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Old 08-07-2014, 07:52 AM   #15
Bex
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Another option, my local Electrical Automotive expert told me, was to use a (smart) charger and eliminate the charge line in the univolt, if the Univolt works OK. They use one of these chargers on the bench and have a battery permanently plugged in to it for the last 4 years for testing alternators and starters.
I think I will do this for now.
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Old 10-01-2014, 08:01 PM   #16
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Distribution Panel WOES

I like the discussion about the Univolts and charging! I am not quite that far, yet, though. Does anyone know where I could find a diagram for the distribution panel in a 78 Minuet?

The PO had spliced several wires into the panel, so there are lots of mysterious wiring nuts attached to the original wires. The mystery deepens, since the wires then go back behind the wall, I have no idea where they end up , or for what...

Any help is appreciated.
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Old 10-01-2014, 08:27 PM   #17
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Picture??? If the wires go behind the walls, they are probably original wires. You should have a fuse block with the old style auto fuses. Fused items include the furnace, lights, water pump. If you have a battery installed, pull a fuse and see what doesn't work that did before. Replace and pull the next fuse. You will get a map of the 12V fuses this way.
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Old 10-01-2014, 08:43 PM   #18
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As an aside, shop ebay for the intellipower units. IMHO using a float charger will be wasted time and money if replacing the Univolt is in your plans. With care, you can use the Univolt until you are ready to upgrade. The problems with boiling the battery are long term as a rule: Months plugged in. The intellipower install is easy: unplug the Univolt and disconnect the 12V connections from the fuse block. Undo whatever is holding the Univolt to the floor and remove it. Put the intellipower unit in and put a couple of screws through the feet into the floor. Connect the 12V to the fuse block, plug the 120V plug into the receptacle and you are done. The worst part is lying on the floor, reaching into the cabinet.
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