Years for tambour doors on Argosy trailers?

AndyPenny · 03-18-2008, 09:34 AM

Does anyone know which year(s) the full-width Argosy trailers had the tambour doors? Were they standard or an option. My built late in 1975 (sold in 1976) 24' twin has them, but the 1976 brochure that came with it shows the solid hinged doors throughout instead of the tambour doors (which are in perfect condition, incredibly, with all of the plastic slide-out drawers in place).

Thanks in advance for the information.

overlander64 · 03-18-2008, 10:08 AM

Greetings AndyPenny!

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyPenny

Does anyone know which year(s) the full-width Argosy trailers had the tambour doors? Were they standard or an option. My built late in 1975 (sold in 1976) 24' twin has them, but the 1976 brochure that came with it shows the solid hinged doors throughout instead of the tambour doors (which are in perfect condition, incredibly, with all of the plastic slide-out drawers in place).

Thanks in advance for the information.

This is one of the areas where the exact answer is not generally known. The thinking is that the change was something of a "running" change during the model year and may have occurred at different times in the two assembly plants. Most of the time, the coaches shown in the brochures were produced in the Argosy plant in Ohio -- and as with the Vintage Airstreams coaches built in the California Argosy assembly plant may have had such differences. My data shows California production occurred through the end of the 1978 model year for Argosy.

I am not certrain precisely when the tambours were adopted in the Argosy coaches, nor am I certain whether there was any particular consistency in their use.

Kevin

Duff23 · 07-11-2008, 08:25 AM

The '76 Argosy 26 I just picked up also has a full compliment of tambour doors...every one of which is 100% intact!

I am wondering if there is some trick to prolonging their life. The two below the kitchen sink (1 big long wide one and 1 long narrow one) bind up when they're only about 12" open; all others open easily. I don't want to force them open and break them.

Perhaps the tracks have some dirt in them or something that needs to be cleaned out. Any advice will be appreciated.

Duff

**Janet** · 07-11-2008, 08:42 AM

Cleaning may help, as may waxing the tracks but often binding is caused because the cabinets have moved a little over the years and the doors are pinched (vertically).

Duff23 · 07-11-2008, 09:49 AM

Thanks Janet. So how do I remove the tambours to get into the tracks for cleaning and waxing? What kind of wax do you use? Do you know if I can shim up the counter top to provide relief in the tracks?

**overlander63** · 07-11-2008, 09:58 AM

There are usually 2 or 3 phillips screws holding the tracks in place, unless they are vertical tambours, then it is much more involved. On the horizontal tambours, remove the screws on both tracks, and lift slightly, pull out the bottom part of the tracks, and slide the assembly out.

Duff23 · 07-11-2008, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

There are usually 2 or 3 phillips screws holding the tracks in place, unless they are vertical tambours, then it is much more involved. On the horizontal tambours, remove the screws on both tracks, and lift slightly, pull out the bottom part of the tracks, and slide the assembly out.

Thanks. The ones that are stiff are of the vertical variety.

Argonaut20 · 07-11-2008, 07:45 PM

Get out the swabs and clean the tracks. We found that lifting the door slightly as we open and close it makes it work MUCH better with less stress on the door. We found on one '79 Minuet that the tracks were so unparallel that the door would actually leave the track when closed. Shimming the bottom so the door stayed engaged solved the sticking problem. Between the shimming and the 'lifting' trick, the door worked smoothly. I use an old tube of 'Slipicon' (sp??) for lube. It is a silicone release agent that dates back to the 70's.

Duff23 · 07-14-2008, 07:12 PM

I really have two problems here. I need to get water into the system to see what's leaking but before I do that I have to repair a copper fitting that I can see is disconnected under the sink. The trouble is that I can't get to the fitting because I can only open the tambour about 1/3 of the opening. I think I need to disassemble the kitchen counter to fix both the fitting and the tambours. Is there any advice on how might I get started with the disassembly?

Thanks,
Duff

Argonaut20 · 07-14-2008, 08:48 PM

It sounds like a Catch 22 here. You have to disassemble the counter top to get at the door, but you need to be able to open the door to disassemble the counter top. The counter is held with screws from underneath and the sink would have to be disconnected to get the counter off so you would have to get at the pipes for the fixture.

It sounds like the door is binding in the track or in the little scroll like arrangement it coils into when open. If it is the track, it won't have any 'slop' (up and down motion) possible when open as far as you can get it open. Check the tracks for parallel. The leading edge of the door is a moulding that basically keeps the door in the track. If there is slop when the door is closed and none when the door binds, the tracks are not parallel. If the problem is binding in the little scroll housing you may be able to work the door into opening by pushing it open while working it up and down. These doors can be pushed but are weak when pulled. If you can reach in far enough to feel the edge of the housing while the door is being opened, you might feel some obstruction. I suppose the door could be bowing a bit and catching on something. Try pushing in on the middle of the door as you try to open it. Push where it goes into the cabinet.

I guess the thing I need to say is that the door should open. Most of the time the trouble is maddening but minor. Messing with it is usually what it takes. You can push these doors but they don't take pulling well.

Argonaut20 · 07-14-2008, 08:54 PM

Talk to duo_77340 as he just replaced this door.

Duff23 · 07-16-2008, 06:28 PM

I managed to get them open about 3/4 of the way by lifting and pushing with the left hand while assisting the rolling action with right hand. It's far enough open that I can work on the plumbing. For some reason I felt compelled to remove the sink too...now the plumbing is very accessible. It looks like I have a 1/2" to 3/8" copper fitting that gave way leading into the faucet.

I'd still like to figure out how to get into the tambour housings so that I can clean the tracks thoroughly. I'm wondering if a mouse got in there and made a home that is interfering with the roll-up action of the tambour. Does anybody know how to get in there (I haven't contacted duo_77340 yet)?

Argonaut20 · 07-17-2008, 08:34 AM

I also found one of the problems with my under sink tambour was that someone had driven a screw into the area the door had to occupy. The result was the door would bind when opening as the screw would catch the tambours. Wiggling the door and pushing (and cursing) would get the door open. Backing the screw out solved that problem. I am fortunate that I can see and clean the lower scroll from the cabinet next to it.