Visit our Popular Forums

rmkrum · 12-23-2015, 11:16 PM

Just be sure to immobilize the ProPride swivel mechanism before attempting to back up. A couple locking pliers should do it.

Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums

Rich Jenkins · 12-25-2015, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Just be sure to immobilize the ProPride swivel mechanism before attempting to back up. A couple locking pliers should do it.

Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums

Can you post a picture of this?

cwf · 12-25-2015, 01:38 PM

I have never "immobilized " the PP when backing.. And when backing up my nearly 30 degree offset incline has caused no problem.

I figure if it won't back up, it won't stay put when braking either....only 3 years with ours and dozens of "landings"...

Now, the "respond" of the trailer is "delayed" when backing, but you soon get used to it...

rmkrum · 12-25-2015, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Llando88

Can you post a picture of this?

Never done it. I read that it can be done. I do my own work where possible, and the dealer I go to does not need me to pull the hitch. I wouldn't go to him if he did.

Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums

rmkrum · 12-25-2015, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Just be sure to immobilize the ProPride swivel mechanism before attempting to back up. A couple locking pliers should do it.

The above is only applicable if you build and use a ball adapter for the end of the normal stinger. You don't want swiveling on the normal PP or Hensley pivot if you are pivoting on the ball adapter gimmick. Somewhere in the forums the lock the pivot bit was mentioned. Hensley can use a screwdriver the ProPride needs locking pliers. I don't need to do this--I maneuver the trailer at the dealer by letting them use my TV to do it. Or they use their truck and my stinger. The issue occurs when they try to use a forklift with a ball mounted on a tine.

Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums

Rich Jenkins · 12-25-2015, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmkrum

The above is only applicable if you build and use a ball adapter for the end of the normal stinger. You don't want swiveling on the normal PP or Hensley pivot if you are pivoting on the ball adapter gimmick. Somewhere in the forums the lock the pivot bit was mentioned. Hensley can use a screwdriver the ProPride needs locking pliers. I don't need to do this--I maneuver the trailer at the dealer by letting them use my TV to do it. Or they use their truck and my stinger. The issue occurs when they try to use a forklift with a ball mounted on a tine.

Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums

Ok thanks for the clarification.

Gsmblue · 02-01-2016, 08:48 PM

Right, just back from our first trip using the 3P. here are my thoughts..

1. Towing was fine. no drama. a little better than my previous hitch.
2. Backing up was easer. A more natural feeling cut as I backed up. Managed to hit the spot perfect first time, the wife even noticed...
3. Installation - it is fickle. take time, go slow and careful.
4. Unhitching, it is a skill. Watch for the coupler tension on the ball.
5. Ground clearance, although it looked low, I had no problems. In fact, it was easier to back up my driveway incline.
6. Managed to dial in the WD perfectly on the scales. 7.5inches on the jacks and I was true as a die.
7. Safety chains needed extending by 5 links and a clevice.
8. 7-way cable just about reached, could do with an extra few inches...

That's it, that's all

cwf · 02-01-2016, 09:18 PM

Sometimes it is really easy with good info...

Starstream · 02-01-2016, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gsmblue

4. Any idea what the distance between the jack on the AS and the end of the hitch will be? It would be nice if I could finally open the trunk on my Expedition....

The distance will very a little between years, models, and where you hitch is located on the expedition.

We have full access to the lift gate with The PP and AS hooked up.

rmkrum · 02-01-2016, 09:36 PM

Ditto us. Prior hitch (Husky) was too close. Now we can easily open tailgate on the Tacoma.

Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums

rodsterinfl · 02-01-2016, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Here is a photo showing the tongue weight of a '06 Safari 25 FB with a PP hitch.

I see that 1050# Dennis 4x4. Yep. I have a 2006 25' A and it is 990# but listed as 860# as per the CAT scale. True weight is important and one reason people should make sure they tow with a vehicle capable of towing the weight both in cargo/payload figure and in pulling ability.

glcmranger · 02-02-2016, 04:50 AM

Gamble: I just ordered the 3P for April delivery on my TT. Sean (at Propride) recommended an extension kit (which included chain links, 7-way plug extension, etc) since he said most Airstreams needed them with my TV (Tundra). You might consider ordering one on their website.

Echelon73 · 02-02-2016, 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glcmranger

Gamble: I just ordered the 3P for April delivery on my TT. Sean (at Propride) recommended an extension kit (which included chain links, 7-way plug extension, etc) since he said most Airstreams needed them with my TV (Tundra). You might consider ordering one on their website.

