Best Anti-Sway Tow Hitch

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

If it pulls as straight, as true, and as pleasingly predictable as a projection hitch at any speed, making the combination a pleasure to drive, then it would be better.

But does it do these things?

The problem is - how does one objectively know? I bought a ProPride day one - have never towed with anything else - you can see previous posts of mine that describe my reason for that decision which I won't re-hash here. But how do I know? I know whatever I think I know about the different approach of the Hensley's and any other type of hitch. But unless I tested my current set up with 10 specific scenarios and then removed the PP and went with an XYZ and replicated the same exact 10 scenarios - I am somewhat taking this on faith am I not?

I'm good with my decisions. [emoji3]

[85MH325]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Best?
If I own a used Equalizer hitch that I paid $150 for on CL, and someone pays $3000 for a high end hitch, and neither of us has any sway, then isn't mine best?

Frankly, IF your towed load is properly balance for your trailer, you have the right proportion of weight on the hitch, and both your trailer suspension and your vehicle suspension are up to snuff, you'll never really need an anti-sway hitch. They're just insurance.

However, people who tow trailers don't understand the dynamics of trailer sway, how it's initiated and why, so they spend big bucks on hitches, not for insurance, but to insure that they don't have to be bothered with the consequences of not properly maintaining their equipment, or having the trailer loaded properly.

Now, that said, I towed a 34' tri-axle, two door Airstream with a Y2K Ford Excursion, and ended up having to do a fair amount of suspension mods to the Ford to make it a decent tow vehicle as Ford's engineering was screwed up from the factory.

THEN, Bigfoot Industries introduced the 17.5' trailer in 2005 and had the axle placed too far forward for the weight in the increased-sized fresh water tank. That unloaded the hitch weight big-time and caused folks ALL kinds of grief with sway problems. The factory solution was to weld an additional 300 lbs of metal plates to the tongue. So there ARE problems that are factory-built into vehicles and trailers. Fortunately, as far as I know, Airstream has never built a trailer that had a sway problem inherent in its design.

So there ARE good reasons to have sway control hitches, but the best way remains having your trailer load balanced, and keep your top speed under that at which sway commences for your combination of trailer and tow vehicle.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

The problem is - how does one objectively know? I bought a ProPride day one - have never towed with anything else - you can see previous posts of mine that describe my reason for that decision which I won't re-hash here. But how do I know? I know whatever I think I know about the different approach of the Hensley's and any other type of hitch. But unless I tested my current set up with 10 specific scenarios and then removed the PP and went with an XYZ and replicated the same exact 10 scenarios - I am somewhat taking this on faith am I not?

I'm good with my decisions. [emoji3]

Hi SSM,

Have you ever noticed with your PPP that when your on an exit or entrance ramp that the AS follows directly behind with very little 'bend at the ball"?,(what a great name for a rock band).

When folks ask me why I use a Hensley I just tell'em...."cuz it helps keep whats on my my ball in line."

Sweet Streams

Bob

[85MH325]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

The problem is - how does one objectively know? ... I am somewhat taking this on faith am I not?

I'm good with my decisions. [emoji3]

There really aren't any "bad" sway-control hitches out there, nor are there "better" hitches... only more expensive hitches. It really depends on what flaws you're trying to overcome in your tow rig combination.

For my last one, it was a short-wheelbase tow vehicle. For my 34' Tri-axle it was sloppy handling that turned out to be rear-axle steering with the Excursion because the spring stack wasn't strong enough to hold the body squarely over the axle while towing.

The best hitch for you is the one that works well for you.

See my post above.

[J. Morgan]

Originally Posted by 85MH325

Frankly, IF your towed load is properly balance for your trailer, you have the right proportion of weight on the hitch, and both your trailer suspension and your vehicle suspension are up to snuff, you'll never really need an anti-sway hitch. They're just insurance.



However, people who tow trailers don't understand the dynamics of trailer sway, how it's initiated and why, so they spend big bucks on hitches, not for insurance, but to insure that they don't have to be bothered with the consequences of not properly maintaining their equipment, or having the trailer loaded properly.



Now, that said, I towed a 34' tri-axle, two door Airstream with a Y2K Ford Excursion, and ended up having to do a fair amount of suspension mods to the Ford to make it a decent tow vehicle as Ford's engineering was screwed up from the factory.



THEN, Bigfoot Industries introduced the 17.5' trailer in 2005 and had the axle placed too far forward for the weight in the increased-sized fresh water tank. That unloaded the hitch weight big-time and caused folks ALL kinds of grief with sway problems. The factory solution was to weld an additional 300 lbs of metal plates to the tongue. So there ARE problems that are factory-built into vehicles and trailers. Fortunately, as far as I know, Airstream has never built a trailer that had a sway problem inherent in its design.



