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Old 12-25-2015, 02:38 PM   #43
cwf
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I have never "immobilized " the PP when backing.. And when backing up my nearly 30 degree offset incline has caused no problem.

I figure if it won't back up, it won't stay put when braking either....only 3 years with ours and dozens of "landings"...

Now, the "respond" of the trailer is "delayed" when backing, but you soon get used to it...
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Old 12-25-2015, 02:45 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Llando88 View Post
Can you post a picture of this?

Never done it. I read that it can be done. I do my own work where possible, and the dealer I go to does not need me to pull the hitch. I wouldn't go to him if he did.


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Old 12-25-2015, 02:50 PM   #45
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3P hitch - about to purchase!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Just be sure to immobilize the ProPride swivel mechanism before attempting to back up. A couple locking pliers should do it.

The above is only applicable if you build and use a ball adapter for the end of the normal stinger. You don't want swiveling on the normal PP or Hensley pivot if you are pivoting on the ball adapter gimmick. Somewhere in the forums the lock the pivot bit was mentioned. Hensley can use a screwdriver the ProPride needs locking pliers. I don't need to do this--I maneuver the trailer at the dealer by letting them use my TV to do it. Or they use their truck and my stinger. The issue occurs when they try to use a forklift with a ball mounted on a tine.



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Old 12-25-2015, 06:50 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
The above is only applicable if you build and use a ball adapter for the end of the normal stinger. You don't want swiveling on the normal PP or Hensley pivot if you are pivoting on the ball adapter gimmick. Somewhere in the forums the lock the pivot bit was mentioned. Hensley can use a screwdriver the ProPride needs locking pliers. I don't need to do this--I maneuver the trailer at the dealer by letting them use my TV to do it. Or they use their truck and my stinger. The issue occurs when they try to use a forklift with a ball mounted on a tine.



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Ok thanks for the clarification.
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Old 02-01-2016, 09:48 PM   #47
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Right, just back from our first trip using the 3P. here are my thoughts..

1. Towing was fine. no drama. a little better than my previous hitch.
2. Backing up was easer. A more natural feeling cut as I backed up. Managed to hit the spot perfect first time, the wife even noticed...
3. Installation - it is fickle. take time, go slow and careful.
4. Unhitching, it is a skill. Watch for the coupler tension on the ball.
5. Ground clearance, although it looked low, I had no problems. In fact, it was easier to back up my driveway incline.
6. Managed to dial in the WD perfectly on the scales. 7.5inches on the jacks and I was true as a die.
7. Safety chains needed extending by 5 links and a clevice.
8. 7-way cable just about reached, could do with an extra few inches...

That's it, that's all
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Old 02-01-2016, 10:18 PM   #48
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Sometimes it is really easy with good info...
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Old 02-01-2016, 10:29 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Gsmblue View Post

4. Any idea what the distance between the jack on the AS and the end of the hitch will be? It would be nice if I could finally open the trunk on my Expedition....
The distance will very a little between years, models, and where you hitch is located on the expedition.

We have full access to the lift gate with The PP and AS hooked up.
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Old 02-01-2016, 10:36 PM   #50
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Ditto us. Prior hitch (Husky) was too close. Now we can easily open tailgate on the Tacoma.


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Old 02-01-2016, 11:00 PM   #51
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Here is a photo showing the tongue weight of a '06 Safari 25 FB with a PP hitch.
I see that 1050# Dennis 4x4. Yep. I have a 2006 25' A and it is 990# but listed as 860# as per the CAT scale. True weight is important and one reason people should make sure they tow with a vehicle capable of towing the weight both in cargo/payload figure and in pulling ability.
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Old 02-02-2016, 05:50 AM   #52
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Gamble: I just ordered the 3P for April delivery on my TT. Sean (at Propride) recommended an extension kit (which included chain links, 7-way plug extension, etc) since he said most Airstreams needed them with my TV (Tundra). You might consider ordering one on their website.
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:53 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by glcmranger View Post
Gamble: I just ordered the 3P for April delivery on my TT. Sean (at Propride) recommended an extension kit (which included chain links, 7-way plug extension, etc) since he said most Airstreams needed them with my TV (Tundra). You might consider ordering one on their website.
I was able to loosen the tank cover a little and then get a few extra inches of cord running towards the vehicle. Then I just tightened the tank cover back down. I really do not have any extra cord, but it is enough that I do not plan on adding an extension. You may be able to do this with yours. I did have to add about five links to each safety chain though.
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Old 02-02-2016, 07:25 AM   #54
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I have a 2006 25' A and it is 990# but listed as 860# as per the CAT scale. True weight is important...
Would you elaborate more on the differences between these two weights. How was the 900 lb weight determined and what technique did you use to get the CAT scale weight?


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Old 03-01-2016, 03:17 PM   #55
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I didn't want to clog up the 3p users thread so going back to my thread

I installed the hitch with the plates down with 2 holes above the hitch receiver shank and no washers on the pin. When I had the jacks wound up to ~7.5inches I did not have WD and the nose of the trailer was high about 1.5inches higher than the tail..

I dropped the shank down so only 1 hole was visible, wound the jacks to about 7.5 inches, have MUCH better WD but now the nose is lower than the tail by 1inch!

I think I need to play a little with the washers on the pin/rivet bit, but not sure what direction I should go in and whether I should have the hitch shank set with 1 hole visible or 2... any advise would be appreciated.

This is all made tricky by the fact I never, NEVER seem to have a level place to do this..

The attached pic is how it is set up now, nose a little low.
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Old 03-01-2016, 03:20 PM   #56
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I was thinking maybe I need to raise the shank back to the 2 holes visible position and insert a washer, maybe?
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