I was able to loosen the tank cover a little and then get a few extra inches of cord running towards the vehicle. Then I just tightened the tank cover back down. I really do not have any extra cord, but it is enough that I do not plan on adding an extension. You may be able to do this with yours. I did have to add about five links to each safety chain though.

greghoro · 02-02-2016, 06:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodsterinfl

I have a 2006 25' A and it is 990# but listed as 860# as per the CAT scale. True weight is important...

Would you elaborate more on the differences between these two weights. How was the 900 lb weight determined and what technique did you use to get the CAT scale weight?

Greg

Gsmblue · 03-01-2016, 02:17 PM

I didn't want to clog up the 3p users thread so going back to my thread

I installed the hitch with the plates down with 2 holes above the hitch receiver shank and no washers on the pin. When I had the jacks wound up to ~7.5inches I did not have WD and the nose of the trailer was high about 1.5inches higher than the tail..

I dropped the shank down so only 1 hole was visible, wound the jacks to about 7.5 inches, have MUCH better WD but now the nose is lower than the tail by 1inch!

I think I need to play a little with the washers on the pin/rivet bit, but not sure what direction I should go in and whether I should have the hitch shank set with 1 hole visible or 2... any advise would be appreciated.

This is all made tricky by the fact I never, NEVER seem to have a level place to do this..

The attached pic is how it is set up now, nose a little low.

Gsmblue · 03-01-2016, 02:20 PM

I was thinking maybe I need to raise the shank back to the 2 holes visible position and insert a washer, maybe?

1965 mustang · 03-01-2016, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gsmblue

I was thinking maybe I need to raise the shank back to the 2 holes visible position and insert a washer, maybe?

Probably up a hole on the stinger. Use the washers to make the stinger parallel to the ground. Nice looking rig btw!

slow · 03-01-2016, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1965 mustang

Probably up a hole on the stinger. Use the washers to make the stinger parallel to the ground. Nice looking rig btw!

Having end of stinger pointed slightly down is better than parallel to ground since link end of WD bars will be lower relative to frame of trailer.

Gsmblue · 03-01-2016, 06:05 PM

Thanks Mustang. When I get the trailer back I will make the adjustment.. Hopefully on Friday...

I love how adjustable this hitch is. Our loading can vary by 500lbs and now I can dial it in and keep to the expeditions axle limits

Ohiobrits · 03-01-2016, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gsmblue

I didn't want to clog up the 3p users thread so going back to my thread

I installed the hitch with the plates down with 2 holes above the hitch receiver shank and no washers on the pin. When I had the jacks wound up to ~7.5inches I did not have WD and the nose of the trailer was high about 1.5inches higher than the tail..

I dropped the shank down so only 1 hole was visible, wound the jacks to about 7.5 inches, have MUCH better WD but now the nose is lower than the tail by 1inch!

I think I need to play a little with the washers on the pin/rivet bit, but not sure what direction I should go in and whether I should have the hitch shank set with 1 hole visible or 2... any advise would be appreciated.

This is all made tricky by the fact I never, NEVER seem to have a level place to do this..

The attached pic is how it is set up now, nose a little low.

Hi Gsmblue,

I would add 3 or 4 washers. This will cause a pronounce droop in the end of the stinger as it comes out of the rear of your TV receiver. This downward droop simulates the rear rake many would apply to the ball on a conventional hitch. With this setup you will need much less lift on the jacks and in my experience get much better WD. There is absolutely no issue with hitching and un hitching despite this droop on the end of the stinger. Just position your jacks so the PP head has a slight upward angle before hitching. For me this is with the base of the jack tube at about 1" from the mounting foot at the bottom (almost all of the way down but not quite). Once you have added the washers, apply say 5.5" on the jacks and see if you are level.

Leveling does take some trial and error. I had mine up and down a hole many times. Remember as you apply WD you will lift up the rear of your TV (reduces weight on the TV rear axle, adds to the TV front axle and transfers load to the AS axle) so the AS nose will come up. If the tongue on the AS is too low you have 2 options.

- Raise the PP stinger up a hole
- Put more WD on (more jack lift) - this can be done by simply adding more lift on the jacks or by adding washers and applying the same lift

Of course you should be careful not to over apply WD and have too little weight on your TV rear axle / too much on the front. Equal squat of all 4 wheels on your TV is a good start. A trip to the scales is also recommended.

Also note that a slightly nose up AS is probably OK since the TV will sink a bit when you, your spouse and other loads are added to the TV.

A few pictures of my stinger below. I have my plates up. I have not looked into it but you may get a slightly different height flipping the plates the other way - don't know. I have the max number of washers I could squeeze in and use 6 to 6.25" on the jacks. 6" is great with just me and the wife, a bit more when our daughter is in the back. This is by FAR the best setup I have had for my combo. The Cayenne drives like there is no additional load on the rear axle at all - completely planted.