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Old 08-29-2005, 01:58 AM   #29
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This thread has some overlaps with one with 61 posts about 14 months ago at
http://www.airforums.com/forum...zed+frame+nick

My main thoughts remain as:
1. Corrosion resistant frame. How about a galvanized frame as an extra cost option?

2. Rot-resistant floor. How about dipping the plywood or OSB in one of the new, safer, chemicals? (i.e not CCA)

3. Stainless steel fastenings on exterior fittings like light covers and antennae? The zinc electro-plated steel screws corrode within a few years. Stainless fastenings are very little more expensive when purchased in bulk, and there are very few of them.

4. The fresh water tank filler to be on the other side of the trailer, where the water supply will be.

5. Ducted wiring runs, accessible for maintenance and upgrades.

6. Plumbing pipes to be accessible for maintenance and replacement.

7. Access plate to maintain dump valves. I could hardly believe the instructions in the manual.... "first take your aircraft style snips and cut a large hole in the bottom of the trailer...."

8. Reliable level gauges for the tanks

9. Shock absorbers that can be removed without removing axles or bending brackets.

10. Entrance door hinges that can be removed and maintained without cutting holes in the inner skin. Captive nuts would deal with that.

11. An intelligent 4 stage battery charger and converter as a factory option. (This may be already an option, I don't know)

12. Windows bolted in with stainless nuts and bolts. The existing plated self-tappers make it very difficult to clean the outside of the window frames without injury to one's hands, or tearing a cloth etc. They also look horrible.

13. Overall, a recognition that any part may need to be replaced or maintained, and that the engineering should reflect that reality.
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:25 AM   #30
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Mechanical access

Quote:
Overall, a recognition that any part may need to be replaced or maintained, and that the engineering should reflect that reality.
Just ran into that yesterday. I was adding a 12v outlet below the wardrobe for plugging in my Constant Breeze fan. Reaching in through the removed drawer opening to attach the wires is pretty tight, so I started to remove the floor of the wardrobe. Surprize, it doesn't remove! The water pump and a lot of plumbing is under there and I wonder how one would ever replace the pump or fix a leak, let alone simply remove the water pump filter to clean it out or for winterizing.

I'm thinking about installing a marine deck plate directly above the water pump for access.
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:30 AM   #31
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12v outlets

An external 12v outlet for plugging in a 12v compressor would be a welcome addition. One on each side near the tires would be perfect.

I have installed a 12v outlet in the refrigerator compartment, which solves the problem on the road side. The curb side is a bit more problimatical, but a second outlet just inside the door would allow one to easily reach the tires on all trailers except, perhaps, the rear tires on a 34'.
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:31 AM   #32
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Add a two way valve by the water pump to allow pumping of RV antifreeze. Problem for me at this point is to add the valve, I need to relocate the pump due to the wheel well being so close to the pump.

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Old 08-29-2005, 08:48 AM   #33
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how about an onboard air compressor that could air tires, supply an air ride suspention and be plumbed to instantly winterize the trailer!

i agree with nick about the hardware issues, and almost have every screw on the trailer changed to stainless.

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Old 08-29-2005, 09:28 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
Dump the cheap windows on the Safari line.



that, would probably mean a second loan......so what do you want egg in your beer?
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Old 08-29-2005, 09:30 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd
how about ..... plumbed to instantly winterize the trailer!


ill drink to that!
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Old 08-29-2005, 09:35 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska
An external 12v outlet for plugging in a 12v compressor would be a welcome addition. One on each side near the tires would be perfect.

I have installed a 12v outlet in the refrigerator compartment, which solves the problem on the road side. The curb side is a bit more problimatical, but a second outlet just inside the door would allow one to easily reach the tires on all trailers except, perhaps, the rear tires on a 34'.
get one of those toy dart guns, then you can shoot the cord over to your outlet....
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Old 08-29-2005, 10:38 AM   #37
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Good thread. Some of the improvements on my wish list, docking light, 12v outlets on both sides of trailer, more light on the jack area, power mgt center, etc were done last month. See thread http://www.airforums.com/forum...hlight=tin+hut


I would like a better turn key winterizing system as well.
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Old 08-29-2005, 11:16 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Pahaska
I was adding a 12v outlet so started to remove the floor of the wardrobe. Surprize, it doesn't remove! The water pump and a lot of plumbing is under there and I wonder how one would ever replace the pump or fix a leak, let alone simply remove the water pump filter to clean it out or for winterizing.
I find it quite astonishing that the water pump is inaccessible. One would expect to clean the filter once a year, at least. On my 1988 Excella there is a removeable floor in the wardrobe for pump access, and there is a kerbside 120 volt double receptacle. In this thread we are listing possible improvements, but in these two examples the model has deteriorated over the past 18 years. I presume the company is responding to their percieved priorities of purchasers of new trailers. If such purchasers put TVs, fabrics and faucets as higher priorities than longevity and ease of maintenance, any company will reflect those priorities to maximize sales and profits in the interests of its shareholders. Still, the company could perhaps save by NOT fastening down the wardrobe floor!
Nick.
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Old 08-29-2005, 11:24 AM   #39
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I'm totally with Jack on the winterizing valve:

"A pre-installed Camco (or something like it) winterizing kit on every unit that leaves the factory.

To install this valve after the fact involves moving the pump toward the front of the coach, as well as re-working a little bit of plumbing.

The kit is under $20.00, and to install it at the time of assembly would require minimal additional time.

I know when I bring my CCD in to Jackson Center next spring for warrenty service I am going to have the service dept. install the one I bought. My guess is that I will have to pay for this."
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Old 08-29-2005, 11:33 AM   #40
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Great Ideas, but---

Lots of good ideas but I'd like to add-- for short people like the wife or kids??-- a wall switch for the over head lights--how about replacing the step light with a motion sensor light or at least replace the existing light with one that has some light. Seems we always leave when it's daylight & return when it's dark. Also it would be good for warnings when uninvited guests are out & about. A built in quality water filter, along with a quiet pump. Did someone mention an external WiFi antenna??? A built in front level. There's more Stay tuned.
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Old 08-29-2005, 11:47 AM   #41
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Satellite radio antenna

How about a factory-installed XM or Sirius satellite radio system? I have heard it may be going to be done, that was a while back, and I have heard no more about it. It could be an option when ordering the premium sound system, with all those speakers and DVD/CD players, etc. Something else, while I am thinking about it. After what happened to RichardT the other day, maybe offering OnStar would be a great idea. Just push a button, and someone knows where you are , and can talk you through a problem, or call police, fire, or ambulance, and give them directions to your location. Yes, many GM vehicles have this, but not everyone tows with a Suburban, or has a GM OnStar-equipped Toad.
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Old 08-29-2005, 01:47 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickcrowhurst
I find it quite astonishing that the water pump is inaccessible. One would expect to clean the filter once a year, at least.
Nick.
I pulled the visible screws, but the wardrobe floor goes under the wall on the shower side and would not easily budge. When I get more time (trip is pending), I will pull the screws again and see whether I can bump the floor up from below by removing the drawer. If I can, I will put on a piano hinge to make access better. My 25' had a piano-hinged wardrobe floor; I don't know why the 28' doesn't.
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