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Old 09-29-2016, 10:18 PM   #15
Paul Zmann
 
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Originally Posted by switz View Post
The towing capacity is a nice to know number, but the tow vehicle payload is the critical number. For your specific truck, that number will be on the drivers door post.

From that number subtract the weight of all potential passengers (remembering that children only get heavier with time) and the excess above 150 pounds for the driver. The remaining capacity has to exceed the actual tongue weight of the trailer plus the cooking grille, chairs, spare propane tank and other camping supplies tossed in the bed of the truck.

Thus the concern that a ton may lack the necessary payload capacity.

Getting going is not as important to as getting stopped, especially if there is a brake failure on the trailer. A ton truck typically has larger brakes than the ton model.
Even if I subtract the 380 lbs for my wife, myself, and my dog. That is still within the 15%. I doubt I would ever load the AS to full 10,000 lbs. Oh, crud I have to take into account dog food, a couple of hundred pounds for Fido the Pit Bull/Catahoula Hound eating machine.
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Old 09-30-2016, 01:37 PM   #16
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Titan XD is a big diesel truck. It should do the 34' with ease let alone a 30'11" Classic.

Swiss you think manufacturers suggested maximum payload is a critical number. I think its a dis service. If we all used axle ratings and CVWR you have people weighing their load and distributing weight making for a safer tow. They would also see if when & how much a WDH would benefit them. When I go thru DOT state scales & Port of entrees they weigh the truck & trailer and are concerned with axle weights for safety well and their fees. Today truck stop CAT scales are all over as are grain scales, scrapyard scales landfill scales etc all for a couple bucks. As are state scales & Port of entrees that can normally be accessed for free when they are not open which is generally more often then they are open.

I am just sharing a different perspective. Just saying if small vehicles did like big trucks and went by axle ratings & CVWR when they load up we would have safer highways. Not saying everyone should have to go thru a scale house like big trucks when traveling but that you should weight your axles and this will make people aware of their weight distribution and they will see when they need to re distribute weight as well as benefit from a WDH or air bags. It just so much more concrete and rational than saying I'm allowed 1,450 pounds on my tongue or payload. Headlights in the air dangerous as fok but the manual says Ima legal.

If you have a really old truck with four wheel drum brakes and an equally old AS and neither have been updated well then brakes are an issue. But modern half tons and or most TVs not so much plus todays TTs come with better brakes. Instead of saying buy a bigger truck for bigger brakes say make sure you have a trailer brake controller. And if you have a diesel TV take advantage of a turbo brake. If your diesel TV doesn't have one consider a software upgrade that incorporates one.

Proper prep is safety, short cutting it by using a bigger truck is not.

Anyway cannon fodder for discussion or food for thought
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Old 09-30-2016, 02:37 PM   #17
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When we bought our 30 footer, I owned a half ton 4x4 that we had used to pull a previous 27 foot extra light (non AS) trailer for which it seemed very well matched.

We had previously towed the 27 footer with a Safari mini van and I always felt we were on the verge of getting into handling difficulties with it. It was much more relaxing when we moved up to the half ton.

Well, we towed the 30 ft Airstream home from Ohio to Ontario without incident , but I was back into that same nervousness that things just felt a little marginal - and I didn't like that!

So I moved up to a 3/4 ton as well as a Hensley hitch - and the towing experience is now perfect for me - very enjoyable and i would do exactly the same again.

Perhaps the Hensley alone would have done the trick, I'll never know, but I decided that since this would likely be our last RV I might as well treat myself and set it up the best way I knew how.

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Old 09-30-2016, 03:06 PM   #18
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Some of us are forgetting that max tow weight is different than truck payload is different than max trailer weight.
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Old 09-30-2016, 05:10 PM   #19
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"Payload" is marketing. An intern running a spreadsheet.

Axle and tire rating are what matter.

Taking the time to set the hitch correctly (and possible modifications) is what works. A bigger TV is not an answer if safety is what matters. It's only purpose is to carry still more junk.

