Just got a '54 Cruiser- replacing floor

[tinman54]

Finished cleaning off the frame last night.The main frame rails look real good,2 or 3 cross members are a little rusty,I'll see after the wire brush if they will need to be replaced.The wheel wells are in good shape anyway and reusable.The U channel on the edges is in really bad shape and will have to be remade,there were no corners,just a bunch of little pieces,so I will have to rely on my pattern to shape the new floor.The axle looks like it is in pretty good shape but I thought I should replace it just because of its age and I like the idea of gaining a couple more inches clearance with a straight axle.Is it a problem or costly to find replacement wheels for the original wheels if I kept it?Getting closer to that turn around time when I can go the other direction and put her back together.Hoping to end up with one of those nice shiny cruiser's like the one's in the vintage airstream's archives.http://www.vintageairstream.com/arch...er1/index.html

[safari57]

Doug

Great progress to date. You work fast.

A couple of thoughts:

1. IMHO you would do well to swap out the axle. This is about the easiest time to do so with complete access. It amazes me that people will invest thousands of dollars and hours into a restoration and then risk it all by not swapping out 50+ year old axles and springs when they have the opportunity. I realize that it is a cost that many hope to avoid but there are few things worse than sitting on the side of the road with wheel bearing problems, or a broken spindle, and then finding yourself at the mercy of a shop you know little if anything about as they try to retrofit to your rig.
2. Where the heavy appliances are going to go it might make sense to add a bit more support to the frame. Also where you are going to put your water and waste tanks if they are going to be hung below the floor now would be the ideal time to strengthen the frame in those areas in addition to putting the hangers in place.
3. Getting your dad involved is a wonderful idea and I'm sure he is enjoying this. So many times we forget that just because an older parent/neighbor/friend may have a hearing or visual impairment doesn't mean that they can't help out in many ways, even if it is just sitting on the sidelines providing play by play coaching. I wish my dad was around to do this with me and you are lucky to still have yours with you.
4. Are you intending to carry the spare tire in the front or underneath. Also, where are you placing the battery(s)? If on the tongue you may want to strengthen that area or even add length and the brackets while you can weld without impacting the body. Same for bike rack out back in future. If this is a potential now is the time to add strength to that area and an appropriate mounting bracket as well. The original frames were not the strongest and I've read here many times that people have had frame issues by simply adding a bike rack and a couple of heavy bikes on the back and then bouncing down the highways and byways for a while.

Please keep the pictures and dialog coming. For those of us on the electronic sidelines it is very much appreciated.

Barry

[tinman54]

Thanks Barry,
I do want to improve the axle,a big item for me is the clearance,I've had issues with that before and I hate that sound of dragging metal on concrete when pulling into a gas station.As for cost it's probably pretty minor to replace axle now compared to an emergency situation on the road.The original trailer weighed about 3200lbs so I've read so I thought I should have an axle rating of 4500lbs,Does this right?

As for the spare tire I had thought of the back bumper or under the rear bed with access from the rear hatch,I had not considered the front tongue,I kind of like that idea,right behind the gas tanks.

The battery I thought would go under the front bench along with the original aluminum water tank.Would this be to much weight in the front?

I was thinking of adding a bike rack to the back by welding in a receiver type hitch through the bumper and into the frame underneath.

Dad turned 80 a few weeks ago and he grew up in the north woods of Wisconsin and has only heard and read a bought the internet and thinks the help and response to this forum is amazing.He really thought I was crazy I think when I started taking the trailer apart and then when I told him the shell had to come off,well now he knows I am.So I really have a lot of incentive to get it back together.

This actually doesn't seem to be going very fast here,there is thing called making a living that really gets in the way all I want to do is work on the stream.

This is a similar floor plan to what I'm thinking http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...5&d=1218590068

Thanks Doug

[safari57]

Doug,

Yeah, trying to do that level of effort and still maintain a family life, keep a revenue stream, and find time to eat and sleep is a major challenge. I was fortunate that mine did not need to come off the frame and I have a large enough shop that I could do the repairs during the winter months (read that rainy season here). Going out any time of the day or night, regardless of the weather, to a warm and well lit workshop was a big help.

