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Old 09-25-2009, 01:18 PM   #1
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Trailer interior lights

The continuing saga with our "new to us" 1976 28 foot Argosy. We purchased it about 2 weeks ago. We had a RV repair guy come to check things out. He found-
ONE-The refrigerator is pooched..dead. So we need to get something to fit in this space..Suggestions? I am worried if we tow it with a regular kitchen refrigerator it might damage it? We don't usually tow it except once a summer to camp off our regular seasonal site for a week or two. Thoughts on this? Remember I am not that handy at all..but follow directions well Dimensions are for a Dometic 76..I think roughly 57"H, 25"W, and 24" Deep. We only need a electric set up. The repair guy has set it up, so I can just take it out and there is a plug there to put in a new one.
TWO- all interior lights do not work...The guy who checked it out, checked the circuit breakers..the battery and the univolt with the fuses..he said they were all fine, but thinks the problem may be buried in the floor. It is disappointing..but suggestions for alternative lighting..we have lots of plugs that work Any final check points..I looked at the fuses again last evening..since someone at work who has a trailer said it could be something simple..but they all looked good (I assume I would know what a burnt out fuse looks like )
Thanks again..you are all so good,
Wade (stratford ont..still enjoying late summer weather!)
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Old 09-25-2009, 01:43 PM   #2
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The following chart will tell you what will fit in the hole left by your old fridge. Did the repair guy say what was wrong with the unit?

http://www.dometic.com/71390b03-95e5...405775ef.fodoc
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Old 09-25-2009, 02:00 PM   #3
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Hi Richard- Thanks for the chart...I afraid to look at the cost of a new Dometic...
The repair guy said (please excuse my ignorance on this stuff !) that there was something leaking out the back when he opened the refrigerator door on the outside of the unit? Make sense?
Wade
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Old 09-25-2009, 02:11 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by phibbs View Post
Hi Richard- Thanks for the chart...I afraid to look at the cost of a new Dometic...
The repair guy said (please excuse my ignorance on this stuff !) that there was something leaking out the back when he opened the refrigerator door on the outside of the unit? Make sense?
Wade
Probably ammonia leaking. RV refrigerators use ammonia and heat rather than "Freon" or its equivalent and a compressor for cooling.

Here's what I decided last year for a new fridge: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...aes-44474.html.
Camping World has a price matching policy for members that saved me quite a bit.

Don't know about the lights, a lot depends on what kind they are and what fixtures are used. Incandescent or fluorescent? You need to check the wires to the fixtures to ensure that there is 12 volts making it to them. A little more info would help.

Best of luck!
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Old 10-01-2009, 02:47 PM   #5
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...none of the lights on our 1972 worked either when we got it but the plugs and stuff were fine. The ground wires for the lights were corroded where they rivet to the skin...they looked OK but no contact until I wiggled one the rivets. I drilled the rivets out, scraped the contact points and re-attached them. Hope that works for yours.
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Old 10-01-2009, 03:12 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by phibbs View Post
we need to get something to fit in this space..Suggestions?

TWO- all interior lights do not work...The guy who checked it out, checked the circuit breakers..the battery and the univolt with the fuses..he said they were all fine, but thinks the problem may be buried in the floor
ONE: Don't count on finding an exact fit. You may have to go bigger or smaller and redo the cabiniets accordingly. The main RV fridges are Dometic and Norcold. A 2 way would be fine. A 3 way I think is unecessary and using 12v for the fridge will drain your battery real quick.

