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Old 07-26-2012, 11:57 PM   #1
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1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
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Update on '74 Argosy 26' remodel

A few shots of some of the upgrades I have made over the past 2 1/2 years.

Twinkie Ugrades pictures by dougbowman88 - Photobucket
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:12 AM   #2
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Looks great!
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:08 AM   #3
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Wow, you have been busy. Nice job.
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Old 07-27-2012, 08:23 AM   #4
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I agree- nice looking interior! Have a good trip to Canada in September, wish I was joining you- tim
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:58 AM   #5
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1976 25' Tradewind
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Love the the kitchen cabinets (well, I love everything, but esp the kitchen cabs) - did you build those yourself? What kind of wood did you use?
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:40 PM   #6
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I did build the galley and berthing area cabinets. In the galley, The rails and styles are Red Oak, the panels are Maple.
In the berthing area the rails and styles are Hickory And the panels are Maple.
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Old 07-29-2012, 02:14 PM   #7
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Tg Twinkie I am taking on a similar project same year and model. Any tips on what I may run into. I am stripping everything out except floors and shelving above bunk by the door. Thanks
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:37 AM   #8
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I built new base cabinets and totally removed the old units. As for the overhead storage compartments which had swing up doors about 5 foot long. I removed the old doors and built new face frames, doors and end panels. It felt using the original aluminum frames that are still fastened firmly to the trailer was a better idea than tearing them out and having to come up with an equal or better anchor method. I installed two doors in each cabinet instead of 1 long door.
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Old 08-10-2012, 07:22 PM   #9
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Most impressive. I have just finished a 79 Argo whose interior was very good, "just" needed major systems, plumbing, AC, fridge, etc. I currently have an Avalair gutted that I will definitely "steal" some ideas from your most excellent work!
Thanks for sharing the pics.
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:47 PM   #10
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TG Twinkie, when you did your remodel, did you remove all the bathroom? I noticed some bad floor at the rear of my Argosy when re-doing the plumbing, but when I look into the back end from the bumper storage area, it looks as if the black tank is on a metal platform, and just wood at the sides, and under the tub?? Is yours the same?
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:43 PM   #11
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I removed everything but the tub. Including the closet. I did not remove the inner skin. The black water tank rested on a plywood floor that had significant damage. I replaced the damaged plywood and built a new box around and over the black water tank using 3/4" plywood instead of the 1/4" stuff that A$ used.
The cold and hot water lines for the galley sink ran between the BW tank and the front of the box then made a 90 degree turn and ran along the front bottom edge of the tub. When I installed new PEX tubing I ran it behind the tub, therefor eliminating any joints. There was a lot of freeze damage to the original copper pipes. But luckily the two 3/8 copper lines going to the tub faucet were not damaged. I was able to tie these lines into the PEX inside the cabinet that is next to the toilet. Other than a couple of feet of copper going to the tub, everything else has been replaced with PEX.
I did buy a new toilet and toilet flange for the BW tank. I fabricated a wrench to remove the old flange from the BW tank. Which unscrews. I was able to remove, leak test the BW tank and reinstall it without removing the belly pan. And I just recently replaced the BW dump valve, also without removing the belly pan.
Hope this helps.
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:31 PM   #12
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I am able to see up inside from the bumper storage compartment. The BW tank extends down below the floor thru an opening, and the valve is behind a metal plate, at bumper level. It appears as if the tank is supported at the perimeter, but not in the middle, because of the drain. Is this the same with your unit?
I also ran pex behind the tank at floor level to the kitchen faucet. I did have bad copper at the tub, so had to remove screws and belt molding around the tub to get at the faucet. I used SS flexible lines, 2 back to back for each cold and hot lines, connected to pex under the sink. Hope I never have to do that part again. Tnx for the info on your unit. Eventually I wii have to remove toilet, sink and BW tank to do new wood.
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:35 PM   #13
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You are correct that the discharge from the tank goes thru a large hole in the floor. I would guess it's about 1/4 the area of the bottom of the BW tank. I think if you look under the vanity cabinet on the right hand side, you will see two vent pipes. One is for the BW tank the other for Grey Water. The BW tank goes from the vent pipe on the right to the side of the tub on the left. So it has relatively strong support for the size of the tank, 12 gallons.
One other thing I did was to caulk the crack between the top of the trunk (behind the hinge) and the lower band that wraps around the trailer. I did this in an attempt to prevent water getting in on the floor because it runs behind the band as it collects on the trunk lid and mounting plate for the hinge.
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:08 PM   #14
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Ok. Mine is missing the wood that supports the tank at the rear, from the back bracket going forward about 12". I too caulked the area above the hinge at the belt line alluminum molding. It is too late for the wood that was there, but for the new wood I install. Thanks again for the info.
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