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Old 09-19-2014, 04:47 PM   #1
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2002 27' Safari
buckholts , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2014
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storage area leak

Every time it rains, which isn't very often, I have a wet area in the left, field side, storage compartment. The rubber gasket is still pliable and fits good around the inside opening. Where else could water get in? Anyone had this prob or one similar? I'll try anything because the plywood floor wll eventually rot.
Thanks,
Linwood
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Old 09-19-2014, 05:19 PM   #2
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2005 25' Safari
Salem , Oregon
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Welcome to the forum.

Hi, although my storage door only leaked cold air in under my bed, I fixed it with two rows of "D" shaped weather seal around the edge of the storage door. I have a nice tight seal of my storage door now and no leaks. The factory door seal is almost useless. When closed, I could easily push my door in about 1/2" or more.
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Old 09-19-2014, 05:20 PM   #3
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2000 25' Safari
Davidson County , NC Highlands County, FL
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Water runs downhill. Anything leaking on the roof might get to the interior skin then run down to the floor. Start at the roof fan and work your way down. Check the plastic plumbing vent flashings and replace if cracked any. Check caulking all metal lap joints, window perimeters, and the outside perimeter of the hatch.

Where the end caps overlap the side walls, near the ends of the awnings are notorious for leaking near the end of the gutter rail.

The metal plate on the rear bumper storage runs through the rear beneath the wall. This is does leak unless someone has removed the rub rail and caulked it.

The screws that hold the awning brackets can work loose. If they are loose remove them and coat with caulk before reinstalling them. Then caulk the top edges of the brackets.

I'll bet on the roof fan or the plumbing vents.
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Old 09-19-2014, 05:26 PM   #4
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2014 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Chelsea , Michigan
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Panoramic windows are notorious for leaks. If you have such a window above or nearly above the wet area, then that would be my #1 suspect. Check the caulking around any window or other penetration through the aluminum trailer skin that is above or nearly above the wet spot and be prepared to caulk as required.

Good luck, and you are right to be concerned.

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Old 11-13-2014, 05:56 PM   #5
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1972 31' Sovereign
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felton , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
Water runs downhill. Anything leaking on the roof might get to the interior skin then run down to the floor. Start at the roof fan and work your way down. Check the plastic plumbing vent flashings and replace if cracked any. Check caulking all metal lap joints, window perimeters, and the outside perimeter of the hatch.

Where the end caps overlap the side walls, near the ends of the awnings are notorious for leaking near the end of the gutter rail.

The metal plate on the rear bumper storage runs through the rear beneath the wall. This is does leak unless someone has removed the rub rail and caulked it.

The screws that hold the awning brackets can work loose. If they are loose remove them and coat with caulk before reinstalling them. Then caulk the top edges of the brackets.

I'll bet on the roof fan or the plumbing vents.
pluming vents for sure, i just got some new gaskets from Inland Rv, one must have been leaking for years, the flooring where water had trickled down the pipe had totally rotted away. New gasket and 100% sealed now.
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:59 PM   #6
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1972 31' Sovereign
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felton , California
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here's a pic i took

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Old 11-13-2014, 08:48 PM   #7
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2002 30' Classic S/O
Fleming Island , Florida
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I washed my trailer today and when I opened the roadside rear storage locker, water had been running down the inside of the door. Very little wetness inside the compartment, but obviously the door seal leaked. I went to check the locking lever for tightness and the whole lever and shaft pulled out about 1/4". At first I thought it needed replacing but it turned out it ust needed the screw that held the lever on tightened. It felt really tight, but wasn't screwed all the way in. I was afraid of stripping something out, but it finally got tighter and the lever wiggle went away. Then the door wouldn't lock. I had to bend the lever out a little. On of the PO's must have bent it down trying to stop the leak.

Al
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Old 11-14-2014, 10:24 AM   #8
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1972 31' Sovereign
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felton , California
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water getting into the rear plumbing inspection hatch

[ATTACH]226495[/ATTACH
i think water can get in from the bumper / storage lid area into the inspection compartment (if that makes sense .?!)

best way to seal? simply run caulking along the outside seam ?

not a great picture, but this is plumping / black water valve access area .. looks like rain water seeped in somehow, there is no long term rot here but bear in mind i recently purchased this and the trailer had spent it's entire life in So Cal .. mainly dry & hot. It's now in Nor Cal mountains, wet & damp much of the winter!
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Old 12-27-2018, 06:37 PM   #9
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2002 25' Safari
Courtland , Ontario
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Harley Davidson

I don't know where to post this but here I am. I want to put my Harley through the entrance door to haul it to Arizona. I will remove the crash bars, tour pacs and bat wing...all fairly easy on a Road King. I have an aluminum ramp and I have 94 inches to just get it in. Door opening width is 26 inches....i know we should have sprung for the Eddie Bauer. What say? anyone out there have any suggestions or lets here from the nay sayers. I've hauled it to Florida in my Town and Country, but had to mount a smaller front wheel to get it thru the opening.
Another querie….is it possible to retrofit a rear door like the EB model. Pretty handy with fabbing and would be a great winter project.
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Old 12-27-2018, 08:57 PM   #10
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1986 25' Sovereign
2008 F350, 6.4L diesel , Oak Harbor, WA
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We had that leak on our 25 footer. It turned out to be the window frame to trailer top seal.
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