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Old 07-23-2017, 08:34 AM   #1
Rivet Master
 
2017 19' International
Tallahassee , Florida
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Breakaway Switch — How to Hook Up the Wire?

I'm not sure I correctly connected the wire that pulls the breakaway switch for the trailer brakes.

The owner's manual for my 2016 Bambi provides no guidance.

Can anyone please advise how the wire should be connected to the hitch?

Thanks for any how-to. Want to be sure to have this set up the right way.
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Old 07-23-2017, 08:46 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhereStream View Post
I'm not sure I correctly connected the wire that pulls the breakaway switch for the trailer brakes.

The owner's manual for my 2016 Bambi provides no guidance.

Can anyone please advise how the wire should be connected to the hitch?

Thanks for any how-to. Want to be sure to have this set up the right way.
Most people will tell you not to hook it to the hitch in case the hitch is the point of failure. If the hitch fails then the breakaway cable would go with it.

Anywhere on the back of the TV that is solid is fine. There are the transport tie down loops on back corners of cars, you could put it there. Make sure the cable can't flail around in the wind and damage your bumper (like mine did). You can use a tie-wrap plastic cable to take up slack. If there's an emergency the tie-wrap will break and the cable will engage. (works for tow chains too, to take up the excess slack)
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Old 07-23-2017, 08:48 AM   #3
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You can out it through the same hole as one of your safety chains. Use a carabiner to make it simple.
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Old 07-23-2017, 08:51 AM   #4
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Many believe cable should be attached to frame of TV not hitch. In case there is a hitch failure. Others believe cable should be just a little shorter than safety chains. So if trailer becomes uncoupled, the brakes will be applied as the safety chains start to "catch" trailer. I personally don't agree with this one. Using brake controller would be more controlled method of stopping trailer.
Do not wrap breakaway cable around or through chains.
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Old 07-23-2017, 08:57 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overloaded View Post
Many believe cable should be attached to frame of TV not hitch. In case there is a hitch failure. Others believe cable should be just a little shorter than safety chains. So if trailer becomes uncoupled, the brakes will be applied as the safety chains start to "catch" trailer. I personally don't agree with this one. Using brake controller would be more controlled method of stopping trailer.
Do not wrap breakaway cable around or through chains.
If umbilical
cord becomes detached controller is useless that is why separate breakaway swt. is required.
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Old 07-23-2017, 09:10 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by featherbedder View Post
If umbilical
cord becomes detached controller is useless that is why separate breakaway swt. is required.
If your trailer is still attached by the safety chains and breakaway switch becomes activated. It will be a violent uncontrolled stop. If wheels lock up it will become even more dangerous. I have experienced this on a landscaping trailer when ball broke off.
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Old 07-23-2017, 10:45 AM   #7
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Do not wrap breakaway cable around or through chains.
This is how I got it from the dealer ... wrapped through the chain links.
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Old 07-23-2017, 11:13 AM   #8
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This is how I got it from the dealer ... wrapped through the chain links.
"Stupid is as Stupid does"! Forest Gump
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Old 07-23-2017, 11:22 AM   #9
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The breakaway cable is just that, it shouldn't engage the brakes until the trailer has completely disengaged from the tow vehicle. It's a last ditch effort to stop it. You should cross your chains so if the TT comes loose (in theory) the tongue will drop onto the chains, allowing you to slow it to a stop.

Commercial trailers have their wheels set at an angle so if they become disengaged from the cab they will travel to the right side. That's why when you come up behind them you will see they are not exactly tracking true in their lane. Seems like all TTs should be this way too, but they aren't.

I don't wrap mine around the chains but I do hook the carabiner to the hitch. I tried the TV's hold down loop on the left rear and the wind whipped the wire rope around and just beat the daylights out of the rear bumper. I'll have to find another location.
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Old 07-23-2017, 11:29 AM   #10
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Depending on your TV, you can replace one of your bumper bolts with a nice stainless steel eye bolt.
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Old 07-23-2017, 11:31 AM   #11
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Break away cable

Many trucks (2012 Ram) have a place on the bumper designed to add a light duty hitch ball. I used that hole and added a galvanized eye bolt and nut with oversized washers. If you dont have this factory made hole you may want to drill a 3/8" or 1/2" hole and add an eyebolt. This is a good solution to connect your break away cable using a carabiner for easy on and off. It is my belief that trailer manufacturers dont address this in the owner manual because of potential liability.
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Old 07-23-2017, 11:38 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalMrT View Post
You can out it through the same hole as one of your safety chains. Use a carabiner to make it simple.
Yep. And if you're worried about the hitch coming loose from the frame...you've got the wrong TV.
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Old 07-23-2017, 12:18 PM   #13
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Not every hitch is factory installed, some are installed by owners. Others have been removed and reinstalled by bodyshops with bolts tightened to near death with impacts instead of torqued properly. I have even seen one homemade and welded to school bus frame that I would be afraid to hang a drawbar from let alone a trailer on it.
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Old 07-23-2017, 12:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overloaded View Post
If your trailer is still attached by the safety chains and breakaway switch becomes activated. It will be a violent uncontrolled stop. If wheels lock up it will become even more dangerous. I have experienced this on a landscaping trailer when ball broke off.
I also had skid steer trailer break loose at very busy intersection this was around 40 mph, if not for chains and break away swt. stopping trailer strait behind my truck and going into on coming traffic, almost 20,000 lbs of machine and trailer would have caused major wreck, so I would rather have tires lock up with sudden stop rather than maybe kill some body. I can live with sudden stop but not causing wreck, injuries and or death, also major expense of equipment
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Old 07-23-2017, 01:03 PM   #15
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How I did it. I carefully measured the supplied coated brake safety wire to each the safety chain points on the TV. I disconnected the actuator and cable. Cut off the cable and went to my local West Marine, using 1/8 stainless steel cable and crimps fabricated a custom fit safety wire, I use a "S-Biner" from Home Depot to snap onto the TV. Good luck.
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Old 07-23-2017, 01:05 PM   #16
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And don't attach it too far outboard. I did once when I was extremely tired and hot. Sharp turn at low speed and the beast locked up tighter than whatever metaphor you wish. At least I know it works. ��
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Old 07-23-2017, 01:29 PM   #17
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I replaced one of the screws on my license plate with an eyebolt and hook the trailer brake switch to that. Most campers who notice it think it's a great idea.
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Old 07-23-2017, 02:05 PM   #18
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Put a simple i bolt close to the ball and attach the break away cable to the eye bolt. Attempted to add a pic but can't figure out how to do that.
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Old 07-23-2017, 02:51 PM   #19
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This has been something I've struggled with for years. I'd love to get a definitive response from someone in the business. I agree it is simply glossed over by dealers. I wonder if they really know. You
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Old 07-23-2017, 03:25 PM   #20
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It is not clear to me when this safety device is designed to kick in.

Is it if the trailer slips off the hitch ball, but the chains are holding the trailer to the tow rig?

Or is it if everything goes wrong, and the trailer is off the hitch and the chains are broken or disconnected?
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