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Old 07-03-2017, 04:56 AM   #1
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Question Can a 2013 Ford F150 V8 with 3.55 Axle tow a 27 FB?

I am interested in the 27FB AS and have a 2013 Ford F150 with a 5.0 V8 (3.55 Axle). The Ford specs say it can tow 7800 lbs. and the 27FB AS has a GVWR 7600 lbs. Since this is so close to the limit, I am curious is anyone has tried this combination or can shed some light.
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Old 07-03-2017, 05:11 AM   #2
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I haven't tried it. A comment though: The 7600 GVWR of the 27FB is its max. Fully loaded for camping you may find you're several hundred pounds below that max (we come in around 6000). The 27FB does tend to have a higher that stated tongue weight because the storage is in the front of the trailer on the A-frame so consider the tongue weight limits of your receiver and that counts against payload.
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Old 07-03-2017, 05:29 AM   #3
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Thanks, I am a to be - new be. I have a few years to retirement and trying to do the research on size of AS and TV needed. I am leaning towards a 25 or 27 AS but already own a F150 with only 30K miles.
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Old 07-03-2017, 06:04 AM   #4
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If you resist the urge to drive like a "bat out of hell" and you stay in relatively flat areas you will be fine. It's once you get into hill country that you will have to be extra careful. And it's not only "out west" the Appalachians out east have some pretty long grades. You will need to gear down and take it slow on the uphills. You might also have to turn off the air conditioner when going up a steep grade.

If your travels are only occasional and close to home you'll be OK with that engine. But if you plan to travel extensively including some cross country trips, you will probably want to get a new tow vehicle. The F-150 with the 3.5 liter Ecoboost is a very popular tow vehicle for larger Airstreams.
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Old 07-03-2017, 06:40 AM   #5
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If you resist the urge to drive like a "bat out of hell" and you stay in relatively flat areas you will be fine. It's once you get into hill country that you will have to be extra careful. And it's not only "out west" the Appalachians out east have some pretty long grades. You will need to gear down and take it slow on the uphills. You might also have to turn off the air conditioner when going up a steep grade.

If your travels are only occasional and close to home you'll be OK with that engine. But if you plan to travel extensively including some cross country trips, you will probably want to get a new tow vehicle. The F-150 with the 3.5 liter Ecoboost is a very popular tow vehicle for larger Airstreams.
I'd mostly agree. As a point of reference, I towed a 25' with a 2012 5.0 3.55 and it handled very well, particularly after I moved to LT tires on the truck. That was for two week trips on the east coast but included steep ascents and descents in the smokey mountains, etc.

I then moved to a 30' and still towed with the 5.0. Again mostly for two week trips. The 30' has a dry weight of 6,500 lbs so I had to be careful what I put in there as well as what I put in the truck.

I did that for a while satisfactorily.

I just started full-timing and have moved to an F-250 6.2L gas. I only have about 400 miles towing with the new truck but it's already clear that it is not miles ahead of the old one.

But it is better in every conceivable way. It has more power, more stability, better braking, better engine/transmission cooling, and the transmission (3.73 gear) is just better tuned for towing. I don't have to lock out 6th gear like with the old truck.

Plus the new truck has over 3,000 payload so I don't have to be so careful.

If you are going with a 27' I would strongly recommend a 3/4 ton.

BTW, my 2012 only had 40,000 miles on it so I understand the desire not to trade so quickly.
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:32 AM   #6
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You have the truck, it's nearly new, it's not at it's limit, it's within it's capability to tow an Airstream 27. It's also a size truck that is comfortable as a daily driver.

The other third of the combination is the weight distribution hitch which will ensure the loads are distributed across the truck and Airstream's axles, and the sway control or sway elimination system which will ensure the truck remains stable in all driving conditions.

There are load, speed and terrain considerations. Learn what is appropriate to your combination and travel, use the combination accordingly. That's a popular vehicle for a mid-size airstream. It does very well, people tend to trade to heavier duty trucks from what they read on internet forums rather than dissatisfaction with the product.
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:38 AM   #7
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You have the truck, it's nearly new, it's not at it's limit, it's within it's capability to tow an Airstream 27. It's also a size truck that is comfortable as a daily driver.

The other third of the combination is the weight distribution hitch which will ensure the loads are distributed across the truck and Airstream's axles, and the sway control or sway elimination system which will ensure the truck remains stable in all driving conditions.

There are load, speed and terrain considerations. Learn what is appropriate to your combination and travel, use the combination accordingly. That's a popular vehicle for a mid-size airstream. It does very well, people tend to trade to heavier duty trucks from what they read on internet forums rather than dissatisfaction with the product.
3.73 gears in that truck would really help.
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:47 AM   #8
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3.73 gears in that truck would really help.
I agree, we have 3.92 gears in ours. Less downshifting/engine revving moving along over hills on the highway and lots of grunt on the steep grades.

But it's really a matter of selecting a lower transmission gear to prevent the frequent downshifts and leave it there. Same with the steep grades, select the lower transmission gear you need; that applies to going down the steep grades as well as up.
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Old 07-03-2017, 10:20 AM   #9
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I agree, we have 3.92 gears in ours. Less downshifting/engine revving moving along over hills on the highway and lots of grunt on the steep grades.

But it's really a matter of selecting a lower transmission gear to prevent the frequent downshifts and leave it there. Same with the steep grades, select the lower transmission gear you need; that applies to going down the steep grades as well as up.
Well, I thought the same thing and posted something about it on a Ford forum. I basically asked if locking out 6th would somewhat simulate the 3.73. I equate it to having gears on a bike but not using the tallest ones going uphill.

