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Old 09-27-2008, 09:09 PM   #29
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I thought you may want it to repair all the panels you need to replace.

Steve
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:09 PM   #30
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Steve,
Thats actually the first help I've had,I lost my mom this spring so i try to pick up my dad any chance I get.He can't see real good but he's great for an extra set of hands and advice. I think I've been drilling rivets for about two weeks,if I had 5 mins. I was out drilling rivets. If you have the material a good heating and a/c shop could make those wheel wells for you.
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:13 PM   #31
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A major issue I am dealing with currently is getting the rusted screws out of the front and rear rub railing. I have been soaking them in WD-40 a few times a day.

What extent did you go to brace your shell for lifting? How did you attach it to the trailer?

Steve
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:15 PM   #32
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I do want it but I don't have a good way of getting it and I don,t want to get side tracked from the current project.My wife is giving me hard time already because all I've been thinking about is this trailer.She's also giving me a lot of support.She's waiting for the fun interior layout and decorating stuff before she gets involved.
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:30 PM   #33
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Steve,
I screwed 2x4's down both sides at the base of the walls.Then I screwed about 5 cross braces from side to side.If I had a garage or pole building to work in I would put heavier cross members in and run ropes or cables threw the vent hatches in the roof to the roof trusses in the barn and host the shell off that way.As it was it wasn't to heavy,after the first jacking to loosen the shell ,I could lift while my dad positioned the saw horses .The hardest part was getting it high enough for the wheel wells to clear.I lowered it back down after I had the trailer out.It worked out well today because my extra help showed up just when I was ready to pull the frame out,I wanted spotters,I didn't want to hook a saw horse on the way out.
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Old 09-28-2008, 03:24 AM   #34
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To answer you question about frame flex... it does, a lot. This is why it is crucial to have the frame as straight (jack stands, ect.) when you put your floor onto it. You also want to make sure everything is flat and level when you put the shell back down. If you reconnect all that without doing it, your trailer will be banana shaped, or worse yet, pringle shaped. I think it is wicked cool that your Dad is helping you even if it is just for advice. This project is sure to change the life of everyone involved.
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Old 09-28-2008, 09:18 AM   #35
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rusted screws

Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic View Post
A major issue I am dealing with currently is getting the rusted screws out of the front and rear rub railing. I have been soaking them in WD-40 a few times a day.

What extent did you go to brace your shell for lifting? How did you attach it to the trailer?

Steve
Steve, see this post.
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Old 09-28-2008, 06:53 PM   #36
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Floor removal

Got a start on removing the old floor today.Since 3 of the 4 corners were gone I made a template from cardboard,hopefully it will help get things close.Only got a couple hours but it was fun,working on airstream while listening to the Vap.
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Old 09-28-2008, 08:55 PM   #37
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Doug - great progress. Your U-Channel around the perimeter looked chopped up in the corners, is that just the pic?
The perimeter channel curved section can be vital in fitting your floor. Hopefully I explain this right, but if you use clecos to re-attach the curves back to the steel front plate, right into the same rivet holes they were in, then you can slide an uncut 4x8 floor panel on the frame, under the channel, and then just trace the curves. This would skip the cardboard pattern altogether.
In fact, I would get all my 7 or 8 4x8 floor boards and lay them all on the frame at once (especially if you plan on using tongue-and-grove product). Get the curved u-channel sections clecoe'd in place, then trace it out. I think you'll get a much more accurate measure this way that using the pattern. But, it's just a suggestion, lots of ways to do it.

Steve - when I had my new wheel wells made, I did not account for the fact that they are narrower in width at the base and wider at the top. This of course follows the bowing-out curve of the shell. I had to make a "adapter" to fit it after the fact. You probably knew this, I'm still a newbie, but I don't want anyone to repeat my mistakes.
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Old 09-28-2008, 09:58 PM   #38
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Hey, that frame doesn't look half bad! A little cleaning, POR 15, and good as new. I like the laptop.. looks like Airforums open on the screen?
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Old 09-29-2008, 10:41 PM   #39
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Well I didn't get much time today,but I did locate new3/4 plywood floor from an old music stage,it looks like good stuff 7 ply and after I treat it with a marine finish it should last for a long time.I did get another 2 feet of floor off,some parts are fastened pretty well yet.The family thinks its pretty cool that there are so many people looking at this from around the country,It would be great if everyone signed in,to see if I can cover all 50 states.
This is a lot of fun,Thanks for checking
Doug
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Old 09-29-2008, 10:56 PM   #40
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I've been trying to search the forums for any different floor plan ideasfor a 25 footer if anyone has a good link,my internet at home has been running reeeaaalll slooooow so searches have been hard.I want to stay with the central bathroom,rear double bed,I'm not real sure how to set up the black and Gray tanks yet,I have looked at the vintage airstream site that offers some good pics. of the set up.The toilet must fasten right on to the black tank,so positioning of that has to be pretty accurate ?
Thanks Doug
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Old 10-04-2008, 12:18 AM   #41
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Clean frame

Finished cleaning off the frame last night.The main frame rails look real good,2 or 3 cross members are a little rusty,I'll see after the wire brush if they will need to be replaced.The wheel wells are in good shape anyway and reusable.The U channel on the edges is in really bad shape and will have to be remade,there were no corners,just a bunch of little pieces,so I will have to rely on my pattern to shape the new floor.The axle looks like it is in pretty good shape but I thought I should replace it just because of its age and I like the idea of gaining a couple more inches clearance with a straight axle.Is it a problem or costly to find replacement wheels for the original wheels if I kept it?Getting closer to that turn around time when I can go the other direction and put her back together.Hoping to end up with one of those nice shiny cruiser's like the one's in the vintage airstream's archives.http://www.vintageairstream.com/arch...er1/index.html
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Old 10-04-2008, 04:12 AM   #42
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Doug

Great progress to date. You work fast.

A couple of thoughts:
  1. IMHO you would do well to swap out the axle. This is about the easiest time to do so with complete access. It amazes me that people will invest thousands of dollars and hours into a restoration and then risk it all by not swapping out 50+ year old axles and springs when they have the opportunity. I realize that it is a cost that many hope to avoid but there are few things worse than sitting on the side of the road with wheel bearing problems, or a broken spindle, and then finding yourself at the mercy of a shop you know little if anything about as they try to retrofit to your rig.
  2. Where the heavy appliances are going to go it might make sense to add a bit more support to the frame. Also where you are going to put your water and waste tanks if they are going to be hung below the floor now would be the ideal time to strengthen the frame in those areas in addition to putting the hangers in place.
  3. Getting your dad involved is a wonderful idea and I'm sure he is enjoying this. So many times we forget that just because an older parent/neighbor/friend may have a hearing or visual impairment doesn't mean that they can't help out in many ways, even if it is just sitting on the sidelines providing play by play coaching. I wish my dad was around to do this with me and you are lucky to still have yours with you.
  4. Are you intending to carry the spare tire in the front or underneath. Also, where are you placing the battery(s)? If on the tongue you may want to strengthen that area or even add length and the brackets while you can weld without impacting the body. Same for bike rack out back in future. If this is a potential now is the time to add strength to that area and an appropriate mounting bracket as well. The original frames were not the strongest and I've read here many times that people have had frame issues by simply adding a bike rack and a couple of heavy bikes on the back and then bouncing down the highways and byways for a while.
Please keep the pictures and dialog coming. For those of us on the electronic sidelines it is very much appreciated.

Barry
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