2006 Dodge 2500 4x4 - Tow bar setup

[Treker2015]

Hi All,

First post, we bought a 2015 28 Flying Cloud. The dealership setup an e2 weight distribution hitch for us. The front of the trailer frame sits 4" higher than the rear of the frame. Trailer is empty, propane tanks as well.

That does not look right to me. We did tow it 40 miles, and it did track OK.

The dealer said when the truck and trailer are loaded, it will level out. In the attached picture, the truck had full tanks, and a reserve tank in the bed (total ~70 gal diesel). My opinion, I'd have to put a LOT of weight in the truck/trailer to get it level.

My questions are:
1) Does this look like a correct setup?

2) If not, how would we correct?

3) There is no sway bar with this setup. What are pros and cons? (I've done a lot of towing)

Thank you,
Steve

[Al and Missy]

I think you are correct, but I'm not familiar with that hitch. You didnt say which engine, but with my 2013 2500 Cummins the rear didnt squat much from unhitched to hitched. The best thing to do is load it, check the level, and set up the hitch. Short of that, I'd lower it half way (2") or more. If I remember correctly it is better to be a little tongue low than high.

Al

[Alumaholic]

Can't see the picture.
But from your written description, the hitch is set up incorrectly.
Correctly installed, load-distribution hitch will have the trailer sitting level and the truck "squatting" equally.

In other words, front suspension of truck and rear suspension will receive a roughly equal distribution of the tongue weight of the trailer.

It is convenient to measure the distance from top edge of fender of front and rear fender wells of truck and the ground before and after weight distribution. Pleas try again to send us a picture. We can help.

[Treker2015]

Thanks for your reply. It has the 5.9 l diesel... and a long bed. I've towed a 13,000# fifth wheel with this truck. It actually sits fairly level without the distribution bars attached.

Here are pictures:
http://1drv.ms/1j89siW

Unfortunately, it appears that the hitch is at the bottom of the height adjustment.

Thinking about using a standard bar/ball and airbags to level it out. Thoughts?

[Alumaholic]

Yes, your hitch head is at the bottom. Unfortunately, it looks like they sold you what they had instead of what you needed.
From the pictures it appears you need a weight distribution adjustable shank with a longer drop (not surprising, I had to buy one for my 3/4 ton Silverado HD).

You really do want a properly set up weight distribution hitch.
Find somone like me in or around St. George who can help you set it up for your rig.
Your dealer should swap out that shank for one that works.

[Treker2015]

>>Unfortunately, it looks like they sold you what they had instead of what you needed.

Thank you Ken, will look for a replacement shank.

[Bill M.]

My 2500 5.9 Dodge short bed 4/4 moves about 1" down when the 900 lb tongue weight is added to it. No reasonable amount of load in the trailer or truck seems to move it more than another half inch or so. I have a shank or drawbar with a 6" drop and the hitch is 1 hole from the bottom. I had to order the drawbar but later found bars with a big drop at Northern Hyd. I think you need to re do it, Even if it seems to pull okay, which I sorta doubt it will under bad conditions, you want the load as evenly distributed between the 2 axles. A do not know what a e2 wight distribution hitch is so I cannot comment on it. But I do know the trailer should sit level and my bias is that if it is off an 1" between the front and the back it should be low in the front, not the back.

[The Ice Man]

Ditto to everything said above. You need to drop the front. Unmentioned is the fact that your setup transfers more load to the rear axle and lightens the front axle. Once you get the correct shank, it's not a far drive for you to go down to Congress, AZ for the Escapees SafeWeight measurements. Mark Nemeth of Escapees is the wizard of weights. In my case, even though the heights all looked correct to within 1/2 inch, Mark had me drop the hitch 1 inch and the front/rear axle weights went from 1200/1775 (per side) to 1500/1500 (the scales are accurate to 25 lbs). The 1 inch drop in the hitch was unnoticeable on the carpenter's level (1" in 28 ') but made a difference in the ride, and no doubt in tire stress as well.

[m.hony]

That setup is not right. The trailer should be as close to dead level as possible.
Nose up is bad- the worst case scenario. Nose up causes sway and is transferring no weight to the front axle. There is not enough weight on the tongue/bumper when the trailer is higher in the front. Also, the rear of the trailer will bottom out quicker/sooner/easier with the nose high.
If it is not possible to get the trailer dead level, slightly nose down is OK. Slightly nose down still has weight distribution and sway control.

[Treker2015]

Thank you all for your replies... Ice Man, I am no longer an Escapees member, would Mark still help me out?

[Jacob D]

For me a big reason the rear should not be lower than the front is when navigating from one road into an inclined drive way or connecting street the rear of the trailer will drag putting stress on the frame and damaging the rear end and possibly the pavement. An old hand once said to me the front end should be one to two inches lower than the rear for that reason.

[The Ice Man]

Steve, Mark is about as gracious as they come. I'm confident he'll respond to your email. I think the only difference between being a member and not is the amount they charge for SmartWeight. I can't recall, but you might be able to save enough to pay / renew your membership.

[SuzyHomemakr]

My 2004 diesel RAM 2500 (similar truck, I think?) was very tail-high when I purchased it used. I had my mechanic remove the tall spacer blocks over the rear axle, and now the truck itself sits very level. My hitch is adjustable, and is at its lowest setting. Trailer rides nice and level!