So there ARE good reasons to have sway control hitches, but the best way remains having your trailer load balanced, and keep your top speed under that at which sway commences for your combination of trailer and tow vehicle.

On the ball both of my 31’ Airstreams were prone to sway at the slightest provocation above about 60 MPH, no matter how the load was adjusted, and even with no load at all.

With my premium hitch, my trailer can’t even be made to sway, even with no tow vehicle mods.

Trailer sway on my trailers is caused by the trailer, not the TV.

A ProPride or Hensley is not a patch, it is a fix.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by 85MH325

There really aren't any "bad" sway-control hitches out there, nor are there "better" hitches... only more expensive hitches. It really depends on what flaws you're trying to overcome in your tow rig combination.

For my last one, it was a short-wheelbase tow vehicle. For my 34' Tri-axle it was sloppy handling that turned out to be rear-axle steering with the Excursion because the spring stack wasn't strong enough to hold the body squarely over the axle while towing.

The best hitch for you is the one that works well for you.

See my post above.

Emphasis added. Exactly the real point. If it works for your setup, and works well, then it is the best--for your circumstance!

We can debate endlessly, but in the end, we own and live with our own decisions.

For me, the one-to-one comparison between what the AS came with (Husky Brand, WD bars, no real sway control) and ProPride (Flat-out locked out sway) leads me to conclude the ProPride (Hensley 'improved' design) was the way to go in the areas I travel in...and a 5,000 mile plus test run validated that decision.

[Profxd]

Originally Posted by 85MH325

Frankly, IF your towed load is properly balance for your trailer, you have the right proportion of weight on the hitch, and both your trailer suspension and your vehicle suspension are up to snuff, you'll never really need an anti-sway hitch. They're just insurance.

However, people who tow trailers don't understand the dynamics of trailer sway, how it's initiated and why, so they spend big bucks on hitches, not for insurance, but to insure that they don't have to be bothered with the consequences of not properly maintaining their equipment, or having the trailer loaded properly.

Now, that said, I towed a 34' tri-axle, two door Airstream with a Y2K Ford Excursion, and ended up having to do a fair amount of suspension mods to the Ford to make it a decent tow vehicle as Ford's engineering was screwed up from the factory.

THEN, Bigfoot Industries introduced the 17.5' trailer in 2005 and had the axle placed too far forward for the weight in the increased-sized fresh water tank. That unloaded the hitch weight big-time and caused folks ALL kinds of grief with sway problems. The factory solution was to weld an additional 300 lbs of metal plates to the tongue. So there ARE problems that are factory-built into vehicles and trailers. Fortunately, as far as I know, Airstream has never built a trailer that had a sway problem inherent in its design.

So there ARE good reasons to have sway control hitches, but the best way remains having your trailer load balanced, and keep your top speed under that at which sway commences for your combination of trailer and tow vehicle.

Thank you! As you noticed most just chose to ignore the root cause.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

The problem is - how does one objectively know?

The easy answer is: You tow with it.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to talk anyone into or out of buying either. Buy two if you like. The $3000 hitches are a marvel of engineering, I think.
But mine does the job as well.
$2850 in my pocket buys plenty of accessories that make my trip smoother also.

[J. Morgan]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

The easy answer is: You tow with it.

A person who knows what a stable combination feels like will know the difference between bad, good, and great.

[rmkrum]

I can easily tell the difference between a bad, not-so-good, good, and great towing experience. I just check my pulse rate and color of my knuckles to tell between not-so-good, good, and great.

Bad usually ends in a 'laundry problem' or bent aluminum...

[J. Morgan]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

I can easily tell the difference between a bad, not-so-good, good, and great towing experience. I just check my pulse rate and color of my knuckles to tell between not-so-good, good, and great.

Bad usually ends in a 'laundry problem' or bent aluminum...

A poor driving combination steals joy from the Airstream experience. I made two trips “on the ball” after finishing my trailer, at which point I bought a used Hensley, now I never even think about bow waves, cross winds, or downhill grades.

Folks, I am not saying that one of these hitches is for everyone, but I am saying that these two companies have earned a reputation for the most stable bumper tow hitches in the marketplace, and they deserve due recognition.

[85MH325]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

On the ball both of my 31’ Airstreams were prone to sway at the slightest provocation above about 60 MPH, no matter how the load was adjusted, and even with no load at all.

With my premium hitch, my trailer can’t even be made to sway, even with no tow vehicle mods.

Trailer sway on my trailers is caused by the trailer, not the TV.

A ProPride or Hensley is not a patch, it is a fix.

