3P hitch - about to purchase!

[Gsmblue]

While I have been very happy with my Equal-i-zer hitch, the time has come to upgrade, for the following reasons:

A. We have a big variance in our load depending where we are going and I am sick of constantly moving L-brackets and washers...

B. The current WD does not throw as much weight forward as I would like. More specifically, with the adjustments available I am either pushing too much forward or not enough!!!

C. Just want better control of the trailer. We tow a lot up and down mountains and I want a more secure set up, particularly as we sometimes end up in snow...


So with that being said, I have the following questions:

1. Our AS is parked on a driveway that has a slope front to back. this means when hitching/unhitching the TV is at a different angle of attack to the AS. Will the be an issue with he 3P hitch?

2. When backing on to the driveway I have to cut a tight turn, how does the reversing with a 3P hitch compare to a regular ball hitch? Will I be able to still cut an aggressive turn?

3. The 3P looks heavy, what kind of additional tongue weight am I looking at here?

4. Any idea what the distance between the jack on the AS and the end of the hitch will be? It would be nice if I could finally open the trunk on my Expedition....


Thanks!

[Echelon73]

See my answers below...

Originally Posted by Gsmblue

While I have been very happy with my Equal-i-zer hitch, the time has come to upgrade, for the following reasons:

A. We have a big variance in our load depending where we are going and I am sick of constantly moving L-brackets and washers...

B. The current WD does not throw as much weight forward as I would like. More specifically, with the adjustments available I am either pushing too much forward or not enough!!!

C. Just want better control of the trailer. We tow a lot up and down mountains and I want a more secure set up, particularly as we sometimes end up in snow...


So with that being said, I have the following questions:

1. Our AS is parked on a driveway that has a slope front to back. this means when hitching/unhitching the TV is at a different angle of attack to the AS. Will the be an issue with he 3P hitch?

You will have to make sure the angle on the "stinger" matches the angle on the receiver box at the trailer when your trailer is at an angle like this. It is a little more tricky than level ground, depending on how steep the slope is, but once you get the hang of it not too bad. I have only run into one situation where this created a real pain. I had the distribution bars touching the ground to get the trailer level. If I ever have this situation again I will just put some blocks under the trailer tires before unhitching to reduce the effect of the slope, but this really is not a common problem for me.

2. When backing on to the driveway I have to cut a tight turn, how does the reversing with a 3P hitch compare to a regular ball hitch? Will I be able to still cut an aggressive turn?

You should have no problems backing it. Once you get the hang of the difference in backing it will become natural to you. I picked up on it quickly. Backing into tight spots has been no different for me than before I had the ProPride.

3. The 3P looks heavy, what kind of additional tongue weight am I looking at here?

Someone else may be able to give exact numbers, but I would guess about 100 pounds more than a conventional hitch.

4. Any idea what the distance between the jack on the AS and the end of the hitch will be? It would be nice if I could finally open the trunk on my Expedition....

I do not have exact measurements, but I can open my tailgate now. Everyone else I know says the same of theirs. It is a nice bonus!

Thanks!

[Gsmblue]

Thanks for the swift response!

on point 2, can you explain how the turning while backing up is different?

Once I get through this cup of coffee I will call up and place my order

[dznf0g]

HAHA adds about 100#s, IIRC...but a PP is a bit lighter. I'd guess about 75#s over an EQ (I used to have on, but can't remember the exact weight.

[Echelon73]

Originally Posted by Gsmblue

Thanks for the swift response!

on point 2, can you explain how the turning while backing up is different?

Once I get through this cup of coffee I will call up and place my order

The hitch has to get settled to the direction you are backing. There is a slight delay to do this when changing directions. I just start turning the truck a little early to get the hitch "set" for the direction I am backing. Once it is set in the direction you are backing it responds like any other trailer. It is difficult to explain, but pretty easy to master after using it once or twice.

[Gsmblue]

Thanks Echelon73, that makes total sense to me actually!

We are heading to BC on Boxing day, hoping I can take delivery of the 3P in time... It will also be the first trip with the wife driving the rig...

[Gsmblue]

Just spoke with Sean, order being placed, but not going to get it in time for the trip to BC

[Echelon73]

Having a backup camera really helps for hitching. I also took about an 18" piece of wood and fashioned it to fit in the receiver box on the trailer. I have it designed so it projects the angle (up and down/ side to side) of the receiver box. This helps me line up. When I get close I just remove the piece of wood and then back up the rest of the way. It is not bad. On level ground backing straight in I do not even use the piece of wood anymore. The hitch makes the whole rig so much more stable going down the road. My truck probably tracks better towing the Airstream than it does when it is not attached. It is like having a really long wheelbase. It may not be for everyone, but I like mine and would not go back to a conventional hitch.

