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Old 08-25-2012, 09:14 PM   #501
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A/c

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Originally Posted by goshawks00 View Post
Doug it's been a while now,have you been able to get the A/C issue straightened out yet? I have yet to pull the trigger on a floor mounted A/C install and after talking to you, I am still unsettled about the placement and routing for income/exhaust ducting. Hope all is well and again great job!!!
Barry & Karen
Hi Barry, I did get back to it recently and got the a/c working better but not perfect. I pulled it all back out and built better duct for the exhaust and added 2 -8" computer type fans inside the duct for better exhaust flow, sorry I don't have a picture or much information about the fans, all I can say is that they pull a lot of air through the condenser coil. Then I cut the original housing away from the a/c and built a box around the unit so the incoming are could flow better. I think if I cut a little bigger hole through the floor for the incoming air I could get rid of the small inlet fans. Even with 4 fans it is still quieter then a rooftop unit.

My other option if I gave up the rear storage is to move the unit to the back like Toastie and exhaust out the rear door and duct the cool air out to the front of the bed.

Otherwise I have just been working on lots of little things, shelves, door knobs, a little more polishing, silverware holder, trimmed the stove and started building a new workshop in the Cruiser barn. and always looking for another vintage camper

Soon we will be heading out to make the loop around Lake Superior, about 1700 miles so we will see how she holds up So far my wife and I are loving our time in on the road, if the job would allow it we would take a year long trip.

Doug
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:27 AM   #502
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Glad to hear you have the AC working better. Do you think the issue has anything to do with trying to blow the hot exhaust out through the bottom of the floor? Maybe because hot air naturally wants to raise rather than be forced down and out? Sorry for the questions, just curious as I will be doing a similar install, using the space under the sink counter where our original furnace was, and will have to deal with ducting the exhaust out some how. Great to hear you're using it , and hope your "fall' trip goes well.
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:31 AM   #503
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A/c

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Originally Posted by goshawks00 View Post
Glad to hear you have the AC working better. Do you think the issue has anything to do with trying to blow the hot exhaust out through the bottom of the floor? Maybe because hot air naturally wants to raise rather than be forced down and out? Sorry for the questions, just curious as I will be doing a similar install, using the space under the sink counter where our original furnace was, and will have to deal with ducting the exhaust out some how. Great to hear you're using it , and hope your "fall' trip goes well.
I just was not moving enough air, not a problem exhausting down, I just needed a bigger fan to force it down. I should have set up the hole thing in the garage first but I usually just dive in and fix or adjust as I go, live and learn.
I hope your install works good.
Doug
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:59 PM   #504
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Awning information

I have not been on here for a while, I have been building a new workshop in the Airstream barn, and dreaming of the next vintage camper project.

As the temp drops below zero here tonight and the wind howls at 30-40mph outside we started talking about the Cruiser and thinking about a vintage type rope and pole awning.

Has anyone had problems with sudden storms or wind taking them off? It seems like it would be hard to take down quickly if need be?

Also wondering if anyone has recommendations for a source to purchase, Vintage Trailer or Marti's or???

Thanks for any help
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:20 AM   #505
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Darn, Doug, I'd be afraid to work in a shop that nice!

I'm making a rope and pole awning for mine right now and have been tossing around the wind and putting up and taking down stuff for months. I know from my boat experience that it's easy on those nice nights that you decide to leave it up, you can set your alarm for 2 AM. That is always the hour it will blow!

Since I'm by myself, I have to be able to get the thing down in the wind and what I want to avoid is dealing with sliding through the track. Colin uses some sailboat ideas to help move it through the track and I'll do the same. Calm conditions I know I can do that by myself. In the wind, though, I want to be able to roll it up and secure it at the awning track. I've seen a few at rallies done this way.

Mine will just have a 1" aluminum tube in a sleeve that it'll roll up on. Pins on the poles will go through the tube. If it doesn't work, it will be easy to revert to a normal rope and pole awning.

I will try to get some pics on my thread in a week or so as we get it finished.

Cheers,
steve
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:28 PM   #506
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Sounds interesting Steve, I look forward to seeing your work!
Thanks Doug
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:10 AM   #507
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My one comment after sewing ours is to measure the distance from ground to awning track, and subtract 6" to get your total awning *width* or distance from trailer. We accidentally chose that number by playing around with a tape measure and deciding what wouldn't pull too far away from the camper, and now I am very happy we didn't make it even a few inches longer. Every time we take it down, we can take the poles out and gently let it hang against the side while we get ready to pull it out of the track.

As for sailboat tactics, soapy water has always been my favorite for getting the bolt rope through, but I'm thinking of installing a luff bolt feeder from West Marine. Can't find the link on my phone, will try later.

