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03-12-2011, 08:24 PM
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#181
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2 Rivet Member
1954 25' Cruiser
Marshfield
, Massachusetts
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 45
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Hi Doug,
I'll be starting my Crusier in June..full rehab. I like your thread, great guide. Also like the new wheels...I need to do the same. Post lots of pics!! Thanks.
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03-12-2011, 08:35 PM
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#182
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
OO
, OO
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 174
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Doug
Our Cruiser have very sloping outer walls in the rear. In the upper part of the built-in wardrobes beside the bed is almost no more depth.
Werner
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03-13-2011, 12:40 AM
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#183
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Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Currently Looking...
Cruisin
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NTRPRZ
Hi Doug,
I'll be starting my Crusier in June..full rehab. I like your thread, great guide. Also like the new wheels...I need to do the same. Post lots of pics!! Thanks.
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Hi Don,
It looks like you have a very nice trailer to start out with! The interior seams to be in very good condition. Good luck and I will look forward to your project.
Doug
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03-13-2011, 04:20 PM
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#184
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used to have rivets
1953 25' Cruiser
1967 24' Tradewind
Sacramento
, California
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 35
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Hi Doug, I wrote last October that I was going to get back to my '53. Well, that didn't happen, but maybe now. I never saw an answere to your question whether the front and back curves were the same. You were missing the back, I am missing the front. What was the answere? Thanks.
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03-13-2011, 05:00 PM
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#185
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Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Currently Looking...
Cruisin
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooMuchTin
Hi Doug, I wrote last October that I was going to get back to my '53. Well, that didn't happen, but maybe now. I never saw an answere to your question whether the front and back curves were the same. You were missing the back, I am missing the front. What was the answere? Thanks.
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TwoMuchTin, I had nothing left in the back to go by and just enough in the front to make a cardboard template which I used to re-cut the front and left the back hang out. Then I put the shell on and traced the back for a good fit in the back. In your case make a pattern of the back? I think they are real close to the same.
Hope this helps
Doug
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03-13-2011, 07:42 PM
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#186
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Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Currently Looking...
Cruisin
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 683
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Storage hatch doors
Went into work today and bent up all the storage hatch doors. Earlier I had located aluminum piano hinge at Fastenal and suit case latches. Just have to rivet things in place now. Hope to install on the Cruiser tomorrow.
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03-14-2011, 07:41 PM
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#187
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Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Currently Looking...
Cruisin
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 683
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Doors installed
Installed the storage compartment doors today.
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03-14-2011, 08:43 PM
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#188
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Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
Port Hadlock
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 864
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Those look really good, Doug! Sure is nice storage to have.
cheers,
steve
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03-19-2011, 12:08 PM
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#189
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2 Rivet Member
1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
Parowan
, Utah
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman54
Installed the storage compartment doors today.
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Hey Doug, these look great. The 50's models are short on small outer storage compartments and this is a good solution. When I get to this point with mine, I’m going to copy your example. Thanks for sharing.
Spike
__________________
On the Road, Somewhere in North America.
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03-19-2011, 07:35 PM
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#190
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Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Currently Looking...
Cruisin
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 683
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Thanks Steve and Spike, it will be nice to have, they were pretty tedious to make though.
I got a good day in today, started by sealing all of the window frames inside then got a good start on all of the 12 volt wiring.
Found out that I need to rewire or replace the four side marker lights. When I went to wire them the wire just crumbled in my hands. Will have to see if I can find new sockets for them.
Hoping to get most of the wiring done tomorrow.
Doug
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03-20-2011, 04:18 AM
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#191
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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Doug, why are there those lines in the hatch? Is this some kind of very heavy gauge aluminum that needs a brake to bend? I am always curious and wanting to learn "How it's Made". I have remade a few of these doors for early 60's trailers and I use .040 2042 T6 when I do them. I have found that a 6" diameter then a 4" PVC pipe makes a good form to get the curve. If first you fold over the hinge and latch sides the thing tends to want to stay curved. These belly pan hatches are very cleaver and useful. Originally they housed the electric cord. I put one in the belly of a 1961 Tradewind just to hide the valves that drop down through the floor. You will need to be careful about the weight you put in there though. I do not think the belly can take too much in that horizontal position.
