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Old 06-02-2007, 01:30 PM   #85
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sandwich style?

Gary, cost may be an issue, but would the signboard stufff that boatdoc used on this Argy work? I believe it is metal sandwiching wood?
Marc
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Old 06-02-2007, 02:06 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janet's Husband
I just measured it and the thickest plywood I could use is 17/32". I was hoping to go a little thicker to get the floor stiffer.
Hi Gary -- When I replied earlier I ran downstairs to take a look at the stamp on my plywood stock. I've only replaced the front section of floor though I also have to do under the bathroom. I did have to replace a floor section under my battery but haven't had to deal with inserting floor in this type of channel. Trying to go stiffer than the 1/2" ply I settled on 19/32" CDX underlayment (more complete inner veneers than other building grade plywoods, though not perfect!). Marine ply is supposed to have the most complete veneers but I couldn't get my hands on any.

I haven't done the following but I've been thinking. (Danger!) The bottom veneer in any panel will be vital to maintaining the stiffness against deflection under load; the top veneer is in compression only. If you want floor stock that's more than 1/2", here is a straightforward solution that's better than attacking plywood with a belt sander to make it fit. And it doesn't need to be fitted over every frame member because the underside stays flat!
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Tack a temporary fence parallel to the floor edge so that a router could hog out the extra few 32nds of an inch. Start from the outside edge, moving progressively toward the fence for the amount that has to go into the channel. Your front and back C-channel can't sit at a different level, so rip a thin stringer that be used as a fence to follow that curve to let you inlay the C-channel into this slight reduction. Try it on a piece of scrap first to fit into the channel as you set your router bit depth. This slight extra floor height might need some thinking through how it will affect the door entry and putting the same partitions back in. I'd seal the edges plenty good with Rot Doctor, though that's a whole different topic. Plenty to think through alright!
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Old 06-02-2007, 02:31 PM   #87
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Notice on the old ply at the curved ends. On my '74 there wasn't a screw hole through every hole in the C-channel -- the empty holes had a corresponding ramping of the floor top edge with a rat tail file as if they intended these to drain water in the C-channel outward and discharge along the inside of the banana wrap.
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Old 06-02-2007, 05:41 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream
Notice on the old ply at the curved ends. On my '74 there wasn't a screw hole through every hole in the C-channel -- the empty holes had a corresponding ramping of the floor top edge with a rat tail file as if they intended these to drain water in the C-channel outward and discharge along the inside of the banana wrap.
That makes sense, any water caught in the C-channel would drain out. I wondered what the of the extra holes in the channels were for. I'll file the ply, then do the edge treatment. I think your previous post will work, the only thing I can figure would be different would be the C-channel would ride up on the uncut portion of the plywood. This would cause a slight shift in the holes for the extrusion, which I think would be a good thing. Fresh holes for the pop rivits.
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Old 06-02-2007, 05:44 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy
Gary, cost may be an issue, but would the signboard stufff that boatdoc used on this Argy work? I believe it is metal sandwiching wood?
Marc
I looked into that stuff and I think it is beyond my Peter Principle and price range. Good thought though, keep em coming.
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Old 06-02-2007, 05:51 PM   #90
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Polyethylene vs. ABS Tanks

I need some new tanks for the project, fresh,grey and black. I was wondering if ABS tanks have improved in the recent past or are they still prone to cracking. ABS is lots cheaper than polyethylene, but not if you have to repair and replace them.
I'm looking for input on this subject. I'll be ordering them in the next few weeks and I need to hear from you all on this subject.
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Old 06-03-2007, 07:48 PM   #91
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I bought polyethylene for the black water replacement I needed. Frankly, I wanted (and got) strength. I have no wish to try ABS for the tanks.
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Old 06-05-2007, 10:21 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janet's Husband
I need some new tanks for the project, fresh,grey and black. I was wondering if ABS tanks have improved in the recent past or are they still prone to cracking. ABS is lots cheaper than polyethylene, but not if you have to repair and replace them.
I'm looking for input on this subject. I'll be ordering them in the next few weeks and I need to hear from you all on this subject.
If the tanks are exposed at all I'd avoid ABS. While picking up my gray ABS tank (an inside under counter tank) there were three tanks in the shipment to the parts store. Mine was the only one that did not need repair before the RV parts guy could sell them. Scary.

Barry
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:01 PM   #93
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Garys been busy! The shell and frame are seperated. The floor leaves something to be desired....
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:12 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janet
Garys been busy! The shell and frame are seperated. The floor leaves something to be desired....
Someone once told me that they weren't doing a shell off. hmmm.....wonder who that was.......

Lookin' good ! Looks like they went with the cheap stuff when they put that floor in at the factory. Lots of knots there. (read voids)
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:15 PM   #95
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All the wood and mouse infested insulation is taken out and the rust kill is applied. No frame cracks. But... also no frame support across the front and back. This explains the spongy feel in the floor in those areas. We will add a couple of chunks of c channel in these areas.
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:18 PM   #96
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Someone once told me that they weren't doing a shell off. hmmm.....wonder who that was.......
well um.... that person is now practicing hard to be flexible....

There was not one square inch of insulation that wasn't full of mouse trails. we never would have gotten the smell out.
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:24 PM   #97
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Quote:
well um.... that person is now practicing hard to be flexible....

LOL


Quote:
There was not one square inch of insulation that wasn't full of mouse trails. we never would have gotten the smell out.[/
I hear ya. It is the reason I had to do it to mine.
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:40 PM   #98
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looks like a yard sale on that plywood... how many cordless drills and jigsaws did it take? LOL! How did the shell come off, was it supported from the outside and the floor driven out?

I helped move a 64 Safari and 70's 24ft Argosy today. What a difference in weight. Maybe the lack of c-channel is how they saved some weight... and money? I loved looking at that 60's trailer in my rear view mirror...... must resist!

All that insulation is really gross. Makes me cringe about mine. Yuk!
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