First, one of the things that has to be established is that "twitch" or a little wandering... or even being sucked over by trucks isn't "sway" although it's often misinterpreted as being the onset of a "sway event." An actual "sway event" is when the trailer moves on its own in a sine-wave pattern with a growing amplitude. Eventually, if nothing is done, the trailer ends up at a large enough angle to the tow vehicle that traction on the rear tires is broken, and the tow vehicle is pulled with the trailer

You're certainly entitled to your opinion, particularly after spending as much as you have for your hitch, but every trailer will sway at a certain speed; the key is keeping the speed of onset higher than the speed at which you travel.

I'm glad you've gotten your issues resolved, but how do you know it was the trailer(s) and not the TV?

[rmkrum]

In my case, the exact same load and TV was used over the exact same course (up and down the Cajon Pass in California on Interstate 15) Proper tongue load was verified with a Sherline gauge, BTW.

In the non-Hensley design hitch case the AS needed several hard applications of the trailer brake override to keep it in line on the downhill run. Although the front axle on the TV was properly loaded, and steering not being 'loose' the AS kept visibly swaying (before I hit the electric brakes) and it was a very nervous run. I got it down to about 45 MPH in the far right lane and kept it below that speed. Uphill was no issues.

With the ProPride system (Hensley design) the trailer tracked perfectly, no visible sway, and the downhill run was controlled and comfortable. There was NO need to do anything extra to keep the AS in line with the truck. The system works by mechanically preventing any sway, but allows normal maneuvers because of the trapezoidal linkage system.

On two trips across Texas, totaling over 5,000miles, the rig exhibited absolutely no sway. Yes, big rigs blowing by at 75 did give a slight push one way or the other when they passed, but they did NOT induce sway or result in any vestige of control loss. Stability on the road is what I was looking for, and this setup, properly adjusted for Weight Distribution works like I want it to. The Toyota Tacoma Crew Cab short bed V6 pickup TV stays planted, and responds only to steering inputs I make. The AS tracks, and stays where it should. Note that this stability persists, even after an accidental excursion well above the posted speed limit in West Texas. Hopefully the statute of limitations is past...

I'm confident that this experience validates my choice of hitch system, and I'm staying with it.

[85MH325]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

A person who knows what a stable combination feels like will know the difference between bad, good, and great.

You're absolutely right. I just prefer to find the root cause of the problem and fix it... then have the anti-sway hitch as insurance. Other folks choose to ignore why the combo is unstable, never fix the root causes, and buy a heavy, complex hitch instead to force it into stability. Both solutions work.

[85MH325]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

In my case, the exact same load and TV was used over the exact same course (up and down the Cajon Pass in California on Interstate 15)

In the non-Hensley design hitch case the AS needed several hard applications of the trailer brake override to keep it in line on the downhill run. Although the front axle on the TV was properly loaded, and steering not being 'loose' the AS kept visibly swaying (before I hit the electric brakes) and it was a very nervous run. I got it down to about 45 MPH in the far right lane and kept it below that speed. Uphill was no issues.

I'm confident that this experience validates my choice of hitch system, and I'm staying with it.

There is no "wrong" hitch selection. If it works for you, then it's the right hitch. Truthfully, though, there aren't any bad hitches either; there are only set-up problems, and it's been my experience that most dealerships are just as clueless about setting up a hitch as the new trailer owners are. They can bolt them on, but have NO idea what the physics are of how they work. Or don't work.

Cajon Pass is a delightful testing ground to see how well you're set up. From your description on your original down-hill run, and using a Tacoma as your tow vehicle, I'd likely have checked a number of things on your original hitch setup and your trailer loading. What you've described is the trailer pushing the tow vehicle around. Who did your original hitch set-up, and what kind of hitch was it?

[J. Morgan]

Up to 60 MPH they are both pretty stable, but after that any disturbance could set up a sway event when pulling on the ball.

Passing truck, slight down grade, crosswinds, etc.

Whether it started with a twitch, it didn’t matter, any movement was capable of setting up oscillations.

This was the same across three tow vehicles, and for my stock 5,000 lb trailer, or my modified 7,000 lb trailer. The trailers are set up for sway.

My key for fixing the problem was to buy a used Hensley on eBay... If every trailer sways at some speed, I haven’t gone that fast since I installed the Hensley.

One of the best $1,200 I ever spent.

(FWIW, none of the fifthwheel trailers I have pulled for hundreds of thousands of miles swayed)

[J. Morgan]

Originally Posted by 85MH325

You're absolutely right. I just prefer to find the root cause of the problem and fix it... then have the anti-sway hitch as insurance. Other folks choose to ignore why the combo is unstable, never fix the root causes, and buy a heavy, complex hitch instead to force it into stability. Both solutions work.

The root cause is the very long section of trailer behind the trailer axles which is subject to lateral oscillation.

[85MH325]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

Up to 60 MPH they are both pretty stable, but after that any disturbance could set up a sway event when pulling on the ball.

Passing truck, slight down grade, crosswinds, etc.

