Bar weight and sway control

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

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As has been noted you want the lowest rated bars that will move the needed weight. ��

Unfortunately you need to pretty much guess that number when you buy your hitch. Some folks use TW, but remember, you never have to move all of that number, only a portion of it depending on load.
We have a 1200lb TW. When we started with the Hensley PPP it was recommended we get 1400lb bars.
After a few trips to the scales we found that we had to move between 720-760lb depending on AS loading.
We dropped to 1000lb bars. Replaced the OEM receiver with one that had better frame mounting giving it more purchase/leverage which also improved weight transfer.
A soft connection between TV & AS improves comfort, drivability and saves the AS from unneeded stress damage.

Bob
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Bob- guess I disagree here....TW is important and using the recommended spring loading bars also seems important, despite your feelings. (No offense intended.) I also have some experience towing with different WDH's and being happy with my 3rd BO SwayPro now pulling my 28' FC. The TW was 1100 when I picked her up and had her weighed; AS tried to tell me 1000lb bars would work, but they guessed my TW was under 1000lbs...after several discussions with the Mfg., Blue Ox being consistent with their recommendations for my TW, I went with their recommendation of 1500lb bars. I had some proposing in the beginning while driving from Oregon dealer to my place in MT. When I discussed with BO, they recommended tightening the chain another notch, which I did. No issues now after almost 2 years and 20K miles; the AS rides very nice and never any sway. Also, as I mentioned in other posts, the GY Endurance tires need to be included in this equation; proper pressure for the loading recommended will also give you a better ride.

I know there are other "opinions" out there, but this being my 4th AS after pulling 3 different 25' AS's over the past 15 years, with 3 different model WDH's, I too believe I know a thing or two...(like Alstate...LOL) Of course, your mileage may vary...just follow the MFG recommendations for your weights and should work out...depending on which WDH you decide to use.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Bob- guess I disagree here....TW is important and using the recommended spring loading bars also seems important, despite your feelings. (No offense intended.) I also have some experience towing with different WDH's and being happy with my 3rd BO SwayPro now pulling my 28' FC. The TW was 1100 when I picked her up and had her weighed; AS tried to tell me 1000lb bars would work, but they guessed my TW was under 1000lbs...after several discussions with the Mfg., Blue Ox being consistent with their recommendations for my TW, I went with their recommendation of 1500lb bars. I had some proposing in the beginning while driving from Oregon dealer to my place in MT. When I discussed with BO, they recommended tightening the chain another notch, which I did. No issues now after almost 2 years and 20K miles; the AS rides very nice and never any sway. Also, as I mentioned in other posts, the GY Endurance tires need to be included in this equation; proper pressure for the loading recommended will also give you a better ride.

I know there are other "opinions" out there, but this being my 4th AS after pulling 3 different 25' AS's over the past 15 years, with 3 different model WDH's, I too believe I know a thing or two...(like Alstate...LOL) Of course, your mileage may vary...just follow the MFG recommendations for your weights and should work out...depending on which WDH you decide to use.

My 31 year old "Opinion"...

OK... then what is the point of my using 1400lb bars to move 720-780lb?
Our TW has no relevance to the weight being moved.
Seems to me the closer the bar is rated to the actual weight to be moved the better.
Soft ride less chance of AS damage.

Could it be that it's the design of your hitch that requires the stiffer bars?
Over engineered and poorly designed? 😂

Porpoising has more to do with harmonic oscillation from the road surface than the WD setting.
It may dip bounce that was the problem, stiffer bars would limit the bounce and increase shock to the AS.
But what do I know? 🤔
I'm just an anknictdotal bucklenuster. 😂

Bob
🇺🇸

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

My 31 year old "Opinion"...

OK... then what is the point of my using 1400lb bars to move 720-780lb?
Our TW has no relevance to the weight being moved.
Seems to me the closer the bar is rated to the actual weight to be moved the better.
Soft ride less chance of AS damage.

Could it be that it's the design of your hitch that requires the stiffer bars?
Over engineered and poorly designed? ��

Porpoising has more to do with harmonic oscillation from the road surface than the WD setting.
It may dip bounce that was the problem, stiffer bars would limit the bounce and increase shock to the AS.
But what do I know? ��
I'm just an anknictdotal bucklenuster. ��

Bob
����

Ok; I'll bite...porpoising can be caused from a few different things, (or combination) including poor weight distribution/loading, bad shocks, and also could be bad set up with the WDH system....just saying. The BO system uses the "spring" loaded bars to help dampen/control the load of the TT and transfer the tongue weight back to the front of the TV for better control, right?? I'm not sure why you would mention #1400 bars and the load of 720-780lbs?? For BO, they offer 1000# bars and recommend if your above that TW, to move up to the next size bars; #1500 is what I use. They were stiff in the beginning but as I say, this system employs a "spring" effect with these bars which helps control sway, dampen load, and transmit weight back to the front of the TV...might not be same method for other bar systems folks are using... I only know after studying this system over the years and using it on the last 3 TT's, it works fine.

Important to consider the Mfg. recommended tire pressure also for the load of your AS...for a smoother ride...