2019 Ford F150 & 2020 Bambi 22 ft bouncing too much!

[Pat Pierce]

Originally Posted by Moflash

Change your cheap factory shocks to Bilstein 5100’s .No more bounce and no more leaning in corners.Your truck will thank you.

While replacing your shocks on the new Ford with towing a 22 footer likely isn't the issue, we found replacing our 2016 F150 SuperCrew 6.5' box Lariat shocks with the Bilsteins on the rear solved our porpoising issue we noticed happening in our third year of towing. I guess the original rear shocks must have worn or weren't "perky" anymore. Didn't have to replace the front ones-yet anyway.

You should be able to tow just fine, hardly noticing you are towing anything, soon.

[tbashin]

Yes, single axle trailers tend to porpoise more than a tandem axle unit.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by nryn

Still waffling on the Bilsteins, gypsydad?

I have a 2019 F-250, not a 150, as well as a larger trailer (27) and did the Bilstein replacement. I’m just ribbing gypsydad a bit—replacing the shocks will help the truck drive better and will change some of the characteristics of the bounce but will not eliminate it.

I had to play with the settings on my hitch over the course of 800 miles or so to dial it in and eliminate a bounce I would experience on anything but minor pavement transitions. CAT scale passes helped me understand if the hitch was set up properly.

In my case, leveling the trailer (yours is nose up) and dialing *down* the weight distribution was the path to success. But every setup, which includes your personal cargo and where you put it in the rig, seems to be different.

Your truck is a very good match for your trailer. You’ll get it dialed in eventually—it’ll just take some patience.

I know; I]was[/I] still waffling on them, but after a quick trip to a shop in Helena, (not Ford) the manager looked at mine and said he would wait to install the Bilsteins till I need replacment; next spring perhaps. Note I get the Bilsteins from Amazon but Ford wanted $650 just to install, plus $180 for a 4 W alignment. The other local dealer wanted $580 total for shocks and installation...they do not do alignments, however. I went to the place I got my tires a few years ago, and they said if I brought the shocks, they would install for $150; alignment would be $58.00...I decided to wait till next spring before we head to AK, since we plan to stop here at the cabin in MT to prep for the trip to AK anyway.

[Moflash]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

I know; I]was[/I] still waffling on them, but after a quick trip to a shop in Helena, (not Ford) the manager looked at mine and said he would wait to install the Bilsteins till I need replacment; next spring perhaps. Note I get the Bilsteins from Amazon but Ford wanted $650 just to install, plus $180 for a 4 W alignment. The other local dealer wanted $580 total for shocks and installation...they do not do alignments, however. I went to the place I got my tires a few years ago, and they said if I brought the shocks, they would install for $150; alignment would be $58.00...I decided to wait till next spring before we head to AK, since we plan to stop here at the cabin in MT to prep for the trip to AK anyway.

Will take you 1.5 hours max with basic tools and zero skills.No alignment needed on a shock change.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by cazual6

Here is something simple. Lower your Tire Pressure on your AS.


I was riding max pressure of 80. Lowered it to 70, wow!!! what a difference.

Agree; we found we had popped rivets and broken hinges/latches on closet, shower, bathroom cabinets when we were running high PSI with our new GY E's last year...lowered the PSI per GY load chart to 55PSI for our 28', and no more issues.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Moflash

Will take you 1.5 hours max with basic tools and zero skills.No alignment needed on a shock change.

Thanks; I understand...did a "few" shock replacments over the years since high school, but not as "agile" as I once was... plus, I had a lift sometimes to help. I still would want the alignment I think; what makes you think you don't need an alignment? I thought that was recommended with shock change? As for when I get these, 2 techs have said same thing after looking at my Ranchos..."why are you replacing? not leaking and see no issues." That's my thinking to wait till spring...3 big trips coming up from TX in Oct...Jackson Center, Baloon Festival in NC, and Alumalina...may consider if issues on these trips. Thanks for the feedback.

