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04-20-2017, 12:34 AM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
Nikiski
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 59
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Shell off restoration 1954 26' Cruiser! Let the Renovation fun begin!!
Ok so while I waited a couple of months for the snow to melt enough for me to grab the trailer, I decided to spend some time going through the forum and reading up on many of the other restorations.
Well now the trailer is home and I've started, the demolition of the inside and getting things ready to remove the shell. It's clear I have a few more things I need to do than I had originally thought, but I knew that's how these things go.
I put in a few hours of work so far and here's what I've done so far... and some pictures, cause I know how everyone loves pictures [emoji12]
I removed all the trailer lights all around, removed the lower interior panels, the old wiring, the insulation, and some of the flooring that was actually cover older flooring.
Looks like I will need to redo all the C-channel along the bottom, and come up with a way to create the new sub floor without any existing subfloor as a pattern, but I'm sure I'll manage.
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04-20-2017, 06:07 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,931
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Looks like a fun project and a great canvas to work with. Our 55 had the same issue with the C-channel and deteriorated subfloor. Before we removed the shell, we measured and determined our radius corners were 22.5". Since we added gray water tanks within the frame, we had the opportunity to adjust the chassis cross members to, not only accommodate the tanks, but to have the edges of the new plywood sheets land on cross members. Our original C-channel was in bad shape. We bought some 1 1/2" -16ga square aluminum tubing and split it for the C-channel. Last week we temporarily installed the subfloor and dropped the shell on to check the radius corners and 90" outside width. All fit well. Today will be removing the plywood to seal it. You're correct in searching the forums for information. Nothing but fun. Good luck.
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04-20-2017, 10:40 AM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
Nikiski
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba L
Looks like a fun project and a great canvas to work with. Our 55 had the same issue with the C-channel and deteriorated subfloor. Before we removed the shell, we measured and determined our radius corners were 22.5". Since we added gray water tanks within the frame, we had the opportunity to adjust the chassis cross members to, not only accommodate the tanks, but to have the edges of the new plywood sheets land on cross members. Our original C-channel was in bad shape. We bought some 1 1/2" -16ga square aluminum tubing and split it for the C-channel. Last week we temporarily installed the subfloor and dropped the shell on to check the radius corners and 90" outside width. All fit well. Today will be removing the plywood to seal it. You're correct in searching the forums for information. Nothing but fun. Good luck.
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Thanks Bubba! I'm actually pretty fortunate, I actually have some C-channel left over from one of my jobs... what I was going to do about the inside radius is take some cardboard or heavy construction rosin paper and make and make myself a template, I'll measure back from each wheel well and mark a parallel point so I can have one edge straight and the other with the two radius corners.
Where do you have pictures of your project?
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04-20-2017, 11:24 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,931
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That'll work with cardboard template. We logged a lot of measurements across the floor at the inside walls before lifting the shell since I wasn't sure how much the shell would distort due to flexion. There are a lot of different methods people have successfully used on a full monty. Whatever works best for you. You can see what we've done by going to 'Tale of a '55 FC Whale Reno'. Today we'll pull the chassis out from under the shell and seal the subfloor. Then, permanently install the floor, insulate, belly pan, C-channel and drop the shell. Good luck and reconstruct in your mind well ahead of where you are now so you don't miss anything. That's not to say I haven't already missed something. Hope this helps.
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04-23-2017, 12:37 AM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
Nikiski
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 59
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Got some more time in on the airstream, this is what I've been able to do.
Removed more of the interior panels, the lockers, and cut away the elevator bolts, removed the shell, the flooring, the belly pan, got it all cleaned up and am now getting the frame and break system ready for the the new flooring. I'll have to replace a significant amount metal and I'll removing & replacing one piece at a time once I have this in the air so I can make sure everything stays straight.
I'll be putting down 3/4" MDO plywood as the new flooring and getting new C-channel, the existing one was completely unusable.
Questions,
What kind of C-channel do I need? And what have you all done to improve the connection or the plywood installation? Especially around the curved sections where it seems like the plywood is just floating in the air.
Attachment 1
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04-23-2017, 06:09 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,931
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You're making great progress. I used 14 ga tubing for all the outriggers aft of the axle with cutouts for the elevator bolt wrench. We did add a 2x2 angle diagonally at the rear to accommodate the weight of the toilet. There are some who use self tapping screws in the field along the cross members with elevator bolts through the c-channel at all the outriggers. Since I have purlins as cross members, I will go back with elevator bolts throughout. Good luck.
