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Old 05-07-2018, 07:16 PM   #15
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1976 Argosy 28
Terrell , North Carolina
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I wish mine didn't have any rust....or better yet were fiberglass.
My brother came in town from IL and we got the shell lifted off, went pretty well may have braced it a little better, but it worked. (Thanks Bruce)

The only reason I want to remove the Vulkem is there is some mildew on it and I just want to make sure the Seams are sealed good. I'm doing this once and don't want a...wish I would have...although I'm sure there will be quite a few of those

FYI...watch out for the hidden rivets, mine were on the 4 corners buried in the vulkem where the ribs meet the flooring U channel. Other than those 4 we got em all!
Next step, remove the rest of the belly pan and plywood flooring. Get the Chassis media blasted welded up and then POR-15.
Has anyone used this plywood before?
https://www.pontoonstuff.com/products/3-4-marine-grade-plywood[/URL]
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Old 05-07-2018, 07:59 PM   #16
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Hey, your at the end of the disassembly process. Now the renovations can begin, like blasting and painting the frame.

I can't advise on the subfloor material. Folks sing the praises of the Coosa board, but likewise cuss the cost. For me, I would just use exterior grade plywood and seal it with a couple of coats of polyurethane. I think it would last 40 years if a guy pays attention to rain water leaks, and that is longer than I will last. It is certainly a better material than the OSB chipboard in our 86 Limited. The plywood subfloor in my 75 Overlander is still going. A foot of the rear end was mush, but the rest of it ain't too bad. That's 43 years of life so far.

David
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:55 PM   #17
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I'll put in a word for Coosa Board.

Since you are already this deep into it, replacing the plywood with a waterproof composite material like Coosa Board that is lighter than plywood but just as strong and easy to work with might seem worth the couple extra hundred bucks just for the satisfaction of knowing that it will never rot, never get soft, never suffer from insect infestation, and all this hard work you are doing will never ever have to be done again when water inevitably gets to the floor whether by leaks, condensation, hidden cracks, left-open vents/windows/doors, failed seals, defrosting fridge, plumbing issues, spills, etc.

Perhaps 10x the price, yes, but calculate the value and the savings from the 30% weight reduction, plus the cost and labor of replacing sections of floor later on (under the shower, around the toilet, door, wheel wells) and see if the numbers make sense for you.
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Old 05-08-2018, 06:59 PM   #18
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That's a strong testimonial for why Coosa. It's good stuff. David
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Old 05-19-2018, 04:38 PM   #19
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1976 Argosy 28
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I looked at the Coosa board and its about 3x the cost of marine plywood, so will probably stick with the plywood...I'll probably be long gone by the time it rots out this time.
So today I got all the decking and most of the belly pan off the good news is most of the frame looks pretty good, bad news is it is separated on the non-curb side

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Frame separation
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It looks like the front flooring had been replaced at some point and the seams were not lined up on the frame so that's why some of the floor was sagging.
I was surprised that the grey covered the entire area between the wheels over top of the axles...not sure if that was factory...thoughts.
By best friends on this part have been my angle grinder, oscillating tool and well as my impact driver.
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Grey tank

Sunday will try to get the tanks out and remaining belly pan.
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Old 05-19-2018, 06:30 PM   #20
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Bare bones. It exposes the ravages of years in a wet environment. You will need to inspect that frame and repair all the cracks and replace the rusted out parts. It's straightforward welding and fabrication work. Mobile welders can come to your shop and do the work. It isn't cheap. My welder charged $85 an hour. He was done with my project in 4 hours.

David
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:44 PM   #21
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1975 Argosy 26
1979 30' Argosy
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Hmmm, so would you have seen the frame separation if you had not removed the subfloor?
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Old 05-22-2018, 07:32 PM   #22
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No mine was visible from the side once the belly pan was off.

Here she is all naked....
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Frame stripped and ready to get it media blasted and welded back together.

Ok, looking for input, I'm thinking of adding the brackets to raise the frame and put 16" wheels and tires on. I've seen people do it on other airstreams, but not an argosy. My thinking is to give me more bottom clearance to enlarge the Grey tank and maybe the black one too. Instead of having the waste valve exit the frame I would lower it and put it right below.
If anyone has done the 16" wheels and lift bracket please share your thoughts.
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Old 05-22-2018, 08:28 PM   #23
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Argosy and airstreams are exactly the same. The lift would be no different. I plan on doing a 3 inch lift on mine also with 32 degree down angle on the axles. My tanks sit inside the frame rails. The waste valve is below the rails.
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Old 05-22-2018, 08:58 PM   #24
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Ok, maybe thereís more than one way to skin an Argosy, but I think Iíve read elsewhere to leave the U channel attached to the outer skins Vs the subfloor (as in post #15).

Does it make a difference?
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Old 05-22-2018, 09:00 PM   #25
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Nope none at all.
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Old 09-24-2018, 06:29 PM   #26
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1976 Argosy 28
Terrell , North Carolina
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Starting to get back to work on Gussy.

The welder is almost done with the frame repairs and I was wondering if anyone have the outrigger position dimensions for a 28' center bath?

The main ones I want to make sure are correct are the wheel well and the step dimensions.
All dimensions are center to center of outrigger:
Wheel Wells 86.5" apart
Steps 24" apart

Starting at the front main channel end and measuring down to the middle of the outriggers.
10",34",58"(step),82"(step),106",123.5"(wheelwell) ,190"(wheelwell),210",
238.5",250"

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 09-25-2018, 09:21 PM   #27
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1974 Argosy 28
Concord , NC
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I was going to offer to help but after looking at my measurements your center bath and my 28' 1974 twin appear to be quite a bit different. I will double check my dimensions tomorrow to make sure I didn't do anything stupid. I also live relatively close to you in Concord in the event a physical double check would be of benefit to you.

Oh, and hopefully this will still prove helpful but I have found that Citristrip will soften the Vulkem significantly and make it quite easy to scrape off. Use it generously and cover with cling wrap for a few hours and it helps a ton.

RV

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Originally Posted by dhbinkley View Post
Starting to get back to work on Gussy.

The welder is almost done with the frame repairs and I was wondering if anyone have the outrigger position dimensions for a 28' center bath?

The main ones I want to make sure are correct are the wheel well and the step dimensions.
All dimensions are center to center of outrigger:
Wheel Wells 86.5" apart
Steps 24" apart

Starting at the front main channel end and measuring down to the middle of the outriggers.
10",34",58"(step),82"(step),106",123.5"(wheelwell) ,190"(wheelwell),210",
238.5",250"

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:39 PM   #28
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1976 Argosy 28
Terrell , North Carolina
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Thanks Racer Vol for the tip using citristrip on the vulkem!

As I was lining up the rear JC channel it didn't make sense to me why there are no outriggers closer to the rear to support the floor?
So my thought would be to move the last outrigger closer to the back to give more support. In my picture I would move the last outriggers to be inline with the last support that goes perpendicular to the main frame rails...
any thoughts of why not to do this?

[IMG]20181115_172629.jpg[/IMG]

Hoping to be done with the frame by the end of the month...cross your fingers!
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