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Old 12-15-2014, 01:37 PM   #29
BAB
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I know this won't be a comfort to you, but I have a steeper slope (from looking at your picture) that I successfully navigated with my 2012 28' Intl CCD, and will soon navigate with a 2015 30' Classic. My challenge is even tougher as the shed it fits into is 11' wide (post to post), and the trailer is 8 and a half. The secret is PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. I did this in an empty parking lot using traffic cones to back between. It's also about taking all the time you need, getting out and checking, and being focused. It's nice if you have someone else as a ground guide, but most of the time I didn't. If (by chance) the slope caused you to bottom, I'd use some 2x6's in the right place to give you the lift you need.
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Old 12-15-2014, 01:38 PM   #30
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a six inch drop hitch inserted into your receiver instead of your on the road hitch , would give you several more inches of height at the rear of your trailer , could be enough to get it backed in without seriously dragging the tail on the concrete.
and an old house trailer mover trick is to crib up the low space of your drive with 2x6 or even landscape timbers laid parallel so that the trailer tires are elevated above the road surface allowing for event free egress or ingress . if your truck is a 4x4 you could leave them in place and not spin them out from under you while backing in .
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Old 12-15-2014, 01:44 PM   #31
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I have a 30 foot Classic and I didn't have any problem backing up a hill that was steeper then this. My friends have a 34 foot Limited and backed up the same driveway without any problem. The owner of the driveway has a 40 foot 5th wheel and, again, no problem. Slow and easy. watch for tail dragging. We have Hensley hitched on our Streams.
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Old 12-15-2014, 01:59 PM   #32
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I have a 30 foot Classic and I didn't have any problem backing up a hill that was steeper then this. My friends have a 34 foot Limited and backed up the same driveway without any problem. The owner of the driveway has a 40 foot 5th wheel and, again, no problem. Slow and easy. watch for tail dragging. We have Hensley hitched on our Streams.
Thanks,
I have a ProPride. Do you take the tension off your weight distribution bars before you backup the hill? It seems to me that the lowering of the front of the trailer would help. As I look at our hitch, it seems to me that raising of the the rear of the trailer when the wheels start up the hill is going to actually put more force on the WD bars.

Ken
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Old 12-15-2014, 02:32 PM   #33
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Should be a piece of cake with a front receiver hitch on your 2500... otherwise, backing would seem to be a very stressful situation. We also live on a hill with a compound angle driveway. We use either a front receiver hitch on the pickup or the one on our Jeep Wrangler.

The weight on your front end (make sure the front receiver hitch is reinforced to handle the load * as well as the front suspension on our Wrangler) will cause the suspension to compress and -at least in our case- allow easy transition from the road and up the driveway.
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Old 12-15-2014, 03:09 PM   #34
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I bought a foot for my tongue jack with a wheel on it from HF. Rated for 1000#. I use it to avoid overloading the front suspension/hitch when maneuvering my 25 through a tight right angle turn into its spot in my driveway. I back in, then when unhitching, I replace the existing foot with the one with the wheel. I turn the truck around, hitch up, and park the trailer. Before I unhitch I put the original foot on the jack.

This approach may create more problems for you with the dip and crest of your driveway, but just thought I'd put it out there. The trailer did pop off the ball one time but I don't think it was properly latched, and I think I had the jack up too high, actually trying to lift the truck. Since I have paid more attention to the process, no problems.

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Old 12-15-2014, 03:13 PM   #35
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buy yourself a ford 8n tractor (made from 1947 to 1953), hitch on, and tow it up there. Leave the tractor attached. When you want to go on a trip, back it down into the street, and hitch onto the truck.




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this!
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Old 12-15-2014, 03:50 PM   #36
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Here is a couple pictures that give a better idea of the slopes.





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Old 12-15-2014, 04:08 PM   #37
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I had a 8N, 9N,, and a 2N Fordson,, and would not dare dropping our 27 foot A$ hitch onto the 3 point hitch and try to pull it up any hill.. Unless you have a heck of a lot of basket weight on the front.. The other problem is the lack of real brakes any Fordson I owned.. Could get scary real fast.. MHO.. Sodbust
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Old 12-15-2014, 05:44 PM   #38
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Looking at the photos, the grade doesn't look too bad. But backing from that road might be a challenge. You'd have to be in the left lane to gain a little help from the way the driveway is angled in photo #1 and your view on the right side (oncoming traffic) would be blocked by the turning trailer.

If the drive to the house (photo #2) connects to the parking area in #1, you could drive forward to the front of the garage under the house and then back all the way to the parking area. But the two walls in #2 may make the turn to the left when backing difficult. The grade to the house driveway looks like a lot less than the drive in #1. I guess the cnnecting drive ascends to what we see in #1.

It is pretty unusual to have 2 driveway cuts on a public road, but the drives are different in the photos, so I guess you have 2 entry points and that makes more options. You could drop the trailer between the drives on what looks like a drive between the 2 driveways in the photos. But that looks like a hill and you'd want to move the trailer to a level place.

Perhaps blueprints would help.

Now about the house—the two tone blue is nice, but I never have seen a Victorian styled house with much blue. You can paint the 2nd floor siding different colors for each course. And get carriage house garage doors since the first thing we see is the doors. We have the same cheap looking doors and our garage is the first thing you see when you pull up to the house too. I want fake carriage house doors (really overhead doors in steel and not wood, but they look ok) but Barb says they don't fit the house. If we never agree, we save money and paint the existing doors. But I would paint them the trim color (terracotta) and Barb would paint them light tan. We're going to save on paint too.

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Old 12-15-2014, 08:02 PM   #39
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It's easy to get "psyched out", and it appears somewhat daunting, but with a person spotting for you in the blind spots, I would think you could get it in where you want it in less than 3 minutes. Really. Do you have any friends in the National Guard? You could sling it and fly it.....
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:09 PM   #40
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It's easy to get "psyched out", and it appears somewhat daunting, but with a person spotting for you in the blind spots, I would think you could get it in where you want it in less than 3 minutes. Really. Do you have any friends in the National Guard? You could sling it and fly it.....
No, but it's less than a block from Puget Sound and Bremerton Naval Ship Yard is not far away. Maybe I could borrow one of their cranes on a barge. I'm sure if I tell them I'm a veteran, it will be no problem.

My wife thinks I don't do well at the backing, and I'm sure she gives lousy guidance, So she does the backing of the trailer, while I keep her from running into stuff.

Ken
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Old 12-15-2014, 11:39 PM   #41
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I didnt read all of the posts, but here are my observations anyway;

A. The drive does not look prohibitively steep in my view of the pics.

B. It is a relatively cheap and easy project to raise an Airstream 2" by using commercially available blocks that bolt between the frame and axle mounts of your trailer.

Last I looked they were running about $200 for a double axle trailer kit.


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Old 12-15-2014, 11:59 PM   #42
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If you have a pick up truck you can always add a hitch to the front end that way you would be actually driving forward. Many people do that to get into tight spots.
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