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Thanks; I understand...did a "few" shock replacments over the years since high school, but not as "agile" as I once was... plus, I had a lift sometimes to help. I still would want the alignment I think; what makes you think you don't need an alignment? I thought that was recommended with shock change? As for when I get these, 2 techs have said same thing after looking at my Ranchos..."why are you replacing? not leaking and see no issues." That's my thinking to wait till spring...3 big trips coming up from TX in Oct...Jackson Center, Baloon Festival in NC, and Alumalina...may consider if issues on these trips. Thanks for the feedback.

Alignment is necessary with a strut change, a shock change would depend on what (if anything) you had to disconnect to get to the shock to remove/replace it. A REAR shock change on a solid-axle vehicle isn't likely to make any difference to alignment, though.

[Moflash]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Thanks; I understand...did a "few" shock replacments over the years since high school, but not as "agile" as I once was... plus, I had a lift sometimes to help. I still would want the alignment I think; what makes you think you don't need an alignment? I thought that was recommended with shock change? As for when I get these, 2 techs have said same thing after looking at my Ranchos..."why are you replacing? not leaking and see no issues." That's my thinking to wait till spring...3 big trips coming up from TX in Oct...Jackson Center, Baloon Festival in NC, and Alumalina...may consider if issues on these trips. Thanks for the feedback.

Have one removed and you will see.The techs at my Ford store could not believe it either until I bought one in to show them.They all know now the Rancho’s are junk when new.

[Bob Little]

Originally Posted by Moflash

Change your cheap factory shocks to Bilstein 5100’s .No more bounce and no more leaning in corners.Your truck will thank you.

To the owner of the 22 Bambi, please be advised that the 2017-2019 Ford F-150 with "Max Tow" package and "factory shocks" and a properly set up, balanced trailer and a properly set up weight distribution system will yield a perfectly steady and flat ride experience. There is nothing wrong with the "Max Tow" specific Ford Motor Company factory-designed systems. No need on your part to re-engineer what the Ford truck division has provided for you. And the addition of the Michelin 16" LT tires ...the earlier poster mentioned ...will minimize the swerve tendency inherent in some trailer set-ups. Set those tires to 67 psi cold and enjoy your ride.

[Snaken49]

Highly recommend getting in touch with Andy Thompson at Can-Am RV https://www.canamrv.ca/blog/category/hitch-hints/

He is a master of setting up tow hitches and vehicles. I had a problem with towing my 28’ Flying Cloud. Talked to Andy, took measurements and sent pictures. Their shop designed a custom hitch. I installed it along with the WD bars they recommend. Still towing 8 years later with zero issues.

All the best! [emoji4]

[ElliotA]

I installed a Roadmaster Suspension kit on my2018 F150 at the recommendation of people on the Bourbon Caravan last September and it was the best $400 I have ever spent. Even without the trailer it changes the driving feel of the F150 from like driving a Buick to driving a BMW.

[SilverWind]

Just out of curiosity.....have you towed you trailer with it and the 150 fully loaded for camping? Sometimes on lighter trucks and trailers the additional weight can change the ride significantly.

[napabill]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Thanks; I understand...did a "few" shock replacments over the years since high school, but not as "agile" as I once was... plus, I had a lift sometimes to help. I still would want the alignment I think; what makes you think you don't need an alignment? I thought that was recommended with shock change? As for when I get these, 2 techs have said same thing after looking at my Ranchos..."why are you replacing? not leaking and see no issues." That's my thinking to wait till spring...3 big trips coming up from TX in Oct...Jackson Center, Baloon Festival in NC, and Alumalina...may consider if issues on these trips. Thanks for the feedback.

On a 2WD F150 the front springs/shocks are sort of a modified MacPherson strut where the unit must be removed to change the shocks. On those you need an alignment after changing the shocks. On a 4X4 I am not for sure but think the shocks are just unbolted and bolted back on, like the rear shocks, no alignment change involved. You probably need to get it in the air for the fronts. I replaced the rears on mine with Bilsteins and it took about 30 minutes total just laying on the ground. After looking at the front I took it to my tire dealer and paid them $100 to change the fronts and another $40 for an alignment and a rotation. I paid about $35 each for the rears and $70 for the fronts from Amazon Warehouse.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by GeoffyJ

we are going to find a weigh scale to go to to see where the weight is sitting. We are also considering putting an extra leaf into the suspension but don't want to start going in the wrong direction to solve this bouncing problem.

