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Old 08-20-2019, 08:37 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by HHPJ View Post
. . .
There is another thread on this matter with the F150....
One of these maybe?

https://www.google.com/search?q=F150...com&gws_rd=ssl

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Old 08-20-2019, 08:55 AM   #22
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A few thoughts. Lower the tire pressure on the trailer to 60-65 psi. Fill the water tank and load heavy stuff under the bed to get the tongue weight up. Make sure hitch tension is right. Too much causes porpoising, too little causes instability.

I think the real issue is the square trunnion bars. Their initial stiffness is too much, unlike tapered round bars. I’m using 1000 lb Eaz-Lift bars with a lighter 2019 22fb, and I was able to eliminate the porpoising quite readily through fine-tuning.
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Old 08-20-2019, 09:05 AM   #23
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Another vote here for reviewing the hitch set up. Get your manual out for it and go through the steps yourself to make sure everything is at the right height, photos can be deceptive when looking for things to be level/parallel.

Is the trailer loaded up for camping or empty?

Definitely get the whole set up on the scales and note all your weights.

Exhaust all avenues with what you have before making changes to the system. It will help you learn about your rig and that is useful in its self.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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Old 08-20-2019, 09:15 AM   #24
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Geoffy,
I doubt you need another leaf, and I doubt you need new shocks on a brand-new truck and a light trailer.

So, you have a hitch adjustment issue.

Read the owner's manual -- it tells you how to set up a weight distribution hitch. Then follow Goodyear's tire inflation chart for the trailer tires, plus maybe 25% -- which probably will put you well below 65psi. I wouldn't go below 45psi.

Earlier F-150's said to restore 50% of the weight lost on front due to trailer tongue weight. But read your manual and do as it says.

I'm not a fan of the E2's, but a number of dealers use them because they're cheap. Still, with your heavy truck and a light trailer you should be able to get this dialed in.
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Old 08-20-2019, 09:29 AM   #25
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Most all good advice here. I would also add, if your truck is new, you likely do not need to get new shocks unless something is wrong with them (leaking;failing), or you just want to spend money. Several folks recommend Bilsteins as replacment shocks when you need/want a replacment, but I would exhaust the other suggestions first. Doesn't sound like shocks are the culprit to me.
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Old 08-20-2019, 09:50 AM   #26
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Still waffling on the Bilsteins, gypsydad?

I have a 2019 F-250, not a 150, as well as a larger trailer (27) and did the Bilstein replacement. I’m just ribbing gypsydad a bit—replacing the shocks will help the truck drive better and will change some of the characteristics of the bounce but will not eliminate it.

I had to play with the settings on my hitch over the course of 800 miles or so to dial it in and eliminate a bounce I would experience on anything but minor pavement transitions. CAT scale passes helped me understand if the hitch was set up properly.

In my case, leveling the trailer (yours is nose up) and dialing *down* the weight distribution was the path to success. But every setup, which includes your personal cargo and where you put it in the rig, seems to be different.

Your truck is a very good match for your trailer. You’ll get it dialed in eventually—it’ll just take some patience.
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Old 08-20-2019, 10:18 AM   #27
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Always check tire pressure on trailer.
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Old 08-20-2019, 10:22 AM   #28
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F150 Bouncing

Hello,

I live here in Delta and would happy to try and help one night next week down at the scale by Alex Fraser if you like.

Lots of comments see correct in the posting.

You said bouncing, but are you porpoising where truck rides like a wave up and down with the tongue sagging and then raising or is the ride to firm.

We have an 18 GMC Sierra 1500 and a 27' Overlander tandem axle and for tandems it is critical to have the trailer tow flat to load both axles evenly, on a single axle I would think this is less important, but still good practice.

In order to setup it would be good to have the truck and trailer weighted to when you go camping, such as firewood, gear, generator whatever you normally travel with to re-create the situation.

Text me if you like.

