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**Hans627** · 02-13-2015, 11:17 AM

I am not sure I'm going to get this hitch (I don't even have an AS yet) and don't want to start a "my hitch is better" debate as that has been thoroughly covered.

I was looking at the Andersen website and it mentions that it is not compatible with certain Atwood couplers. My question is, "How does one know which AS has the incompatible coupler?"

Thanks!

AWCHIEF · 02-13-2015, 12:08 PM

Direct from the Andersen web site,
Check your coupler, the model number is on it.

"NOTE:Currently the Atwood 88007, 88010, 88555 and 88600 couplers are not compatible with the Andersen WD Hitch (all other Atwood couplers are fine)."

star kitty · 02-13-2015, 12:14 PM

I bought the Andersen hitch for my 1967 Globetrotter with original coupler. Mine was a Marvel but I believe its the same as Atwood....just older.

From day one, I had issues with these two units coupling together correctly. As soon as you put any tension on the chains, the tension would put pressure on the locking mechanism and push up the locking "fin" on the top of the coupler.

I had several discussions with Andersen regarding this issue. They gave me a suggestion on how to couple the two together differently to reduce the pressure. Nothing worked.

I really loved the hitch....but the fact that they didn't seem right when coupled stressed me out while towing. After many attempts to see if I could get it to work, I gave up. I tried to return the product and the website I bought it from said nope.

So, long story short, Andersen or the dealer in which you buy the product from will not return it.

msmcv51 · 02-13-2015, 12:17 PM

For me it was simple. I replaced the 25 year old Atwood with a new Quick - Bite coupler. Been towing for two years with this combination and love it.

crisen · 02-13-2015, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hans627

I am not sure I'm going to get this hitch (I don't even have an AS yet) and don't want to start a "my hitch is better" debate as that has been thoroughly covered.

I was looking at the Andersen website and it mentions that it is not compatible with certain Atwood couplers. My question is, "How does one know which AS has the incompatible coupler?"

Thanks!

Do a search on this there was just a recent discussion, again, on the coupler. Several people with newer trailers, i.e. no wear in the coupler, have used it successfully, some with installing 3/8 pins to lock the coupler instead of the small 1/4" ones that most people use. The larger pin takes all the clearance out of the connection at the fin.

**Hans627** · 02-13-2015, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

Direct from the Andersen web site,
Check your coupler, the model number is on it.

"NOTE:Currently the Atwood 88007, 88010, 88555 and 88600 couplers are not compatible with the Andersen WD Hitch (all other Atwood couplers are fine)."

Yes I saw that statement on the Andersen website. I guess my question is, "Are these couplers (the ones mentioned on the website) used on new AS models and if so, which ones?"

SafariBez · 02-13-2015, 03:16 PM

I have 2014 International 30. The coupler is not marked, so I asked the dealer to trace it by serial number and I was informed that I have the 88007. I also had a 2007 Safari with the same suspect coupler. I have used the Anderson hitch on both trailers now for 22,000 miles. I watch the coupler carefully, and there has never been a sign of stress or abnormal wear. I use a safety chain over the top. My opinion is Anderson is simply erring to the safe side, and being overly cautious because of complaints received. It is a great, low-cost, light-weight hitch.

**Hans627** · 02-13-2015, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SafariBez

I have 2014 International 30. The coupler is not marked, so I asked the dealer to trace it by serial number and I was informed that I have the 88007. I also had a 2007 Safari with the same suspect coupler. I have used the Anderson hitch on both trailers now for 22,000 miles. I watch the coupler carefully, and there has never been a sign of stress or abnormal wear. I use a safety chain over the top. My opinion is Anderson is simply erring to the safe side, and being overly cautious because of complaints received. It is a great, low-cost, light-weight hitch.

I'm not sure I understand the problem with these couplers. But I assume if you use a safety chain over the top it has something to do with the safety latch. Correct?

idroba · 02-13-2015, 06:21 PM

Virtually all Airstream trailers (and Argosy's) made since about 1970 use the 88007 coupler. I use a snug fit 3/8 pin or bolt in mine to eliminate any slop and fin damage. That did require a slight drilling out of the original hole to 3/8". I have had no issues with any wear or damage, and like the hitch very much.

dkottum · 02-13-2015, 10:27 PM

The hitch incompatibility issue should not be ignored or jerry rigged, replace the coupler. It will work fine as it is until it doesn't, then you are uncoupled going down the roadway.

