What size Equal-i-zer Hitch Do You Use?

[claybags]

Well, I've been following this thread with a lot of interest also. Here, FWIW, are a couple answers from Josh Jones at Equal-I-zer that I had. Choose the hitch that best suits your trailer's GVWR. Always go up one if the GVRW is somewhere in between hitch ratings. That initial choice of hitch will determine the spring bar rate as they are NOT INTERCHANGEABLE on an Equal-i-zer hitch! The bars, socket size, and hitch are a matched set. Josh's advice was simply change the bracket height to adjust the bar loading, the hitch angle, the hitch height, whatever, to get the proper weight distribution et al. The Equal-i-zer is almost infinately adjustable. The liability question pops up if you are using too light a hitch just to gain some advantage with the lighter spring bars. In this scenario, say using the 6000# hitch and 600# bars on your Trailer with a 6800# GVWR( or in my case , 7200# GVWR). These comments apply solely to the Equal-i-zer hitch.
Maybe this is all a rehash of info, or maybe it's of some use, but it cleared it up for me.
Cheers, Jeff

[dmac]

I believe that each size rating of Equal-i-zer hitch uses a different physical size of weight distribution bars (in cross section). It is concievable that you could use a heavier rated hitch with lighter bars if you had fittings made to allow the smaller bars to physically fit into the oversize sockets, or perhaps you could purchase the smaller sized sockets and install them on the heavier hitch. I expect that this would not recommended by the manufacturer.

[claybags]

Dan,
Yeah, that was my ?? to Josh Jones. As he stated, the sockets match the hitch head, ie you cannot put 600# bar sockets in a 10000# hitch. Any variation from their format is not recommended aaand probably not covered in any warranty, liability issues.
Cheers, Jeff

[Phil Gobie]

Fortunately for me the Reese hitch is rated to 12,000# and tongue weight to 1200# The head is also adjustable for height. So basically I just need to determine the best spring bars and adjust the head height.

[claybags]

Hi Phil,
Lucky you!! I guess the next jump up is to a HAHA where you apparently don't have all these issues. Maybe next year........
Cheers, Jeff

[alvinator]

Still haven't seen an opinion on the Hensley; our 2006 34 Classic with Hensley has 1200# bars that are quite bent when loaded. The Hensley also moves quite a bit from side to side while flying down the highway; I guess if I don't bounce it apart then I will surely pull it apart!

[alvinator]

Originally Posted by alvinator

Still haven't seen an opinion on the Hensley; our 2006 34 Classic with Hensley has 1200# bars that are quite bent when loaded. The Hensley also moves quite a bit from side to side while flying down the highway; I guess if I don't bounce it apart then I will surely pull it apart!

Oops! Our Hensley has 1400# bars, a whole lot more shakin' goin on!

[Phil Gobie]

I talked to a Tec from Reese. I had a 40 min. conversation discussing the bar weights and tongue weights and there recommendations. It was vary clarifying for me. 1st I was amazed at how my tongue weight changes with the level adjustments of the trailer. as the tongue goes up the weight goes up exponentially. So as we weigh our trailers and the ball heights change so the tongue weight changes. Also he explained that all of the weight of the bed that is behind the axle has to be counted as tongue weight! So as I load my bed with a motorcycle and load the trailer things are changing as to the spring bar weights. The bottom line is if you don't check your tongue weights and count what is loaded behind the axle the bar weight rating is just a guess from trip to trip. I think for me I will be buying a 1200# set and eventually I my end up with all three weights. They come in 600#, 800# & 1200#. I discussed what Andy's concerns are about being over sprung and causing damage to the trailer. Also about the difference in bar ratings for different tow vehicles. He agrees with the concept. In the end there is no simple answer and all the conditions and load weights need to be taken into consideration.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Phil Gobie