A 10k GVWR trailer may not weigh any where near that. Put it on a scale. And TW is from 10-15% for best performance.

Real numbers are what matter. Guesstimates are meaningless.
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Old 09-30-2016, 09:49 PM   #20
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I appreciate you input. I am looking at a 30' AS and I am truly concerned if my Nissan Titan XD will pull it. The numbers look good to me. With a a towing capacity of 11,900, I personally think it would be fine. Yes I know there is a vehicular weight and towing capacity issue. As I have said my wife, my dog and myself maybe 380 lbs, dog food 100 lbs a generator 125 lbs, added crud 250 maybe a total of 850 lbs. I think the Nissan is more than adequate. I'd hate to buy the trailer to find I'm off but I personally don't think I'd carry 1300 lbs in the trailer.

FYI I'm planning on towing it from Dallas to Anchorage so the is definitely some steep grade in the mix. I plan on adding a tuner to the truck prior to departure. However, I'm guessing brakes are the bigger issue.

Paul Zmann

Quote:
Originally Posted by VernDiesel View Post
Titan XD is a big diesel truck. It should do the 34' with ease let alone a 30'11" Classic.

Swiss you think manufacturers suggested maximum payload is a critical number. I think its a dis service. If we all used axle ratings and CVWR you have people weighing their load and distributing weight making for a safer tow. They would also see if when & how much a WDH would benefit them. When I go thru DOT state scales & Port of entrees they weigh the truck & trailer and are concerned with axle weights for safety well and their fees. Today truck stop CAT scales are all over as are grain scales, scrapyard scales landfill scales etc all for a couple bucks. As are state scales & Port of entrees that can normally be accessed for free when they are not open which is generally more often then they are open.

I am just sharing a different perspective. Just saying if small vehicles did like big trucks and went by axle ratings & CVWR when they load up we would have safer highways. Not saying everyone should have to go thru a scale house like big trucks when traveling but that you should weight your axles and this will make people aware of their weight distribution and they will see when they need to re distribute weight as well as benefit from a WDH or air bags. It just so much more concrete and rational than saying I'm allowed 1,450 pounds on my tongue or payload. Headlights in the air dangerous as fok but the manual says Ima legal.

If you have a really old truck with four wheel drum brakes and an equally old AS and neither have been updated well then brakes are an issue. But modern half tons and or most TVs not so much plus todays TTs come with better brakes. Instead of saying buy a bigger truck for bigger brakes say make sure you have a trailer brake controller. And if you have a diesel TV take advantage of a turbo brake. If your diesel TV doesn't have one consider a software upgrade that incorporates one.

Proper prep is safety, short cutting it by using a bigger truck is not.

