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Old 07-06-2012, 11:10 PM   #15
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The Univolt is really not a switching device. It's actually not much more than an unregulated 12 volt power supply. The modern multi stage converters are far superior to the Univolt.
Most trailers are equipped with two systems. A 120 volt AC system and a separate 12 volt DC system. The only thing they have in common is the converter for the 12 volt system is powered by the 120 volt system. Without shore power the converter will not provide the 12 volts to keep the battery (if installed) charged.
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:46 AM   #16
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Thanks TG. I guess a 38 year old power supply has more than done its duty, a replacement is definitely in the works.
How many amps do we need?
I'm guessing it's electrically noisy besides the audible noise.

Some friends lost their house when their trailer (park next to it) when up in smoke, due to a faulty uninvolved type device...
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Old 07-07-2012, 01:58 PM   #17
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I installed a Progressive Dynamics 9245 two years ago and it works great. 45 amps is plenty for your rig. Be sure to upgrade the fuse panel as well. The new fuse panels use the automotive standard spade type fuses. Big improvement over the old glass type.
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:54 PM   #18
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I can get the PD9245 plus the DC panel on Amazon at a pretty good price. Should I have a Equalizer hitch? I'm working on one of those as well.
The striker plate on the rear door is worn and since it is riveted on, like everything else, replacing it is ?
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:28 PM   #19
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Since we discovered PetScreen (courtesy of our siamese), we wanted to re-screen the trailer with it. Then I took a long look at the screen door. Rivets.
So, do I have to drill out and replace those rivets to dismount the door, re-screen and then re-mount? and are the window frames removable for the same purpose?
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:44 PM   #20
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You can most likely re screen the door in place. That would probably be much easier than removing the rivets and taking the door off. It is not that easy to re align the door once removed.

The interior window trim will be held on with screws and once you take the lift knobs off the window struts, you will be able to take the screen holding trim off to re screen them on the bench.
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:08 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savage68 View Post
Since we discovered PetScreen (courtesy of our siamese), we wanted to re-screen the trailer with it. Then I took a long look at the screen door. Rivets.
So, do I have to drill out and replace those rivets to dismount the door, re-screen and then re-mount? and are the window frames removable for the same purpose?
I had never heard of PetScreen until reading this. I went to their website to investigate. I have to think they've never met my dog... unless the stuff is welded in, she'd just go right through, pulling it loose from the frame if the screening was strong enough to hold together. I won't even think about whether the screen door latch would slow her down if the PetScreen stuff somehow held...
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:17 PM   #22
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I was questioning the claims re: dogs vs petscreen, but since we just have siamese and they only have trailer access while at basecamp; however the existing screens are 38 years old and very fragile, so replacement is required (somehow)...
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:44 PM   #23
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I have a 9245 on order, should be here soon.
I also posted an image of a WD hitch which I think is a Reese, I found it on Craigslist for $100.
Will that work with my 98 Tahoe & my 22ft argosy rear door?
Thanks to all that have contributed.
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Old 07-26-2012, 02:24 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
I installed a Progressive Dynamics 9245 two years ago and it works great. 45 amps is plenty for your rig. Be sure to upgrade the fuse panel as well. The new fuse panels use the automotive standard spade type fuses. Big improvement over the old glass type.
Well, the old is out (see image section) and after a short trip to acquire a new fuse block and some cleanup, we'll be ready to mount the new unit.
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Old 07-26-2012, 05:59 PM   #25
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I have a 9245 on order, should be here soon.
I also posted an image of a WD hitch which I think is a Reese, I found it on Craigslist for $100.
Will that work with my 98 Tahoe & my 22ft argosy rear door?
Thanks to all that have contributed.
I didn't see any response to this. I think you need to post more info on what Reese WD hitch, the weight ratings, and post in the hitch section. You will get lots of help. My choice is an Equal-i-zer, but you will get thousands of variations on this question.
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:01 PM   #26
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I didn't see any response to this. I think you need to post more info on what Reese WD hitch, the weight ratings, and post in the hitch section. You will get lots of help. My choice is an Equal-i-zer, but you will get thousands of variations on this question.


Thanks for noticing. That is now an old issue. There were two WD hitches on Craigslist, one a equalizer which was too light for my rig and another, reese I think, that was too big. It was a time sensitive question.

I'm thinking seriously of an Andesen at this point...
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Old 07-30-2012, 11:31 PM   #27
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1974 Airstream Owners SERVICE Manual on CD

Just saw this. Don't know anything about it.

Looks good to me. Has an instant download option.

Airstream Factory Service Manual on CD



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Old 07-31-2012, 06:17 AM   #28
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Hello...The screen door can redone in place. Been there done that. We have since changed out the screening and put permanent plexiglass in place and love it, can still see out with the ac running and the dogs love it. Also.. we took out window screens out and repainted the frames and rescreened them.
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