I talked to a Tec from Reese. I had a 40 min. conversation discussing the bar weights and tongue weights and there recommendations. It was vary clarifying for me. 1st I was amazed at how my tongue weight changes with the level adjustments of the trailer. as the tongue goes up the weight goes up exponentially. So as we weigh our trailers and the ball heights change so the tongue weight changes. Also he explained that all of the weight of the bed that is behind the axle has to be counted as tongue weight! So as I load my bed with a motorcycle and load the trailer things are changing as to the spring bar weights. The bottom line is if you don't check your tongue weights and count what is loaded behind the axle the bar weight rating is just a guess from trip to trip. I think for me I will be buying a 1200# set and eventually I my end up with all three weights. They come in 600#, 800# & 1200#. I discussed what Andy's concerns are about being over sprung and causing damage to the trailer. Also about the difference in bar ratings for different tow vehicles. He agrees with the concept. In the end there is no simple answer and all the conditions and load weights need to be taken into consideration.

Also a change of bar rating is necessary when you change the tow vehicle, trunk/bed weights.

Andy

[SilverCabin]

Just a quick post on this thread to let everyone know my Equal-i-zer performed extremely well. The dealer installed the 10,000#/1,000# model (in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations) for my 23' Safari SE that has a 6,000# GVW and 600# tongue weight. After hitching up, I jumped up on the hitch to see how much bounce there was. I was able to generate about an inch of up and down movement.

The two pulls I did last weekend (Tampa to Kissimmee and Kissimmee to Viera) took about 2 hours and 1.5 hours respectively. Both days were in gusty winds (25 - 35 mph) and I was pulling at 60 - 65 mph, on 4-lane US Highways and Interstates. The Airstream tracked beautifully behind my TV. I could feel the wind buffeting us, but we didn't move from our track. The blast from passing 18-wheelers didn't cause any motion. I am very pleased.

My only comment is that the hitch is noisy. You hear a lot of creaks and groans as you turn down streets or make other slow speed maneuvers. The dealer said this would diminish as the hitch wore in.

PS: I'll post more details on my purchasing experience, shakedown trip, and photos on the Safari forum later this week.

[dbradhstream]

Randy - I suspect I know what happened to you and I suspect its the same thing that happened to me. I bought my AS and Equalizer at Bates AS near Tampa, I suspect you did too. The shop manager told me NOT to grease the Equalizer so we took 3 or 4 trips with the AS creaking and groaning like a worn out old battleship. It was so loud folks would look weird at us as we pulled into the campgrounds.

Please see the Equalizer website or owner's manual. It expressly says that you SHOULD grease the hitch and that you MAY grease the bars themselves. Do that and you'll be towing in peace and quiet. I use a marine grade hitch lube that works great.

Brad

[SilverCabin]

Originally Posted by dbradhstream

Randy - I suspect I know what happened to you and I suspect its the same thing that happened to me. I bought my AS and Equalizer at Bates AS near Tampa, I suspect you did too. The shop manager told me NOT to grease the Equalizer so we took 3 or 4 trips with the AS creaking and groaning like a worn out old battleship. It was so loud folks would look weird at us as we pulled into the campgrounds.

Please see the Equalizer website or owner's manual. It expressly says that you SHOULD grease the hitch and that you MAY grease the bars themselves. Do that and you'll be towing in peace and quiet. I use a marine grade hitch lube that works great.

Brad

Brad,

Correct on both counts. Thanks for the tip. I'll check the manual, and make a trip to the marine store this weekend.

[jcanavera]

Well my Equal-i-zer didn't get much quieter with time. My Reese dual cam also creaked and moaned at low speed, but for all intents I didn't worry about it. Yeah everyone looks up at you but at least they will stay clear of you since they can hear you coming!

Jack

[tyggeln]

Reading this thread has been an education, and I won't weigh in as to who I think is right. All I can say is that I have been a strict follower of both the Airstream manual and the Equalizer manual. Boo hoo on me for not doing more research before towing off the lot however.

I have a 2005 28' CCD with unloaded tongue weight of 880#. I have towed with the following:

1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee (too small - with 600# bars - both too small dealer said it was OK. With 800# bars was able to visibly distribute weight to front and back of vehicle. Physics makes sense here.)

2005 Dodge Durango 5.7 Hemi (rated vehicle tongue weight 900#; towed with 1000# and 1200# bars as my tongue weight was creeping up when loaded). Minor stability issues, possible flexure as it seemed I needed to add more spacers to distribute weight).

