Do you have separate brake and turn functions on the Ford's taillights? If you have a separate bulb for each of these functions then you need a tail light converter module installed just upstream of your Hoppy. This will convert the 3-way tail light functions on the Ford to the 2-way operation of the AS. If Ford includes one with the tow package then you it might not be working properly and may need to be replaced.
Ok, I checked the lights and I do not have seperate light functions. I unpluged the hoppy 7 pin from the truck wires and I do have 2 hot pins when I hit the brake lights. Is one of these for the electric brakes, which one? I do not have a charging wire either that I can find? Every thing else looks normal but I will still have 2 poles flashing when I plug the Hoppy back in? I suppose I could cut the Hoppy wires and plce them to work what I want.
mtnman
Yellow: center for aux. (center)
White: ground (bottom left)
Blue: electric brakes (bottom right)
Red: left turn/stop (center left)
Brown: right turn/stop (center right)
Green: tail/running lights (top left)
Black: hot from TV battery (top right)
Note that these locations are looking INTO the plug from the rear of the TV.
The black should always be hot and the blue should only be on when you depress the brake pedal and your brake controller senses the decelleration.
I called the auto parts place today. The fellow I talk with said they didnt have a tester but said the tester just confirmed each pin with a light, same thing I can do with my test light. He did say if I would bring in the Hoppy 7-pin connector that he would compare it to a new one and if the one I have is bad or different than what the new one was he would switch it with me at no charge.
mtnman
OK, I think the truck is all right. Now it’s back to the coach. I pull my tractor up to the trailer and grounded it good with jumper cables. Then I checked each wire one at a time with the tractor battery. The pigtail from the outside to the inside is fine. I learn that from disconnecting all the top wires inside and checking them. I still have a short or something wrong somewhere on the inside. I still have both rear lights on at the same time when only 1 side should be on. I Have 3 wires that all have continuity from the bottom terminal. Counting from left to right, number 3, 4 and 5 all have continuity even when disconnected from this terminal? That would be the Brown, Green and Blue wires. What do you think is wrong? Any suggestions?
mtnman
OK, I think the truck is all right. Now it’s back to the coach. I pull my tractor up to the trailer and grounded it good with jumper cables. Then I checked each wire one at a time with the tractor battery. The pigtail from the outside to the inside is fine. I learn that from disconnecting all the top wires inside and checking them. I still have a short or something wrong somewhere on the inside. I still have both rear lights on at the same time when only 1 side should be on. I Have 3 wires that all have continuity from the bottom terminal. Counting from left to right, number 3, 4 and 5 all have continuity even when disconnected from this terminal? That would be the Brown, Green and Blue wires. What do you think is wrong? Any suggestions?
mtnman
Based on the schematics that I have, the wires you have listed would be:
Blue -- Main Charge Line
Brown -- Stop and Right Turn
Green -- Tail Lights and Clearance Lights
In addition, the following is listed in the schematic pertaining to the 12-volt Exterior Lights:
Red -- Stop and Right Turn
Black -- Backup Lights
Yellow -- Brakes
White -- Ground
Electrical problems are far from my specialty, but it occurred to me that there might be a problem with the breakaway switch -- I have had problems with the break away switches on both of my coaches where both had shorts in them when I purchased the coaches.
Good luck with your investigation!
Kevin
__________________
Kevin D. Allen WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359 AIR #827
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.11 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
I have had problems with the break away switches on both of my coaches where both had shorts in them when I purchased the coaches.
Kevin
I never thought about the break away switch? I dont know much about it other than it is one on there and it looks like the one that came on it? How do you check the break away switch or disable it?
mtnman
I never thought about the break away switch? I dont know much about it other than it is one on there and it looks like the one that came on it? How do you check the break away switch or disable it?
mtnman
All the greakaway switch does is engage the trailer brakes whe it is actuatede. It shouldn't have any effect on the lights unless it is miswired, and you would notice the trailer brakes locking up when you use the turn signals...
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Terry Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine
AIR#2611
I think that one of the problems you are seeing is that when you measure continuity on lines to lights you are reading the ground through the filament of the bulb. I would remove the bulbs from the sockets and measure again.
The more I think about your problem, the more it sounds like it could be caused by bad grounding. Verify that the ground connection from the connector on the trailer is clean with no corrosion. Also check where the ground for the bulbs attach to the ground. Good Luck and hang it there!
OK, here is an update. I found 1 bulb in the right rear turn signal fixture shorting out and another one not making contact. The one making the short had a terminal wire hitting the side of the socket due to a worn out insulator. I also found that the Hoppy adapter on the truck is still giving trouble, its shorting or just plain failing. I can make all the lights on the coach light up and work fine using the flat 4 prong plug on the side of the 7-pin plug.
I think this problem is resolved!
mtnman
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