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gypsydad · 09-26-2017, 10:45 AM

Not dissing the Equalizer, but on our 2nd 2008 25' AS, it came with Equalizer hitch and 750# bars. They torqued and broke when backing into a spot, shortly after we got her, while we were in AZ. Dealer only had the Blue Ox with 1000# bars in stock. We used the new BO with no issues for 3 years; When we purchased our 2014 FB twin, we went with a new BlueOx with same 1000# bars, and no issues for 3 years we owned her. With the new 28', we went up to the 1500# bars, as tongue weight is at a little over 1100#.

I would double check your tongue weight, and go with what the mfg. recommends, before I would down size...but that's just me. Dealer usually has a scale, but make sure you have loaded up when measuring.

mikeinca · 09-26-2017, 12:27 PM

I've been struggling with the issue of which Equalizer bars to use with a 2017 F250 and a 2018 30' Classic as I'll soon own this combination, and I've seen the various comments about choosing 1000# or 1200# bars with this set up. I'd like to get it "right" before the TV and TT arrive since the AS dealer is providing and installing the hitch and the two sizes of bars are not interchangeable without getting a different hitch head.

FWIW, I contacted Equalizer. They told me that if the real world tongue weight of the 30' Classic is 1000# or more, which seems very likely, I should definitely go with the 1200# bars and associated hitch head. Comments?

wave man · 09-26-2017, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ

I've used the following combinations:

25' trailer
F150 with 600 lb bars

30' trailer
F150 with 600 lb bars (trailer was empty)
F150 with 1000 lb bars
F250 with 1000 lb bars

Based on my experience id go with 1000 lb bars.

Thank you Scott

wave man · 09-26-2017, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hhendrix

2011 F250 4WD
2015 27' FB Flying Cloud
600-800# bars

(previous 1200# bars were beating the trailer to death)

Your experience caught my eye , I'll be lobbying for serious attention to this issue at the dealer when the hitch is being thought of, thanks hhendrix

wave man · 09-26-2017, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

Indeed, heavier bars are going to put more force on the A frame of the trailer. That may not be as apparent as the dishes rattling around. It is expensive to repair down the road.

Bob

Thank you Bob I value your opinion it always seems reasoned and commonsensical [emoji106]

wave man · 09-26-2017, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Not dissing the Equalizer, but on our 2nd 2008 25' AS, it came with Equalizer hitch and 750# bars. They torqued and broke when backing into a spot, shortly after we got her, while we were in AZ. Dealer only had the Blue Ox with 1000# bars in stock. We used the new BO with no issues for 3 years; When we purchased our 2014 FB twin, we went with a new BlueOx with same 1000# bars, and no issues for 3 years we owned her. With the new 28', we went up to the 1500# bars, as tongue weight is at a little over 1100#.

I would double check your tongue weight, and go with what the mfg. recommends, before I would down size...but that's just me. Dealer usually has a scale, but make sure you have loaded up when measuring.

Appreciate the input, the relationship to the new stout F-250 suspension is the new issue of concern though, hhendrix had some real problems with almost the same setup I'll have and there are whispers of other people seeing the same. Has been discussed recently with several advising a lighter bat because of the problem and unique new circumstances... hence the concern

wave man · 09-26-2017, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeinca

I've been struggling with the issue of which Equalizer bars to use with a 2017 F250 and a 2018 30' Classic as I'll soon own this combination, and I've seen the various comments about choosing 1000# or 1200# bars with this set up. I'd like to get it "right" before the TV and TT arrive since the AS dealer is providing and installing the hitch and the two sizes of bars are not interchangeable without getting a different hitch head.

FWIW, I contacted Equalizer. They told me that if the real world tongue weight of the 30' Classic is 1000# or more, which seems very likely, I should definitely go with the 1200# bars and associated hitch head. Comments?

Might be the larger (heavier?) 30'Classic will weather it different? But I'm a newb in these waters, wiser heads will have to comment, seems the FC 25 is getting beaten up on the brand new F-250 with what would have been appropriate bars only a little while ago otherwise..

Tsunami-v2 · 09-26-2017, 02:54 PM

This is exactly why I'm seriously considering this hitch. Hope it significantly reduces the shock/vibration of the stiffer frame/suspension of our new 2017 F250 diesel..

https://genyhitch.com/the-hitch-stor...ibution-hitch/

SCOTTinNJ · 09-26-2017, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wave man

Thank you Scott

My pleasure. Btw, the 250 is a 2017 with 6.2. I have almost 8,000 miles on it. Love it.

Moflash · 09-26-2017, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tsunami-v2

This is exactly why I'm seriously considering this hitch. Hope it significantly reduces the shock/vibration of the stiffer frame/suspension of our new 2017 F250 diesel..

https://genyhitch.com/the-hitch-stor...ibution-hitch/

You would be better off with a Airsafe hitch.Your truck will ride better and your Airstream will also.

wave man · 09-26-2017, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ

My pleasure. Btw, the 250 is a 2017 with 6.2. I have almost 8,000 miles on it. Love it.

Picked mine up today, the thing is such a beast!

gypsydad · 09-27-2017, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wave man

Appreciate the input, the relationship to the new stout F-250 suspension is the new issue of concern though, hhendrix had some real problems with almost the same setup I'll have and there are whispers of other people seeing the same. Has been discussed recently with several advising a lighter bat because of the problem and unique new circumstances... hence the concern

Understand. I have not noticed any difficulty with the F-250 suspension being too stiff.

