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Old 12-15-2014, 10:39 PM   #41
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I didnt read all of the posts, but here are my observations anyway;

A. The drive does not look prohibitively steep in my view of the pics.

B. It is a relatively cheap and easy project to raise an Airstream 2" by using commercially available blocks that bolt between the frame and axle mounts of your trailer.

Last I looked they were running about $200 for a double axle trailer kit.


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Old 12-15-2014, 10:59 PM   #42
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If you have a pick up truck you can always add a hitch to the front end that way you would be actually driving forward. Many people do that to get into tight spots.
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Old 12-15-2014, 11:09 PM   #43
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Suggestion, before selling your trailer or starting expensive remodeling try backing the trailer in. Who knows, it might actually not be as difficult as you are making yourself believe.

Best advice. The results will answer your question.

Then you decide which one of those other options you describes, prevail.
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:21 AM   #44
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Our driveway is similar, steeper and I have to make a sharp turn to get into it. I go up hill on the road, unhook our Reese bars (I've done it with them on but bent the snap locks straight out on the passenger side as it takes the brunt of the weight while making the turn. I also, cut the bottom two inches off the hitch as it used to hit the driveway as the trailer was up into the driveway and the truck was still going down hill on the road making the turn. In addition I often hit the rear skid plates on the back of the trailer when it first enters the driveway. Never happened with our 25' AS, but has with both 30' units we had and have.

As far as technically back in and up hill it's no different for us then backing period, just adds some issues as noted above. We have even gone so far as place a piece of plywood under the hitch so it slides on the driveway until both the AS and truck on on the driveway at which time the board comes free.

I'd give it a shot, not sure about the Pro Pride, why not give them a call and see if they can come up with any other ideas. Good Luck
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:43 AM   #45
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It's been a while since I was at Jackson Center.. but, don't they move the trailers around with a tractor?
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:59 AM   #46
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I agree with Chief. I know photo's can be deceiving but it doesn't look all that steep to me. Perhaps if you check around the area you might find a local AS owner to befriend and let them give it a go. Personally I'm not intimidated by a backing challenge and I wouldn't let blocking the street bother me. My only concern here would be the grade and if the overhang would scrape and it doesn't look to be that steep. I have a friend in the Saratoga, NY area with a very long ( 700'+) steep upward incline to his driveway and I manage that OK. And it's not straight either. You will never know until you try it.
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Old 12-16-2014, 08:49 AM   #47
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Hi, so Ken, did you actually buy this house? You didn't say, or I missed it if you did. A front hitch might be the answer, but I would try backing in first. As for the weight on the front suspension, if you were going on a long trip like that, [I know you can't] I would be concerned. Just to park it, no. At my old house, I used a cheapie 500 or 600 pound rated ball hitch to pull my trailer forward and push it back. Hitting a hard bump in the road, and bottoming out, will put a lot more pressure on the front suspension than a front hitch will for the short time it will take to park your trailer.
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Old 12-16-2014, 10:14 AM   #48
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No, but it's less than a block from Puget Sound and Bremerton Naval Ship Yard is not far away. Maybe I could borrow one of their cranes on a barge. I'm sure if I tell them I'm a veteran, it will be no problem.

My wife thinks I don't do well at the backing, and I'm sure she gives lousy guidance, So she does the backing of the trailer, while I keep her from running into stuff.

Ken
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Old 12-16-2014, 10:26 AM   #49
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Hi, so Ken, did you actually buy this house? You didn't say, or I missed it if you did. A front hitch might be the answer, but I would try backing in first. As for the weight on the front suspension, if you were going on a long trip like that, [I know you can't] I would be concerned. Just to park it, no. At my old house, I used a cheapie 500 or 600 pound rated ball hitch to pull my trailer forward and push it back. Hitting a hard bump in the road, and bottoming out, will put a lot more pressure on the front suspension than a front hitch will for the short time it will take to park your trailer.
We have earnest money down on it and are jumping through a lot of hoops. I'm sure you know how that goes. It's never over until the fat bank executive sings.

Ken
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Old 12-16-2014, 12:26 PM   #50
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Doohickies?

How big is the area at the top, big enough to rotate the trailer?

Two or three years ago someone had some kind of rollers they could put under each tire and push an Airstream sideways - the idea being to get three trailers into a garage without three garage doors.

Could you use something like that and just pull the Airstream to the top, then unhitch and rotate the trailer 180 degrees, readying it to go back down the hill.

Or build a turntable at the top like locomotives used to use in a yard, no tracks needed but some robust ball bearings and one heck of a foundation. (The girls in the office took me to a Japanese restaurant - the saki went to my brain.)

Paula

Tractor is probably a more straightforward idea, and has other uses. Or a big "come along" Yeah, that's the ticket...
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Old 12-16-2014, 12:27 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Ag&Au View Post

My wife thinks I don't do well at the backing, and I'm sure she gives lousy guidance, So she does the backing of the trailer, while I keep her from running into stuff.

Ken
Why isn't she posting?

If I read the photos correctly, I don't think it is that bad. But photos can deceive.

Good luck with mortgage underwriters. They can drive you nuts asking for useless information and reams of documents. They try to prove they are important by swaggering through the app. I never found anyone—loan originators, other bankers, realtors or homeowners—who had any respect for underwriters. When we applied for a mortgage for our new house, I spent hours faxing documents. With a little more computer skill, I could have used bank logos and made up my own bank statements showing I was a billionaire. Some stop looking at anything once they have a question—then you have to answer that, then eventually they start again until they find another question—that can happen over and over. Make sure you have a lot of time until closing because mortgage companies can cause you to lose a deal while you wait and wait and the seller gets a better offer. They probably got an application fee, so they don't care. I used Quicken because I got a discount on the app fee. The loan originators were very nice and quietly agreed the underwriters were hard to deal with. I believe if they want to give you a loan they will find a way, but it can take time. If you are both retired now, that may make it harder. But if one of you is still working, don't quit until you have the mortgage approval. Underwriters do not like changes.