[dkottum]

1. You must have the stinger and the hitch head at the same level (relative to each other) to back in. You do this by moving the weight distribution jacks up or down to change the angle of the head. I think it helps to set the head about a 1/4" lower than the stinger (but still on the same level to each other) because the hitch head is reacting at it's lowest point of freeplay, it will lift as you back in. I also give the hitch head box and stinger a shot of CorrosionX lube each time to reduce friction and provide rust protection. Hitching ease is all about alignment of the hitch head and stinger, it will back in every time (if misaligned don't waste your time trying to force it in). To disengage the hitch, just before hooking up I use a tape measure to check the distance of my truck's front and rear wheel wells to the ground. To disconnect, after taking loose the connections and releasing the w.d. I lower/raise the tongue jack until I have those same measurements at the wheel well. Drive away every time without hanging up.

2. No problem, but you still can't go sharper than the hitch rotates or you will bend something.

3. Figure 100 lbs heavier overall, but the heavy weight is in the hitch head and w.d. system, which remains on the trailer tongue. You only have to take out the stinger from the truck. And when camping, unhook the hitch assembly and pull ahead about a foot, then slide the stinger back into the hitch head and leave it there. Minimum lifting.

4. I don't know about the Expedition, but there is plenty of room to lower the tail gate of our two pickups.

[Gsmblue]

Again, thanks!

We do have a back up camera, which is so incredibly useful.

Order placed. Just wish I did it last week, no chance of getting it in time for the trip as we leave on Saturday and Sean thinks it will arrive with us on Monday.

[Gsmblue]

Major props to Sean at ProPride. He just called me to let me know that he is going to get the hitch out to me today and providing 1400lb bars instead of 1000lb bars as that works better with 1/2 ton set ups. I may be up and running for this trip at the weekend!!!

So far I am blown away with the customer service!

[loudruff]

Love our PP! Can't say enough good stuff about Sean and his personal customer service!

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by Gsmblue

Major props to Sean at ProPride. He just called me to let me know that he is going to get the hitch out to me today and providing 1400lb bars instead of 1000lb bars as that works better with 1/2 ton set ups. I may be up and running for this trip at the weekend!!!

So far I am blown away with the customer service!

I think you'll find that the 1400# bars are better. You can dial in exactly how much you need - having the 1400s doesn't meant you'll be moving that much - but nice to have the ability to push as much to the front axle of your TV as you need. I started with the 1000# bars and recently changed to the 1400#ers and some adjustments by Colonial to the original installation. Much better!!!

[Rgentum]

We're pulling an AS 27 with a Ram 2500 diesel. When we bought the AS, we asked the AS dealer "What hitch to buy?" They recommended a Blue Ox Sway Pro, which we bought for approx. $600 with free shipping. All I can say is "It works! I don't know how it could be any better."

I first learned of Pro Pride & its 3P hitch from this stream of comments. I went to the Pro Pride website & learned that the 3P costs approx. $2,400 plus several $100 for shipping.

Query: What extra does the 3P provide over a Sway Pro for the additional $2,000? Mind you, I'm not commenting about the quality of a 3P --- I just don't understand its advantages over a Sway Pro. What am I not understanding?

[m.hony]

I am happy that you are getting the ProPride!
Maybe I will get a ProPride in the future.
For now, I will have to be happy with my Equal-i-zer.
Please post picks of the install process.
Please keep us updated.

[Echelon73]

Originally Posted by RWills

We're pulling an AS 27 with a Ram 2500 diesel. When we bought the AS, we asked the AS dealer "What hitch to buy?" They recommended a Blue Ox Sway Pro, which we bought for approx. $600 with free shipping. All I can say is "It works! I don't know how it could be any better."

I first learned of Pro Pride & its 3P hitch from this stream of comments. I went to the Pro Pride website & learned that the 3P costs approx. $2,400 plus several $100 for shipping.

Query: What extra does the 3P provide over a Sway Pro for the additional $2,000? Mind you, I'm not commenting about the quality of a 3P --- I just don't understand its advantages over a Sway Pro. What am I not understanding?

I used to have a Sway Pro and ended up changing over to a ProPride. I changed because I just never could completely get rid of the sway when large vehicles passed us or in heavy winds. I was towing with a 1/2 ton truck with fairly aggressive tires (deep chunky tread) at the time. The Sway Pro was not bad, and had I tried it with the 3/4 ton truck I have now, then I may have kept it. After using both, I just feel the ProPride is more stable at speed. My dad is using my SwayPro with his Suburban and and a 25ft SOB and he loves it. I think they are both good hitches with their own pros and cons, but my opinion is the ProPride makes the rig more stable at highway speeds.

