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Old 12-14-2017, 08:33 PM   #1
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2013 28' International
Bozeman , Montana
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'17 F250/350 Propride question

I'm wondering if those of you that have a new F250 or F350 using a Propride hitch, if you are using the extended drop hitch end for your PP stinger?

I was all set to order a new extended drop with getting my new F350 since the truck sits up so high (3" higher receiver then the '16 and earlier Superduties). With checking with Propride, I was told that I needed the extend reach. However, another Airforums member sent me a pic of his stinger with a similar set up and it looks like the regular one, not extended.

Unfortunately, my trailer is 800 miles away in storage and I need to figure out what to order if anything before I head down with the new vehicle.

Thanks!
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Old 12-14-2017, 09:54 PM   #2
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I don't think you need the extended drop.

I have a '17 F250 Platinum with FX4 off road package. I have the propride with the regular drop stinger (adjusted to the maximum drop). My 2017 30' FC Bunk rides very level, with possibly just a slight dip forward (intentional), but it really just depends how much I tighten the jacks...

See pics of the stinger.

I have about 12000 miles on this setup.

[Edit - i misread your post - sounds like your propride is already installed, but I'll leave the following in case anyone else finds it useful]
When you install the propride, use a round metal file to bore out a hole out of the slots in the propane carrier to install the u-bolts. You don't need to drill. Also, bring a grease zerk gun - a small tube of lube is plenty, but you'll need some for the ball too.
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Old 12-14-2017, 11:50 PM   #3
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Fort Worth , Texas
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Originally Posted by marcesq View Post
. . My 2017 30' FC Bunk rides very level, with possibly just a slight dip forward (intentional), but it really just depends how much I tighten the jacks...
Next time at the CAT Scale talk to the Scalemaster about doing an axle split. Not all are familiar, but the procedure is part of the CAT Scale manual kept at the desk. Essentially, he or she will let you know when to stop when each one of the trailer tandem axles is represented on two adjoining scale segments. Repeat passes are $2/ea.

Your “intentional” nose-down attitude needs fixing (especially if the alternative was nose-high). . It’s the default magic one ton mistake where the TT winds up bouncing down the highway on the front axle. Rule One of Airstream hitch-rigging is a dead level TT. All else depends from it. It’s a highway cliche to see Bouncing Betty.

A carpenters level across the doorway threshold is the check. The entire TT is built from this dimension. Don’t expect the A-frame to be “level” with what’s needed.

Do the rest of the Three Pass Method as usual.


To the OP: since the hitch came on the market in 2007 Sean has been consistent in knowing answers concerning his product.

.
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Old 12-15-2017, 01:25 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by marcesq View Post
I don't think you need the extended drop.

I have a '17 F250 Platinum with FX4 off road package. I have the propride with the regular drop stinger (adjusted to the maximum drop). My 2017 30' FC Bunk rides very level, with possibly just a slight dip forward (intentional), but it really just depends how much I tighten the jacks...

See pics of the stinger.

I have about 12000 miles on this setup.
Thanks for the info.I'm pretty sure I'll be fine with the regular drop from what I'm seeing. Yes, the hitch is installed on the Airstream, I just switched out the truck.
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Old 12-15-2017, 01:29 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
Next time at the CAT Scale talk to the Scalemaster about doing an axle split. Not all are familiar, but the procedure is part of the CAT Scale manual kept at the desk. Essentially, he or she will let you know when to stop when each one of the trailer tandem axles is represented on two adjoining scale segments. Repeat passes are $2/ea.

Your “intentional” nose-down attitude needs fixing (especially if the alternative was nose-high). . It’s the default magic one ton mistake where the TT winds up bouncing down the highway on the front axle. Rule One of Airstream hitch-rigging is a dead level TT. All else depends from it. It’s a highway cliche to see Bouncing Betty.

A carpenters level across the doorway threshold is the check. The entire TT is built from this dimension. Don’t expect the A-frame to be “level” with what’s needed.

Do the rest of the Three Pass Method as usual.


To the OP: since the hitch came on the market in 2007 Sean has been consistent in knowing answers concerning his product.

.
Good thoughts with doing the axle splits. I do check my tires often while driving, either PSI or with an inferred thermometer, and have always had consistent readings. If I was way overloading side to side or fore and aft I would think I would detect it. However, actual weights would be nice.

Regarding putting a level in the doorway, any good suggestions on verifying you are on level ground?
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Old 12-15-2017, 01:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadWest View Post
Good thoughts with doing the axle splits. I do check my tires often while driving, either PSI or with an inferred thermometer, and have always had consistent readings. If I was way overloading side to side or fore and aft I would think I would detect it. However, actual weights would be nice.

Regarding putting a level in the doorway, any good suggestions on verifying you are on level ground?
Use the same level to check ground.
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Old 12-15-2017, 03:09 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by AlinCal View Post
Use the same level to check ground.
The “rule” on big trucks using a scale is not to engage parking brake (which we do automatically if out of gear and off street).

A CAT Scale is Level in and of itself. The truck won’t roll away.

what it will take to get that last bit of “tip” on the TT to itself be level can be a minor PITA. But braking is the thing. The front axle of a tandem already loads heavy in braking. Keeping the rear as closely engaged is the thing.
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Old 12-16-2017, 09:17 AM   #8
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Bob,

Since I sent you that picture, I have logged about 1000 miles. I still have one hole left to go lower if I needed to. But over this last trip, I was observing at each stop the pitch of the trailer and it is essentially perfectly level. If I were to make any change, it would be to go up one, not down.

I will also add that the rig is amazing. With each tow, I grow to like the setup more. Heading from Phoenix to Sedona there is a pretty long and steep downhill grade and the exhaust brake and suspension were great.
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Old 12-16-2017, 07:14 PM   #9
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The higher you hitch the lower the trailer rear. You know, the end that drags.
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Old 12-20-2017, 03:37 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Wanna EB View Post
Bob,

Since I sent you that picture, I have logged about 1000 miles. I still have one hole left to go lower if I needed to. But over this last trip, I was observing at each stop the pitch of the trailer and it is essentially perfectly level. If I were to make any change, it would be to go up one, not down.

I will also add that the rig is amazing. With each tow, I grow to like the setup more. Heading from Phoenix to Sedona there is a pretty long and steep downhill grade and the exhaust brake and suspension were great.
Thanks again for the pic. I'm really happy to hear how well it all has worked out for you. We are off to Sedona right after we grab our trailer in Vegas in a couple of weeks. Are you in the area for awhile?
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