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guskmg · 01-31-2015, 11:58 PM

I have witnessed an Eze-Lift spring bar failure, a ProPride 2X2" stinger bend and weld failure, and a worn out Hensley. All were replaced by the manufacturers. The point is, at sometime or other, all have metallurgical quality issues that are unseen to the human eye of the QC inspector. Parts are inspected by various internal methods on a random basis and welds sometimes fail even though they are performed by a certified welder. That is the nature of man mad things.

Here is a list of common oversight/problems.
1. Improperly adjusted hitches.
2. Most trailer drivers don't realize the sway control devices are a real hazard in inclement weather. If you leave them tensioned they can cause the rig to slide all over the place in gusty wind and rain (think hydroplaning). Also, they need to be un-tensioned when you back up or they will bend or break off mounting balls.

I have towed since 1970 and have seen/had lots of near misses. Eleven years ago I purchased a Hensley Arrow, first pulling a 35' SilverStreak and then my current 2006 Classic 35' SOD. On my first trip in the Airstream, I was just entering Pennsylvania on I-90 east bound, and had to do an emergency lane change at 65 MPH, to avoid a tractor/trailer's tire/wheel coming at my drivers door across the interstate from the west bound lane. I remember, like it was yesterday, that this is it, I'm going to roll my new Airstream. As the tire/wheel went down the left side of my truck and Airstream I saw another vehicle at my left rear trailer corner. The tire and wheel went between the two of use, but it only scraped the bottom of the slide. The wind draft around my truck obviously saved me from a disaster. At several points in time I saw the tire/wheel in the air as it bounced crossed the median onto my side coming at me. It apparently came out of the spare tire rack under a trailer. I did not see which truck/trailer it came from.

Because item 2, above. I know the Hensley ProPride hitches are superior to all others. It is the geometry of the trapezoid design that prevents the tail from "wagging the dog" so to speak. Even fifth wheels do not have the form of rigidity that makes the rig act as one vehicle. also, i have never read or heard of a Hensley jackknifing. I believe due to rigidity, the whole rig would tend to swap ends. I don't know? Haven't been there , don't want go there.

rmkrum · 02-01-2015, 12:19 AM

Yup. I have a ProPride. Emergency lane changes in the Phoenix area, plus panic stops in the same area--I'm firmly convinced the PP saved our cheese every time. Yeah, it took some experimenting to dial it in, some heavy lifting to install it, and yeah, sometimes its fun to watch dear ol' dad take 6 tries to hit the stinger opening (without a backup camera, btw), but darn it, the trailer tracks the TV and I LIKE that...

Besides, hooking up the plain old ball hitch we used before the PP was just as big a PITA without the backup camera that's part of the new truck....I really don't mind being fun to watch...occasionally. I'd just rather not be upside down on the highway--ever!

The AS video above with a long AS tracking the van is how ours acts in any hard maneuver, in my experience. If something breaks or blows out, well, then it gets interesting, in the Spockian sense...

ROBERTSUNRUS · 02-01-2015, 12:24 AM

Hi, I have had the same tow vehicle, the same trailer, and the same hitch for over ten years. I have towed in conditions where most of you would have stayed home. I have many tens of thousands of miles towing in 14 Western States and 3 Western Provinces. Rain, snow, ice, strong winds, 100+ degree weather, and as low as zero degrees.

In all of this time, "My trailer has, only once, swayed violently out of control" It was parked in my driveway during a 5.0 Earthquake.

Maybe a more expensive hitch would have prevented it; Damn cheap hitch.

gator.bigfoot · 02-01-2015, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ

Care to elaborate? Wouldn't any hitch have problems if it BROKE? Are you suggesting that the Hensley/ProPride break?

Yes I am suggesting that the Hensley breaks. Mine did. Others did. When I phoned one of the top towing experts in the land the advice I got was don't buy another one. They have had numerous ones break and they no longer endorse or sell it. Hensley has refused to change the design or acknowledge that there is an issue. I also asked the expert what about the about the other brand. He could not endorse it either. Saying there are issues with the yoke coming loose and the setup being very difficult to get right due to the yoke design as well as not enough weight transfer. Instead they endorsed the EAZ lift system which I have now. I personally miss the ease of the Hensley hookup and towing without any sway. Perhaps one day when Hensley actually improves the weak points of the hitch I will purchase another, but for now I will use the conventional hitch.

SCOTTinNJ · 02-01-2015, 10:47 AM

Gator, what trailer was that on and what sized bars? I am genuinely interested.

