2017 Ford Super Duty

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by franklyfrank

I put a lot of effort into setting up my hitch.
If it is convenient I would weigh the rig with the current set up and do it again with the new set up and that will give you an accurate picture of how much weight you are transferring with either set up.
In my case I was taking too much of the rear axle and that made for an unstable drive.
Of course weighing a rig is not always very convenient but its worth the effort IMHO.

This may not even apply to your setup since I am using a Blue Ox. However when I went to the longer drop the fulcrum dropped lower. The WD set at the same tension as previously lifted the back of the truck higher. I noticed it right of way when setting the bar that it had a lot more tension on it. It took me a little while to figure it out. So please disregard my comment.

[czunc]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

The "angle" between the hitch and the trailer is what varies the WD on an Equalizer. If you raise the ball without fiddling washers, you change the angle and the WD. To ride level, the trailer hitch needs to be at a certain height off the ground. To high and the back scrapes even more often. To low and you bump the front more often.

So, simple answer: Get the ball height set to level the trailer. Then fiddle washers to do the WD. Then re-check the level to be sure it's still ok.

Bob

Which hitch did you use? I just switched from a F150 platinum to a F250 Platinum an I currently use an equalizer 4 point hitch.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by czunc

Which hitch did you use? I just switched from a F150 platinum to a F250 Platinum an I currently use an equalizer 4 point hitch.

Hi

Mine is just a dirt simple Equal-I-Zer. Nothing fancy about it at all. No claim from me that it is best, better, perfect, ideal, or optimum. It's just what I have.

Bob

[graysailor]

I also use the equalizer. Going from an F150 to F250 you most likely will need a longer shank (the vertical part) as the F250 sits a 2-4 inches higher then your F150. As Uncle BoB has said just get the ball and coupler as level as you can prior to hook up. With the F250 that is about all you have to do. I also have air bags so upon hooking the truck and trailer are about as level as one can get them. Be sure and get the 2 and 1/2" shank. Equalizer part # 90-02-4900.

[turk123]

Originally Posted by graysailor

I also use the equalizer. Going from an F150 to F250 you most likely will need a longer shank (the vertical part) as the F250 sits a 2-4 inches higher then your F150. As Uncle BoB has said just get the ball and coupler as level as you can prior to hook up. With the F250 that is about all you have to do. I also have air bags so upon hooking the truck and trailer are about as level as one can get them. Be sure and get the 2 and 1/2" shank. Equalizer part # 90-02-4900.

I have an f-150 platinum going up to the 250 plat. So this is the part number I need for my equalizer? I wanted to order it now as the truck is coming in a week or two.

[czunc]

Thanks! I did buy the equalizer shank #90-20-4900 but I have not switched the head over yet. Im planning on measuring from the top of the ball on the F150 and then swapping the head over and setting it a the same height. Most likely will need to remove a washer from the revit so it won't try to transfer as much weight as it did with the f150. Currently I run 4 washers when it was setup for the F150 so I figured I would start with 3 on the F250??

I may wind up changing the load bars latter because I have the 1200# bars. The 25FB has a very heavy tongue weight so the F150 needed the extra help. I doubt the F250 will need much.

[SCOTTinNJ]

I have a 2017 f250 4x4 with 30' trailer and 90-02-4300 shank. Sits level.

Same as the 90-02-4900 in drop but the 2" hitch size version instead of 2 1/2". I use the ford supplied sleeve.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

The F-250 can handle a 1500 pound tongue weight without a WD hitch. It can also tow any modern AS trailer without WD. That's not to say you *should* drop the WD / anti-sway stuff. It's just that the truck is rated to do so. I also would not count on putting a lot in the bed if you get rid of the WD.

Starting with the F-150 settings is fine, but they are two different trucks. I would plan on going through the whole standard setup procedure, including checks on a CAT scale. That way you know you have it right.

Bob

[hhendrix]

I may wind up changing the load bars latter because I have the 1200# bars. The 25FB has a very heavy tongue weight so the F150 needed the extra help. I doubt the F250 will need much.[/QUOTE]

I would seriously rethink and research the 1200# bars on switching to a stiffer suspension F250. My bars were the same on my F350 and they were way to stiff for my 27 FB. It was literally beating the AS to death and caused stress cracks at both lower corner of the front compartment door. There are threads here about too stiff bars used on a TV with a strong suspension. I think you could easily drop down to 600-800# bars as I did and still get the benefits of a WD system.

[czunc]

Originally Posted by hhendrix

I may wind up changing the load bars latter because I have the 1200# bars. The 25FB has a very heavy tongue weight so the F150 needed the extra help. I doubt the F250 will need much.

I would seriously rethink and research the 1200# bars on switching to a stiffer suspension F250. My bars were the same on my F350 and they were way to stiff for my 27 FB. It was literally beating the AS to death and caused stress cracks at both lower corner of the front compartment door. There are threads here about too stiff bars used on a TV with a strong suspension. I think you could easily drop down to 600-800# bars as I did and still get the benefits of a WD system.[/QUOTE]

We're you able to just buy new bars from Equalizer or did you have to switch the entire hitch? (Minus the shank) We do a lot of highway towing so I'm more concerned with sway control than the weight load.