The hitch may work well for lightweight trailers with a compatible coupler, or medium hitch weight trailers on heavy duty, long wheelbase trucks where weight distribution is near impossible with any w.d. hitch.

Use the hitch if you like it, but check the w.d. at the scales to see if and how it's working on your rig. Don't be fooled by automatic leveling systems that look like they distribute weight but don't, they only level the truck. I also thought our Andersen hitch was working fine until slippery roadways and very light steering showed me it wasn't.

We now use a ProPride.

rostam · 02-14-2015, 08:40 AM

Do you know of any accidents due to uncoupling or is this mere speculation?
I find it ironic that when discussing accidents due to overloading an underrated vehicle, you always brush them off as hearsay, but now you are using the same argument to push for your preferred hitch. I guess anything goes...

msmcv51 · 02-14-2015, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rostam

Do you know of any accidents due to uncoupling or is this mere speculation?
I find it ironic that when discussing accidents due to overloading an underrated vehicle, you always brush them off as hearsay, but now you are using the same argument to push for your preferred hitch. I guess anything goes...

HEAR HEAR I SAY !!!! Been towing with the Andersen going on three years and no problems.

AWCHIEF · 02-14-2015, 08:52 AM

" It will work fine as it is until it doesn't, then you are uncoupled going down the roadway."

I challange anyone to present one verifiable case of this ever happening to anyone using an Andersen WD System due to coupler component failure. Repeating a lie over and over again will never make it fact.

**Hans627** · 02-14-2015, 08:59 AM

Please don't get into the "my hitch is better" argument. They are all good in the right application!

My OP was to collect information to help me make a decision that I think will work for me, when it is time to make it. I hadn't even realized that there were different brands of couplers till a couple of days ago. So call me "sponge" as I try to absorb.

dkottum · 02-14-2015, 09:10 AM

It's more than speculation.

I have seen the pressure this hitch puts on the coupler latch first hand, on our Airstream. I have seen the heavy premature wear on the hitch ball and coupler mechanism inside the coupler. I have seen the urethane bushing bulge when attempting to distribute weight with our Airstream, and the w.d. chains wear against the guide tubes.

I have realized that unlike conventional hitches with spring bars that form a clamping action to prevent uncoupling if the coupler latch ever fails, the Andersen has no built-in prevention; if the coupler latch fails there is no such clamping feature, perhaps the tongue weight would keep it on the ball.

If a conventional spring bar breaks, there is still another spring bar keeping some weight distribution on the tow vehicle. If a Andersen w.d. chain breaks all weight distribution is lost. This could be dangerous in many situations, perhaps worse if the coupler latch also failed.

We were unable to get needed weight distribution with this hitch. If someone is satisfied with it's performance, they ought to take the manufacturer's advice and replace the coupler with one that the hitch cannot unlatch.

crisen · 02-14-2015, 09:40 AM

As to "urethane bushing bulge" - It isn't a bushing, it is a urethane spring and if do a little reading on them you will find that most urethane springs are designed such that the increase in OD is approximately the same as the reduction on length. So what you perceive as a defect is actually the spring working like it should.

ROBERT CROSS · 02-14-2015, 10:16 AM

OK round two.....ding ding.

Bob

SteveSueMac · 02-14-2015, 10:57 AM

Stop - just stop. OP's question was answered. Sheesh - I own a ProPride and I'M offended!

Pleadingly yours,
Esteban

tjdonahoe · 02-14-2015, 11:21 AM

Have a Reese with cam lock works good , without all the problems....

tyggeln · 02-14-2015, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkottum

The hitch incompatibility issue should not be ignored or jerry rigged, replace the coupler. It will work fine as it is until it doesn't, then you are uncoupled going down the roadway.

The hitch may work well for lightweight trailers with a compatible coupler, or medium hitch weight trailers on heavy duty, long wheelbase trucks where weight distribution is near impossible with any w.d. hitch.

Use the hitch if you like it, but check the w.d. at the scales to see if and how it's working on your rig. Don't be fooled by automatic leveling systems that look like they distribute weight but don't, they only level the truck. I also thought our Andersen hitch was working fine until slippery roadways and very light steering showed me it wasn't.

We now use a ProPride.

I was looking ProPride to show up in your post...you didn't disappoint LOL.

Peace.