I solved the bottoming out quite by accident. I installed air shocks on my E350 extended van and use them to raise and lower both the rear of the van and the Airstream. When I see a bottom scrape problem coming I inflate the rear shocks to the max and slowly move over the scrape zone of the rear of the van so it won't scrape than let all the air out of the shocks so the rear of the Airstream is higher off the ground so it won't scrape. Going slow and inflating and deflating timing the shocks is important than remembering to put the air back in the shocks at the right pressure for my unit once on level ground. It really works. Andy from inland told me that air shocks were a bad idea "an accident waiting to happen". Well after thousands and thousands of miles towing I think the air shocks saved us from many close calls not to mention avoiding bottoming out problems.
The improper use of "air shocks" were a major factor in two thirds ofall loss of control accidents, as Caravanner Insurance company learned.
Any air pressure above minimum, will progressively reduce the stress on the "load equalizing bars." Accordingly then, why noy eliminate the bars all together and let the air shocks do the work?
The answer we all know, is that you "must" use load equalizing bars, and they must be properly rated and properly installed.
Caravanner Insurance had thousands of files to document that statement, especially what happens when someone has chosen to do otherwise.
Any given, far out example or opinion, does not out weight thousands of files of data, that very clearly demonstrated the need for load equalizing hitches, sway controls and proper ratings and installations.
I went to the lumber yard today, and bought a 2x10, cut it in half, and use that to bridge the low spot in our driveway. Our '63 has no skid plates, and I think a $7 piece of wood is cheaper than replacing several aluminum panels.
Good point, Terry. I used a 2x10, that I had in the truck for leveling up the AS, to help me get out of a parking lot with a steep dip in downtown Miami.
I can see skid plates working on gravel or dirt just fine. But on blacktop or cement they will either ride up or dig in.In Which case the rear quarter panels most likely will be damage.
Eric
I can see skid plates working on gravel or dirt just fine. But on blacktop or cement they will either ride up or dig in.In Which case the rear quarter panels most likely will be damage.
Eric
Eric I agree. But even more important reason for rollers in my mind, is when you are forced for what ever reason, to make a turn as you enter/exit a driveway or dip. It is at that time that you are not only applying upward force on the rear of the trailer, but also lateral forces as the tail swings during the turn.
Some would say thay you need to plan your route, etc. That's fine until forced out of your planned route by another vehicle, etc. I'm always very aware of dips/bumps but have still dragged the tail a few times. It happens.
Dave
i have dragged my skid plates a number of times in forward and reverse. mostly in my driveway. i have found that having the tanks empty and removing my bars prevent this.
when they get to the point of needing replacement i will just cut them off and weld on new ones. all they are is a section of "c" channel. consumable part in my book.
john
__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
If that is your drive in the background it looks similar to mine. That is why I am waiting to get the trailer home to check it all out and take some measurements.
nope that is the view from across the street from my house, my driveway is similar except that it is gravel between the houses.
before you go get a set of rollers think about getting a plain hitch for your tow vehicle with a 2 5/16 ball on it. if you get one with an inch or two of extra drop in it you may be able to get your trailer out of the driveway with it and then change to your "over the road hitch".
i picked one up from our local farm store for about 30 bucks and use it for parking the trailer. when i get out to the street i switch to my reese and put on the bars.
obviously having as little weight in the trailer as possible when you go out the drive helps too!
john
__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
Is it absolutely necessary to use a weight distribution hitch for Airstreams? I have one so it is no big deal. What height is the ball at from the ground on your hitch.
Trailer makes it up and down the drive with now problems so I will not install any rollers. The Weight distribution hitch makes the truck ride much better. The trailer rides fine without it but with it there is a significant difference.
krazyjohnny, you will find in your travels there are times that your trailer will drag. all driveways are not the same, some up some down.
would you rather drag your trailers tail or roll it nice and easy. camping world
sales them in a few different sizes. and they will not harm your trailer.
krazyjohnny, you will find in your travels there are times that your trailer will drag. all driveways are not the same, some up some down.
would you rather drag your trailers tail or roll it nice and easy. camping world
sales them in a few different sizes. and they will not harm your trailer.
Use rollers and you are guaranteed to ruin the two rear quarter panels, like hundreds of people already have.
Rock60, I can show you a severely damaged AVION trailer with rear end separation that used to have skid wheels on it. Seldom do you see Avions with this separation, but when the frame is improperly stressed and not sealed properly, anything can and will happen.
By using rollers attached to the rear of yor AS, you are "artificially" supporting the rear while damaging the the structural integrity of the panels. It is similar to a runner using drugs to increase performance, he may go faster, but there will be a physical price to pay.
Quick Links
Linear Mode