Regarding the axle I can't tell you exactly what you need. Mine had just been replaced by a shop prior to my acquiring the trailer so I do not know what criteria they used. I do know that many folks here have done the math and will hopefully chime in.

My factory aluminum water tank was very small at six gallons. Hardly enough to use the toilet and wash up a few times. I installed a 33 gallon tank up front where it was originally installed, losing some cupboard space but no regrets.

The frame is not that strong so any time you are adding something that is going to hang off it be sure to beef up that area. Also understanding where best to place weight with the trailer being a single axle is critical to the towability. Too much weight behind the axle can be disasterous. Again many folks here have already done the math so leverage the knowledge they have gained.

I cheated with my spare and replaced the brake drums with ones that have the same bolt pattern as my TV. That way I only need to carry the one spare. I run the same size mags so not a problem there. When I do use the truck instead (very seldom) we throw the spare in the canopy.

If you are putting your battery inside you need to ensure it is vented properly. They do off-gas. You also want easy access to it.

It sounds like your dad is enjoying this whole process, while probably quietly wondering where the heck he went wrong raising you .

Take care,
Barry

[tinman54]

Does anyone know of a way to weld in a receiver type hitch into my back bumper for adding a bike rack without putting to much stress on the frame.I did a search on bike racks and I got that it was not recommended?

[tinman54]

Is there someplace We can find out some history of our 1954 26' cruiser serial #6484
WBCCI # 20731 ?
Thanks Doug and Jan

[Frank's Trailer Works]

contact streamer23 he knows all about all of the numbers.

[Silverwanabe]

I also have read against adding that type of hitch on the rear.
It places too much stress on the rear frame. All I think of is the dreaded frame separation.

I know Andy R. of Inland RV would not recommend adding any bikes or other objects to the rear of an Airstream.

He is also a great source for parts and information.

Good luck on your restoration.

[tinman54]

Finished prepping/painting frame today ,rust treatment,primed,aluminum enamel paint.Started getting the new floor ready.Also started building railing for front porch of house that I should have done 10 years ago,better to late than never Jan and I had some good supervision today with dad over.About 60-70 hours invested so far.Its been a good productive day

[toastie]

Originally Posted by tinman54

Finished prepping/painting frame today ,rust treatment,primed,aluminum enamel paint.Started getting the new floor ready.Also started building railing for front porch of house that I should have done 10 years ago,better to late than never Jan and I had some good supervision today with dad over.About 60-70 hours invested so far.Its been a good productive day

This is a good time to replace axle, rubber bushings, bolts and shackles and shocks.

[Sixty3TW4US]

Frame looks great!! I have a 63 TW dry wt. is 3300lb. I had Inland RV install a new axel and shocks a few months ago, they recomened a 5000lb axel. So far smooth stremin.

[tinman54]

I think I found a local dealer today that I can bring my axle into and get my new dexter axle from,he quoted me $475 for a new axle,brakes,leafs,complete,that is the best price I have gotten so far.

I am not sure if I need the new leafs yet the old ones look good?Now I need to find tanks ,then I can concentrate on fitting the new floor and sealing that with a marine type varnish.

Also the old axle had shocks on it ,does anyone know if these are original or necessary?

[tinman54]

It was a great day here in Wisconsin and a good airstream day.As I mentioned earlier I have been taking apart an old music stage for the plywood for my new floor.I finally got enough time today to get the rest of the plywood I needed.I like finding and reusing old material when I can.I ended up being able to do the 24' floor in 5 pieces 4-10'x4' and 1-8'x4'.Sealed both sides and edges and screwed down for now.Ended the day with a bought a 1/2 hr of daylight left so we were able to slide the shell back on,I hope to fabricate the new U channel for walls tomorrow.

[tinman54]

I only had one conner left for a pattern,so I cut the front corners.I will cut the back after the shell is on.I didn't get a chance to do the axle and tanks so I will have to do them the hard way,from the bottom.

