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Old 01-30-2016, 11:41 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Stanley29 View Post
Not sure if Im going to go with a torsion control axle or not. I got a quote from Colin Hyde for a torsion axle but after speaking with a few other guys Im thinking maybe I will stick with the old drop style with the leaf springs. Hell it was good enough for Wally and he went around the world on dirty roads. Might be easier just clean up the old springs and strap the new axle on. I think my trailer has 10 springs
Stanley

I went with a straight Dexter axle with the old springs and very happy that I did.
It raised the trailer about 4" and allowed me to go with deeper tanks. See my post 170 for cost, http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...-38289-13.html. Would also recommend dropping the old axle and taking it to a local rv dealer for exact measurements, make sure that you go with the right bushings.

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Old 01-30-2016, 12:25 PM   #44
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I have done the same as Toastie....on five different Vintage. I like it ...price, looks, labor and finished ride.
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Old 01-30-2016, 12:42 PM   #45
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Nice old trailer. Glad to see you taking good care of it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stanley29 View Post
Not sure if Im going to go with a torsion control axle or not. I got a quote from Colin Hyde for a torsion axle but after speaking with a few other guys Im thinking maybe I will stick with the old drop style with the leaf springs. Hell it was good enough for Wally and he went around the world on dirty roads. Might be easier just clean up the old springs and strap the new axle on. I think my trailer has 10 springs

Yeah, it was good enough for Wally until he found a better axle/suspension. I converted a 56 Overlander from springs to a new torsion axle. It is not a hard thing to do. The ride is much better with a torsion axle.
The price you list of $800 for one torsion axle is pretty steep. I'm sure you could get a better price from Redneck Trailer Supply for a Dexter axle.
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Old 01-30-2016, 12:56 PM   #46
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Sub-floor choice- I would use 3/4" Joubert MGP
http://www.joubert-group.com/gamme_produit.php?id=83
The beauty in MGP is that is has no voids. Voids accelerate rot.

I buy tanks from Pelland Enterprises. They have just about every tank there is in their catalog.
http://www.pellandent.com/RV_Product...CategoryID=156

I good solution for a black tank is an above the floor design. There are many ways to store poop. Nearly every way has been shown or talked about here on the forum.

I would also use the old frame as a template to build an entirely new frame as HiHo has described.
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Old 01-30-2016, 05:00 PM   #47
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Good info thanks
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:50 AM   #48
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frame cross members

I believe Hiho just replaced two cross members on his frame. Mainly to support his tanks. He said he used 2x4 x.125 steel tube. Ive looked at that. Might be a tad heavy since I have to replace damn near all of them. Im looking at a lighter gage. Still heavier then the original. Problem I see is attaching the nuts on the other side of the floor bolts with square tubing. I could have the piece formed but that quote I got was around $500 or so. Any suggestions? Mike
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:55 AM   #49
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frame

frame
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Old 02-02-2016, 11:15 AM   #50
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I think HiHo gave a description of how he would build a frame from scratch somewhere here on the forums. I think he could give you some insight as to his thinking on the frame.
Hew is a link to a Paul Mayeux's Cruiser on Picasa. He had a new frame built. Good pictures to look at for anyone rebuilding a 50s Airstream.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1063316...?noredirect=1#
Paul is the owner of A&P Vintage Trailer.

You don't have to use elevator bolts to attach the floor to the rectangular tubing. You can use self tapping floor screws as is currently the practice of Airstream.
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Old 02-02-2016, 03:01 PM   #51
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Thanks Lance, yes self tapping screws. good idea. Ive spoken with Paul before. He seems like a busy guy and I hate to bother him since he builds these for a living. He told me he had a guy fab a frame for him for around $3800 or so. I would do that if the main rails weren't in good shape. I think Ill try to salvage what I have and save the money. Mike
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:49 PM   #52
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Paul is a very busy guy for sure.

I understand your thinking on the frame. The rectangular steel is pretty inexpensive and very strong for outriggers and cross members. You can also cut access holes for fasteners.
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:27 PM   #53
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In the next few months I'm starting a scratch built frame and will use the rectangular tube thruout. Although I'm not a fan of self tapping screws, these have worked super for me. Click image for larger version

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I space then a little closer than stock and really like them. Predrill with a #8 drill bit.

I'm planning on 4" tall outriggers from the tube and leaning toward 6" tall main rails and cross members. The sides of the belly pan will only be 4" deep so the banana wraps will still work. They sides will attach to some angle welded down the length of the main rails at the 4" dimension. I will have 6" deep tanks in the center of the frame.
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Old 02-05-2016, 12:46 AM   #54
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frame

Replaced almost every cross member. I used 2x4x.083 square tubing. Pretty stout stuff. Not sure how to tackle the 12 outriggers that I need to replace. The curved cut and the fact that the tube I bought is 4" instead of 3". Anybody have any ideas?
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Old 02-05-2016, 12:49 AM   #55
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frame

new cross members welded in place
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Old 02-05-2016, 09:09 AM   #56
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I believe it was Truckasarus that cut outriggers using a plasma cutter and a wooden jig. The tube slid into the box like jig and the end had a profile that the plasma cutter traced to cut the curve. That's how I plan on doing mine.
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A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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