And btw, I am pretty sure I know the towing expert you are talking about. I've spoken with them as well. While I listened to what they had to say, I chose a late model f150 and equilizer over my then owned and brand new minivan and EAZ to tow my 25. I can't say I'm completely ecstatic about my combination.

**jcanavera** · 02-01-2015, 11:05 AM

I've only towed with two branded hitches in my life time. One was a Reese Dual-Cam Sway Control and the other has been an Equal-i-zer. Both have been great hitches and put a lot of credence in the fact that to be effective, hitches need to be installed correctly.

At this point my preference has been with the Equal-i-zer, primarily from the fact that most of my experience has been backing into sites rather than pulling through a site. In many cases I have had to do some extensive maneuvering to get the trailer backed into a site. Sometimes it's trees, narrowness of the site, narrow roads or vehicles parked near my campsite. What I end up with occasionally is the Airstream positioned very nicely in its campsite, but the tow vehicle being at an angle to the trailer. I found in some cases that the angle of the tow vehicle prevented me from getting the Reese tow bars disconnected from the hitch due to the saddle loop assembly the bars sit in. I find that no matter the angle of the tow vehicle, the Equal-i-zer tow bars easily can be mounted or removed. That's saved me a lot of time and in short campsites with narrow access roads, I can hitch up without my van blocking the road.

Jack

VT Wanderer · 02-02-2015, 08:03 AM

Jack - I never knew that there were backing issues with hitch systems. To back into my narrow driveway (just one example) I have to go to approximately 70+ degree angle - then detach the trailer from the TV. I've never had any problem. Oh yes... I've only used an Equil-i-zer (lol)

dznf0g · 02-02-2015, 08:28 AM

There are Max angles on most hitch systems. PPPs come up against a hard travel stop with head rotation. Eqs and Reese, etc, depending how and where the saddles are mounted, can pop off the bars and/or will come against a hard stop when the outside bar hits the a-frame or head....again depending on specific configuration. IMO, 70* is about the max.

I have always made a habit of rolling back and forth to keep a more straight backing maneuver. It's easier on the tires and axles too. (multi-axles setups)

SteveH · 02-02-2015, 08:48 AM

I don't want this to sound like I'm tooting my own horn here, but there's no way to give you the facts without it sounding like it, but here goes.

I've been travel trailering with weight distribution hitches for forty years, and I've owned and used two different Reese DC hitches, both the old style and the newer style, an Equal-I-zer, an Easy Lift with and without the friction sway control, a Curt copy of the Easy Lift, an Andersen, a ProPride, and now another Reese, but the SC version. I witnessed the aftermath of a roll-over accident which I highly suspect was caused by a broken strut rod on a Hensley hitch which a club member was using. I have no idea of how many miles we've traveled with trailers in tow, and it would take me a while to remember and calculate how many different trailers we've owned.

I can tell you bad things about every one of those hitches, but also the good things. They all have their "issues", but for the most part they all work, and work well if setup correctly.

And this is the point of my rambling on here, any weight distribution hitch will work well if sized appropriately, and setup correctly, and most travel trailer dealer's service departments do not take the time to correctly set one up. They will always sell you what they have in stock, no matter the weight rating. They will install it, and get it in the ball park, but it's really up to the end user to fine tune it, and the tow vehicle items like tire air pressures to make the rig drive and handle at it's optimum.

Good luck with whatever hitch system you choose.

rmkrum · 02-02-2015, 10:35 AM

Absolutely agree. Setup is critical. All the tires, WD tension, level trailer, TV capability all figures into the experience.

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boondockdad · 02-02-2015, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guyel

Just purchased a new 2015 FC Twin from Tampa RV today. They offer the Reese hitch and sway control system. I have a 2013 Ford F150 super crew Ecoboost with tow package for a TV. After reading the forum on hitches and sway control I'm really at a loss as to what to purchase. The F150 states it has a sway control as standard feature but I don't know if this is all I need to tow the 25' FC?? Any comments on this subject?

Does anyone use the Reese system or is there one that is considered the best?

Sold a 40' Tiffin Class A several years ago and I used a Blue Ox to tow a Honda CRV for over 38000 miles but sway control was not needed.

Thanks

I hooked that exact Ford PU to my 30'S/O using my Hensley just a few months ago. I was totally blown away by how well it pulled. Very well mannered in/out of turns, plenty of entrance ramp power, plenty of highway passing power (my 30 is typically just shy of 10k pounds). Was also pleasantly surprised the integrated brake controller has electric over hydraulic setting-- but, no 'boost' setting like my Tekonsha P3. Too bad it's not 8 passenger, or I'd use it as the regular TV.