[xrvr]

Originally Posted by RWills

We're pulling an AS 27 with a Ram 2500 diesel. When we bought the AS, we asked the AS dealer "What hitch to buy?" They recommended a Blue Ox Sway Pro, which we bought for approx. $600 with free shipping. All I can say is "It works! I don't know how it could be any better."

I first learned of Pro Pride & its 3P hitch from this stream of comments. I went to the Pro Pride website & learned that the 3P costs approx. $2,400 plus several $100 for shipping.

Query: What extra does the 3P provide over a Sway Pro for the additional $2,000? Mind you, I'm not commenting about the quality of a 3P --- I just don't understand its advantages over a Sway Pro. What am I not understanding?

Lots of threads on this, maybe try the search function.

[Tom_T]

This is perhaps late in the game for you, since you placed an ad with PP, but another option to save $500-1000 if your trailer is under 6000# & 600# HW would be the Hensley Cub - but all/both PP & Hensley PPPs are great hitches. We have the Cub on our 1960 Avion T20, which being an older vintage kin/AS was lighter than equal length "modern" trailers, mostly due to more amenities/capacities & less light weight materials. So I think you'll like either brand.

Otherwise, to some of your other questions & suggestions - & these apply to either PP or Hensley -

1. They add 12"+ to the length so you can open your hatch or tailgate in most cases.

2. Hensley lists the Cub at 160 lbs. & Arrow at 190 (PP should be similar to the latter), so find your Equalizer wt. for difference - but get a Sherline hitch wt. scale or some other method to get your actual HW with it installed & in any "balancing tricks".

3. The turning circle with PPPs is actually tighter than any others due to their action, so your tight driveway turns should be easier with it, but you actually have to be wary to not turn too tight, cuz you can actually hit the trailer body or A-frame stuff with the rear corner of the TV if you're not careful!

4. Yes, get a good backup cameera with a large screen or integrated into the TV's big Nav screen if possible - then it's far easier to hitch up solo with the stinger.

5. The uneven grade hitching issue is worse when the TV comes in at varying angles on the 4 wheels which changes as you back up, but the 2 tricks are:
a. as noted above is to get the hitch head/receiver box at the same 3-axis angles as the stinger, so get it within a few inches backed up to almost into the hitch the get all the angles the same by moving the big ole hitch head (which is movable manually to match up); but -
b. if you leave it the way it was when unhitched, then it will be close or right on the angles for the next time, which will look wanky but is easier.

6. The action of PPP's anti-sway keeps the trailer parallel with the TV so sway can't happen, so it should be safer on those twisty roads than other sway control systems which only resist the sway - not limit it to the paraleel motion of the PP & Hensley hitches - but still keep your speed down to appropriate levels for the conditions.

7. If you're tired of all the washer & bracket adjustment PITAs - then order your PPP with the adjustable jacks & not the chains - they're far easier to use & if you're physically limited or lazy you can just wind them up or down with a cordless drill! ;-)

8. Another PPP advantage over all the other types is that it all stays on the trailer A-frame, rather than messing with greasy-grimy spring bars & head on & off the trailer when you unhitch & park. So get one of the vinyl covers for the head to both keep them out of the weather & at least warn you & others to watch their shins! ;-)

Good Luck & Happy Holidays!
Tom
///////

[dkottum]

Wills, the advantages of the ProPride/Hensley design have been explained many times in previous threads and early in this one.

Sway resistance in the Propride/Hensley design is in the linkage which transfers sway forces to the truck's rear axle where it is stopped. All other designs transfer sway to the truck's front (steering) axle.

At that point it is a matter of truck design rather than hitch design to resistance the lateral movement. Some tow vehicles are much better than others. Stiff sidewall tires, tight suspension, long wheelbase compared to distance front hitch ball to rear axle. Some examples of improved resistance to say are heavy duty trucks with the mentioned features, and full independent suspension SUV's with these features. As well as others.

Your present setup may work okay for you, but if you feel moved around when semi's pass in heavy sidewinds, or feel any trailer movement, you will really like a ProPride/Hensley design.

Also, dealers will often recommend the hitch they sell. They can make a profit and they are relatively easy to install. The ProPride is only sold direct to the customer, no middle man, no markup. ProPride will however send the hitch directly to your installer or dealer and the good ones can and will install it. Many dealers and other folks will try to talk you out of it, which is why we bought two hitches before we got our ProPride, and we regret the money spent on the other two.

[Gsmblue]

Thanks for all the feedback. looks like the delivery will happen while we are away. I should have ordered last week...


I have never had an issue with sway with the Equal-i-zer. It is a great hitch. The reasons for changing are in my original post. I will put it up on craigslist...

Tom:
We are over 6000lbs so the full blown 3P was the way to go.
We ride over scales almost every trip! I do need to stop and get a tongue weight next time out.
Thanks for the info in points 3 and 5. That is very helpful!
We have a good back up camera, it is super useful!