the end, I essentially followed Andy T's advice. I chose round bars because they may ride somewhat "softer" than trunnion bars. Rather than the Eaz-Lift, I chose Curt because I wanted grease zerk fittings in the head and I liked the way the torsion bars are released, but I am using the Husky sway bars. Frankly, I couldn't discern much difference between the various round bar heads, except the Reece head is forged while all the others are welded steel. Of course, some claim "4-point" sway control like Equal-i-zer and a couple of others. Blue Ox claims built in sway control because its chains are tightened close to the take-up bracket. It may be worth noting that Sean and Kristy, of Long Long Honeymoon fame, use a Reese round bar hitch, but not dual cams--he selected just one sway bar rather than two for his 25' Airstream, and they have towed in all 49 states.

I rejected the ProPride/Hensley because I didn't want any more tongue weight, not because of cost. I opted out of the Reese dual cams for reasons not especially relevant here.

Andy R. at Inland suggests the tighter sprung the TV, the lighter weight the torsion bars should be. He's the pro and I'm not, but the physics imply that wheelbase is important. That's but one reason I followed Andy Thomson's advice.
We have a 30' International and F-150 TV.
The first hitch we started with was an Ez Lift. The ride was very stiff and it was noisy. Great WD and Sway prevention. After one year I switched to an Anderson for being quieter and improved anti sway. I should have payed attention to the forums, it was neither. I ditched it after struggling with it for one season. I bought the Blue Ox last year and it was an excellent choice. It is far better than the EZ in every aspect. I am 100 percent satisfied with it.
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Old 01-24-2016, 11:39 AM   #28
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We experienced with the Equalizer brand equalizer hitch on two different tow vehicles with coil springs all around, the load bars twist car on suspension.
Since the Equalizer brand stirrups don't have a"happy centering" ability like Reese dual cam, on a coil spring equipped tow car like our 1969 Cadillac or our 2012 Toyota FJ Cruiser, after making a turn the resistance from the load leveling bars laying on the stirrup doesn't return completely, twisting car body on the coil springs. It take miles before car body is in alignment trailer. Equalizer "rep" told when calling them, there is no way around this event. So, we now tow the 1967 GT/Cadillac combo and Bambi Quick Silver/FJ with Reese dual cam. Complete different beast
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