TWO: Don't assume the rv repair guy knows what he is talking about. I am immediately skeptical when he says the problem is in the floor. There are no wires in the floor. You need a Vintage Airstream Repair Guy. The first place I would check again is you have power coming out of the fuses to all 4 circuits, a 5 min job.
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Old 10-01-2009, 04:16 PM   #7
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If the univolt is putting out it's 13v, and you have it available across both sides of all the fuses, but none at any 12v device, then my first guess would be a bad ground, but unless a 76 Argosy is WAY different from a '79 AS, which I do not believe to be true, there is not much wiring below the floor, and more importantly, the 12 supplies run through the ceiling, and branch DOWN from there. I literally touched mine in the ceiling today. I bet you can look at your fuse box connections, and it will even tell you what color the wire for each circuit is right there on the box.
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:36 PM   #8
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Frankly, it sounds like the main ground from the univolt should be looked at closely. If you use a test light (12 volt bulb will do) and run a wire from the univolt output to the bulb center and another wire from the bulb body to the metal body of the trailer or the screw that holds the ground to the body. If the bulb lights on the screw but not on the body, ground is bad there. The lights all ground to the shell of the trailer so if none work the ground to the shell is the first place to check. The light will also tell if you are getting power from the univolt: If you can't get the bulb to light when one wire is on the univolt + and the other is on the univolt -, the univolt isn't working.
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Old 10-01-2009, 09:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vswingfield View Post
Probably ammonia leaking. RV refrigerators use ammonia and heat rather than "Freon" or its equivalent and a compressor for cooling.

Here's what I decided last year for a new fridge: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...aes-44474.html.
Camping World has a price matching policy for members that saved me quite a bit.

Don't know about the lights, a lot depends on what kind they are and what fixtures are used. Incandescent or fluorescent? You need to check the wires to the fixtures to ensure that there is 12 volts making it to them. A little more info would help.

Best of luck!

I noticed you live in Little Rock. Are you familiar with the place in Conway that rebuilds refridgerators? I can't remember the name but I always thought I would give them a try next time I have problems. Thanks
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Old 10-01-2009, 10:13 PM   #10
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I noticed you live in Little Rock. Are you familiar with the place in Conway that rebuilds refridgerators? I can't remember the name but I always thought I would give them a try next time I have problems. Thanks
Hi Grumpy,

I have seen them from I40, but can't remember their name. I can find out more about them if you need the info. In my case, the one I was replacing had too much wrong. The seals were useless in the doors, shelves were missing, and the box itself was pretty much junk. Since I live in the Excella, I get a lot of use from the new unit and its icemaker.

Speaking of noticing where you live, I lived in Wimberley before I moved to Little Rock. Well, Rolling Oaks, actually. Got my Trade Wind in San Marcos while I lived in RO.
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:26 PM   #11
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Thanks for the help so far. I am not handy at all with regards to the inverter...can someone dumb it down for me or post photos?? It sounds like it might be an easy fix. My neighbour is an electrician..maybe I could ask him to check it out?
Wade
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:41 PM   #12
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Thanks for the help so far. I am not handy at all with regards to the inverter...can someone dumb it down for me or post photos?? It sounds like it might be an easy fix. My neighbour is an electrician..maybe I could ask him to check it out?
Wade
If you are referring to the Univolt, it is a converter. The Univolt converts 120 to 12v. An inverter converts 12v to 120
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:45 AM   #13
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Sorry I am really not great at grasping all this. Maybe I will ask my electrician neighbour to check it out. I have appreciated all your help! When I checked the fuses they all look fine. The trailer repair guy..said he had the wires functioning to the box and even coming out of the box...but after that it was lost. The mystery continues. Likely won't do much till Spring..sad to say but this is our last weekend for the trailer park.
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Old 10-07-2009, 05:56 PM   #14
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I am a big fan of simple when dealing with 12 volt electrical stuff. Get an automobile light socket with wires to it from an auto supply store and get a bulb to fit it. You might also want to get some alligator clips to put on the ends of the wires so you can clip one end and move the other end from contact to contact. If the bulb lights, you have power there and a circuit. If no light, then you are either on the same polarity with both wires or there is no power. The Univolt has two outputs, one plus and one minus. Locate the two outputs and where they go in reference to the fuse block. One lead will be feeding power to the fuse block, the other will go to ground. You should be able to hold one wire of your test light on one of the fuse holders and touch the other end to the aluminum shell or a screw that holds something to the shell and get a light. You have to get bare metal from the frame for contact. If there is no light and the univolt is plugged in and on, then the trouble is likely the ground from the univolt to the frame or the univolt is dead. If the repair guy got power to the fuse box you should be able to get the light to work. Clip one lead from your light to the lead into the fuse box and touch the other end to the other output from the univolt. If the univolt is on and there is no light there is a ground problem right at the point the univolt grounds to the frame. I can't help but think your problem is right in the wiring around the univolt or in the univolt itself.
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