I've used Equal-i-zer, Reese w/ friction sway bar, and am currently using a Hensley 1400.

The Equal-i-zer was fine. Never had any problems, good weight distribution. Noisy. But, why take any chances?

Using the Reese, I rolled a 31' Classic/ 2500 Ram after experiencing sudden and violent sway. Most unpleasant.

Our current 2500 Suburban/Hensley 1400/30' Classic Slide pulls like a dream. As others mentioned, it's not just completely free from sway and push- it's also much better maneuvering (forward, anyway). I will never tow without a pivot-point-projection hitch, again.

Like Bob says; we're talking new A/S and TV, make the investment and get the Hensley/ProPride. You won't regret it.

**jcanavera** · 02-02-2015, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VT Wanderer

Jack - I never knew that there were backing issues with hitch systems. To back into my narrow driveway (just one example) I have to go to approximately 70+ degree angle - then detach the trailer from the TV. I've never had any problem. Oh yes... I've only used an Equil-i-zer (lol)

Yep, one of those things you don't look at until it hits you at the moment. Maybe the newer Reese systems have removed that obstacle.

Jack

featherbedder · 02-02-2015, 03:05 PM

I watched a hensley/propride try to hook up at a forums rally, it took 1/2hr. or more because tv was not level to let stinger in, after much banging pushing AS back, he finally put leveling blocks under low side of tv. I don't think it did much good to tv & AS as much as he hit trying to hook up, so I will stay with my old style dual cam hitch as never had trouble hooking up in 45 yrs.

dkottum · 02-02-2015, 03:24 PM

I've used Equal-I-zer, Andersen, and Propride. Of the three the ProPride is significantly easiest to hook up. If it's not aligned it will not go in, if it is aligned it will go in every time. Never had a problem with it.

I will say I also thought the earlier hitches were good until using the ProPride; it's a totally different and pleasant experience. Talk a friend into letting you try driving his rig and then you will know in a very few miles.

SteveH · 02-02-2015, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by featherbedder

I watched a hensley/propride try to hook up at a forums rally, it took 1/2hr. or more because tv was not level to let stinger in, after much banging pushing AS back, he finally put leveling blocks under low side of tv. I don't think it did much good to tv & AS as much as he hit trying to hook up, so I will stay with my old style dual cam hitch as never had trouble hooking up in 45 yrs.

Yes, I've had it happen to me a couple of times. Once was so bad because the rear axle of the TV was in a ditch when trying to hook up, I had to unbolt the bars from the jack straps to get the draw bar to go into the hitch head.

One of the "issues" of the 3P hitches.

Nothing is perfect, and everything is a compromise.

SCOTTinNJ · 02-02-2015, 05:19 PM

The tow vehicle has to be aligned to get unhitched, no? What moves things out?

rmkrum · 02-02-2015, 05:36 PM

Yeah that's true especially with ProPride. I just make sure the alignment is right before backing. Vertical and horizontal alignment and tilt angle need to be close and it goes in easily. Have been able to couple up at ridiculous angles of TV to AS. Just takes planning.

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SteveH · 02-02-2015, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ

The tow vehicle has to be aligned to get unhitched, no? What moves things out?

Unhitching is a lot less critical as far as alignment in concerned. I never had a time when it wouldn't come apart.

rmkrum · 02-02-2015, 07:21 PM

I did drop ours with a bang once when I didn't have the WD jacks on our ProPride down just right. Now I kick the bars and watch the head to be sure it's loose enough. I have had to tilt the head a little with the WD jacks to line up at ridiculous angles once. AS was diagonally across the sloping driveway to get it off the sidewalk (nasty PITA neighbor loves to call cops on AS-jealousy I suspect) to work on it. Hookup took lining up the TV just right, pushing the head to pivot it just right then jacking tongue to precise position. Slipped right in. Only worry was tire scrub while I pivoted the AS almost in place to pull away. (Take that, nasty Neighbor!)

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**Rocinante** · 02-02-2015, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boondockdad

The Equal-i-zer was fine. Never had any problems, good weight distribution. Noisy. But, why take any chances?

Until we started using the "sway bracket jackets" and also lubricating the pivot points as recommended by the manufacturer, our Equal-i-zer was noisy. Now it's utterly silent, which has been a pleasant and welcome change.