Have you any buyers for your Colorado house? I understand the market is very good where you are (unlike the western slope), so I hope things go well on that end. We were in Denver last week and I was shocked at the construction everywhere—even near Globeville. Denver looks like the hottest city I have been to in a long time. You are at the north end of the metroplex, but sales should be good there too.

Gene
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Old 12-16-2014, 08:13 PM   #52
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Thanks for the all the helpful ideas.

After all the sage advice here, I have come up with the following plan.

First, we drive forward into the lower driveway. It is not necessary to go up the slope to the front of the garage, because there is a small parking area to the left. That may be where we bring the trailer to load and unload. However it is not big enough to be permanent parking. After we unload all the unnecessary junk, we will first try to pull up the rear drive going forwards. Depending on how that goes, we may try to back up. If we can go up forward, I think the final solution may be to go up forward and get a powered tow dolly that we can use to get the trailer out of the way, so the truck can escape. For those who think backing up will be no problem, please check out our profile picture. Note how far the trailer extends behind the rear wheels. The trailer is now about 1 1/2 inches higher due to the 16 inch wheels and tires, but that is still a lot of trailer ass to get off the road before the back wheels can start up the hill.

If and when this event actually occurs, I will post a complete report here.

Ken
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Old 12-17-2014, 01:15 PM   #53
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Please have a third party take the photos as you two may be screaming at each other and too busy to take pictures.

Changing from 15 to 16" wheels will only raise the trailer one half inch.

Gene
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Old 12-17-2014, 01:45 PM   #54
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Please have a third party take the photos as you two may be screaming at each other and too busy to take pictures.

Changing from 15 to 16" wheels will only raise the trailer one half inch.

Gene
If all I had changed was the wheels, that would be true. However the tires make up the rest. I know, cuz I measured the difference.

Everyone knows lawyers don't get technical stuff like this.

Ken
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Old 12-17-2014, 01:58 PM   #55
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Well, though this technical stuff is really, really hard, that must mean your tires have one inch more tread than the OEM Marathons. That would make tread depth about 1 5/8". Great for mud and sand or a tractor tire. I am assuming you know how to use a tape measure, but a guy who can't back up a trailer, maybe not.

Now that I've solved that, I'll go back to thinking about who I can sue today. That's so much easier because it doesn't require any facts.

Gene, esq.
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Old 12-17-2014, 02:43 PM   #56
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Well, though this technical stuff is really, really hard, that must mean your tires have one inch more tread than the OEM Marathons. That would make tread depth about 1 5/8". Great for mud and sand or a tractor tire. I am assuming you know how to use a tape measure, but a guy who can't back up a trailer, maybe not.

Now that I've solved that, I'll go back to thinking about who I can sue today. That's so much easier because it doesn't require any facts.

Gene, esq.
It more than just the tread depth. There is a difference in the profile of the tire. The ST's are more round. The LTs are more oval (tallwise). This discussion doesn't require facts either, just bluff and bravado.

Ken, bs, bm, lsmft
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Old 12-17-2014, 04:49 PM   #57
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When we borrowed money from Wells Fargo (2012) for a re-fi at 3.25% and 15 years and when we borrowed money from Bank of the West for the trailer (also in 2012) I did all the leg work. I remember a day and time when a loan officer did everything and all I did was sign and date. When I bought the truck in 2008, the dealership had a finance guy, but I had to dicker and haggle for 4 hours. I remember a day and time when car salesmen gave a fair price in 15 or 20 minutes and you were outta there.
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:10 PM   #58
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When we borrowed money from Wells Fargo (2012) for a re-fi at 3.25% and 15 years and when we borrowed money from Bank of the West for the trailer (also in 2012) I did all the leg work. I remember a day and time when a loan officer did everything and all I did was sign and date. When I bought the truck in 2008, the dealership had a finance guy, but I had to dicker and haggle for 4 hours. I remember a day and time when car salesmen gave a fair price in 15 or 20 minutes and you were outta there.
This still my experience. I wonder if the difference is what car one is buying or where in the country you are.

Ken
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:20 PM   #59
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The truck driver in me says it so the turn from the road that is worst. Not being to see what is at the back of the trailer. And our trailer type swings hard and fast on a pivot. A camera on the rear of the trailer might work but a drive with less of a curve would be best. The grade may be a problem but it is the sight lines that concern me

You and I have pretty much the same truck. I'd replace the Steer Axle bump stops with Timbren or Sumo Spring replacements. A good idea even without a hitch. A front hitch receiver should be custom built to handle the weight. You aren't just moving over flat ground.

Back to the initial impression. As someone who has to block traffic in both directions to back an eighteen wheeler THAT is the situation I'd want to avoid. One wants to hurry and that driveway is a problem looking to happen with the fast swing of a TT. A big truck just rolls the tandems over the landscaping and breaks the curbing.

Still, that beats getting hit by an idiot twittering I'll ride with you. So buy a hijab for the wife and have her do it.

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Old 12-17-2014, 11:43 PM   #60
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For a pick up truck the front receiver does not need to be custom made. Google winches and you will find a front receiver hitch. Better yet just go to any 4 Wheel drive shop and they will know what you need. They are not that expensive even installed. Again Google 4 wheel drive shops for your area and talk to them. Easy solution from my perspective.
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