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Old 03-11-2014, 09:04 AM   #1
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2011 Chevy 2500HD factory brake controller

Hi all newbie here and need some advice. We just purchased our first AS last fall and also updated the TV. The AS is 1000 miles away and in storage waiting to come home. I've learned here that my factory brake controller will not work with the disks brakes on the AS, and that some folks have wired a set of magnets as a work around for the IBC system. I really don't want to buy an aftermarket controller unless I have to. (My time will be limited when i get there and need to have all my ducks in a row.) So my question is can someone show me how they wired in this configuration and what I need to do to make it work. My search has only come up with that you splice a pair of magnets somewhere. Thanks in advance to all.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:13 AM   #2
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Put a pair of magnets in parallel in the blue brake wire line. That will fool,the controller into working.
The way you do it is to take one wire from each magnet and splice into the blue wire, and the other wire from each magnet goes to ground.
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Old 03-11-2014, 12:08 PM   #3
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Thanks so much 63. Blue for brake control and white for ground. Where do you suggest mounting the magnets and tieing in at? I would think not on the truck side, and I assume before the actuater, and what size magnets were used. I see that there is different Ohms between the 7in and 10in and 12in.
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Old 03-11-2014, 01:57 PM   #4
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Terry,

I think I understand the "fooler magnets" but wow, why should you have too? The Chevy doesn't have a setting, ouch.

Gary
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Old 03-11-2014, 01:58 PM   #5
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You can also put some resistors in parallel between the blue wire and ground and it will do the same thing as the magnets. A lot smaller, easier, and cleaner to do. Probably cheaper also. I had to do that to make the controller in my '12 Ram 2500 recognize the brakes, and I used two 25 ohm, 25 watt resistors from Radio Shack. Don't know if you have the same actuator as I, but the actuator and the wiring is in the front storage compartment behind the propane bottles in our trailer, and that's where I put the resistors.
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Old 03-11-2014, 02:01 PM   #6
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Dodge too? Ouchies.
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Old 03-11-2014, 02:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Dodge too? Ouchies.
The Dodge will work with some actuators, but not the one I have because it has a diode in the input, and the Dodge controller puts out a negative pulse to check continuity and the diode makes the controller "think" the brakes are not connected, and so won't work at all.

Mine is an Actibrake, but the Dodge will work with a Dexter (we tried it at a rally with a friend's trailer).
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Old 03-11-2014, 02:46 PM   #8
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Steve,
Yes, In my research when I heard about the magnets as a load, then why not just a resistor. When you troubleshoot brakes, you check the magnets for resistance, if not there replace them. But wasn't sure about voltage drop etc with this configuration. How did you come to the 25/25 resistors?
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Old 03-11-2014, 03:15 PM   #9
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Steve,
Yes, In my research when I heard about the magnets as a load, then why not just a resistor. When you troubleshoot brakes, you check the magnets for resistance, if not there replace them. But wasn't sure about voltage drop etc with this configuration. How did you come to the 25/25 resistors?
I experimented with several different resistances because I wanted the highest resistance that would let the controller recognize the brakes so power would not be shunted away from the actuator unnecessarily.

A brake magnet is about 4 ohms, maybe a little less, and two of them in parallel with the actuator would be less than a 2 ohm shunt to rob power from the actuator.

I have not tried the 2 25 ohm resistors with the GM controller, only the Dodge, but the way I see it whatever resistance it takes to make the controller happy, resistors are much easier to work with, and make a cleaner, smaller installation.
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Old 03-11-2014, 03:33 PM   #10
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Ok, makes sense. I'l take various resistors with me and see what works when I get there. A small clean foot print is the way to go. Thanks
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