Whether it started with a twitch, it didn’t matter, any movement was capable of setting up oscillations.

"Twitches" and movement are certainly uncomfortable, but they're not a sway event, nor do they necessarily portend a sway event. They are certainly a nuisance and make towing uncomfortable.

On the other hand, when you've had a sway event, the discussion is about how you survived it, nothing else. I've had one. I had a 15' travel trailer jump the ball onto the safety chains, disconnect the pigtail and subsequently the brakes, and the trailer was oscillating side to side at almost a 60* angle to the rear of the tow vehicle. It was bouncing on the outboard wheel on each track across the back of the TV. Were it not for having a 1700lb trailer on a 7000 lb Excursion, I'm pretty sure it'd have rolled me.

The instability I experienced towing my 34' tri-axle behind the Excursion was NEVER anything close to a "sway episode." it was merely unstable and an uncomfortable tow until i got the rear suspension stabilized on the Excursion. After I figured out what needed to be addressed, it handled like a rocket sled on rails. All with the same Reese hitch.

I think that folks often confuse vagueness in handling and think that leads to 'trailer sway.'

[J. Morgan]

Originally Posted by 85MH325

"Twitches" and movement are certainly uncomfortable, but they're not a sway event, nor do they necessarily portend a sway event. They are certainly a nuisance and make towing uncomfortable.



On the other hand, when you've had a sway event, the discussion is about how you survived it, nothing else. I've had one. I had a 15' travel trailer jump the ball onto the safety chains, disconnect the pigtail and subsequently the brakes, and the trailer was oscillating side to side at almost a 60* angle to the rear of the tow vehicle. It was bouncing on the outboard wheel on each track across the back of the TV. Were it not for having a 1700lb trailer on a 7000 lb Excursion, I'm pretty sure it'd have rolled me.



The instability I experienced towing my 34' tri-axle behind the Excursion was NEVER anything close to a "sway episode." it was merely unstable and an uncomfortable tow until i got the rear suspension stabilized on the Excursion. After I figured out what needed to be addressed, it handled like a rocket sled on rails. All with the same Reese hitch.



I think that folks often confuse vagueness in handling and think that leads to 'trailer sway.'

Twitches and movements are something I wouldn’t worry about much.

Sway, (or even the threat of sway) on the other hand is an out of control condition that I’m not really willing to tolerate for very long.

I can and often do drive my combination with one hand on the wheel at posted speed limits now. Sway, twitches, and movements, are no longer a part of my Airstream experience at all.

Straight as an arrow, like it’s on rails.

(I know exactly what trailer sway is)

En route from Las Cruces, NM to Benton, AR and found myself with a truck on my left and another on my right on I-20 south of Dallas, down a minor grade, and things got loose and crazy.

I stayed in my lane and recovered by staying cool.

Before I left on another trip, the Hensley was in place. No more dancing around an inherent vice.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by 85MH325

There is no "wrong" hitch selection. If it works for you, then it's the right hitch. Truthfully, though, there aren't any bad hitches either; there are only set-up problems, and it's been my experience that most dealerships are just as clueless about setting up a hitch as the new trailer owners are. They can bolt them on, but have NO idea what the physics are of how they work. Or don't work.

Cajon Pass is a delightful testing ground to see how well you're set up. From your description on your original down-hill run, and using a Tacoma as your tow vehicle, I'd likely have checked a number of things on your original hitch setup and your trailer loading. What you've described is the trailer pushing the tow vehicle around. Who did your original hitch set-up, and what kind of hitch was it?

Cajon Pass, or the Grapevine are two of my favorite trailer sway-inducing areas in SoCal area. There is a long downhill north of Lake Shasta that is 'interesting' even without a trailer in tow...

I did verify that I had 10-15%+ of the load on the tongue with a Sherline scale, and the original Husky WD-only setup was rigged by the dealer that my son bought the AS from when he got it. My TV and His TV (at the time) were identically set up Toyota Tacomas with serial numbers only a couple hundred apart. Was set up and rigged as denoted in his checklist, with nearly the same load as he set it up with, minus a bag of clothing from the closet. Empty tanks on both runs.

The first run down the Cajon Pass was upsetting, to put it mildly. I was ready for it to be interesting, and it was, unfortunately. THe P3 brake controller manual lever got a workout on the downhill until I could get the threatened sway (not wobble, not twitchiness, REAL full-blown initial sway events). I knew better that to hit TV brakes--that would have made it worse. AS brakes to get it in line while getting on throttle was only way to stop the movement.

With ProPride, it flat does not even start to sway--it flat can't unless something breaks. I installed the ProPride system and set it up myself. Adjusted WD to get front axle properly planted--if it's not the rig porpoises on the flat, and you adjust that out. After that, zero issues on the downhill run. Priceless...