Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-23-2016, 02:53 PM   #21
Rivet Master
 
dkottum's Avatar
 
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
Bob, timely post. Good example how some of the w.d. bar capability can be used up just bending the receiver assembly, in some cases even the truck frame, without transferring much weight.
__________________
Doug and Cheryl
2012 FC RB, Michelin 16, ProPride 1400
2016 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 Ecodiesel 3.92 axles

The Truth is More Important Than the Facts
dkottum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2016, 05:44 PM   #22
4 Rivet Member
 
Livingston , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 394
Quote:
Originally Posted by rvb View Post
The goal of the bars is to transfer some of the tongue weight and lower the front of the tow vehicle. My 2013 Tundra is close to the trailer weight and my trailer is 4300# empty and about 6000# loaded with full water tank (front) and full propane tanks, but, my tongue is light at a measured 540#. I have both 750 and 1000# bars and tried both. Everything I read said 750# bars should work but I could not get the front to come down. With the 1000# bars I was able to get the front of the truck within 1" with the rear.
The online 2013 Tundra Owner's Manual states:

If using a weight distributing hitch when towing, return the front axle to the same weight as before the trailer connection.
If front axle weight cannot be measured directly, measure the front fender height above the front axle before connection.
Adjust weight distributing hitch torque until front fender is returned to the same height as before connection.
Do not reduce front fender height below original measurement.

(Bold added for emphasis)

Within the last six years Toyota and other major TV and WDH manufacturers have abandoned the outdated "equal squat" (or nearly equal squat) approach which still is advocated by Eaz-lift.

You might want to consider following Toyota's current specification for WDH adjustment.

Ron
Ron Gratz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2016, 06:16 PM   #23
4 Rivet Member
 
Livingston , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob662 View Post
I have just finished spending the past few weeks reading everything I could get my hands on, and corresponding with a number of users, regarding weight distribution hitch selection. Andy Thomson at CanAm suggested an Eaz-Lift hitch with 1400# bars, plus a pair of Husky sway bars (this is for an F-150 crew cab 4X4 and 25' Airstream). His observation was that it takes this strength bars to transfer enough of the high tongue weight to the front of this somewhat long wheelbase TV.---
Since circa 2016, Ford has specified that, with an F-150, the WDH should be adjusted to eliminate approximately 50% of the front-end rise resulting from attaching a TT with no WD applied.
This means that only about 50% of the load removed from the front end should be restored via the WDH.

If you were to follow Ford's specification, the Curt 1000# bars should be more than adequate and the 600 bars might suffice.

Ron
Ron Gratz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2016, 07:29 PM   #24
4 Rivet Member
 
2016 25' Flying Cloud
Holly Springs , Mississippi
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 426
Ron, you make a good point. Bars are cheap; if it's a harsh ride I'll try the 1,000 lb. bars. But for now I'll follow Andy T.'s guidance and will see how it goes.

My 2013 owner's manual also speaks to the 50% load transfer you mentioned. It may be that since all pick-ups are so nose heavy, "fixing" half the rise only corrects something the Factory would have liked to have done if it were possible.
__________________
Bob

2016 FC 25' FB twin
2013 F-150 Lariat CrewCab 3.5 EB 4X4 3.55 axle
Bob662 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2016, 08:08 PM   #25
4 Rivet Member
 
Livingston , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob662 View Post
Ron, you make a good point. Bars are cheap; if it's a harsh ride I'll try the 1,000 lb. bars. But for now I'll follow Andy T.'s guidance and will see how it goes.

My 2013 owner's manual also speaks to the 50% load transfer you mentioned. It may be that since all pick-ups are so nose heavy, "fixing" half the rise only corrects something the Factory would have liked to have done if it were possible.
It might go in a direction you don't want it to go.

An alternate explanation for why Ford, Chevrolet/GMC, Toyota, Equal-I-zer, Reese, and others now are specifying front axle load restoration of not more than 100% is given in http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ml#post1500973.

Ron
Ron Gratz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2016, 09:47 PM   #26
"Cloudsplitter"

 
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas , Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Apologies for the hijack here - but I can totally see the difference in those 2 receivers - with the second one installed (on the same Burb) does that change the tow ratings, the tongue weight capacity, neither, both, something else? Thanks!
SSM,

The only thing 'changed' is the weight the receiver is rated to carry.

