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Old 06-12-2020, 06:57 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Alexstjo26 View Post
can anyone tell me how much work replacing the cord on the trailer side was? I am not sure where the connections are made under the airstream.

TIA
If you need help getting the new cable to follow the old cable route. Consider securely attaching a good string to the end inside the trailer long enough to get outside. Carefully pull old cable out and the string will follow the route. Now attach string to new cable and pull string and guide cable thru same routing.

Might help, might not be necessary.
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Old 06-12-2020, 07:07 AM   #42
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This is how it looks on my trailer. You cut off the old plug, feed the wires from the old plug and the new plug into the box, strip the outer insulation back, crimp terminals onto the individual wires and match them up on the threaded posts. You can find the wiring diagram on this site with a search. Good luck!
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Old 07-29-2020, 04:50 AM   #43
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With my 2017 F-250, the connection is also loose. In fact, on the way to FL, I kept getting “trailer disconnected” messages on my dash. Then it would suddenly reconnect. It continued this for awhile. I sprayed the connector with contact cleaner and the messages continued. For some reason, they went away about an hour later.


I’m still struggling with this. I just took my F250 in for my last warranty claims. I asked them to look at the 7-pin connector on the truck. They said it tested fine. I asked how loose the connection should be and he said “tight”. So, I guess I need to replace the AS connector and see if that works.
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Old 08-29-2020, 10:19 AM   #44
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New 2020 Classic 30 pulled by new 2020 F450 with same issue.

When taking delivery, I spent 15 minutes fiddling with it and then after pushing with all my might was able to get the plug seated properly. A couple days ago, the dealer came to pick up the trailer to apply nanocure and we couldn't get it seated properly with his F150. The dealer says there is nothing they can do, so I'll be replacing the cable myself. Not sure how yet - open to suggestions .

We should all contact Airstream corporate about this. The pdf that someone posted (http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2016/d...ConnCompat.pdf) clearly explains the issue.

Thanks for all the great info folks!
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Old 08-30-2020, 07:14 AM   #45
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Try this Bargman coiled 7-way from Amazon. Works great on my F150.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 08-30-2020, 09:27 AM   #46
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silicon lube on outside of Bargman molded connector solved issue for me

Solution (for me): silicon lube on outside of connector and a firm push allows me to now securely insert the Bargman molded 7 pin adaptor into my 2018 F150 receptacle. I also started using a rubber strap to secure.

Background:
Although I always have fully functional lights and trailer brakes, I too felt the connection between my 2018 F150 and my used 2017 25 FC could be more secure.

Originally I was unsure if it could be due to a slightly bent truck receptacle and/or the trailer connector. I did not want to risk damaging something so mission critical, so as a side experiment, I bought a new one of each as well as a plastic bargman 7 pin. The plastic bargman connector clicks in easy, but the new molded bargman 7 pin and new OEM receptacle still did not.

I never could determine what the conflict was (i.e. outer diameter of connector, alignment of pin slots etc.)

However, I found if I wipe a thin layer of silicon lube on the outside of the molded Bargman connector it slides into the f150 receptacle nice and snug (with a firm push). As noted above, I also started adding an additional layer of safety with a rubber strap around the receptacle and connector.
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Old 08-30-2020, 10:26 AM   #47
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photos of my solution

Two quick photos of the solution for me with improving the fit of my Bargman 7 pin molded.
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Old 08-30-2020, 11:55 AM   #48
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I just bought the Pollak connector and replaced the stock connector on my Airstream. This clearly solved my problem as there is a much more solid connection now. The AS connector is terrible. 15 hours of driving and no “trailer disconnected” messages!
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Old 08-30-2020, 12:20 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billrector View Post
I just bought the Pollak connector and replaced the stock connector on my Airstream. This clearly solved my problem as there is a much more solid connection now. The AS connector is terrible. 15 hours of driving and no “trailer disconnected” messages!
Solid connection, a good thing.

I found a supply of steel body Pollak plugs, bought em and keep a couple in my AS tool box. Had mine same type in service for several years.
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Old 10-07-2020, 02:54 PM   #50
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Thank you! Thank you! Thank You! I have been going crazy with this since I upgraded by truck from a 2011 Silverado to a 2019 Tundra....your pictures explained the situation perfectly! Time to change the Airstream connector!
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Old 03-21-2021, 04:50 PM   #51
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To those that have swapped your plug - did you disconnect from the batteries first (since one of the pins seems to be connected almost directly to the batteries)? If so, is there a place to disconnect (fuse or switch) other than on the battery terminals? Thanks.
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Old 03-21-2021, 05:04 PM   #52
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Yes, definitely disconnect the batteries at the battery terminals - just the negative terminals will do. You take a risk of shorting the wire a possible damage to other components otherwise.
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Old 03-21-2021, 08:47 PM   #53
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Thanks tbrowne. I disconnected both shore power and the batteries to be safe (wasn't sure whether shore power would continue to try to charge batteries that aren't there). Interesting, the aux power pin still showed a couple volts, perhaps from the solar panel?
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