[66Overlander]

The floor plywood was always originally oriented from side to side on all Airstreams I have ever seen. You made the new floor orienting the peices front to back, which creates a large seam down the middle. I hope you plan to put a stip of plywood (same thickness as the floor, maybe 12" wide, 6" on each side of the seam) below this seam and screw (staggered) (and glue?) it to each half to restore strength as if is was a single piece of wood, side to side. If you don't do this it will put additional stress on the outriggers to hold up the shell when it is reinstalled.

[Frank's Trailer Works]

By orienting the plywood that way I think you have changed the monocoque design somewhat. The trailer is designed to twist a bit as it goes over uneven terrain. A sheet of plywood is more apt to flex with the length. I might be totally wrong on this, but running the sheets side to side works with the tendency to flex. It helps encourage it to twist side to side, therefore down the length of the trailer. The way you have it, it will want to twist front to back. I will be curious to see how running it this way works for you. Hey it is just wood and that stuff grows on trees.

[muddy_hollow]

Originally Posted by tinman54

I think I found a local dealer today that I can bring my axle into and get my new dexter axle from,he quoted me $475 for a new axle,brakes,leafs,complete,that is the best price I have gotten so far.

I am not sure if I need the new leafs yet the old ones look good?Now I need to find tanks ,then I can concentrate on fitting the new floor and sealing that with a marine type varnish.

Also the old axle had shocks on it ,does anyone know if these are original or necessary?

Is that price installed or just the parts? I'm curious what's a reasonable cost for a new axle, as I'd like to do the same next year.

[tinman54]

Originally Posted by 66Overlander

The floor plywood was always originally oriented from side to side on all Airstreams I have ever seen. You made the new floor orienting the peices front to back, which creates a large seam down the middle. I hope you plan to put a stip of plywood (same thickness as the floor, maybe 12" wide, 6" on each side of the seam) below this seam and screw (staggered) (and glue?) it to each half to restore strength as if is was a single piece of wood, side to side. If you don't do this it will put additional stress on the outriggers to hold up the shell when it is reinstalled.

Thanks Joe,
I did think about the seam down the middle,I figuered between the 10' length and some good reinforcements on joints that it would all tie together pretty well.
Doug

[toastie]

Originally Posted by muddy_hollow

Is that price installed or just the parts? I'm curious what's a reasonable cost for a new axle, as I'd like to do the same next year.

This is the break down of my axle.

Axle is a Dexter.....#5200 straight 70" track 53" underslung...$189.00
Drum 12 x 2.....6 bolt.............................................. ............$159.30
Backing plate 12" L.H............................................... ..........$68.99
Backing plate 12" R.H............................................... ..........$68.99
U-Bolt kit............................................... ............................$14.00
Shackle Link...2.5"....5/8 hole.............................................. $9.00
Shackle Bolt....5/8"/ lock nut............................................... $29.34
Bushing............14-73 rednek............................................ ..$89.94
Grease and Pin............................................... ...................$5.00
Parts total............................................. .............................$633.56

Labor............................................. ....................................$75.00

Sale tax............................................... ..............................$38.01

Grand total............................................. ............................$746.57

Labor included: Install backing plate, clean and pack bearings, adj brakes
and weld on lower shock mounts, installed rubber bushings to leaf springs,

The shocks where bought at Amazon.com
2 Monroe 555002 Gas-Magnum R.......$18.39........................2 $36.78
(Per Monroe tech support)

Went with a local Dexter axle business was able to take the original axle in for very accurate measurements. Used existing leaf springs.

toastie

[toastie]

Originally Posted by tinman54

I think I found a local dealer today that I can bring my axle into and get my new dexter axle from,he quoted me $475 for a new axle,brakes,leafs,complete,that is the best price I have gotten so far.

I am not sure if I need the new leafs yet the old ones look good?Now I need to find tanks ,then I can concentrate on fitting the new floor and sealing that with a marine type varnish.

Also the old axle had shocks on it ,does anyone know if these are original or necessary?

tinman54

You might want to consider using the existing leaf spring if they are in good shape, new leaf springs are 24" on center and would create a possible bending moment on the frame.

toastie