2007 GMC Yukon 3/4 ton (tongue rating excess of 1000#...no stability issues). Never seem to be able to distribute weight but vehicle has little give - can't add more spacers).

Comes down to the observation that my tank cover always seemed to cant backwards. Now the reason is clear that my A-frame must be bent. I will do a front/back/middle measurement to confirm. Have two questions/thoughts:

1) If I have followed manufacturers instructions, then would it seem that the Airstream A-frame is undersized for the loads experienced? Is there a max tongue rating for the Airstream? 10-15% of 7300# is around 1100#.

2) I have weighed the entire rig before and was within GVWR as I had concerns when the hitch would no longer distribute the load. But is it possible have the rear end flexed in the opposite direction from heavy storage under the queen bed 250# max due to telescope storage under bed?

I wonder if AS has undersized the frame members. Then things begin to make sense.

As a final question, what is the rough estimate to have the frame repaired? Is it worth it?

Chris

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, having the tank cover lean backwards doesn't mean that the frame is bent. Mine was like that before I made some adjustments so the tank cover sits on the frame. On mine, the front was sitting on the tongue jack flange. I now push the front of my tank cover back so it drops to the frame just behind the tongue jack. It now sits level with the rest of my trailer.

[Inland RV Center, In]

The A-frame is a separate section of the frame, and is welded to the frame, within the underbelly.

For many years, the A-frame is made with tube steel, which is straight.

The A-frame can be bent upwards, when excessive rated hitch bars are used, or using bars that have very little flexing ability.

All that needs to happen is to pull into a gas station a few times, where the entrance is elevated.

The bending of the A-frame will more than likely happen when using Equalizer hitch bars, with an excessive rating.

Andy

[tyggeln]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

The A-frame is a separate section of the frame, and is welded to the frame, within the underbelly.

For many years, the A-frame is made with tube steel, which is straight.

The A-frame can be bent upwards, when excessive rated hitch bars are used, or using bars that have very little flexing ability.

All that needs to happen is to pull into a gas station a few times, where the entrance is elevated.

The bending of the A-frame will more than likely happen when using Equalizer hitch bars, with an excessive rating.

Andy

Andy - am I missing something because today after replacing my batteries and leveling the trailer to investigate what seems to be rear end sag, I inspected the place where the A-frame was apparently attached to the frame. I don't see a weld but the frame seems bolted into place; I agree it makes more sense for it to be welded. The attached photo is from right under the a-frame. I was able to place my finger into the gap. Doesn't seem as robust as a weld.

I was looking at old pictures from the day I took delivery in Oct 2005 (hitched to a woefully inadequate Jeep Grand Cherokee) and sure enough I can't seem to pick up the degree of bend that is there now. I later towed with a nearly adequate Dodge Durango, still softly sprung until late 2007. Used equalizer with 1000 pound bars, my tongue weight verified today with a Sherline scale was 1050 with empty propane tanks. I'm sure from time to time there was even more weight on the tongue. How much weight do you have to have on the tongue before the A-frame deforms?

Anyway- what is to be done? What involved in repair, and what can I do to mitigate the front end damage effects you have talked about (drive 55, avoid road dips, be aware of curbs, driveways and speed etc). Not sure ditching the equalizer or Yukon 3/4 ton SUV is an option though.

Is there a detriment to having bent A-frame? Like poor WD performance? Should I get this fixed? My trailer now has other issues with apparent rear sag that I'll talk about on a different thread? Anyway, time for bed to consider my rear end sag post...thanks for your insights.

Chris

[TomW]

Originally Posted by tyggeln

... Used equalizer with 1000 pound bars...

Is there a detriment to having bent A-frame? ...

Chris

Chris,

I think Andy's shop really needs to see the bent A-frame to advise if a problem exists.

That being said, my Overlander's A-frame is bent, and I believe the bend is a consequence of using 1000-pound Reese bars with a 3/4-ton Suburban.

