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Old 04-13-2003, 10:29 PM   #1
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Cool "Store-Use" SWitch

When my "Store-Use" Switch is in the store mode it is still possible to run the power jack and light that is mounted of it. Someone recently ran my batteries down while it was stored by turning on the light on the jack. Is this the way it's supposed to be wired?
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Old 04-14-2003, 07:07 AM   #2
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Disconnect

My disconnect disables the power jack.

My last check when I drop the trailer off at the storage yard is to hit the switch on the jack. If it doesn't work, I know that I remembered to turn off the battery disconnect inside.
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Old 04-14-2003, 07:29 AM   #3
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Thanks. I like your way better. Airstream replied to me that they do it the way I have it so I don't have to go into the trailer to turn on the switch. I'll have to look into rewirind it your way.
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Old 04-15-2003, 09:48 PM   #4
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I wonder if the dealer added your power jack and wired it directly to the battery. My power jack on my old SOB was wired by the dealer to the battery. My factory installed power jack on my Safari is dead once I turn the master disconnect to the off position.

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Old 04-15-2003, 10:04 PM   #5
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All off switch

I have an old Airstream and the power jack is cooked. I just use my manpower to get a little exercise.
The wiring in all Airstreams is not created equal. The power jack feature is a amp hungry device. The switch that controls power to trailer with no jack may be different. Using a power jack with a low battery will surely destroy the motor.
In the electrical world, there is a direct comparison between amps versus volts and a childs see-saw. One side goes down and one goes up. In electricity, as voltage drops, the amps gets higher.
If a device draws 20 amps at 12 volts....... at 11.5 volts , it will draw 32 amps. The most destructive force in any 12 electric is LOW voltage....
A fully charged battery makes a happy RV. A lead acid battery loses about 6% of the charge while sitting at rest per month.....
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Old 04-15-2003, 10:05 PM   #6
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The reponses have been interesting!

I asked Airstream directly about this and they said yes, they wire to the battery. However another reply from someone to this posting said their switch killed the jack.

My answer is, if you buy it from the Airstream factory they do it like it should be done, the switch kills the jack, but if you get it installed by a daler, they take he easy way out!

Of course Airstream will back up their dealers, as the reponse I recieved from them proves.

Thanks for your response.
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Old 04-15-2003, 10:15 PM   #7
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Other jack wiring possabilities??

Here are some other wiring choices.
Guy orders trailer with no power jack, gets old and tired, wants power jack, goes to a RV shop and jack is installed.
Trailer owner has no preference for wiring.
Guy looks at Ebay alot. Discovers power jack real cheap. Bids and buys same. Neighbor wires jack.
My opinion is that power jacks should only be powered by tow vehicle. If the tow vehicle can drive to the trailer, the battery should be fully charged. O)K, I know the rebuttal........hahaha
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Old 04-16-2003, 08:27 AM   #8
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Jack wirering

Recently installed a Campers world best power hitch, I don't recall at this moment what it is called. The directions say to wire it directly to the battery. But on a 2001 27 ft safari if you look inside the hole on the inside of the tongue. Several inches from the "V" among the other wirers you will find a heavy brown wire. I had to use a coat hanger and make a hook to dig in there and fish it out but Airstream had it prewired. They had it bent back so it looked like it went somewhere, but with a little muscle it came out about 2 feet. A tip would be to put a wire brush in a drill and sand off the point that the hitch is bolted to so that you have a good ground. If it is not grounded well than it will blow fuses occasionally.
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Old 04-16-2003, 09:07 AM   #9
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Power jack

My power jack is on its own 20 amp fuse and is listed as a 20 amp draw in the manual. The light on the hitch is listed as a half amp draw. Running the motor with the light on is a slight overdraw on the fuse, but it hasn't blown the fuse yet in the several night hookups I have done.

OTOH, the International tongue weight is only about 600# and the motor probably isn't working very hard.

BTW, when hooking up alone in the dark, I have found that the hitch light is a real help in getting lined up and in estimating the distance.
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Old 04-16-2003, 09:38 AM   #10
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I forgot about the 30amp fuse

My factoring installed brown wire 12 guage was wired to a 20 fuse and had another brown 14 guage wire wired to the same fuse. Not sure what the 14 guage wire is? I left the 14 guage wire there and wired the 12 guage (hitch wire) to a new 30 amp braker(had room in the box) that the heavy duty hitch called for. It blew th fuse emediatly with the 20 amp fuse but with the 30 amp fuse worked fine after I ground the area between the hitch and the frame to get a good ground.
Works fine now.
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Old 04-17-2003, 02:07 PM   #11
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Re: Power jack

Quote:
Originally posted by Pahaska
My power jack is on its own 20 amp fuse and is listed as a 20 amp draw in the manual. The light on the hitch is listed as a half amp draw. Running the motor with the light on is a slight overdraw on the fuse, but it hasn't blown the fuse yet in the several night hookups I have done.

OTOH, the International tongue weight is only about 600# and the motor probably isn't working very hard.

BTW, when hooking up alone in the dark, I have found that the hitch light is a real help in getting lined up and in estimating the distance.
So that's what that silly little light is for!!!!
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