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Old 07-11-2019, 08:53 PM   #1
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Blue ox sway pro settings

Hi Gurus

I got a new truck, a 2019 F250. I got a new 9 hole hitch shank for 3/4 ton trucks. I got the ball on the lowest setting and the chain on the 8th from the top.

The trailer looks a little tilted up at the hitch. Should I go to the 9th chain link or 7th to try to improve the levelness?

Picture is attached.

Alan
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:40 PM   #2
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Trailer looks level to me
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:57 PM   #3
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A 23 and an F250 ..... is eighth from the top the same as eight from the loose end of the chain or eight from the u-bolt. One is tight the other is somewhat loose.

For an F250, you likely don't need to transfer much weight. However to answer your question tighter should lift the back and looser should allow it to drop a bit. If you are high at the tongue, you would loosen the chains.

The BOSP does not have independent weight transfer and sway control adjustment. So backing off on the weight shift will reduce your sway control preload.

You have to have 2" of bend/deflection in the spring bars. Less than that degrades your sway control.

The F250 is stiff enough that less weight shift (less stiff hitch) will give the AS a better ride. A stiffer hitch will transfer more shock to the trailer.

A trip to the CAT scale will give to a baseline to work out your tune. Get the weight for both trailer axles separately. That helps to identify too much or too little weight shift.

There is a bit of info in the BO threads that may help.

That does not answer your question, but may help you work in the right direction. Level is important and is linked to other parameters as well.

You may find that the BO is perfect, and may alternatively find that you need independent sway and weight distribution adjustment.

First, go to flat level ground and measure front and rear trailer frame. How much out of level are you? Pat
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:22 PM   #4
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Yeah I think I am being a little paranoid with an inch or two but glad someone else saw this was level!
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:25 PM   #5
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By the way this is 8 from the loose end. I can't really tell if it's over tight or not.

I think I am about 1 inch higher on the tongue but I could be paranoid.

I really just didn't know what 7, 8,9 links from the end (loose end) does.
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:49 PM   #6
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The fewer the links from the end, the less weight transfer and the less sway control. So 7 from the end is light, 8 is light end of normal, 9 is on the tight side, and 10 is heavy duty approaching the need for heavier bars. Which bars do you have? 500s, 750s, or 1000s?

Look at your bars from the side. How much deflection/bend in the bars do you have?

Measure from ground to frame in front and back to verify level. The eye can be deceiving. Use a long construction level to check the floor from the inside and then check that against the surface on which you are parked. That will give you another reference.

The issue with level is that high tongue puts weight on back coach axle. Low on the tongue puts extra weight on the front coach axle. That is why you want level.

The other agenda is to balance the TV axle loading. The vehicle manual should provide guidance on that issue.

Pat
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Old 07-11-2019, 11:49 PM   #7
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I have 750lbs bars.

I will measure the bends but I think the are pretty good.

I will take measurements tomorrow!

Thanks so much!
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Old 07-12-2019, 03:46 AM   #8
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By the way this is 8 from the loose end. I can't really tell if it's over tight or not.
.
8 links from the loose end is the recommended setting for sway control. If you need more, put it in the 9th link from the end. Less sway control would be 7 from the end. Less than 7 links from the end is not recommended.
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:10 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alreddawg19 View Post
Hi Gurus

I got a new truck, a 2019 F250. I got a new 9 hole hitch shank for 3/4 ton trucks. I got the ball on the lowest setting and the chain on the 8th from the top.

The trailer looks a little tilted up at the hitch. Should I go to the 9th chain link or 7th to try to improve the levelness?

Picture is attached.

Alan

All I can offer is what we have gone through w/our 2017 Classic and 3500 RAM, setting up our Blue Ox. Both the 7 and 9 hole shank at bottom hole setting was not enough to put top of ball level and w/Classic interior top of receiver. We had to step down to a 2" 11 hole shank to be on same level plain. We have tried 7 and 8 loose end of chain. 8 works best. The newer 250's and 3500's sit high. Currently Blue Ox does not make a 2-1/2" shank for 9 or 11 hole shank.


Safe travels and best regards
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Old 07-12-2019, 11:05 AM   #10
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I squinted st your photo for a long time and I think it looks fine.
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Old 07-12-2019, 11:54 AM   #11
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I have 750lbs bars. -- snip -- Thanks so much!
The 750s should be about right for that trailer. It's what we use, so Tom Clancy says you are very intelligent.

Suspect if your tongue is high, it's not the hitch spring bar preload that is lifting it, but rather the shank not having enough drop. Other mfg's make shanks, but it may take a custom to meet your needs. Those 2.5 hitches do not have the wide range of shank availability to meet all requirements.

The weight on your axles is the test. After your measurements, weigh all axles separately at a CAT scale or similar. Same on front and rear trailer axle = no concern. Heavy load on rear trailer axle = a possible problem. Either you are loaded too heavy in back of the trailer or the weight distribution may be excessive. I don't think that is the issue, but you should check. More data gives you better direction for your decisions. Your TV axle weights should conform to the OEM recommendations.

Do not assume all is right. Testing is the final step.

You are welcome. Pat
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Old 07-12-2019, 01:09 PM   #12
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Regarding Blue Ox leveling. I've got the Sway Pro 1000 with lb bars. My trailer and truck appear to be level with either 7 or 8 links hanging loose. My issue is with releasing the tension when I'm ready to disconnect the trailer from the hitch. Due to the amount of tension, I've had that wrench come out of my hands in what I would call a dangerous way. What am I doing wrong? The local Airstream dealer encouraged me to extend my tongue jack to ease the tension, but it still scares me to release this thing.
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Old 07-12-2019, 01:55 PM   #13
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You are correct to be concerned. Take that OEM wrench and throw it into the scrap bin. Go to Harbor Freight or similar and buy a long breaker bar (18-24") and 1" six point socket. Use that to improve your control when you rotate the chain locks either up or down. Still appropriate to keep your body out of the path the breaker bar would take if your grip slipped.

Use your tongue jack to lift the tongue and truck up to release the spring bar preload force and reduce the energy release hazard. Other types of hitches require this approach as well.

Spend some time reading the BO threads. The info there helps new users. There are about five long threads and a bunch of short ones. Pat
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Old 07-12-2019, 03:54 PM   #14
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Blue Ox Tension Release

Quote:
Originally Posted by PKI View Post
You are correct to be concerned. Take that OEM wrench and throw it into the scrap bin. Go to Harbor Freight or similar and buy a long breaker bar (18-24") and 1" six point socket. Use that to improve your control when you rotate the chain locks either up or down. Still appropriate to keep your body out of the path the breaker bar would take if your grip slipped.

Use your tongue jack to lift the tongue and truck up to release the spring bar preload force and reduce the energy release hazard. Other types of hitches require this approach as well.

Spend some time reading the BO threads. The info there helps new users. There are about five long threads and a bunch of short ones. Pat
Pat thanks for much for your experienced guidance!!
Idaho RV AKA David
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