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Old 10-04-2008, 08:10 AM   #43
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Frame improvements

Thanks Barry,
I do want to improve the axle,a big item for me is the clearance,I've had issues with that before and I hate that sound of dragging metal on concrete when pulling into a gas station.As for cost it's probably pretty minor to replace axle now compared to an emergency situation on the road.The original trailer weighed about 3200lbs so I've read so I thought I should have an axle rating of 4500lbs,Does this right?

As for the spare tire I had thought of the back bumper or under the rear bed with access from the rear hatch,I had not considered the front tongue,I kind of like that idea,right behind the gas tanks.

The battery I thought would go under the front bench along with the original aluminum water tank.Would this be to much weight in the front?

I was thinking of adding a bike rack to the back by welding in a receiver type hitch through the bumper and into the frame underneath.

Dad turned 80 a few weeks ago and he grew up in the north woods of Wisconsin and has only heard and read a bought the internet and thinks the help and response to this forum is amazing.He really thought I was crazy I think when I started taking the trailer apart and then when I told him the shell had to come off,well now he knows I am.So I really have a lot of incentive to get it back together.

This actually doesn't seem to be going very fast here,there is thing called making a living that really gets in the way all I want to do is work on the stream.

This is a similar floor plan to what I'm thinking http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...5&d=1218590068

Thanks Doug
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Old 10-04-2008, 11:24 AM   #44
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Doug,

Yeah, trying to do that level of effort and still maintain a family life, keep a revenue stream, and find time to eat and sleep is a major challenge. I was fortunate that mine did not need to come off the frame and I have a large enough shop that I could do the repairs during the winter months (read that rainy season here). Going out any time of the day or night, regardless of the weather, to a warm and well lit workshop was a big help.

Regarding the axle I can't tell you exactly what you need. Mine had just been replaced by a shop prior to my acquiring the trailer so I do not know what criteria they used. I do know that many folks here have done the math and will hopefully chime in.

My factory aluminum water tank was very small at six gallons. Hardly enough to use the toilet and wash up a few times. I installed a 33 gallon tank up front where it was originally installed, losing some cupboard space but no regrets.

The frame is not that strong so any time you are adding something that is going to hang off it be sure to beef up that area. Also understanding where best to place weight with the trailer being a single axle is critical to the towability. Too much weight behind the axle can be disasterous. Again many folks here have already done the math so leverage the knowledge they have gained.

I cheated with my spare and replaced the brake drums with ones that have the same bolt pattern as my TV. That way I only need to carry the one spare. I run the same size mags so not a problem there. When I do use the truck instead (very seldom) we throw the spare in the canopy.

If you are putting your battery inside you need to ensure it is vented properly. They do off-gas. You also want easy access to it.

It sounds like your dad is enjoying this whole process, while probably quietly wondering where the heck he went wrong raising you .

Take care,
Barry
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:34 PM   #45
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Does anyone know of a way to weld in a receiver type hitch into my back bumper for adding a bike rack without putting to much stress on the frame.I did a search on bike racks and I got that it was not recommended?
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Old 10-09-2008, 08:48 PM   #46
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Is there someplace We can find out some history of our 1954 26' cruiser serial #6484
WBCCI # 20731 ?
Thanks Doug and Jan
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Old 10-11-2008, 05:47 AM   #47
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contact streamer23 he knows all about all of the numbers.
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Old 10-11-2008, 09:22 AM   #48
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I also have read against adding that type of hitch on the rear.
It places too much stress on the rear frame. All I think of is the dreaded frame separation.

I know Andy R. of Inland RV would not recommend adding any bikes or other objects to the rear of an Airstream.

He is also a great source for parts and information.

Good luck on your restoration.
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Old 10-11-2008, 09:21 PM   #49
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Frame

Finished prepping/painting frame today ,rust treatment,primed,aluminum enamel paint.Started getting the new floor ready.Also started building railing for front porch of house that I should have done 10 years ago,better to late than never Jan and I had some good supervision today with dad over.About 60-70 hours invested so far.Its been a good productive day
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Old 10-12-2008, 08:12 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman54 View Post
Finished prepping/painting frame today ,rust treatment,primed,aluminum enamel paint.Started getting the new floor ready.Also started building railing for front porch of house that I should have done 10 years ago,better to late than never Jan and I had some good supervision today with dad over.About 60-70 hours invested so far.Its been a good productive day

This is a good time to replace axle, rubber bushings, bolts and shackles and shocks.
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Old 10-12-2008, 12:27 PM   #51
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Frame looks great!! I have a 63 TW dry wt. is 3300lb. I had Inland RV install a new axel and shocks a few months ago, they recomened a 5000lb axel. So far smooth stremin.
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Old 10-16-2008, 01:00 AM   #52
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axle

I think I found a local dealer today that I can bring my axle into and get my new dexter axle from,he quoted me $475 for a new axle,brakes,leafs,complete,that is the best price I have gotten so far.

I am not sure if I need the new leafs yet the old ones look good?Now I need to find tanks ,then I can concentrate on fitting the new floor and sealing that with a marine type varnish.

Also the old axle had shocks on it ,does anyone know if these are original or necessary?
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Old 11-01-2008, 09:50 PM   #53
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The floor is back

It was a great day here in Wisconsin and a good airstream day.As I mentioned earlier I have been taking apart an old music stage for the plywood for my new floor.I finally got enough time today to get the rest of the plywood I needed.I like finding and reusing old material when I can.I ended up being able to do the 24' floor in 5 pieces 4-10'x4' and 1-8'x4'.Sealed both sides and edges and screwed down for now.Ended the day with a bought a 1/2 hr of daylight left so we were able to slide the shell back on,I hope to fabricate the new U channel for walls tomorrow.
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Old 11-01-2008, 09:57 PM   #54
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I only had one conner left for a pattern,so I cut the front corners.I will cut the back after the shell is on.I didn't get a chance to do the axle and tanks so I will have to do them the hard way,from the bottom.Click image for larger version

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Old 11-02-2008, 01:05 AM   #55
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The floor plywood was always originally oriented from side to side on all Airstreams I have ever seen. You made the new floor orienting the peices front to back, which creates a large seam down the middle. I hope you plan to put a stip of plywood (same thickness as the floor, maybe 12" wide, 6" on each side of the seam) below this seam and screw (staggered) (and glue?) it to each half to restore strength as if is was a single piece of wood, side to side. If you don't do this it will put additional stress on the outriggers to hold up the shell when it is reinstalled.
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Old 11-02-2008, 05:18 AM   #56
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By orienting the plywood that way I think you have changed the monocoque design somewhat. The trailer is designed to twist a bit as it goes over uneven terrain. A sheet of plywood is more apt to flex with the length. I might be totally wrong on this, but running the sheets side to side works with the tendency to flex. It helps encourage it to twist side to side, therefore down the length of the trailer. The way you have it, it will want to twist front to back. I will be curious to see how running it this way works for you. Hey it is just wood and that stuff grows on trees.
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