Anyway cannon fodder for discussion or food for thought
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Old 09-30-2016, 10:19 PM   #21
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I drive a 2013 F150 with 3.5 EcoBoost and tow a 2016 30 foot Classic. Last summer we drove 16000 km from Ontario to BC, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah New Mexico and back. WE drove through the Canadian Rockies and the US rockies, freeways and two lane from sea level to 12000 ft over Monarch Pass and Leadville Co. Used the tow haul setting which would activate the engine brake downhill and used very little of actual truck and trailer brakes. Nothing overheated, up or down the rig was stable and the only white knuckles that were evident were when I looked over the edge at the canyon floor. Engine revs never exceeded 3500 rpm but speeds were kept low and never exceeded the posted limits. We use a Hensley hitch and the rig stays where its put. There is no sway or any other unwanted activity.
For us it works well and I would take it anywhere, anytime and we carry everything we need.
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Old 10-01-2016, 04:54 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Airstream Annie View Post
I drive a 2013 F150 with 3.5 EcoBoost and tow a 2016 30 foot Classic. Last summer we drove 16000 km from Ontario to BC, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah New Mexico and back. WE drove through the Canadian Rockies and the US rockies, freeways and two lane from sea level to 12000 ft over Monarch Pass and Leadville Co. Used the tow haul setting which would activate the engine brake downhill and used very little of actual truck and trailer brakes. Nothing overheated, up or down the rig was stable and the only white knuckles that were evident were when I looked over the edge at the canyon floor. Engine revs never exceeded 3500 rpm but speeds were kept low and never exceeded the posted limits. We use a Hensley hitch and the rig stays where its put. There is no sway or any other unwanted activity.
For us it works well and I would take it anywhere, anytime and we carry everything we need.
To date, that's my experience as well with my 30' Classic and 2015 F150. Hoping it continues. On Monday, we start our longest trip to-date - Houston to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and back. Report will follow.
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Old 10-01-2016, 05:16 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream Annie View Post
I drive a 2013 F150 with 3.5 EcoBoost and tow a 2016 30 foot Classic. Last summer we drove 16000 km from Ontario to BC, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah New Mexico and back. WE drove through the Canadian Rockies and the US rockies, freeways and two lane from sea level to 12000 ft over Monarch Pass and Leadville Co. Used the tow haul setting which would activate the engine brake downhill and used very little of actual truck and trailer brakes. Nothing overheated, up or down the rig was stable and the only white knuckles that were evident were when I looked over the edge at the canyon floor. Engine revs never exceeded 3500 rpm but speeds were kept low and never exceeded the posted limits. We use a Hensley hitch and the rig stays where its put. There is no sway or any other unwanted activity.
For us it works well and I would take it anywhere, anytime and we carry everything we need.
Another good post by someone with experience in different situations. Thanks
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Old 10-01-2016, 07:04 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Zmann View Post
I appreciate you input. I am looking at a 30' AS and I am truly concerned if my Nissan Titan XD will pull it. The numbers look good to me. With a a towing capacity of 11,900, I personally think it would be fine. Yes I know there is a vehicular weight and towing capacity issue. As I have said my wife, my dog and myself maybe 380 lbs, dog food 100 lbs a generator 125 lbs, added crud 250 maybe a total of 850 lbs. I think the Nissan is more than adequate. I'd hate to buy the trailer to find I'm off but I personally don't think I'd carry 1300 lbs in the trailer.

FYI I'm planning on towing it from Dallas to Anchorage so the is definitely some steep grade in the mix. I plan on adding a tuner to the truck prior to departure. However, I'm guessing brakes are the bigger issue.

Paul Zmann
Now take the 850lbs and add on your 1000lbs of tongue (counts against payload) weight. So, your grand total is 1850lbs of payload used. Now you are over your payload capacity by almost 300lbs.
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Old 10-01-2016, 07:48 AM   #25
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Now take the 850lbs and add on your 1000lbs of tongue (counts against payload) weight. So, your grand total is 1850lbs of payload used. Now you are over your payload capacity by almost 300lbs.
Then set the weight distribution hitch using a CAT Scale, a little load management if needed, and things will look pretty good. Now get some towing experience with the rig and learn what it can actually do.
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Old 10-01-2016, 09:31 AM   #26
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100 lbs of dog food in hall by bathroom add find a spot in the trailer to put my tool box about 10 to 15 lbs (15 X 15 = 225 lbs) in the bed room. Takes weight out of the truck, & a lot less weight on the trailer hitch.
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Old 10-01-2016, 03:39 PM   #27
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Then set the weight distribution hitch using a CAT Scale, a little load management if needed, and things will look pretty good. Now get some towing experience with the rig and learn what it can actually do.

This.

A tuner isn't needed. No where near the engine power of your truck can tow that thing.

It's truck and trailer brakes that matter by an edge over tire quality and tread design.

Antilock disc brakes on the trailer (after upgrading to 16" wheels able to fully support Bridgestone R250 tires) would be the gold standard on a heavy AS bound for the edge of nowhere. See TUSON.
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Old 10-02-2016, 09:32 PM   #28
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I found a 2001 30' Excellia with a Slide Out. Pretty good condition, no dents or damage. I personally believe the price is too high but it is one of the 70th Anniversary editions. Any inputs pro or con.
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