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Old 08-20-2019, 10:41 AM   #29
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As a previous Bambi owner. My experience is that the Bambi wit bounce more.
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Old 08-20-2019, 10:53 AM   #30
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I tow 2017 19' with a chevy colorado Diesel, I noticed less bouncing in the truck by re-adjusting my WD hitch and changing my tires and wheels for Michelin 22575R16 LTX MS/2. I heard Michelin now makes that LT tires in 15". I run them at 75psi, I live in Quebec Canada, roads are awful and I do pop rivets when I come back in the spring with all the deep potholes but bouncing is better than at the beginning with the original 15" wheels and the wrongly adjusted WDH. I can see from the Pics the nose of the trailer is up, It is better to tow with the front being lower than upper, this would need adjustment. I learned with the owners manual and youtube how to adjust myself my Weight distribution hitch, it is not that hard and more precise as some dealer I now realize, don't know what they are doing. Check the weight distribution of your things inside the trailer, The weight at the hitch ball should be between 10 to 15% of the trailer weight, if it is under or over it could give extra bounce (I bought a Sherling trailer tongue weight to have a more precise weight measure). Also, water running freely in black or grey tank in the back. Then there is the weight in the truck. Payload respected?. This is my little experience in bouncing around. Good luck.
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Old 08-20-2019, 10:57 AM   #31
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I pull an older 22” Safari dual axle which is heavier than yours with a 2017 F150 and no bounce issues

Hard to tell by your photos but it does appear the trailer is riding high on the tongue. It also appears looking at the hitch receiver photo that there is not enough of a drop on it.

My guess is that who ever sold you the WDH and set it up for you simple over cranked down the WDH in an attempt to compensate for the lack of drop on the receiver. Tongue high and over cranked WDH will result in a rough ride and most probable trailer sway at higher speeds.

When I first got this trailer an Airstream dealer installed a new type to me WDH and when they did I questioned them as to whether or not it was set up correctly as to me (based on previous towing experience) it appeared not to be. I got about 10 mikes from the dealer before pulling over at a freeway rest stop and having to get out the tool box and adjust the whole thing using the WDH,s manual and watching a couple of videos on their website. No further issues, hardly notice the trailer is even there.
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Old 08-20-2019, 10:57 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffyJ View Post
The 2019 Ford F150 XTR that we bought came with a tow package. The truck has a 11,600 lb tow capacity and a payload of 3270 lbs.
Traveland installed the E2 Fastway brand hitch which is a 2 point sway control & weight distribution hitch combined. The bars that go from the hitch to the trailer are rated for 600 to 800 lbs
I hope this helps to figure out how to stop this bouncing!
Its a good hitch but Trunion bar hitches WILL give the roughest ride out there.
We had the same hitch and truck combo on our first trailer a 30' International and after having the shower door fall of and the dinette table rip out of the wall I began to educate myself. Eventually ended up with the Blue Ox and the ride is day and night. I also changed to Michelin tires on the trailer from the ST GYM which further improved the ride.
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Old 08-20-2019, 11:10 AM   #33
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I am not sure why you would necessarily need new shocks. To me, your trailer is high at the hitch and you should lower the ball so it's more level. That should help. If not, I would invest in a new hitch and WD setup like the blueox



Because Ford chooses to put on cheap shocks that are so bad that when removed and compressed they take at least 30 seconds or more to rebound (not acceptable).My wife can compress them easily with 1 hand.I also removed them and took them to my Ford dealers service department and showed the technicians they were in disbelief! They are built to cruise around town but not with a load or a trailer.This is also true of the 2012-2019 F250 and F350 with the off road package.Change them out and you will have a truck that rides and handles as it should of to begin with,no more lean on corners and bounce is gone.Not saying his hitch is not adjusted properly just saying many of us have replaced the shocks on new Ford trucks and found nirvana.
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Old 08-20-2019, 11:15 AM   #34
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22' Bounce House

DOES sound like your WD system is ratcheted up too tightly. Maybe get the tech that set it up to do a quick ride-along but before you do try this:

With your TV disconnected from the trailer, measure the distance from the ground, across the center of a front wheel to the edge of the fender well. Our 2019 F150 FX4 measures about 37-1/4" and once our 25'FBFC is hitched up--with no spring bars yet attached--will rise an inch to 38-1/4". Once the bars are on, it measures about 37-1/2", a rise of about 1/4". Tows smoothly and tracks great!