The extra length of the mounts improves the leverage the WD bars apply to the Burbs frame.....more efficient weight transfer.

Poor design, corrosion & cracking welds were the primary reasons for upgrading the OEM. 2000 thru 2010...haven't kept track of the new GM receivers.



If it's a 'round bar', inspect often....or replace once and be done with it.


Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2016, 08:43 AM   #27
Rivet Master
 
2017 30' Classic
Anna Maria , Florida
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,644
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob662 View Post
This is an excellent question.

I have just finished spending the past few weeks reading everything I could get my hands on, and corresponding with a number of users, regarding weight distribution hitch selection. Andy Thomson at CanAm suggested an Eaz-Lift hitch with 1400# bars, plus a pair of Husky sway bars (this is for an F-150 crew cab 4X4 and 25' Airstream). His observation was that it takes this strength bars to transfer enough of the high tongue weight to the front of this somewhat long wheelbase TV. He likes the Husky sway bars because they are quieter than others.

In the end, I essentially followed Andy T's advice. I chose round bars because they may ride somewhat "softer" than trunnion bars. Rather than the Eaz-Lift, I chose Curt because I wanted grease zerk fittings in the head and I liked the way the torsion bars are released, but I am using the Husky sway bars. Frankly, I couldn't discern much difference between the various round bar heads, except the Reece head is forged while all the others are welded steel. Of course, some claim "4-point" sway control like Equal-i-zer and a couple of others. Blue Ox claims built in sway control because its chains are tightened close to the take-up bracket. It may be worth noting that Sean and Kristy, of Long Long Honeymoon fame, use a Reese round bar hitch, but not dual cams--he selected just one sway bar rather than two for his 25' Airstream, and they have towed in all 49 states.

I rejected the ProPride/Hensley because I didn't want any more tongue weight, not because of cost. I opted out of the Reese dual cams for reasons not especially relevant here.

Andy R. at Inland suggests the tighter sprung the TV, the lighter weight the torsion bars should be. He's the pro and I'm not, but the physics imply that wheelbase is important. That's but one reason I followed Andy Thomson's advice.
We have a 30' International and F-150 TV.
The first hitch we started with was an Ez Lift. The ride was very stiff and it was noisy. Great WD and Sway prevention. After one year I switched to an Anderson for being quieter and improved anti sway. I should have payed attention to the forums, it was neither. I ditched it after struggling with it for one season. I bought the Blue Ox last year and it was an excellent choice. It is far better than the EZ in every aspect. I am 100 percent satisfied with it.
franklyfrank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2016, 10:39 AM   #28
Rivet Master
 
Coloradobus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 899
We experienced with the Equalizer brand equalizer hitch on two different tow vehicles with coil springs all around, the load bars twist car on suspension.
Since the Equalizer brand stirrups don't have a"happy centering" ability like Reese dual cam, on a coil spring equipped tow car like our 1969 Cadillac or our 2012 Toyota FJ Cruiser, after making a turn the resistance from the load leveling bars laying on the stirrup doesn't return completely, twisting car body on the coil springs. It take miles before car body is in alignment trailer. Equalizer "rep" told when calling them, there is no way around this event. So, we now tow the 1967 GT/Cadillac combo and Bambi Quick Silver/FJ with Reese dual cam. Complete different beast
Coloradobus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2016, 12:42 PM   #29
Rivet Master
 
m.hony's Avatar
 
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood , Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 12,111
The phenomenon you describe with the Equal-I-zer "steering" the tow vehicle applies to solid/live axle/leaf spring pickups, too evidently.
I got used to it.
That's when you know it's working.
If has no noticeable effect then it is providing any sway control, either.
And, like you said, there is no way around it.


Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums
__________________
2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
m.hony is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need help choosing hitch streamy Hitches, Couplers & Balls 17 09-03-2011 07:22 AM
What's the proper hitch for me? Murphuga Hitches, Couplers & Balls 13 10-08-2010 03:27 PM
Choosing a hitch system jbailey01 Hitches, Couplers & Balls 5 06-23-2010 05:33 PM
proper hitch, bars hook-up procedure az-streamer Hitches, Couplers & Balls 7 08-19-2009 04:45 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:29 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.