The overall consensus was clear - there's more to it than the final drive ratio. The entire drive train is affected by the final drive, so my thought process was deemed incorrect. YMMV.
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Old 07-03-2017, 11:11 AM   #10
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Well, I thought the same thing and posted something about it on a Ford forum. I basically asked if locking out 6th would somewhat simulate the 3.73. I equate it to having gears on a bike but not using the tallest ones going uphill.

The overall consensus was clear - there's more to it than the final drive ratio. The entire drive train is affected by the final drive, so my thought process was deemed incorrect. YMMV.
So, each gear is in fact affected by the final drive, but if the truck is in a good RPM range to deliver power in 5th it'll be fine (5th is slightly over-drive on a 6R80... there's not really a 1:1 gear, 4th is a bit underdriven, 5th is a short overdrive, 6th is a longer overdrive).

The differential ratio will affect how easily the truck rolls off from a stop, for example, but the main thing with towing with that 5.0 is not being afraid to let it develop some RPM. The world won't end if the engine turns over 3500 RPM but some people are afraid of the noise... when you need to merge into traffic or climb a significant grade, it'll need to spin up to make its rated power.
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Old 07-03-2017, 11:20 AM   #11
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Revving a modern V8 won't hurt anything. There is a BIG misconception around here that you must have a $70k Diesel to pull with. The turbo in diesels allow more torque and HP down low and the same goes for a turbo charged gas engine. Yes a diesel is easier to drive for those who don't understand physics. HP of a non-turbo gas engine is up high in the RPM range. You have to pay attention to RPM more but it can be done. I think your truck is a little over taxed with that axle but as the others have said, if you stay out of the mountains and don't be afraid to down shift, you should be fine. You might invest in a scan gauge to monitor transmission temperatures if you don't already have a temp gauge for that. The lower geared rear end would help alot.

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Old 07-03-2017, 12:08 PM   #12
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I had no issues letting the 5.0 rev. Agree 100%. Heck, even my 6.2 needs a few rpms at times.
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:51 PM   #13
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I have a F-150 with the 5.0. You are at the max. You need to check the door placard and check the payload max which will be between 1100-1600 lbs. If you have all the options, you will be down at 1100 lbs. You will easily exceed this if you carry stuff because the tongue wt. and hitch will consume most of that.
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Old 07-03-2017, 02:23 PM   #14
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Very well said, with nothing out of the box.\, and quite accurate.
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Old 07-03-2017, 02:26 PM   #15
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Message #14 was in response to #9 from Mr. Kottum.....hope that clears up asny confusion....


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Old 07-03-2017, 03:07 PM   #16
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Tow rating

Looking to buy a new truck. How can I tell the towing capacity by looking at the sticker on the door jam?
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Old 07-03-2017, 03:16 PM   #17
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Looking to buy a new truck. How can I tell the towing capacity by looking at the sticker on the door jam?
The label on the B-pillar tells you the max gross weights (total and per-axle) and payload capacity. Towing capacity is not mandated to be posted there so it's not. Ford publishes a guide every year, the "RV and Towing Guide" that shows the towing capacity for every truck, van and chassis-cab/cutaway they make. I'd guess the other manufacturers have a similar publication.
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Old 07-03-2017, 03:18 PM   #18
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I have a 2016 with the 3.5 ECO Boost (truck is rated to tow 11,300) and tow a 2017 30' FC.

My first trip was a white knuckle experience. The truck and the trailer were all over the place on the highway at 60 mph. And the V-6 worked it's a$$ off in the VA mtns.

I put on a set of Firestone air bags and it helped but I still wasn't pleased.

I have since bought a ProPride 1400 # hitch. The white knuckle experience is gone and the truck is not working as hard to pull the rig. I tow between 60 - 65 mph.

There are a lot of opinions on this forum about needing a 3/4 ton truck, I had a 3/4 ton truck but the body was rusting away. I purchased the F-150 because my neighbor has one and pulls a brand "x" that weighs a ton and has three slides.

IMHO, the hitch makes all the difference in the world.
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Old 07-03-2017, 03:54 PM   #19
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I have a F-150 with the 5.0. You are at the max. You need to check the door placard and check the payload max which will be between 1100-1600 lbs. If you have all the options, you will be down at 1100 lbs. You will easily exceed this if you carry stuff because the tongue wt. and hitch will consume most of that.
Hardly.

Placard payload is useful when using the truck for hauling. It's ridiculous to consider when towing with a weight distribution hitch. The axle ratings are the limits and the w.d. hitch can ensure they are not overloaded, as well as distributing 20% or so of hitch weight to the trailer's axles.

Witness the thousands of travel trailers being towed by F150s, and many of them have marginal w.d setups. Airstreams are an easier, more stable tow than the masses because of their independent suspension, low center of gravity, and rounded side and frontal shape.

Weight ratings are a one-size-fits-all. Consider the things that really matter.
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Old 07-03-2017, 05:09 PM   #20
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Revving a modern V8 won't hurt anything. There is a BIG misconception around here that you must have a $70k Diesel to pull with. The turbo in diesels allow more torque and HP down low and the same goes for a turbo charged gas engine. Yes a diesel is easier to drive for those who don't understand physics. HP of a non-turbo gas engine is up high in the RPM range. You have to pay attention to RPM more but it can be done. I think your truck is a little over taxed with that axle but as the others have said, if you stay out of the mountains and don't be afraid to down shift, you should be fine. You might invest in a scan gauge to monitor transmission temperatures if you don't already have a temp gauge for that. The lower geared rear end would help alot.

Perry
So , if I understand correctly what you said, those of us who choose a beefier diesel is because we are on the dumb side when it comes to physics. And as long as you are real smart about physics you can get by with a marginal set up. Got it ! I don' really understand how your reasoning helps the OP make a rational decision.
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