[JMynes]

Originally Posted by czunc

Thanks! I did buy the equalizer shank #90-20-4900 but I have not switched the head over yet. Im planning on measuring from the top of the ball on the F150 and then swapping the head over and setting it a the same height. Most likely will need to remove a washer from the revit so it won't try to transfer as much weight as it did with the f150. Currently I run 4 washers when it was setup for the F150 so I figured I would start with 3 on the F250??

I may wind up changing the load bars latter because I have the 1200# bars. The 25FB has a very heavy tongue weight so the F150 needed the extra help. I doubt the F250 will need much.

Consider setting the ball height a little lower to start with. The F-250 isn't going to squat as much as the 150. Might save you a little time...

[hhendrix]

Originally Posted by czunc

We're you able to just buy new bars from Equalizer or did you have to switch the entire hitch? (Minus the shank) We do a lot of highway towing so I'm more concerned with sway control than the weight load.

I lucked out. The dealer just swapped me bars they had in stock. I'm sure you can just buy the bars. Contact the manufacturer or a hitch dealer.

[czunc]

Quick update, I measured my old hitch on the F150 and it came to 18 1/8" at the bottom of the base plate where the ball mounted and 23 3/4" at the top of the ball. I plan to unbolt the head unit and switch everything over to the longer shank of the F250 with the same measurements as everything was set on the F150. I'll let everyone know how it works out......

I keep my trailer 20 miles from my house so its hard to do test fits before towing. Much easier to do everything at the dealership where we have air tools.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by czunc

Quick update, I measured my old hitch on the F150 and it came to 18 1/8" at the bottom of the base plate where the ball mounted and 23 3/4" at the top of the ball. I plan to unbolt the head unit and switch everything over to the longer shank of the F250 with the same measurements as everything was set on the F150. I'll let everyone know how it works out......

I keep my trailer 20 miles from my house so its hard to do test fits before towing. Much easier to do everything at the dealership where we have air tools.

Hi

Some of the bolts on these hitches have crazy high torque specs on them. At least they are crazy high compared to the torque wrenches I have on the shelf. Torquing the nuts and bolts to the 500 ft-lb sort of specs it probably worth doing. I would not trust a random air tool to hit those sort of numbers. Great for pulling things apart though.

Bob

[czunc]

I agree that you can't trust air guns so we tightened everything with air and then used a large torque wrench to achieve the required 320 ft#.

I did get to tow the trailer 20 miles today from storage. You could hardly tell the Airstream was back there and ours is fully loaded. (maybe too much stuff) When I got back to the dealership I measured everything and found the front of trailer was sitting way too high so I dissembled and lowered everything one hole. This put the trailer almost level along with the truck sitting level with out the bars installed. If I hooked the bars up, it would try to lift the rear of the truck. This was with 5 washers so I removed 1 washer and everything seems to be sitting good now. The trailer is within a 1/2" front to rear and the truck is sitting an 1 3/4" lower in the rear. Nothing really changes in the front no matter what you do. We are taking a trip this weekend so I will see how it rides at hwy speeds. I may try to stop at a scale to see what everything looks like.

The good news for anyone with a new super duty is, the equalizer #90-02-4900 fits perfect and leaves you plenty of room for adjustments. I'm guessing you can still use this hitch setup even if you go to larger wheels / tires and maybe a 4" lift. I have mine set in the middle

[graysailor]

After tightening as best I can I use a long breaker bar to tighten some more. There is a formula which I do not recall that a given length of the breaker bar will give x amount of torque. The very high end torque wrenches are simply to expensive to only use very occasionally.

[hhendrix]

new questions:

1. Does the "Adaptive Cruise Control" (which on my Escape) activate the trailer brakes too

2. Has anyone experienced or research the difference between the 3.31 and the 3.55 axles with regards to performance or mileage?

[czunc]

A 200 lb guy hanging off a 36" breaker bar will get you in the ball park to torque the shank bolts. You should check the tightness every now and then anyway.

The adaptive cruise does activate the trailer brakes along with your exhaust brake if you have it activated. This is one of my favorite features and you will be surprised how much less stress you will feel when driving. Just set your cruise and all you have to do is sit back and steer. Let the truck keep up with traffic, it will even do a controlled panic stop if needed.

Most people go with the 3.55 gear ratio vs 3.31. The 3.31 will return slightly better fuel economy but I personally prefer the 3.55. When towing at hwy speed, your rpms are right in the 1800-2200 range which build enough torque so the the truck doesn't down shift or "hunt" for gears.

[Troutboy]

I use this for high torque applications. I'm not sure how accurate, it's close at the lower ends when I test it against my normal torque wrench. It's not that expensive, much cheaper than the real deal, and gets me there.

I'm a tool geek, so always looking for an excuse to buy a new tool. This seemed more reasonable than forking out $$$ for a normal torque wrench at the higher capacity.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[graysailor]

Often times Ford picks the rear end ratio for you. I ended up with the 3.55's and am very pleased. Plenty of acceleration with modest fuel economy. Yes, you can't beat the adaptive cruise control along with the engine brake. Almost never need to brake except at stop lights.