As for the hitch load, consider the torque on a spring bar with a large tongue load being over rated to your set up; If the trailer is heavier, you will get more bounce~ potentially a problem in handling perhaps?

That is why, I believe, it is better to use the heavier bars if your tongue load is over the rating of your bars. But hey, that's just my current trend of thinking...

czunc · 09-27-2017, 09:29 AM

After pulling our Airstream this past weekend over 400 miles, I can tell you the F250 is the way to go. The truck didn't even come out of 6th gear when on the hwy. The only issue I had was with my hitch setup. I've had issues since transferring my Equalizer hitch over from the F150. We set the truck and trailer up so that everything was perfectly level. This meant the front of the truck had little change, the rear had 2" of drop and the trailer sat completely level. If I used 5 washers like on the F150, the front of the trailer would sit too high. We removed 1 washer and assumed everything was good but I don't think the bars had enough weight to function properly. The truck felt "squishy" in the rear when driving on the hwy not firm like the F150. I chalk this up to not enough load on the bars causing the majority of the trailer weight to be supported by the truck springs. This limits the sway reduction that the bars give. When we got back from our trip on Sunday, I lowered the hitch one hole and added the 5th washer back. I will try this setup before we head on our 700 mile trip next week.

So far i have a little over 600 miles on the truck and 400 of them are from towing. There is no doubt that the super duty will tow a tongue heavy airstream without a WD hitch. The adaptive cruise and trailer tps take the stress out of everything. We averaged 12.8 MPG towing at 72 mph

uncle_bob · 09-27-2017, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Understand. I have not noticed any difficulty with the F-250 suspension being too stiff.

....:

Hi

Compared to the F-250 of decades ago, the modern suspension is not anything I'd call stiff. It's not quite a luxury car, but it also is not the beast the old version had.

Roads have as much to do with beating a trailer to death as anything else. Here in PA we don't squander our money on useless things like paving on roads or repairing bridges. Rumor has it that some other states also fall into this category ....

Bob

slowmover · 09-29-2017, 05:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by czunc

A 200 lb guy hanging off a 36" breaker bar will get you in the ball park to torque the shank bolts. You should check the tightness every now and then anyway.

The adaptive cruise does activate the trailer brakes along with your exhaust brake if you have it activated. This is one of my favorite features and you will be surprised how much less stress you will feel when driving. Just set your cruise and all you have to do is sit back and steer. Let the truck keep up with traffic, it will even do a controlled panic stop if needed.

Most people go with the 3.55 gear ratio vs 3.31. The 3.31 will return slightly better fuel economy but I personally prefer the 3.55. When towing at hwy speed, your rpms are right in the 1800-2200 range which build enough torque so the the truck doesn't down shift or "hunt" for gears.

At what distance does the Adap C activate from the vehicle ahead?
200'?

And what is your TOTAL stopping distance? (Tested).

Slowing is easy, stopping is hard.

Besides, with traffic both ahead of you (close, at 200') and any traffic behind you PLUS traffic alongside, reliance on a gizmo is a bad idea.

Cancel cruise, is the best option. Re-engage when traffic is far away.

A combined rig is vulnerable. Use of cruise is for when one is "alone" on the road.

(And, "where" in operators literature is info about simultaneous trailer brake application? Thx)

.

Tsunami-v2 · 09-29-2017, 01:34 PM

Just installed one of these. Only need one for the driver side rear seat, if you want to utilize the small space behind the back seat. Was very simple to install. I'm storing some bug-out items. This is for the F-seires Ford pickups. Took about 5 minutes too install.

https://www.builtrightind.com/produc...r-seat-release

mikeinca · 09-29-2017, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowmover

Besides, with traffic both ahead of you (close, at 200') and any traffic behind you PLUS traffic alongside, reliance on a gizmo is a bad idea.

Cancel cruise, is the best option. Re-engage when traffic is far away.

A combined rig is vulnerable. Use of cruise is for when one is "alone" on the road.

Not to step on anyone's toes who uses adaptive cruise, but I tend to agree. No doubt the latest adaptive systems are wonders of electronic tech, just a couple of steps away from self driving vehicles, but they can't yet rival an attentive driver in all situations. I'm probably too old school; I only use CC when there is almost no other traffic around so for me the adaptive feature wouldn't be worth too much.

mikeinca · 09-29-2017, 02:56 PM

And just to clarify, I'm not saying you can't use adaptive cruise AND be attentive. But the systems I've used need to be fiddled with frequently to keep from annoying me as they react to various situations. Personal problem.

I just prefer to rely solely on my own instincts, especially in traffic.

Troutboy · 09-29-2017, 03:29 PM

I have adaptive cruise on my JGC and love it for commuting. I have tried it with the AS in tow and it's okay on long straight drives with no action. I don't use it when off highway or in traffic in highway. The response time scares me to trust it.

DRPREECE · 09-29-2017, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tsunami-v2

Just installed one of these. Only need one for the driver side rear seat, if you want to utilize the small space behind the back seat. Was very simple to install. I'm storing some bug-out items. This is for the F-seires Ford pickups. Took about 5 minutes too install.

https://www.builtrightind.com/produc...r-seat-release

Brilliant!