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03-20-2011, 07:00 AM
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#192
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Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Currently Looking...
Cruisin
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
Doug, why are there those lines in the hatch? Is this some kind of very heavy gauge aluminum that needs a brake to bend? I am always curious and wanting to learn "How it's Made". I have remade a few of these doors for early 60's trailers and I use .040 2042 T6 when I do them. I have found that a 6" diameter then a 4" PVC pipe makes a good form to get the curve. If first you fold over the hinge and latch sides the thing tends to want to stay curved. These belly pan hatches are very cleaver and useful. Originally they housed the electric cord. I put one in the belly of a 1961 Tradewind just to hide the valves that drop down through the floor. You will need to be careful about the weight you put in there though. I do not think the belly can take too much in that horizontal position.
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Good morning frank,
The aluminum I had was to stiff to roll by hand for the bigger pieces of the belly pan, so I did use a brake for those and continued that with the hatches. it does polish up nice with the sides and really doesn't show. The aluminum was a.032. The plan is to put the electric and water in a couple and misc. outside stuff in the rest(rope, tent stakes, marshmallow sticks, maybe a special drink mix). I like the idea of putting the drain valves in there I had not thought of that.
Doug
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03-20-2011, 10:48 AM
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#193
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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it really looks good Doug. enjoying reading your blog for sure...
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03-20-2011, 07:21 PM
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#194
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Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Currently Looking...
Cruisin
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 683
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Wiring
Thanks Frank, It has been fun getting back into our project! We are hoping to get her on the road this summer to celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary, a silver trailer for a silver anniversary . I started making use of the storage hatches today. I installed the city water inlet in one, the main power cord in another and 110volt outlets in two others.
I also installed 95% of the wiring for the trailer running lights, 18-110volt outlets and all of the 12volt wiring for the lighting.
Our SOB that we are using now has 4 outlets and none of them are in a good spot. For what the new campers cost you would think they would be designed better.
I wish I had a couple more days off, It is hard concentrating at work when I have all this fun waiting at home!
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03-20-2011, 07:48 PM
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#195
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Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
Port Hadlock
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 864
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Darn, Doug, that is so tempting. Sure like the city water fill there.
-steve
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03-21-2011, 05:05 AM
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#196
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Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Currently Looking...
Cruisin
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbearsailor
Darn, Doug, that is so tempting. Sure like the city water fill there.
-steve
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My thought was to get a quick coupler for the water then it should be pretty simple to hook-up at the campground. I also want to find some soft rubber to make a seal with and cut a hole in the hatch doors so they can be closed after hook-up.
Doug
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03-21-2011, 05:09 AM
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#197
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Rivet Master
2006 22' International CCD
1957 26' Overlander
Plymouth
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 554
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I like where your water hook up is Doug. There you go making me think some more.
Tim got home this weekend, asked about our visits. Would you be interested in having visitors for a couple of hours maybe next weekend?
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03-21-2011, 09:22 AM
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#198
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Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Currently Looking...
Cruisin
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradS
I like where your water hook up is Doug. There you go making me think some more.
Tim got home this weekend, asked about our visits. Would you be interested in having visitors for a couple of hours maybe next weekend?
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Sounds great! Always good to bounce a few more ideas around.
Sunday afternoon might work the best.
Doug
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03-21-2011, 03:12 PM
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#199
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Rivet Master
2006 22' International CCD
1957 26' Overlander
Plymouth
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 554
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Sunday would work best for me as well. Ill chat with Tim and get back to you
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03-21-2011, 09:34 PM
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#200
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used to have rivets
1953 25' Cruiser
1967 24' Tradewind
Sacramento
, California
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 35
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I am sure any day your great work will get me motivated.
Did you consider putting the hinges up and the latches down? What are the drawbackd of that? The latch is pratical, lockable, and readly available, but did you see any others that would work?
I too really like the water supply/hose storage, and the quick couplier will be great.
Bruce
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