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Old 12-22-2015, 03:40 PM   #29
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Rob,

From what I can tell, there are a few subtle difference between the 2 designs. The 2 that matter to me are:

1. 3P does not need holes drilled into the AS frame...
2. 3P has a wider angle of acceptance for the shank, so this should make it easier to hitch up.

I am sure others with more experience will be along shortly!!
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Old 12-22-2015, 04:13 PM   #30
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To me, the pp hitch parts look stronger, and I also like the adjustable stinger. Not drilling holes in the A frame was a big plus. No bolts to shear off in case of excessive force.


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Old 12-22-2015, 04:24 PM   #31
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I got a haha used at a price I couldn't pass up. The lack of an adjustable stinger is the only flaw I have encountered. I got one of the few adjustable stingers for haha that Sean made up. Made the haha a different animal.
If I were buying new, it would be PP.


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Old 12-23-2015, 06:56 AM   #32
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I also bought my HAHA used and it came with 1000# bars. The 1000# bars seem to work fine for throwing enough weight forward. I would think the heavier bars would just give a more harsh ride. I also have an adjustable stinger which is heavy but works fine.
Like Rich said above - if I bought new it would be the upgraded PP.
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:06 AM   #33
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3P hitch - about to purchase!

I, too, have 1000pound bars and they are fine moving all the weight where I need it. And that's with 1050 receiver weight and the truck bed loaded with about 750 pounds and one passenger.


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Old 12-23-2015, 09:46 AM   #34
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Here is a photo showing the tongue weight of a '06 Safari 25 FB with a PP hitch. The installation took about 4 hours. Probably half that time with a helper. I have the 1200# bars. Since I'm towing with a Grand Cherokee, I had the stinger sent with out the 5/8" receiver hole inorder to have it has close to the rear axle as possible. I'm a strong believer in getting accurate weights and find the numbers on the AS tags very misleading. Same goes for tongue weights.
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Old 12-23-2015, 10:34 AM   #35
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Sean at ProPride recommended 1400# bars for our FC 25/Ram 1500 combo. We can get full restoration (measuring height) to our Ram's front axle even when trailer/truck loaded heavy (which we rarely do but has happened). The w.d. screw jacks allow easy adjustment for the load we have.

I recall Ron Gratz demonstrating the need for more w.d. tension when the w.d. bars are positioned further back from the receiver, as with the Hensley/ProPride. So the need to get the stinger as close as possible to the truck as well as larger w.d. bars than with many conventional hitches.

A soft ride for the Airstream should be a goal as well, but how might one measure it? Inland Andy from Inland Airstream says it's simple. Just stand on the hitch connection and bounce it a few times; should see a couple of inches of movement, if not the connection is too rigid. Sounds like a primitive approach to the question, maybe too simple but probably has merit.

So that's what I did, even with the ProPride 1400 lb bars and there is flexibility. Stuff doesn't get tossed around in the trailer and cabinet drawers and screws have never come undone. The ride, handling and braking of the combo is very good. It's a pleasure to drive, even on busy, windy interstates.

We'll settle for Sean's advice on the 1400 lb bars, Inland Andy's advice on how to check it for flexibility, and Andrew Thomson of Can-Am's advice for near full front restoration on our truck for best towing performance.
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:58 PM   #36
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I cannot even imagine the ARROGANCE of a dealer telling someone that they wouldn't work on their trailer until the 3P was completely removed! While I have no reason to deal with Vogt RV, whoever owns it should get some feedback that this "policy" has now been made public to the Airstream community. So much for "customer service" from that dealership.
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:09 PM   #37
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That just don't make no sense.


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Old 12-23-2015, 07:34 PM   #38
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That would result in a cancellation of the appointment and me going elsewhere immediately. Won't put up with silliness.


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Old 12-23-2015, 10:03 PM   #39
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Thanks Doug for the info on Shorewood.

My only exposure to them had been that I started my wife's and my "let's look at a couple of RVs" by going out to Shorewood one Saturday. That ended our looking at anything that was not Airstream. Fortunately for our wallet/purse, that next week we found and purchased a very slightly used 2015 19' FC from a private party. We will be getting it out of storage for the first time in April. I have high hopes as a nerdy engineer and sometimes handyman to do the bulk of the work on the AS myself. I will be cautious in placing my trust with a dealer - thanks for the reminder.
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Old 12-23-2015, 11:35 PM   #40
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Making an adapter costs about $30. Basically a straight 2" extension sleeve and a hitch/ball lock piece and a couple of bolts. Put that on with the stinger in place and they shouldn't have any problem moving your trailer.

Mine looked similar to this one

http://www.airstreamclassifieds.com/...hitch-adapter/
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Old 12-24-2015, 12:16 AM   #41
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Just be sure to immobilize the ProPride swivel mechanism before attempting to back up. A couple locking pliers should do it.


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Old 12-25-2015, 01:40 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Just be sure to immobilize the ProPride swivel mechanism before attempting to back up. A couple locking pliers should do it.


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Can you post a picture of this?
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