- Peter
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:59 AM   #508
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Growing up around a sailboat I have always assumed that I would use a "feeder" on my awning rail if I go with rope and pole awning. We had flared fitting that mounted below the track that the main sail went in. When the main went up it was fast and easy.
And I think Peter has the right idea about the length of the awning. Once the awning is hanging against the trailer it should be easier to roll up or remove as the wind shouldn't have as much luck grabbing it
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:22 AM   #509
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Awning information

Thanks Peter and Brad!
I hadn't thought of the length much, that is a good point. I was always thinking bigger is better:-) I was originally going to do 8 or 9' wide and it would have been a struggle to keep it out of the dirt! After measuring Nellie the awning would be 16 feet long and 7 feet wide, it is about 7'7" from the rail to the ground. I was going to have Marti install extra grommets in the awning by the rail side so I can attach a pull line to it when I am installing it, then with a pulley on the opposite end of the rail I should be able to install the awning by myself? https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-<...2/DSCF0007.JPG
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:06 AM   #510
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"I just was not moving enough air"

The problem with most of the installs with loor A/C' in IMHO is just as tinman54 stated. Not moving enough air-If the output across the evaporator is 600cfm, then the intake and the exhaust airflow MUST be equal to this or the unit will not cool. An A/C shop can calculate for you the size of your duct work to accomplish this. Putting the fans in can help tremendously, but, you are just doing what could have been done with duct work-increasing airflow.
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:28 AM   #511
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I would love for some of you to put pictures of your rope & pulley ideas on here. I have no concept of what a "luff bolt feeder" does, or how it would be mounted on an awning rail. I'd like to explore that concept before biting the bullet on a Zip Dee for my little trailer!
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:09 PM   #512
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I talked to Marti from Marti's awnings today, she had quite a few recommendations on the forums. Sounds like her prices are in line and the pictures she has on Facebook look very good!
I was thinking of having the awning made in 2-8' sections so we would have the option of just half if we wanted? Also easier to handle 2 smaller pieces than 1 large one.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:41 AM   #513
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Quote:
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I would love for some of you to put pictures of your rope & pulley ideas on here. I have no concept of what a "luff bolt feeder" does, or how it would be mounted on an awning rail. I'd like to explore that concept before biting the bullet on a Zip Dee for my little trailer!
Expensive commercial designs: Luff Prefeeder
Alternate feeder

They basically just keep the luff rope a certain distance from the track.

Portions of text from the Hobie Cat website regarding applicable concepts of feeding luff rope:
Raising the mainsail of a Hobie can be more difficult than need be.

Several factors can cause the mainsail to be difficult to hoist. Dirty luff ropes and luff tracks. These can be cleaned with soapy water and a scrub brush. If you want to use a lubricant, keep away from oils and waxes that can attract dirt. Use a dry silicone spray. Most all Hobie sails now have a Teflon threaded bolt (luff) rope to ease the hoisting effort.
Keep the batten tension to a minimum. Hoist the sail slowly, while feeding into the mast opening. When the sail gets about 3/4’s of the way up, begin aggressively feeding at the bottom opening and reduce the amount of halyard effort. If the halyard is pulled tight when the sail is not being fed into and up the track, you will have problems.


Then again, you may have no problems at all, but if you do, those are some things to consider. The pulley system should work perfectly. That's exactly how you raise the luff rope in a mast, and they've been doing that for 50 years!
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:50 AM   #514
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awnings

Marti lives pretty close to us, so she attends most of the vintage rallies we attend. We have purchased 3 from her, and are happy, and at least 1/3 of the vintage trailers at our rallies have her awnings.
I would never rely on a pull rope, it will help, but there is more to it than that. On a sail boat, things go up or down. Sideways is quite different. The heavier the fabric, the bigger the fight. You are working at the end of your reach, need 2 people, and the shorter person is always "less happy", and you are sure to forget your stepstool. Your trailer step is to short, and a ladder is too tall.
As for 2-part, I see good and bad. Yes, it is eaiser to handle and for a quick trip you may only want to put up half. But how would the 2 attach? Often you want the awning to keep out water. How will it do that where they come together? Will each part be without a valance on one end?
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:34 AM   #515
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awning

Hi, Dont know if the way i ended up doing mine is of any use. cost just over £100. and its extendable if needed. pics are on my posts. cheers Greg.
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:24 AM   #516
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Thanks for the comments, a few things to think about!! Simple is probably better, so may stay with one piece.

Has anyone ever done different shapes like triangle or sail shaped(less poles in the way?)
Thanks again Doug
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:14 PM   #517
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One shaped in the profile of your AS might look kinda cool.
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:53 AM   #518
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One of our trailers is 24' 1958 Roadliner whe have done in a very mid-century modern style. I talked to Marti about having a large triangle on the side angled to the front, and a smaller one over the front window angled back toward the big one. Marti didn't see a problem, but time got away from us.
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:10 PM   #519
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Rewinding a bit, it looks like your plywood wall dividers have a metal flange that follows the contour of the walls and fastens it. Did you make these, and if so care to school me? Im sure I could brake a piece and use a shrinker, but I'm hoping you can enlighten me to an easier route.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:39 PM   #520
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F-channel

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Rewinding a bit, it looks like your plywood wall dividers have a metal flange that follows the contour of the walls and fastens it. Did you make these, and if so care to school me? Im sure I could brake a piece and use a shrinker, but I'm hoping you can enlighten me to an easier route.
It was original to the Cruiser, it is called F channel, fairly flexible aluminum.
Available at Vintage Trailer Supply

Bulkhead Moulding
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