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Old 05-09-2006, 06:59 PM   #1
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1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Ferndale , Washington
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Shower stall question

Okay, my first post of a question. The shower wall on my'78 6 metre Minuet that faces the front of the trailer looks the same as the other walls. Is this correct? Perhaps it has a waterproof coating, or is something missing? Regarding the shower surround, it is showing it's age, is there anyone out there who has found a suitable replacement for the or has tried to adapt more modern materials to the task? Any help or thoughts and innermost feelings would be appreciated.

Gergstuff
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:30 PM   #2
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Shower stall question

Greetings Gergstuff!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gergstuff
Okay, my first post of a question. The shower wall on my'78 6 metre Minuet that faces the front of the trailer looks the same as the other walls. Is this correct? Perhaps it has a waterproof coating, or is something missing? Regarding the shower surround, it is showing it's age, is there anyone out there who has found a suitable replacement for the or has tried to adapt more modern materials to the task? Any help or thoughts and innermost feelings would be appreciated.

Gergstuff
The bulkhead wall (the one that faces the front of the coach) is likely vinyl-clad aluminum if it is similar to what is utilized in my '78 Minuet. Other than the tambour, all wall and cabinet surfaces in my Minuet are some form of vinyl-clad aluminum. The shower pan, vanity top, and Thetford toilet can all be refinished by processes familiar to bathroom refinishers -- I have asked the vendor who handled my Overlander and he was certain that these items would be readily refinishable, but he was less confident about the wall/ceiling treatment.

The formed plastic product that covers the curved bathroom walls has proven to be a problem in my coach as well. About the only professional that I haven't consulted about its repair is the gentleman who refinished the bathroom in my Overlander -- I haven't been able to find anyone who has been able to offer a process that is likely to sucessfully refurbish the product that was originally utilized in the Minuet bath.

In fact, if you haven't already checked, your Minuet has a very high probability of having aluminum composite flooring that eliminates one of the major potential rot areas. It does have some problems of its own, but it is possible to cope with most of them without too much difficulty.

Good luck with your Minuet!

Kevin
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Old 05-09-2006, 09:47 PM   #3
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This is just a guess, but I believe the panels on the sides of the Minuet shower are ABS panels that can be replaced. The use of plastic weld on them was not successful for me as the panel was cracked throughout its length, from back window to bulkhead. As a temporary fix, I put a silicone with high adhesive properties on the crack and tried to work it into the crack hoping the flexible nature of the silicone would keep it sealed until I am through traveling this Spring. This summer I hope to try to replace the panel or find another fix.

The end caps are another story and I find plastic weld (WalMart or AutoZone) will adhere and seal the crack, but the plastic is brittle and I think I will see other cracks in time. I drilled holes into the crack and inserted #6 screws so the nut on the end was behind the cap and a wing nut with washer was on top of the cap so I could hold the edges of the crack together until the plastic weld set. Once the plastic weld is set and dry, I unscrew the machine screw and leave the nut behind. The hole can then be filled with plastic weld. Just a thought. Still too early to say it fixes the problem.
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Old 02-17-2009, 05:23 PM   #4
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Stone Mountain , Georgia
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Shower Stall Question Follow-up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Argonaut20 View Post
This is just a guess, but I believe the panels on the sides of the Minuet shower are ABS panels that can be replaced. The use of plastic weld on them was not successful for me as the panel was cracked throughout its length, from back window to bulkhead. As a temporary fix, I put a silicone with high adhesive properties on the crack and tried to work it into the crack hoping the flexible nature of the silicone would keep it sealed until I am through traveling this Spring. This summer I hope to try to replace the panel or find another fix.

The end caps are another story and I find plastic weld (WalMart or AutoZone) will adhere and seal the crack, but the plastic is brittle and I think I will see other cracks in time. I drilled holes into the crack and inserted #6 screws so the nut on the end was behind the cap and a wing nut with washer was on top of the cap so I could hold the edges of the crack together until the plastic weld set. Once the plastic weld is set and dry, I unscrew the machine screw and leave the nut behind. The hole can then be filled with plastic weld. Just a thought. Still too early to say it fixes the problem.
Because this was posted so long ago, I am assuming that you have worked on your shower stall/pan, wall area by now? What did you do and has it worked? We've got what sounds like similar cracks and I don't want to tear it apart yet since we just got it, but maybe next winter would be a good time.
Anyone else, please feel free to chime in!
Thanks,
Beth
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Old 02-18-2009, 05:55 PM   #5
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I got sidetracked and haven't gotten back to the shower at this time. It is ABS plastic and available in sheets from several suppliers. I found that the shower walls were two thicknesses ????? with the inner one relatively solid. To repair is going to necessitate tearing the entire shower area apart, using the old pieces as patterns, and cutting the ABS sheets to fit. Then the fun part of reassembly starts. As a temp fix (that seems to be working), I used rivets to stabilize the edges of the crack that ran around the wall of the shower, then used bath and tile caulk to seal the crack. Silicone doesn't work as you probably know.
As for the end caps, the cracks I repaired with plastic weld seem to be holding. There are several reasons for this (I think). First, I removed a cobbled on drain arrangement for the sewer. A previous owner didn't like the factory arrangement that had the outlet up under the trailer. S/he put a drain outlet on that extended under the frame streetside with a metal protector to keep the inevitable dragging from destroying the sewer outlet. The dragging tended to try to wrack the frame which then stressed the internal plastic causing the cracks. A least I think it was a partial cause. A new axle that raised the trailer also contributes to a smoother ride.
Second, I tried to be sure the plastic weld set properly when I applied it. I let it set up for a day or so before pulling the screws out. I have read of folks taking the caps loose and applying a fiberglas backing to REALLY repair the caps and their cracks. I'll see how I feel about doing that when I get through with the dozen or so projects that have popped up.
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