After careful examination of everything & finding no cracks, I did nothing other than making sure the Airstream rode level going down the road with 500-lb bars. That was many years/miles ago, and I still feel no need to unbend and/or weld stiffeners around the A-frame.

FWIW, I did not understand what I was looking at in your picture.

Tom

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by tyggeln

Andy - am I missing something because today after replacing my batteries and leveling the trailer to investigate what seems to be rear end sag, I inspected the place where the A-frame was apparently attached to the frame. I don't see a weld but the frame seems bolted into place; I agree it makes more sense for it to be welded. The attached photo is from right under the a-frame. I was able to place my finger into the gap. Doesn't seem as robust as a weld.

I was looking at old pictures from the day I took delivery in Oct 2005 (hitched to a woefully inadequate Jeep Grand Cherokee) and sure enough I can't seem to pick up the degree of bend that is there now. I later towed with a nearly adequate Dodge Durango, still softly sprung until late 2007. Used equalizer with 1000 pound bars, my tongue weight verified today with a Sherline scale was 1050 with empty propane tanks. I'm sure from time to time there was even more weight on the tongue. How much weight do you have to have on the tongue before the A-frame deforms?

Anyway- what is to be done? What involved in repair, and what can I do to mitigate the front end damage effects you have talked about (drive 55, avoid road dips, be aware of curbs, driveways and speed etc). Not sure ditching the equalizer or Yukon 3/4 ton SUV is an option though.

Is there a detriment to having bent A-frame? Like poor WD performance? Should I get this fixed? My trailer now has other issues with apparent rear sag that I'll talk about on a different thread? Anyway, time for bed to consider my rear end sag post...thanks for your insights.

Chris

A bent A-frame should be thoroughly checked out, one, to find the cause and (2) to make sure there are no cracks.

Next would be to determine what caused the bending, and then correct that problem.

Typically, excessive rated torsion bars cause the problem.

Make sure whoever you have to check the A-frame out, is very familiar with Airstreams method of construction.

Andy

[tyggeln]

Originally Posted by TomW

Chris,

I think Andy's shop really needs to see the bent A-frame to advise if a problem exists.

That being said, my Overlander's A-frame is bent, and I believe the bend is a consequence of using 1000-pound Reese bars with a 3/4-ton Suburban.

After careful examination of everything & finding no cracks, I did nothing other than making sure the Airstream rode level going down the road with 500-lb bars. That was many years/miles ago, and I still feel no need to unbend and/or weld stiffeners around the A-frame.

FWIW, I did not understand what I was looking at in your picture.

Tom

Tom - that views from underneath the trailer tongue, where the A-frame seems to end, and almost butts up against the foremost trailer cross member. After doing more thread searching instead of working building satellites I figured that there must be an outboard plate not visible that is welded to both a-frame and main frame.

After reading a particularly raucous thread "Is My Tongue Bent", one assertion is that trailers of my length, weight and birthdate always have a bent tongue due to loading. Presuming this to be the case, the deflection would be elastic so I propose the following test:

0) Unhitch and level the trailer, more or less.

1) Place sturdy wood blocks underneath just aft of the a-frame (both sides). Lower the tongue jack until the frame just contacts the blocks. The blocks should support the frame at the same height on both sides of the trailer. Measure the height of the frame on both sides and then the coupler for reference.

2) Lower the tongue jack until the weight is assumed by the blocks. Record the height of the frame at the blocks and the coupler again.

3) Subtract the frame height from the coupler height each found in steps (1) and (2).

4) The difference from step (1) represents the amount of A-frame flex due to gravity + A-frame bend/damage. It will likely be non-zero, especially if the amount of flex is visible.

5) The difference found in step (2) represents the unloaded position of the frame (including flexure from self weight) and indicates the amount of "bent tongue". If it is near zero or less then the A-frame is NOT bent (or cracked).

(6) Take the difference between steps (4) and (5). This represents the amount of flex due to tongue weight alone. Presumably if this flexure is measurable, then once calibrated it provides an alternate method of measuring tongue weight without going to the scales.

I invite members to review my logic, and perhaps perform the test for themselves and report back results. I should have results this weekend.

Chris