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Old 12-14-2014, 04:21 PM   #1
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Backing up a hill

We are presently engaged in an attempt to buy a new home. Everything about it is near perfect as far as the things we are looking for are concerned. However both the main driveway to the home and the driveway to the RV Parking area are both fairly steep. I am sure that we could not back our 31 foot long trailer up either driveway are things are now. I an fairly sure that completely loosening the WD on our ProPride hitch will not be enough to solve the problem. There is definitely a RV parking place at the top of the hill so something has made it up there before. Although we currently store our trailer while not using it, at least we can bring it home to load and unload it. If we don't find a solution to this problem we will have to find a new trailer. The trailer solution would be one with higher rear end ground clearance and/or shorter distance between the rear low spot and the rear trailer tires.

I am interested in any ideas anyone may have. Presently the trailer is in Colorado and the home is in Washington state. So at the present, trial and error is not possible. If we're are going to end up selling the Airstream, I would prefer to sell it here in Colorado, because it is somewhat centrally located. I also am interested in ideas for measurements that can be made on the hills to determine what I really might need to find in the way of a trailer.
The pictures are:
View from bottom of RV parking driveway.
Near the top of RV Parking driveway
Looking down the Main driveway.
Looking down the RV driveway

Ken

P.S. The blue building is not the house, but the house is blue too.
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:16 PM   #2
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Have you considered the possibility/cost of restructuring the driveway(s) to match your trailer?
Just a thought.
Sam
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:21 PM   #3
Don't forget your cat nap
 
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Originally Posted by samb View Post
Have you considered the possibility/cost of restructuring the driveway(s) to match your trailer?
Just a thought.
Sam
Thanks Sam,

We thought about that, but I think we might have to cut back so far it would interfere with the parking. That has not been totally ruled out yet though.

Ken
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:28 PM   #4
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I agree with 'samb'. It might be cheaper than getting a new AS and provide a better access and pad outside (larger) your garage to move your driveway access up the hill to be level with your garage, build a retaining wall where your present driveway access is now and thus increase the area outside your garage at the same time.
I have tractor - will be over in the morning - have coffee ready!!
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:34 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Silver Hawk View Post
I agree with 'samb'. It might be cheaper than getting a new AS and provide a better access and pad outside (larger) your garage to move your driveway access up the hill to be level with your garage, build a retaining wall where your present driveway access is now and thus increase the area outside your garage at the same time.
I have tractor - will be over in the morning - have coffee ready!!
By moving the access up the hill , do you mean moving the driveway entrance up the hill on the road?

I wonder if I could do that with a Bobcat. I've always wanted one.

Ken
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:43 PM   #6
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What samb and Silver Hawk said. Don't have a lot of perspective but it seems that you could cut a new access from further up to the right of the first picture. Choice #2 is to trade me your 31' Classic for a SOB with the axle flopped over - even trade
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:44 PM   #7
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You should consider a "trailer Tug". There are quite a few companies that have trailer tugs, electric or gas. No backing up that drive way, pull in, block and unhook, then use the "trailer-tug" to turn and maneuver the trailer into the parking space. Even the more expensive versions are far less expensive than restructuring the driveway or selling the Airstream. The Trailer Tug Pro can handle a 14,000lb trailer with a 1500lb young weight as an example, and can turn a trailer in its own length!! Google "trailer tug" to start you search.
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:46 PM   #8
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Very pretty place. I can not judge the slopes from the picture. I would want to be positive it would not work before I got rid of the trailer. Unless you really want a shorter or different trailer anyway. From the picture I would guess that the trailer might go up it. Another issue might be traffic on the street you would be backing from. One measurement you could make would be basically the slope of the driveway in the first few feet where it enters the road. This measurment compared with the overhang of the trailer should tell you if it will hit at the back. Can you take the weight bars completely off a Pro Pride?
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:48 PM   #9
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For what it's worth, I would first pursue the "trial & error" approach to see just how much of change might be needed to the driveway to accommodate your trailer on that site. Unless you already plan to get rid of this trailer for another reason unrelated to this particular challenge, the cost/hassle of selling and then purchasing a replacement trailer/RV might be more of an issue than whatever "advantage" selling it while you are still in Colorado might bring. Make some standby alternative storage arrangements near the new home to take the pressure off a "quick pre-move sale" so you can take your time and figure this out with a cool and fully informed head!
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Old 12-14-2014, 06:02 PM   #10
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Find a different house.

Or, find covered storage for the trailer. It's fitting that the pix you posted showed wet pavement, which is the prevailing condition here in the NW. If you park it outside, mushrooms will start to grow in the carpeting right away.

Seriously, all trailers leak, and yours will too if you keep it outdoors in our lovely climate.
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Old 12-14-2014, 06:16 PM   #11
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Here are a few options:

1. Get a front hitch and back it up the driveway while you drive forward and can see what you are doing. You'll be able to maneuver the trailer better. If the Pro Pride does not have a standard ball, this may not work.

2. Drive up there and back down. This may run into problems if you live on a busy street.

3. Drive up there and use a front hitch to turn it around.

4. There are motorized dollies to move trailers. They are not tugs and cost a lot less. But they may not have the power to make the hill, though it could be used to turn it around. I wouldn't be sure I'd want to come down with one except very slowly. Here's a link: Parkit360 Power Dolly Looks like it costs about $1,500 and can move a 5th wheel. It can engage the trailer brakes too.

5. Buy an ox and use it to move the trailer. It will keep the grass short too.

6. Buy a crane.

7. Put in a turntable to turn the trailer around. You could get rid of the blue building and build a roundhouse and paint it blue.

8. Cats are very strong for their size—your 3 cats may be able to handle it.

Gene
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Old 12-14-2014, 06:17 PM   #12
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Buy yourself a Ford 8N tractor (made from 1947 to 1953), hitch on, and tow it up there. Leave the tractor attached. When you want to go on a trip, back it down into the street, and hitch onto the truck.




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Old 12-14-2014, 06:39 PM   #13
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Buy yourself a Ford 8N tractor (made from 1947 to 1953), hitch on, and tow it up there. Leave the tractor attached. When you want to go on a trip, back it down into the street, and hitch onto the truck.




Lynn
Sweet!
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Old 12-14-2014, 06:56 PM   #14
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Suggestion, before selling your trailer or starting expensive remodeling try backing the trailer in. Who knows, it might actually not be as difficult as you are making yourself believe.
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