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04-23-2017, 06:41 PM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
Nikiski
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba L
You're making great progress. I used 14 ga tubing for all the outriggers aft of the axle with cutouts for the elevator bolt wrench. We did add a 2x2 angle diagonally at the rear to accommodate the weight of the toilet. There are some who use self tapping screws in the field along the cross members with elevator bolts through the c-channel at all the outriggers. Since I have purlins as cross members, I will go back with elevator bolts throughout. Good luck.
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Thanks for the insight Bubba, I'll be getting some metal this week
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04-23-2017, 06:46 PM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
Nikiski
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 59
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Ready for the new setup to arrive, getting metal this week and the parts needed to clean up the axle setup.
Will have this ready to drop the shell on hopefully for next weekend, also need to find a new step, let me know if you all have any ideas
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04-25-2017, 11:01 AM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
2012 28' Flying Cloud
Waukesha
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 150
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Wow! What a great project. I'll be following with a lot of interest.
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04-25-2017, 11:29 PM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
Nikiski
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckZ
Wow! What a great project. I'll be following with a lot of interest.
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Thanks ChuckZ!! I'll be sure to keep adding pictures so it stays interesting [emoji12]
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04-30-2017, 11:22 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
Nikiski
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 59
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05-01-2017, 07:13 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,931
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Jakattack you're making great headway. At this rate you'll be pulling it down the road in no time. All looks textbook. Keep up the momentum and good luck.
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05-02-2017, 12:22 PM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member
1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
Nikiski
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba L
Jakattack you're making great headway. At this rate you'll be pulling it down the road in no time. All looks textbook. Keep up the momentum and good luck.
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Thanks Bubba! My goal is to get it road and travel worthy before the end of the month so I can take it down to California when we move. I'll finish it up when I'm down there cause up here in Alaska it sure is hard to get ahold of parts and materials or expensive to ship to [emoji51]
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05-03-2017, 05:37 PM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
Nikiski
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 59
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Anyone have a good recommendation for a thread that does a good job on rehabbing the windows and all that's involved with that? I can't seem to find anything with much detail, I know it's probably simple but I feel like that would be something someone would have covered pretty well in here already
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05-03-2017, 10:18 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1963 22' Safari
2020 27' Globetrotter
State of
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakattack
Another weekend and more fun on the airstream! I got new break system setup, with new backing plates, then replaced the bearings and races, cleaned up the old drums and got it all installed.
Picked up some metal for the frame and have been working on getting it all prepared for welding in place tomorrow and Tuesday, floor will go on after that then the shell will be back on next weekend!
Pretty excited to be working on putting things together instead of tearing them apart!
Also got some goodies from Vintage Trailer Supply!!
Attachment 284480Attachment 284481Attachment 284482Attachment 284483Attachment 284484Attachment 284485Attachment 284486
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Cool, so you were able to retrofit new loaded backing plates on the original axles? Love to hear what you ordered!
__________________
Scott & Megan
VAC LIBRARIAN WBCCI 8671
1963 Safari from the 1963-64 Around the World Caravan
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05-05-2017, 12:39 PM
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#16
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2 Rivet Member
1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
Nikiski
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goransons
Cool, so you were able to retrofit new loaded backing plates on the original axles? Love to hear what you ordered!
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Thanks Goransons, yeah! I used the 12"x2" loaded plates from dexter, you should be able to see the part number in the pictures, the only minor tweak I had to make was when reinstalling the drums... the edge of the new plates rub on the drums so I had beveled the edge of the drums slightly to keep them from rubbing, not a big deal at all!
I'm not sure if you have the same axle as me, mine was a Hadco and it had the square shaft. I'd be more than happy to share the part numbers for what I used on everything, I'll do that once I go pull the receipt
Hope that helps! [emoji1363]
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05-07-2017, 11:46 PM
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#17
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2 Rivet Member
1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
Nikiski
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 59
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05-08-2017, 05:00 AM
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#18
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3 Rivet Member
1973 Argosy 22
Carleton
, Michigan
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 123
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Amazing progress in such a short amount of time! You are a man of great skills
Really enjoying the posts- thanks!
Shawn
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05-08-2017, 05:42 AM
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#19
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3 Rivet Member
1957 22' Caravanner
1965 26' Overlander
appleton
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 137
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Incredible work so far. Keep the info coming. I will be following along. The new step looks nice. Did you get it from VTS? I need one but havent pulled the trigger until I was more certain on what to get. What you have looks like a good solution.
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05-09-2017, 12:18 AM
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#20
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2 Rivet Member
1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
Nikiski
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argosy man
Amazing progress in such a short amount of time! You are a man of great skills
Really enjoying the posts- thanks!
Shawn
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Thanks Shawn, I appreciate the kind words! It's all about planning and execution!
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