You should get comparable measurements. But if your 22' measures LESS than the unloaded height after the bars are on, then your hitch is definitely set up too tight. Get some numbers together to bolster your claim and get them to make you whole on the package.

Good luck and keep us posted!
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Old 08-20-2019, 11:21 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by glcmranger View Post
Also— if you have Endurance tires, consider dropping your tire pressure down a little bit... I would start at 65 and see if it makes a difference...
My 20-foot Safari specifies 65 lbs pressure in the tires. That is on the tire spec plate on the driver side near the front of the trailer.
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Old 08-20-2019, 11:36 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emelaich01 View Post
DOES sound like your WD system is ratcheted up too tightly. Maybe get the tech that set it up to do a quick ride-along but before you do try this:

With your TV disconnected from the trailer, measure the distance from the ground, across the center of a front wheel to the edge of the fender well. Our 2019 F150 FX4 measures about 37-1/4" and once our 25'FBFC is hitched up--with no spring bars yet attached--will rise an inch to 38-1/4". Once the bars are on, it measures about 37-1/2", a rise of about 1/4". Tows smoothly and tracks great!

You should get comparable measurements. But if your 22' measures LESS than the unloaded height after the bars are on, then your hitch is definitely set up too tight. Get some numbers together to bolster your claim and get them to make you whole on the package.

Good luck and keep us posted!
All good advise but perhaps before going through those needed steps they should park the truck on flat ground and measure the top of the ball height on the truck. I believe the 22’ Sport has a ball height of 19”. They need to check their manual to confirm that. If the top of the ball on the truck is more than an inch higher than that they will need to drop the ball down or if not possible get the party who sold them the hitch to replace the receiver to one that is fitted correctly to the truck and trailer.
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Old 08-20-2019, 01:07 PM   #37
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We had similar but not exact problems. We took ours to Can Am RV in London Ontario. We did it on our way to Alumapalooza9 in 2018. It was well worth the extra couple of days. They let us use a hook up in their lot for the night. and gave us a car to run around in for the day. Solved all the bouncing and swaying and did a great job. Wonderful people!
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Old 08-20-2019, 02:38 PM   #38
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Well, shock absorbers are a misnomer. They are really dampers. Springs are engineered to support loads (ie. pushing down on it), not shocks (dampers). That said, I think pushing down on them is typically difficult because they tend to use oils or liquids that have to be squeezed through little orifices and that can take some force, so maybe yours were defective.

Matt

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moflash View Post
Because Ford chooses to put on cheap shocks that are so bad that when removed and compressed they take at least 30 seconds or more to rebound (not acceptable).My wife can compress them easily with 1 hand.I also removed them and took them to my Ford dealers service department and showed the technicians they were in disbelief! They are built to cruise around town but not with a load or a trailer.This is also true of the 2012-2019 F250 and F350 with the off road package.Change them out and you will have a truck that rides and handles as it should of to begin with,no more lean on corners and bounce is gone.Not saying his hitch is not adjusted properly just saying many of us have replaced the shocks on new Ford trucks and found nirvana.
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Old 08-20-2019, 03:59 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyHapgood View Post
Well, shock absorbers are a misnomer. They are really dampers. Springs are engineered to support loads (ie. pushing down on it), not shocks (dampers). That said, I think pushing down on them is typically difficult because they tend to use oils or liquids that have to be squeezed through little orifices and that can take some force, so maybe yours were defective.

Matt
They are all defective as I said in my post.My last 4 new Ford pickups from 2012 up were the same when removed and tested.I replaced them all with Bilstein shocks the first week of ownership.
I have a strong mechanical background with 40 plus years experience
in the automotive industry and have been a consultant for Chevrolet ,Mercedes Benz Porsche Ferrari Lamborghini and many more (and I am also a ASE certified technician).I agree with your damper statement but if I had referred to them as dampers 95% of this forum would have no idea what I was talking about.Lol
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Old 08-20-2019, 04:06 PM   #40
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Here is something simple. Lower your Tire Pressure on your AS.


I was riding max pressure of 80. Lowered it to 70, wow!!! what a difference.
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