Please post your weigh-in results here when you have a chance. As suggested recently, you might want to have both the trailer and tow vehicle loaded for camping, or at least approximate that loading.

Good luck,

Peter

[richcrest]

When I upgraded to a 2018 F-150 FX4 Super Crew TV, I had to get a hitch shank with more drop for my Equal-izer 6K. Summit Racing has a good selection of Curt shanks. I also needed 2" more length on the shank so that the flared tailgate would clear the trailer jack head.

When my EQ hitch head was mounted on the new shank, the main mounting bolts weren't torqued tight enough. On the way home from the first 250 mile round trip, I got way too much bounce. The not-tight-enough bolts even bent my angle set bolt from all the bouncing. So I ordered a new bolt package from Equal-izer, hacksawed the hex head off the bent angle set bolt, filed off the kerfs and was able to remove the threaded stub with channel pliers going forward.

Bottom line: find a truck repair shop that has a long enough manual torque wrench to tighten your hitch bolts to manufacturer spec. They cost upwards of $750 if you have to have one. Torque sticks won't cut it. Big impact wrenches can stretch your bolts. On my EQ 6K it's exactly 320 lb. ft. And have those bad boys re-torqued every year when you're getting ready to go on your first trip.

[musicbox]

We towed our 2013 AS FC25FB for five years with our 2012 Ford F-150 super crew cab short-bed with Ecoboost engine. It was equipped with the factory installed tow package. At first we too experienced some porpoising when we transferred our Equalizer hitch to the 25-foot trailer from the 23-foot AS that we traded in. A visit to the dealer to correct the problem did not help. Same with a couple tries at Camping World. Finally we visited Poulsbo RV in Mount Vernon WA, where we found a person knowledgeable about weight-distribution hitches, and the Equalizer in particular. A simple change to the hitch to adjust the weight distribution solved the problem. About half an hour later - no more bounce! I would advise finding someone truly knowledgeable about weight distributing hitches. They should be able to solve the problem. If it means changing hitches, it's worth it! However any hitch will need to be properly adjusted to work with your truck/trailer combo. Best of luck and safe travels.

[Deairstream]

The Tow Max Package will add 20-inch tires to the 2019 f150. Your door sticker shows 18inch tires. You may have a tow package Only a Tow max Package with 20inch tires and the 3.5 eco boost can tow 12,000lbs Something is wrong.

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by Deairstream

The Tow Max Package will add 20-inch tires to the 2019 f150. Your door sticker shows 18inch tires. You may have a tow package Only a Tow max Package with 20inch tires and the 3.5 eco boost can tow 12,000lbs Something is wrong.

Ford's statement on this is a bit vague. I think what happens is that if you specify 53C, you ALSO must order 20" tires to get the highest rated payload (and therefore max theoretical tow rating) but you can order 53C without the 20"s and still get:

• 3.55 Electronic-locking rear-axle
• 4-pin/7-pin wiring harness
• 36 Gallon fuel tank
• Auxiliary transmission oil cooler
• Engine oil cooler
• Class IV trailer hitch receiver
• Pro Trailer Backup Assist with Tailgate LED
• Smart Trailer Tow Connector (standard on LARIAT and higher)
• Integrated Trailer Brake Controller
• Upgraded front stabilizer bar
• Upgraded rear bumper

[flaucheux]

Not enough tongue weight on your truck... camper is acting like a lever and probably pullin up on rear end of truck on bumpy roads. Readjust Weight Distribution or try a different one. I love my equalizer. You should not need to change anything on your truck.

[Kanusport]

I have the exact same setup and don’t use Weight distribution and have no bounce. My bet is it’s got to be the WD is set up improperly. Head to the scales loaded and see where you land and if you even need it. My scale ticket shows only @150lbs came off my front axle. Thus no WD